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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Apr 1st, 2018 2:50 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

I carry a spare jump battery in case my Odyssey dies so I will probably try and use it for another season. It has been on a 3 stage tender most of its life and now hopefully a better 5 stage tender.
Apr 1st, 2018 10:23 am
jzeiler
Re: My $500 of

I got 6 years out of my OEM battery with out ever using a tender. The first Odyssey I used a tender on and got almost 9 years (really should have changed it out last year).
Apr 1st, 2018 12:04 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
Installed the new Odyssey battery last night, realized the old one was installed in Oct of 09. Not bad getting almost 9 years out of one. Noticed the difference right away went I fired her up. No more sagging below 12 volts with the brakes held hard at idle. Took her out and scuffed in the new rear tire (#16) and bedded in the rear brakes. That is hard to do on a linked system but I did make a bit of dust on the short trip so I guess I got it. Then came home and mounted the new front tire (#9). I had 15,348 on the old front and 7,500 on the old rear, neither was into the wear bars. I just like starting out the riding season with fresh rubber.
Mine is already 5 years old as it was put in the day I rode it home from the PO. I have been wondering if I should replace it or try and get another season out of it. It still seems strong and I just got a new tender with a desufation stage so who knows, it may last like yours did but do I want to chance it?
Mar 31st, 2018 8:11 pm
jzeiler
Re: My $500 of

Installed the new Odyssey battery last night, realized the old one was installed in Oct of 09. Not bad getting almost 9 years out of one. Noticed the difference right away went I fired her up. No more sagging below 12 volts with the brakes held hard at idle. Took her out and scuffed in the new rear tire (#16) and bedded in the rear brakes. That is hard to do on a linked system but I did make a bit of dust on the short trip so I guess I got it. Then came home and mounted the new front tire (#9). I had 15,348 on the old front and 7,500 on the old rear, neither was into the wear bars. I just like starting out the riding season with fresh rubber.
Mar 31st, 2018 9:55 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazza View Post
It is a bike we are talking about here isn't it.
Absolutely! What did you think I was talking about

We don't call them SHE for nothing.

When she takes everything you've got and neither one of you complain, you know you've got a keeper.
Mar 31st, 2018 2:33 am
Wazza
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
It is always nice when you get so deep into her and she still starts with the push of a button.
It is a bike we are talking about here isn't it.
Mar 30th, 2018 7:42 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
I used that same wire on my electric lift!!! Lookin' good Gordon. Does she lift the bike?


YES! That was cool.
Mar 30th, 2018 11:36 am
WillH
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
In looking for bearings, I noticed that even in the LT, different quality bearings are used even though they are the same exact size. Hope that Timken I used doesn't come back to bite me later. No markings of origin on the box and the bearing is installed and sealed up so not able to go back and look.

Transmission input shaft bearing
23 12 2 330 176 GROOVED BALL BEARING - 20X47X14 0.24 1 $34.27

Front Wheel bearing
36 31 8 534 835 GROOVED BALL BEARING - 20X47X14 0.24 1 $23.47
Sorry, didn't mean to sound like I was 2nd guessing your selection and cause you any angst. Just posting so that others can be aware of the differences. This is the age-old question of OEM VS AFTERMARKET. Also, now that we are truly getting parts manufactured all over the world, for different markets and needs, we cannot assume that the US is the center of the universe anymore and buy products that look and work the same but are not designed for our application/market.
Mar 30th, 2018 9:41 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by WillH View Post
This is very true - even with Timken bearings. Bearings made in the Timken plant in India are typically for the Indian market where the average speed across the country is only about 35-40 MPH so the standards are not as high as a bearing made in their US plants for our roads and vehicles. Timken has plants all over the world and I would not assume that a bearing made in Romania or China or Brazil will be to the same standards and quality as one made in the good ole USA. It really depends on the market that the bearing was made for - even if it is the exact same part number. I am not saying that all bearings made in those countries are not for US markets; I am saying that you need to know what you are buying and not buy a bearing that was made for a bike used in India or China or wherever due to different demands on the bearing and standards.


Bearings are relatively inexpensive so I would make sure I got the very best and one that was made for the specific BMW model - even it it means getting it from BMW somehow.
In looking for bearings, I noticed that even in the LT, different quality bearings are used even though they are the same exact size. Hope that Timken I used doesn't come back to bite me later. No markings of origin on the box and the bearing is installed and sealed up so not able to go back and look.

Transmission input shaft bearing
23 12 2 330 176 GROOVED BALL BEARING - 20X47X14 0.24 1 $34.27

Front Wheel bearing
36 31 8 534 835 GROOVED BALL BEARING - 20X47X14 0.24 1 $23.47
Mar 30th, 2018 9:29 am
WillH
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
It depends on where they were made. If they really are OEM, then they should be good. You just never know with eBay.

http://listings.findthecompany.com/l...ompany-Limited
This is very true - even with Timken bearings. Bearings made in the Timken plant in India are typically for the Indian market where the average speed across the country is only about 35-40 MPH so the standards are not as high as a bearing made in their US plants for our roads and vehicles. Timken has plants all over the world and I would not assume that a bearing made in Romania or China or Brazil will be to the same standards and quality as one made in the good ole USA. It really depends on the market that the bearing was made for - even if it is the exact same part number. I am not saying that all bearings made in those countries are not for US markets; I am saying that you need to know what you are buying and not buy a bearing that was made for a bike used in India or China or wherever due to different demands on the bearing and standards.


Bearings are relatively inexpensive so I would make sure I got the very best and one that was made for the specific BMW model - even it it means getting it from BMW somehow.
Mar 29th, 2018 9:41 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Spring maintenance almost done. Susan will help me get her off the lift tomorrow and then I can get the front tire off and install the last sensor in it. Hope Saturday is still a good sunny day to ride cuz I plan on going out. It is always nice when you get so deep into her and she still starts with the push of a button.
Mar 27th, 2018 11:35 pm
Voyager
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddleman View Post
Ha Ha, The box came today 15"x 14"x 15" at 20 pounds with several inches of packing.
I think we need to start compiling the BMW parts quotient which equals the $/cubic inch of shipping box.
Mar 27th, 2018 7:18 pm
saddleman
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
That amount should at least get you 1 cubic foot of box.
Ha Ha, The box came today 15"x 14"x 15" at 20 pounds with several inches of packing.
Mar 27th, 2018 10:10 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
That's good news. Nothing worse than a sad radiator hose.
I do try to keep them happy and filled. Don't want them to have an empty feeling either.
Mar 26th, 2018 11:41 am
Voyager
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
Yes, they look fine. no leaking or weeping. Very happy with them so far.
That's good news. Nothing worse than a sad radiator hose.
Mar 26th, 2018 9:01 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by big C View Post
Gordon, the silicone radiator hose you went with still looking good?
Yes, they look fine. no leaking or weeping. Very happy with them so far.
Mar 26th, 2018 12:49 am
big C
Re: My $500 of

Gordon, the silicone radiator hose you went with still looking good?
Mar 25th, 2018 10:13 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Had to work 4am till 11:30am so didn't get a lot done but managed to dismount the AM26 and install the new TPMS sensor on my spare front wheel with new rubber. One more front to go on sensor installs. New buttons arrived so I fitted one and the sealer/insulator is drying on the back side. Start reassembly tomorrow night. Need to get it off the lift to get access to that last front wheel.
Mar 24th, 2018 11:10 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
I used that same wire on my electric lift!!! Lookin' good Gordon. Does she lift the bike?

I got around to installing my 2.82 rear drive today and I am glad I decided to use those new pivot pins from Ted Porter's shop. I buggered up the outer stock pivot. I have remove those a couple of dozen times and never had an issue but today for some reason I did not have the 12 mm bit fully seated in it and started to round it off. I did get it out but I'll have to order a new one to stash with my spare drive. So I have the new pivots, a 2.82 ratio drive, new EBC rotor and organic pads and a new dual compound BT 020. I need to get the new ME 880 front installed and I ready for this riding season.
I will have to wait till I get her on the ground to give it a full test. The front wheel is still locked in the chock. The button I had was a POS and also not what I thought I ordered. Turns out it was a SPDT and not a SPST so I ordered some different ones that should be here tomorrow. Lastly I have the 2 front tires to remove and install the sensors and then the windshield replacement and I am also ready for the season. Looking forward to IronHorse and also Russellville in May. New rubber set aside for that trip, BT020 and a BT023 on the front. The AM26 coming off my spare will be given to someone in need, maybe Cedric and his Instatrike. It was not good for me. I am jealous of your new rear end, wait, that didn't sound right

I do like the new pivot pins and yes, mine are also steel as you mentioned when you received yours unlike the ones Kirk installed in his video. First thing I did was put a magnet to them to be sure but it was pretty obvious they weren't anodized aluminum. Hopefully they will hold up well.
Mar 24th, 2018 7:37 pm
jzeiler
Re: My $500 of

I used that same wire on my electric lift!!! Lookin' good Gordon. Does she lift the bike?

I got around to installing my 2.82 rear drive today and I am glad I decided to use those new pivot pins from Ted Porter's shop. I buggered up the outer stock pivot. I have remove those a couple of dozen times and never had an issue but today for some reason I did not have the 12 mm bit fully seated in it and started to round it off. I did get it out but I'll have to order a new one to stash with my spare drive. So I have the new pivots, a 2.82 ratio drive, new EBC rotor and organic pads and a new dual compound BT 020. I need to get the new ME 880 front installed and I ready for this riding season.
Mar 24th, 2018 6:49 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Today I worked on installing the EHCS. It bolted up beautifully and at least cycles with no load. I didn't get the plate that bolts onto the bottom to protect the actuator so I had to make one out of some heavy gauge sheet metal. It will do for now but I may look for one in the future.
Mar 22nd, 2018 12:21 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Tranny oil changed and engine oil and filter done yesterday. Today I got the CS mounted started on the wiring for the EHCS actuator. I bought some heavy insulated 12-3 stranded wire and snaked it along the frame and down under the foot brake plate. It should be clear of any moving parts and abrasion. Added a small starter relay attached with pop rivets in a space under one of the right Tupperware panels above the shock. It is a perfect place as it has direct access to the ground tie point and an easy run to the positive batter post. I have an 80A inline circuit breaker coming that I will try to add as overload protection. Placed a water proof push button switch up on the right bar cover within reach but not in the way. Have some wire on order to hook up that switch to the relay as HD and Lowes did not have the kind I wanted in stranded so waiting on that and the CB to finish up the wiring.
Mar 18th, 2018 11:05 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
That amount should at least get you 1 cubic foot of box.
I wouldn't count on it.
Mar 18th, 2018 8:00 pm
Voyager
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddleman View Post
I hear you guys on the size of the box with BMW parts & the cost. My box of parts for this season should be here next week almost $4000.
That amount should at least get you 1 cubic foot of box.
Mar 18th, 2018 7:00 pm
saddleman
Re: My $500 of

I hear you guys on the size of the box with BMW parts & the cost. My box of parts for this season should be here next week almost $4000.
Mar 18th, 2018 6:48 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

I'm done. It is going back together. Not touching that transmission. 10k miles and my drain plug is almost spotless. New oil engine and trans and then wire up the EHCS.
Mar 18th, 2018 5:43 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
I should post a picture of my $811 (paid $648) worth of parts. Four sets of rings, 8 bolts, 8 gasket rings, a timing chain guide kit, 16 valve stem seals and a head gasket. I just did an oil change and went back to dino, Castrol 20W 50. I will run that until next fall and continue adding oil if necessary. Then I will tear her down and re-ring and valve job her. I just want to ride for now plus oil is cheap. Just afraid of what I will find when I open her up, the last two I tore apart did not fair well. But then there were holes in the pistons and broken ring lands.
You should post a pic of it. It is amazing the cost of things like this.

Smartire unit mounted and powered. Two tires left to go on installing sensors. Nomar bar in hand.

I am with you on wanting to ride it. Center stand is next and when off going to do the trans oil and check the magnet. If that is good, it is going back together. I can live with a rattle for another season. PM me your CS rebuild cost. IF this thing leaks under pressure, I am going to need it done. It looked OK on the bench once I got the cylinder properly aligned when I cleaned and flushed it but it wasn't lifting 900+ lbs.
Mar 18th, 2018 5:34 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
I followed Sailor's recommendation and configured my vacuum lines as on the non-US models. I don't know if this helped my off the line sag issue, but it didn't hurt. I left the valve in place in case a future owner wants to install a canister again. Just plug off the lines to keep them clean inside.
Purge valve removed.
Mar 18th, 2018 11:59 am
jzeiler
Re: My $500 of

I should post a picture of my $811 (paid $648) worth of parts. Four sets of rings, 8 bolts, 8 gasket rings, a timing chain guide kit, 16 valve stem seals and a head gasket. I just did an oil change and went back to dino, Castrol 20W 50. I will run that until next fall and continue adding oil if necessary. Then I will tear her down and re-ring and valve job her. I just want to ride for now plus oil is cheap. Just afraid of what I will find when I open her up, the last two I tore apart did not fair well. But then there were holes in the pistons and broken ring lands.
Mar 18th, 2018 8:56 am
Voyager
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
Yes, the canister has been removed so I may consider removing the purge valve while I have it apart this time. I don't have any connectors for the small hoses and they are somewhat stiff from age so it would probably be prudent to just replace all the hoses at the same time so they wouldn't split from having a new barb pushed into them. Sounds Like a stop at the auto store is in my near future, likely after Church. I may have a vacuum cap I can place on the barb where the purge valve connects to the loop and that would prevent the need to replace all the lines.
I followed Sailor's recommendation and configured my vacuum lines as on the non-US models. I don't know if this helped my off the line sag issue, but it didn't hurt. I left the valve in place in case a future owner wants to install a canister again. Just plug off the lines to keep them clean inside.
Mar 18th, 2018 8:22 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Gordon,

ABOUT that bulky / useless PURGE-VALVE:
I see you have it plugged leading to charcoal-canister. I assume you have removed the canister and fixed other small vent hose from fuel-tank.

If above is correct, then you can ALSO do the followings:
1) remove the purge-valve completely and just attached the connector to fuel-rail with zip-tie.
2) remove the hose leading from 4 vacuum hoses to purge-valve.
3) to fix "hole" in vacuum hose junction caused by previous removal, just replace middle vacuum hose junction by single hose of same size (see ATTACHED PHOTO).

The above way (no purge-valve) is how all K1200LT / K1200RS are built from factory for all countries except USA. There is no Motronic ECU error codes caused by fact the purge-valve connector is left unplugged - by design the system sends timed pulses but does not care what is at the other end.

Of course, nowadays some Euro regulation may force more recent models to have Charcoal canisters, but for K1200 "brick-engine", there was no canister for K1200 sold in Canada or Europe.
Yes, the canister has been removed so I may consider removing the purge valve while I have it apart this time. I don't have any connectors for the small hoses and they are somewhat stiff from age so it would probably be prudent to just replace all the hoses at the same time so they wouldn't split from having a new barb pushed into them. Sounds Like a stop at the auto store is in my near future, likely after Church. I may have a vacuum cap I can place on the barb where the purge valve connects to the loop and that would prevent the need to replace all the lines.
Mar 18th, 2018 7:26 am
sailor
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
...
.....
removed my old injectors and installed a set cleaned by Mr Injector and certified all the same and fully functional. Got that all laced back in. Forgot to take a pic of the new injectors on the fuel rail before I put it back in and laced it up. I actually did put the purge valve plug on an injector and didn't notice it until I went to put the purge valve plug back on and noticed the markings for what injector I took it from. Glad I marked them as I removed them or I might not have caught that mistake.
....
......
Gordon,

ABOUT that bulky / useless PURGE-VALVE:
I see you have it plugged leading to charcoal-canister. I assume you have removed the canister and fixed other small vent hose from fuel-tank.

If above is correct, then you can ALSO do the followings:
1) remove the purge-valve completely and just attached the connector to fuel-rail with zip-tie.
2) remove the hose leading from 4 vacuum hoses to purge-valve.
3) to fix "hole" in vacuum hose junction caused by previous removal, just replace middle vacuum hose junction by single hose of same size (see ATTACHED PHOTO).

The above way (no purge-valve AND no charcoal-canister) is how all K1200LT / K1200RS are built from factory for all countries except USA. There is no Motronic ECU error codes caused by fact the purge-valve connector is left unplugged - by design the system sends timed pulses but does not care what is at the other end.

Of course, nowadays some Euro regulation may force more recent models to have Charcoal canisters, but for K1200 "brick-engine", there was no canister for K1200 sold in Canada or Europe.
Mar 17th, 2018 9:39 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Was a busy day today. Got my replacement pinion bearing from MotoBins installed and the final drive re-assembled with the new taper bearing and replaced seal on the castle nut tightened properly with loctite. New pivot bearing replacement bushings installed. Hope to see a write up on installation from Ted Porter as we exchanged some emails after the MFG redirected my inquiry back to the selling dealer.

Installed a new O2 sensor replacing the 18 year old one just on principal.

removed my old injectors and installed a set cleaned by Mr Injector and certified all the same and fully functional. Got that all laced back in. Forgot to take a pic of the new injectors on the fuel rail before I put it back in and laced it up. I actually did put the purge valve plug on an injector and didn't notice it until I went to put the purge valve plug back on and noticed the markings for what injector I took it from. Glad I marked them as I removed them or I might not have caught that mistake.

Took a few moments to install some Time-Serts on some holes where the aluminum was beginning to strip out. Those bolts can only be removed and tightened so many times before the aluminum gives up.

Hopefully tomorrow I will get a look at the trans magnet and decide what to do next.
Mar 7th, 2018 1:19 pm
Voyager
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
Well, hopefully it is better than the $10 taper bearing I got to replace the failed one in my junk drive. This one I would not use to save my life. The machining marks were much more visible and overall a rougher look and feel. I only got it so the junker would be complete with no broken pieces to work on for removal and replacement of parts before I did the process on my primary FD. The Timken at least looked well made by comparison and it is a familiar name. Hope it holds up over time. Apparently this bearing is also used on trailer wheels. Go figure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
At least that is a proper application. They call them roller rather than oscillating bearings for a reason, except apparently in Bavaria.
Mar 7th, 2018 9:49 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
It depends on where they were made. If they really are OEM, then they should be good. You just never know with eBay.

http://listings.findthecompany.com/l...ompany-Limited
Well, hopefully it is better than the $10 taper bearing I got to replace the failed one in my junk drive. This one I would not use to save my life. The machining marks were much more visible and overall a rougher look and feel. I only got it so the junker would be complete with no broken pieces to work on for removal and replacement of parts before I did the process on my primary FD. The Timken at least looked well made by comparison and it is a familiar name. Hope it holds up over time. Apparently this bearing is also used on trailer wheels. Go figure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mar 7th, 2018 9:03 am
Voyager
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
The Ebay Pivot bearings I bought were new BMW OEM parts, not cheap Chinese bearings. I don't think there is a Chinese substitute for that particular one or I have not found any other place but the dealer to get those.

The taper bearing was Timken and I thought those were of good quality.
It depends on where they were made. If they really are OEM, then they should be good. You just never know with eBay.

http://listings.findthecompany.com/l...ompany-Limited
Mar 7th, 2018 8:33 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
You are braver than me trusting a critical joint like this to cheap Chinese bearings.
The Ebay Pivot bearings I bought were new BMW OEM parts, not cheap Chinese bearings. I don't think there is a Chinese substitute for that particular one or I have not found any other place but the dealer to get those.

The taper bearing was Timken and I thought those were of good quality.
Mar 7th, 2018 8:05 am
Voyager
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
Worked on the taper bearing race and measuring tonight. Again, I had to take a grinder to a perfectly good tool to make it do what I wanted. The arms on my pilot bearing puller did not extend in quite far enough before impacting the case and would not grab the lip of the bearing race so I modified it to work along with some heat and the race came out very easily and I didn't burn my fingers. I heated up the case again to a little above 200F, put some loctite on the outer race and it literally fell into the hole. I had prepared the old race from my purchased junk FD by again, grinding the outer surface down so it would fit with no resistance into the race hole so I could use it as a driver but it was not necessary. I did use it to tap lightly on the new race to make sure there was no loctite holding it up from being fully seated.

I moved on to measuring per the Clymer manual with my new tool and a gauge block and was very pleased that I came up with the same shim pack I was running previously having done it by the Dman method per CharlieVT's Video which meant the new taper bearing and race were the same as the ones I removed, as it should be and nothing had spun or worn abnormally. Tomorrow I will press in the new pinion seal and prepare for reassembly but I still have to wait till my new pivot bushing kit arrives to finish my FD and move on. I bought a set of Pivot bearings on Ebay pretty cheap, like $30 each, new in the bag but I put them in my spare FD. Like you John, I am not pulling them out to put them on my primary FD. They will just have to stay there along with the old pivot pins in case I need to use it.
You are braver than me trusting a critical joint like this to cheap Chinese bearings.
Mar 7th, 2018 12:15 am
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Worked on the taper bearing race and measuring tonight. Again, I had to take a grinder to a perfectly good tool to make it do what I wanted. The arms on my pilot bearing puller did not extend in quite far enough before impacting the case and would not grab the lip of the bearing race so I modified it to work along with some heat and the race came out very easily and I didn't burn my fingers. I heated up the case again to a little above 200F, put some loctite on the outer race and it literally fell into the hole. I had prepared the old race from my purchased junk FD by again, grinding the outer surface down so it would fit with no resistance into the race hole so I could use it as a driver but it was not necessary. I did use it to tap lightly on the new race to make sure there was no loctite holding it up from being fully seated.

I moved on to measuring per the Clymer manual with my new tool and a gauge block and was very pleased that I came up with the same shim pack I was running previously having done it by the Dman method per CharlieVT's Video which meant the new taper bearing and race were the same as the ones I removed, as it should be and nothing had spun or worn abnormally. Tomorrow I will press in the new pinion seal and prepare for reassembly but I still have to wait till my new pivot bushing kit arrives to finish my FD and move on. I bought a set of Pivot bearings on Ebay pretty cheap, like $30 each, new in the bag but I put them in my spare FD. Like you John, I am not pulling them out to put them on my primary FD. They will just have to stay there along with the old pivot pins in case I need to use it.
Mar 6th, 2018 7:58 pm
jzeiler
Re: My $500 of

I have not installed mine yet as I now have the 2.82 drive and a spare 2.62 drive and I can't swap them out easily with those pivots installed. Guess I could pack the old pivots with the spare drive in case I need to change it on a trip.
Mar 6th, 2018 5:34 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post
I am curious to hear some reports of how these hold up in the field. I don't recall any "in use" reports thus far.

I am currently using the tapered bronze bushings that I bought from RCRG. They have held up well thus far. The are a little messy to install as you need to put some Loctite on them to ensure they don't rotate on the aluminum pin.
I am not sure anyone has had these new ones in long enough to know how they will hold up. Kirk and John are the only ones I remember having installed them so far but others had expressed interest including me. Even if they only last as long as the needle bearings, they are a less expensive option so more desirable on that front at least. They are externally lubricatable but from what I remember, there are no installation instructions or even suggestions on how often to give them a squirt. I guess we will have to figure that out as we go.
Mar 6th, 2018 2:36 pm
Voyager
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwcoolk1200 View Post
One of my pivot bearings is starting to get a little notchy so I am joining Kent and John and going to install the Ei Paralever Bushing Kit from Ted's beamershop. Not paying $97 each for bearings that should cost $10. I hope this is a more permanent solution.

BeemerShop Ei Paralever Bushing Kit R1100S/ R1150 ALL/ K1200RS/LT/GT

Add another $129 to the spring maintenance. Still cheaper than the bearings.
I am curious to hear some reports of how these hold up in the field. I don't recall any "in use" reports thus far.

I am currently using the tapered bronze bushings that I bought from RCRG. They have held up well thus far. The are a little messy to install as you need to put some Loctite on them to ensure they don't rotate on the aluminum pin.
Mar 6th, 2018 1:45 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

One of my pivot bearings is starting to get a little notchy so I am joining Kent and John and going to install the Ei Paralever Bushing Kit from Ted's beamershop. Not paying $97 each for bearings that should cost $10. I hope this is a more permanent solution.

BeemerShop Ei Paralever Bushing Kit R1100S/ R1150 ALL/ K1200RS/LT/GT

Add another $129 to the spring maintenance. Still cheaper than the bearings.
Mar 5th, 2018 10:05 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Today's efforts were modest. Cleaned all the grease off and ground down my bearing separator so it would fit in the space between the needle bearing race and the pinion so I could remove the race and then fully reinstall it with some loctite so hopefully it won't creep any more.

Nothing like taking a perfectly good tool and taking a grinder to it

Had to do the same with my 2 jaw puller. The other end of the jaws were already ground down to be able to fit under and pull the crown bearing off so why not make the remaining other side good for the taper bearing. Had to grind it out so the jaws would reach far enough in to hit the inner race and not just catch on the cage. Worked well and the new taper bearing is seated with loctite curing. The speed sensor ring was not at all loose so I left it alone. Hope that doesn't come back to bite me later.
Mar 5th, 2018 1:10 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Got it up on the lift to start my servicing. First issue was the FD leak at the boot. Got the FD off and had a closer look. I have BMW syn in the gear box and royal purple in the FD. The oil was purple so it came from the FD for sure so leaking around the pinion seal. I bolted it up to my pinion locking device and put the 36mm socket on with Big Bertha torque wrench and started to push to loosen and there was no resistance. I thought I must not have the socket on the nut so I took it off the wrench and made sure it fit by hand again and I had the right socket. As it turns out, the pinion nut was finger loose and that was the source of the leak. I decided to take it all the way apart and inspect to make sure there was no damage from the pinion being loose. Aparently someone had been in there before I got it and didn't properly tighten that nut. I know it wasn't me as I didn't have a 36mm socket when I did the crown bearing so I couldn't even have checked it then no less removed it. After a quick chat with Dave on what type of damage I might expect and need to specifically look for, I have decided it can go back together as is with a new pinion seal and a repair of the creeping pinion race. I may also do the taper bearing as I have one already and will be doing the shim measurements with my new tool as I put it back together. I didn't see any damage so feel lucky I caught it soon enough.
Feb 28th, 2018 7:57 am
bartold73
Re: My $500 of

cool, Hermy's is about 20 minutes from me. I got my inspection and service there.
Feb 27th, 2018 10:29 am
Voyager
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by JNW003 View Post
No pun intended?
Pun very much intended.
Feb 26th, 2018 9:28 pm
bmwcoolk1200
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by niel_petersen View Post
My 2005 K1200LT had a precautionary final drive reshim/rebuild and that has been it for 26000 miles - except for oil, filters, and brake fluid flushes.
I did my FD crown bearing almost 10K miles ago but didn't do the pinion seal. I now have oil seeping from the FD boot so I hope it is that seal and not the trans output shaft which I did replace when I did my clutch. I should have done both but was much more of a newbe and didn't know what I know now. I just had a cover destroyed by a friend to make a tool to do the shim measurements and will be checking it when I do the pinion seal assuming that is the leak. Not as fancy as some I have seen on this forum but it should do the job. You can compare the official BMW tool below with what I asked my friend to do. This should be on Pintrest.


Nailed it!
Feb 26th, 2018 8:30 pm
niel_petersen
Re: My $500 of

My 2005 K1200LT had a precautionary final drive reshim/rebuild and that has been it for 26000 miles - except for oil, filters, and brake fluid flushes.
Feb 26th, 2018 4:26 pm
JNW003
Re: My $500 of

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager View Post

Every time I ride mine somewhere ... I get to work on it again. It is a vicious cycle!
No pun intended?
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