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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Jun 22nd, 2019 4:18 pm
jzeiler
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Unfortunately pin 21 is vacant and has no wire hooked to it. And you need this to reset with this procedure.
Jun 21st, 2019 8:56 pm
jenkinskg
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Thank You so much, after I sleep off night shift I will be trying this.
Do we know where the abs pin goes on the other side of harness?
My abs controller plug is a bear to take off and on.
Would rather mess with other end, prob ecu isn't it?
Can I just tap into harness, maybe put a switch?

I will let you know code results and see where I end up
Jun 17th, 2019 8:21 am
jzeiler
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Everything you need to read and clear was in that linked post I gave you. Albeit you do have to get into the connector to do it it works.
Jun 16th, 2019 8:06 pm
Voyager
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jenkinskg View Post
Curious if an obd2 plug and good scanner can reset.my abs?

I have the plug on order

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I don’t think the LT is OBD2 conformant. I think it uses a proprietary interface and thus you need a GS911 or the BMW MoDiTec.
Jun 16th, 2019 5:40 pm
jenkinskg
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Curious if an obd2 plug and good scanner can reset.my abs?

I have the plug on order

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Jun 13th, 2019 7:58 am
jzeiler
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Since you have a 2000 your is the ABS II which needs to be reset. Low battery can cause a fault as well as several other things have read HERE for more info.
Jun 12th, 2019 10:21 pm
jenkinskg
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Ok motor in and running, put tupperware on the other day.
Abs wag is not stopping, i have not taken any long runs or done comp test.
What could have.made abs error?
No brake lines opened at all, brake light ok batt ok, seeing signal with meter from rear abs sensor, any easy way to test front sensor?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Nov 29th, 2018 12:55 pm
jenkinskg Think oil pump died, still finishing motor swap
May 27th, 2018 12:27 am
jenkinskg
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Sealed it up , new oil and filter, no pieces anywhere inside.
Started up easy as usual.
Ran nice.
Did not do full highway run yet but seems to be ok.
I may order big end bolts to retorque with stretch.
I will open it in a few hundred miles, if there is no play increase, I should be ok.

I was able to rev it up and no weird sounds!!!
May 26th, 2018 9:28 am
jzeiler
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Good you may be OK.

Best way to tell is take it into the rev limiter several times, if she doesn't blow apart you are OK!
May 25th, 2018 10:18 pm
jenkinskg
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Thanks for the advice, no discoloration.
My son did take it out and did not add oil after I said it was a little low.

I did not use new rode bolts.
I will check after some miles.

The crank was pretty clean, marks but nothing you could feel.
May 25th, 2018 4:53 pm
jzeiler
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

I would like to see a picture of the crank journal. # 1 is the first one to get starved for oil if it runs low, so I suspect the level got a bit too low. Also is the rod a black or brown color. If black that is a sign of overheating due to oil loss. I have seen that in two of the dead engines I have removed from LTs.

Here are a few shots of one of the cranks.

#4 looks really good, #1 is shot and the next shot shows the black color from overheat (on 1,2 & 3) compared to the normal brown. Hopefully yours was no where near this.

And you did use new bolts on the rod ends as they are one time stretch when torqued.
May 25th, 2018 12:53 pm
dukey33
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

When a bearing gets that torn up, the crankshaft will have some damage too. Did you inspect that too, including measuring for out-of-round?
Also, all that babbitt debris can work its way into the engine's oil gallery as well. Typically, when bearing disintegration leaves chunks like that behind, the engine should some apart so all the oil passages can be cleaned.

In the past I too have just replaced rod bearings in an engine that had a slight knock, but it did not have flakes of bearings in the bottom of the oil pan.
May 25th, 2018 9:14 am
jenkinskg
Re: So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jenkinskg View Post
Also found a used motor thinking the worst and got a good off season price.

Then I pulled lower end cover, last week.
All connecting rods were ok, except front cylinder #1?.
It had a noticable play in it.
First thought bearing cap failure.
I take off bolts and cap, and found no bearing at all?
Then I reached into the rod, found a very small piece of what was left of the bearing.
So I ordered bearing from amazon, $33 for one cap, not a good price.
Then I realized ordering one at a time, too expensive.
Seeing that maybe my rod or cap could be oval shaped or warn, I bought a set of used pistons with rods with caps on ebay.
So now I had put in 2 bearing caps on the #1 piston, torqued it down and ready to close back up.
Next problem is. Where did all the metal go, lesson learned, I would say dropping oil pan every other year or so would be a great idea.
A magnetic drain plug does not hep, all of this material is non ferrious metal.
See attached pictures.
So end result, the oil pan traps so much beacause of it design, I do not doubt mine has stuff in it for a few oil changes
May 25th, 2018 9:12 am
jenkinskg
So I had a knock in engine end of last season.

Also found a used motor thinking the worst and got a good off season price.

Then I pulled lower end cover, last week.
All connecting rods were ok, except front cylinder #1?.
It had a noticable play in it.
First thought bearing cap failure.
I take off bolts and cap, and found no bearing at all?
Then I reached into the rod, found a very small piece of what was left of the bearing.
So I ordered bearing from amazon, $33 for one cap, not a good price.
Then I realized ordering one at a time, too expensive.
Seeing that maybe my rod or cap could be oval shaped or warn, I bought a set of used pistons with rods with caps on ebay.
So now I had put in 2 bearing caps on the #1 piston, torqued it down and ready to close back up.
Next problem is. Where did all the metal go, lesson learned, I would say dropping oil pan every other year or so would be a great idea.
A magnetic drain plug does not hep, all of this material is non ferrious metal.
See attached pictures.

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