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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Oct 22nd, 2019 7:55 pm
LTnAZ
Re: Main seal

Congratulations!
Oct 18th, 2019 12:17 pm
Troy F Well I finally got her back together and have road her to work the last 2 days. I wanted to make sure everything was good before I posted.
Thanks to Kirk's videos and this forum she is back up running. I forgot how much fun she is to ride.. Thanks again!
Oct 5th, 2019 11:45 pm
jzeiler
Re: Main seal

You can replace that part with a finishing nail head or you can buy aftermarket switches that will work in the holder.

Manuf: SAIA BURGESS USA
Part #: V4NS-UL
Link

Don't let the pictures fool you these are the exact same part. You'll need to fashion two pins to replicate the mounting of the tandem switches and get them to seat into the metal housing - I cut a piece of a LARGE metal spring paper-clip and glued them in.

These are "form-C" contacts, so one wire is unused. Also: the wires are not bundled - some heat shrink tubing takes quick care of it. The wires are a good 18" long - long enough to route them per the original cable bundle and make your splice near the driver's powerlet socket (the OEM plug is near there).
Oct 5th, 2019 8:48 am
Troy F Wont be able to tell if the 2 nubs are attached till you open it up. It almost looks like you could solder a contact point back where nub broke off?
Oct 5th, 2019 7:42 am
sailor
Re: Main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy F View Post
Jzeiler you are correct, I broke one off installing it. I'll find out tomorrow what Bring More Wallet wants for this.... I never would of figured that out, thank you, this thread is awesome.
If you intend to buy new, the switch assy with wires (BMW part no: 61 31 2 305 979) is quite expensive at $US 166. Same switch for all years of the K1200LT

HOWEVER, you can find these quite cheap on EBAY from parted K1200LT. Even if you need to buy 2 to get a good used one it will still be much cheaper than $166. You may have to be patient to find these separate as many parts breaker will leave in on transmission (they sell transmission with backup mechanism attached).

Within 5 minutes, I found one on EBAY (USA):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/01-BMW-K-12...8AAOSwJXNcWW2A
Oct 5th, 2019 1:27 am
Troy F Jzeiler you are correct, I broke one off installing it. I'll find out tomorrow what Bring More Wallet wants for this.... I never would of figured that out, thank you, this thread is awesome.
Oct 1st, 2019 12:16 pm
Troy F I did remove the FR switch first time I tore it down this last time I didn't. And I never tried starting it first time. I hot starter wired right I'm pretty sure.
Oct 1st, 2019 11:20 am
jzeiler
Re: Main seal

I'll ask a few questions, did you remove the FR switch from the transmission reverse rod? If you did sometimes the actuation bumps on the micro switches break off if you are not careful. One of them routes the starter button signal to the reverser controller when in R and returns it to the starter relay when in F.

Did you get ALL the lines attached to the battery +?

Did you get the starter motor wired back up correctly? You can use a large wire and go from the battery + to the starter tie point and if the starter turns that part is OK.
Sep 30th, 2019 11:59 pm
Troy F So I got her back together, also did the spiegler brake lines and new throttle cables cause the out was frayed at the throttle body.
Anyway she wont turn over, turn key on it goes through the cycles, push the start button and nothing, no clicking, nothing.
The battery showing 12volts, side stand is up and switch is in middle position. I have 1 wire that isn't plugged into anything and I dont think it was when I tore it down first time but it's been 16months. I suck at dissecting the wiring diagrams in my clymer. I dont think this wire has anything to do with starter not engaging but I could be wrong. The wire comes from back with the 1 above it which I think is antenna...
Aug 11th, 2019 5:00 am
Beemerboy2002
Re: Main seal

It's a blessing that you had to go back in. Now you can install the Viton O ring. This is the main source of the oil slinging around in the clutch housing contaminating the friction material. The BMW original O ring hardens, then cracks. Your initial warning is an oil leak from anywhere around the oil pan. That's because the oil is being slung 360 degrees inside the clutch housing. Then the clutch slippage leaves you no choice but to go in! And yes, I have wanted to roll mine off of a cliff several times!

Bruce
Aug 10th, 2019 10:47 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: Main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy F View Post
I hope this will work it seems flush to me!
That does look better. Go gently with the clutch housing till it is fully in and you should be fine.
Aug 10th, 2019 6:39 pm
Troy F I hope this will work it seems flush to me!
Aug 10th, 2019 1:52 pm
Troy F I didn't think so cause watching Kirk's video he doesn't say that, well here we go again!
Aug 10th, 2019 1:41 pm
jzeiler
Re: Main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy F View Post
The service guy at local BMW said I should cut up a coke can and wrap the housing. Then when you install it you pull the tin out which will pull the lip out. To me it looks like lip should be in not away from engine. Any thoughts?

NO NO NO do not use a tin can, just get the new seal flush with the engine housing and install the clutch housing DRY for the main seal and lightly oil the splines for the o-ring. The lip goes toward the engine, he confused it with the front crank seal which DOES face out. Don't forget the plastic spacer.
Aug 10th, 2019 12:59 pm
Troy F New seal
Aug 10th, 2019 12:58 pm
Troy F So I got new seal today and it slides over clutch housing just fine. The service guy at local BMW said I should cut up a coke can and wrap the housing. Then when you install it you pull the tin out which will pull the lip out. To me it looks like lip should be in not away from engine. Any thoughts?
Jul 11th, 2019 1:32 am
beech
Re: Main seal

You have a viton oring coming I see, I also have a bag of them I send out for free. But along with that. I have Tools listed in Clymers and that includes a main seal driver that inserts it to factory depth. If you want the Kit, I'll send it tomorrow via USPS priority mail and you can send it back later with 17$ in it that covers my mailing it to you. beech
<snipesb(at)cnw.com>
The part that sucks besides the seal you now need all those parts that are one time use. Flywheel bolts, Main shaft nut come to mind.
Jul 10th, 2019 8:57 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: Main seal

Viton O-ring on its way. Well deserved for having to go in twice.
Jul 10th, 2019 6:12 pm
jzeiler
Re: Main seal

Gordon is correct though the original seal in the photo is driven too deep and that likely caused it to hit the bearing. I use a pipe flange larger than the seal to drive it flush.
Jul 10th, 2019 11:31 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: Main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy F View Post
I'll try it again as soon as I get a new seal and I want to order one of those better orings. And this time I'm definitely putting oil back in the engine before I put clutch and everything back on too see if it leaks.
Thanks I appreciate all the information cause I'm eventually going to get this baby running again. It's become challenge that I will not give in and take it some where to get fixed its personal now..My wife and daughters think I'll never get her running again...ha I got this
Where do you live? If you are in the US, send me a PM with your address and I will send you one of those Viton O-rings no charge. You have 19 posts so you should be able to send a PM now.
Jul 10th, 2019 11:27 am
Troy F I'll try it again as soon as I get a new seal and I want to order one of those better orings. And this time I'm definitely putting oil back in the engine before I put clutch and everything back on too see if it leaks.
Thanks I appreciate all the information cause I'm eventually going to get this baby running again. It's become challenge that I will not give in and take it some where to get fixed its personal now..My wife and daughters think I'll never get her running again...ha I got this
Jul 10th, 2019 10:16 am
Voyager
Re: Main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
You have to be careful when sliding the clutch housing into the seal. It also looks like the new seal you installed may be set a little too deep? Is it flush with the housing or is it recessed some? The proper tool will not allow it to be driven past the housing surface. My feeling is that the clutch housing caught the seal lip when being inserted and tore the seal apart. When you get the new seal, make sure it slides over the clutch housing with both off the bike. Leave it on the housing until you are ready to install it. Drive the seal only till it is flush with the engine housing and then work the clutch housing in.

The old style seals were flat and had to be pre-molded by hand to curve the lip before installing or they would tear apart. The new pre-molded lip seals are supposed to not require any pre-molding but making sure it fits over the clutch housing will also help to keep it from shredding on install. Yours is the first of the new seals I have heard of having this issue.
And to add to Gordon’s recommendation, the teflon seals are to be installed dry. This seems odd as very other seal known to man should be oiled before sliding over the shaft, but my understanding is that the teflon seals work by transferring a thin layer off teflon from the seal to the shaft during the initial operation before the oil gets to it. If you oil the shaft or seal during installation, this prevents the teflon transfer and shortens the life of the seal.
Jul 10th, 2019 9:19 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: Main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy F View Post
Well I finally got her torn down again and this is what I found on new seal I replaced. I have no idea how the seal got damaged this bad on installing it but now I know why it was leaking. Ugh
You have to be careful when sliding the clutch housing into the seal. It also looks like the new seal you installed may be set a little too deep? Is it flush with the housing or is it recessed some? The proper tool will not allow it to be driven past the housing surface. My feeling is that the clutch housing caught the seal lip when being inserted and tore the seal apart. When you get the new seal, make sure it slides over the clutch housing with both off the bike. Leave it on the housing until you are ready to install it. Drive the seal only till it is flush with the engine housing and then work the clutch housing in.

The old style seals were flat and had to be pre-molded by hand to curve the lip before installing or they would tear apart. The new pre-molded lip seals are supposed to not require any pre-molding but making sure it fits over the clutch housing will also help to keep it from shredding on install. Yours is the first of the new seals I have heard of having this issue.
Jul 10th, 2019 12:04 am
Troy F Well I finally got her torn down again and this is what I found on new seal I replaced. I have no idea how the seal got damaged this bad on installing it but now I know why it was leaking. Ugh
Mar 22nd, 2019 9:57 pm
Wazza
Re: Main seal

There is one thing that many people forget to look at when doing seal replacements and that is the condition of the surface that a seal runs on. Quite often the seal will wear a groove in the shaft that it runs on thereby making the new seal far less effective than it should be. If you ever find this when you inspect the shaft you will probably think that the shaft will need to be replaced as well. Ideally yes that is true but there is a product called Speedy Sleave which is a very thin tube of metal that is fitted over the area where the wear on the shaft is. The seal of course is then a tighter fit but is a very effective and cheap way of fixing that leak. I have used this product many times over the years on various types of machinery gearboxes that I work on.
I highly recommend that if you need to go back in there to check the seal surface of the shaft itself.
Mar 22nd, 2019 8:39 pm
Troy F I appreciate the comments, I got seal from BMW here in KC. I think seal was tapered, I will finish putting it together so I can start it and see if leak stops. I never thought of that but not very optimistic at this point. Start back to work tomorrow and had to replace daughter's transmission seal today so not sure when I'll get her running.
Mar 22nd, 2019 7:35 pm
jzeiler
Re: Main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy F View Post
No I got my Oring from Bmw I didn't know about the Viton till after I did it. I did lubricate seal before installing though.
The stock o-ring is OK it will just get hard sooner and leak. The outer surface of the rear main should be oiled lightly as it is rubber but the inner lip is teflon and should be dry when you insert the clutch housing. Hope it does stop seeping for you.
Mar 22nd, 2019 4:26 pm
Voyager
Re: Main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy F View Post
No I got my Oring from Bmw I didn't know about the Viton till after I did it. I did lubricate seal before installing though.
If you lubed the lip of the main seal, that may be why you have seepage. Maybe it will run in as John said. Worth a try before tearing it down again.
Mar 22nd, 2019 3:47 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: Main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy F View Post
No I got my Oring from Bmw I didn't know about the Viton till after I did it. I did lubricate seal before installing though.
Where did you get your rear main seal from? No profile information letting us know where you are. Which picture did it look like? Want to make sure you got a pre-formed seal and not the old non formed ones.
Mar 22nd, 2019 3:07 pm
Troy F No I got my Oring from Bmw I didn't know about the Viton till after I did it. I did lubricate seal before installing though.
Mar 22nd, 2019 10:57 am
Voyager
Re: Main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy F View Post
Last May I started on changing the main seal on my 2006 LT. I work a lot so don't get much time to work on it but I took this week off to finish it.
I got it all back together and put fresh engine oil Wednesday, I was waiting for my new oxygen sensor to come in and it arrived yesterday.
I was installing it late last night and noticed oil dripping from clutch housing. I guess I messed something up, must not of got main seal in properly..ugh so disappointed I'm ready to push my LT off a cliff. ...
I think most of us who work on our LTs have had at least one “cliff” moment. I have had several. John makes a good point about the main seal being installed dry. That is the advice with most teflon seal as they seal best when a thin layer of teflon can be transferred from the seal to the dry shaft at first start. If installed with an oiled lip, they are known to seep for a long time and sometimes forever. Sort of like getting a newly rebuilt engine too hot and glazing the bore.

I would think the more likely source of the leak might be the o-ring. Did you install a new one and install it per the service manual? Most of us have used an aftermarket o-ring made of viton.
Mar 22nd, 2019 10:35 am
jzeiler
Re: Main seal

You did replace the 19x4 o-ring as well on the output shaft I hope. As long as that mail seal was flush with the rear face it should have been OK. I certainly understand your frustration. That seal is driven in wet but the internal lip is dry. If it was installed wet it may seep awhile before it seals up good. You will need to run the engine to be sure. Worth a shot.
Mar 22nd, 2019 9:32 am
Troy F
Main seal

Last May I started on changing the main seal on my 2006 LT. I work a lot so don't get much time to work on it but I took this week off to finish it.
I got it all back together and put fresh engine oil Wednesday, I was waiting for my new oxygen sensor to come in and it arrived yesterday.
I was installing it late last night and noticed oil dripping from clutch housing. I guess I messed something up, must not of got main seal in properly..ugh so disappointed I'm ready to push my LT off a cliff. ...

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