|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Jan 17th, 2008 8:24 am|
swing arm removal
Sorry, that should read AJS, not Matt
|Jan 17th, 2008 8:21 am|
swing arm removel
Follow Kevin Cooks procedure to the letter, it is absolutely spot on, i used it recently, & take your time.
|Jan 17th, 2008 7:57 am|
|Matt||In addition to the other good pointers I would double check the torque of all the nuts after a bit of a ride once it's all back together. I found a couple that were very much out of spec after sensing a very slight vibration on the ride home.|
|Jan 17th, 2008 5:29 am|
Same Issue with Me
Originally Posted by ajs
|Jan 16th, 2008 4:02 pm|
I went through the Slave replacement in September. Took about 7 or 8 hours. Spent some time on the computer when I found liquid on my rod on the clutch side of the felt seal.
The procedure is awesome. Pretty much step-by-step and with some patience you'll prevail.
The only problem I had was in the end I decided to flush the clutch fluid and stripped where you connect the bleeder. By the way, you'll need your own bleeder.
I used the Slave as the excuse to by a El-cheapo Harbor Freight lift and I must say, you'll want access to a lift if at all possible.
Be patient, don't sweat it and you'll be fine.
|Jan 16th, 2008 3:55 pm|
|ajs||Thanks for the quick responses. They have confirmed where my head is on this. As an added note, I have already printed off a copy of your detailed 23 page procedure, Kevin. Very good to say the least. It is that and the modified 30mm socket from David Shealey that has given me the courage to get into this. But.. as I said earlier, stay tuned for more questions.|
|Jan 16th, 2008 2:23 pm|
That threw me as well and I can tell you that all the bolts are 'normal' and turn anti clockwise to come out. They are steel nuts in an aluminium thread and they are often very solid. A proper breaker bar is best, a nice big extension even better and someone to keep the socket pressed on is good.
Have fun and good luck from near old Glasgow
|Jan 16th, 2008 2:20 pm|
All of the threads are right-handed threads. The "left" and "right" are referring to which side of the bike. If you haven't seen the procedure I wrote up a while ago it might be helpful to you. There is a link to the procedure in my signature.
Good Luck and let us know if you have any questions.
|Jan 16th, 2008 1:32 pm|
Swing arm removal question
I am about to do the slave cylinder housing drain hole procedure. As I make preparation and read what I can find on this site and the Clymer manual I have a question regards the removal of the swing arm. I am sure there will be other questions as I progress, but for now, the swing arm.
I take the references to the left and right threaded ring are referencing the left and right side of the swing arm as it mounts to the bike. There is a slight question in my mind as to wether one refers to a left thread as opposed to a right thread. Given as there is a high torque value here and the effort needed to release these rings, I would not want to be trying to loosen one only to find out I am turning it the wrong way. Do they both loosen by turning left or counter clockwise? Any advise is appreciated.... And stay tuned for more.. as I am sure this is not the last.