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post #1 of 19 Old May 11th, 2006, 4:05 pm Thread Starter
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Will this work??

Link to product on E-bay

I want an additional light a bit higher up on the rear. Was planning to mount this on the top case. Just wanted to know if it will work on the '99 LT.

Prakash Krishnamurthy

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post #2 of 19 Old May 11th, 2006, 4:10 pm
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Should work fine. Very similar to the LED bar on the luggage rack

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post #3 of 19 Old May 11th, 2006, 4:28 pm
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That's a pretty cool light bar--it probably has 5 wires coming out of it: one for ground, one for brakes, one for tail lights, and two for turn signals. If this is the case, you should be able to make the brake light function flash if you want. Yes, very interesting--got me thinking.

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post #4 of 19 Old May 11th, 2006, 5:02 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryschumer
That's a pretty cool light bar--it probably has 5 wires coming out of it: one for ground, one for brakes, one for tail lights, and two for turn signals. If this is the case, you should be able to make the brake light function flash if you want. Yes, very interesting--got me thinking.

Found out about this light from the the trailer towing forum on Delphi. here's what they say...

"it has 4 wires. They are ground, tail light, and left brake/turn, and right brake/turn."

Prakash Krishnamurthy

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post #5 of 19 Old May 11th, 2006, 9:22 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unleashd
Link to product on E-bay

I want an additional light a bit higher up on the rear. Was planning to mount this on the top case. Just wanted to know if it will work on the '99 LT.
Before you move this direction, I'd suggest that you check out my trunk light on Saturday -- I suspect it may be what you are looking for.

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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post #6 of 19 Old May 12th, 2006, 4:07 am
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Or this. I purchased this from Mortons for my 00lt. I had to place a piece of rubber filler material behind it. This is for tail and brake lights.
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post #7 of 19 Old May 12th, 2006, 4:28 am
 
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Sure wouldn't be nicer if it was about twice that length Mike.

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post #8 of 19 Old May 12th, 2006, 9:08 am
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Yeah, I guess that could work too--when the brakes are on, both sides light, when it's a turn signal, one side blinks. But if the brakes and turn signals are on, then one side would be on while the other blinked. That would be for a vehicle that uses the same bulb for a brake and turn signal. Our bikes have separate turn signal and brake circuits so I'm not sure how you would wire it. You may have to choose between having it be a brake light OR a turn signal, but not both.

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post #9 of 19 Old May 12th, 2006, 9:27 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mneblett
Before you move this direction, I'd suggest that you check out my trunk light on Saturday -- I suspect it may be what you are looking for.
Mark,
All of us who can't be there want to see it now.........Is it bright?

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post #10 of 19 Old May 12th, 2006, 10:23 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dochatley
Mark,
All of us who can't be there want to see it now.........Is it bright?
It's nothing fancy, but I believe effective. I wired the trunk rack LED to be a 1/2-power running light, making the tail *much* more noticable at night, and installed a Kisan flasher unit to provide a decaying-flash-speed brake light function *only* at the rack light.

I believe this is a better approach than making *all* the brake lights flash, based on two fundamental human reactions.

First, the human brain is attracted to contrast -- primarily contrast in color, contrast in motion, and constrast in intensity. Providing contrast is key to getting cager attention.

Second, most cage drivers have been trained through years of vehicle operation to subconsciously process and respond to a *solid* red brake light.

My belief is that a flashing brake light is an excellent way to *get* a cager's attention, but that the cager doesn't instantaneously, subconsciously process it as a "brake!" stimulus, like they would if they saw a solid brake light. Of course, if there's no blinking, they may not immediately see the brake light at all (as can happen when they look away, and then look back after the brake light has been illuminated, and therefore miss the "change" from off to on).

So, I prefer both -- a flashing rack light to get attention, and a solid main brake light to trigger the "stop!!" reaction. The Kisan unit continues to flash to get attention even from those that miss the initial brake application (the flashing continues for several seconds), but eventually goes solid to prevent cager annoyance at stop lights.

The difference may be only a few milliseconds, but hey, that's a few milliseconds in my favor.

Lastly, I don't believe turn signal LEDs at the trunk level add much, or are all that effective. The main turn signals are very good, being large and bright yellow (i.e., high contrast, both in color and intensity). Very hard to miss, especially at night. In contrast, while you may think you see a big difference from a trunk-mounted LED turn signal when you're standing right next to it, as a practical matter at 100 feet behind, it's not all that noticable relative to the large, bright yellow turn signal.

Moreover, I suspect that a trunk-mounted LED actually slows cager reactions. Rather than the cager seeing and immediately reacting to the subconsciously-recognized "standard" yellow turn signal, they see some additional flashing light *nearly at the center of the bike* -- not a normal turn signal location. This additional, not instantaneously-recognized "thing" requires additional processing for the brain to "recognize" and process as a turn signal -- a distraction that may affect reaction time. Of course, I could be wrong about this, but that's the reason I didn't add a trunk LED turn signal.

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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post #11 of 19 Old May 16th, 2006, 2:58 pm Thread Starter
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Question How to mount this???

Well, the brown truck dropped off the the LED bar when I was home for lunch.

First impression - Wow!!! This bar is big and will capture a lot of attention



The instructions are pretty straight forward



But the dang thing is long and its impossible to make that thing fit on the contour of the top rack. In fact, it ain't gonna fit anywhere on the bike



Hmm...well, either I start fabricating a mount for this or .....

Prakash Krishnamurthy

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post #12 of 19 Old May 16th, 2006, 3:02 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mneblett
It's nothing fancy, but I believe effective. I wired the trunk rack LED to be a 1/2-power running light, making the tail *much* more noticable at night, and installed a Kisan flasher unit to provide a decaying-flash-speed brake light function *only* at the rack light...
I had the Kisan flasher installed on my trunk rack LED this weekend also. After seeing it in action at STC, I had to have it.

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post #13 of 19 Old May 16th, 2006, 7:36 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mneblett
I wired the trunk rack LED to be a 1/2-power running light....
Can you post instructions for that?
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post #14 of 19 Old May 16th, 2006, 9:35 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midwilshire
Can you post instructions for that?
I believe the newer Kisan units have this feature built in. When I did this, this wasn't an option. I can't remember who originally posted the basics (David??), but it's not complicated.

The basic idea is to run switched power to the rack light, with a resistor in the switched power line before it joins the rack LED power wire, and a diode in the LED power wire *upstream* of the point the switched power line joins the LED line.
--------
The switched power provides the running light power.

The resistor in the switched power line cuts the voltage that reaches the LED down to avoid having the LED be at full, brakelight-on brightness. IIRC, I used ~235 Ohms -- two Rat Shack 470 Ohm resistors in parallel.

The diode keeps the switched power from going back upstream through the brake light harness, but still lets the regular brake light signal to pass to the LED unimpeded.
--------
You can put the connections under the trunk, or as I did, on the trunk. I put the Kisan and the connections under the trunk left speaker cover, mostly because the LED wires are very accessible, and hard to mistake for other wires. Space for the Kisan box is real tight there, though, if you are putting a flasher on, too. Don't forget to put a quick-disconnect in the switched power line if you put the resistor/diode/connection stuff on the trunk, so you can still remove the trunk!

HTH,

Mark Neblett
Fairfax, VA
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post #15 of 19 Old May 17th, 2006, 1:38 am
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Thanks - seems very easy and very worthwhile.
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post #16 of 19 Old May 18th, 2006, 11:21 pm
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Trunk Rack LED Bar -- Running Light Mod

Quote:
Originally Posted by mneblett
The basic idea is to run switched power to the rack light, with a resistor in the switched power line before it joins the rack LED power wire, and a diode in the LED power wire *upstream* of the point the switched power line joins the LED line.
Hi Mark, I just finished converting the trunk LED bar to running lights, and I'm surprised at how much of a difference it makes! And all for less than $10 & one hour of labor.

I wired it a little differently, though, and thought I'd post it here as another option for those considering the mod. I used less than 12" of wire, and all work was done inside the left-rear speaker assembly.

I used the power coming from the brake circuit for the LED bar to run a relay instead of the LED bar. I then pulled power from the trunk light (upstream of switch) into the common terminal on the relay. The Normally Closed side of the relay has the two 470 ohm resistors in parallel, and the Normally Open side is unimpeded. Both run out to the LED bar. So, the LED bar is normally powered through the resisters (1/2 brightness), and when the brakes are applied, the relay is activated, and the power runs through the unimpeded side (full brightness). A more detailed description is attached.
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post #17 of 19 Old Jun 16th, 2006, 11:26 am
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Anybody know if you could do the mod for the rack light to be on for running and install the Riderwest Brake Light Flasher to work when braking?

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post #18 of 19 Old Jun 16th, 2006, 11:41 am
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Oven

I'm wondering if you could heat the thing up in the oven and then bend it to form to the contour of the trunk.

We used to use vegetable oil in a deep fryer to soften PVC and the like to push it over an anvil to shape it...I dont' think I'd dunk that thing in the deep fryer though. Maybe heat it up in the oven to about 200 degrees..

All the ideas of using resistors and diodes to provide a running light are great too. Just two diodes away from having the whole thing work...

Use two more diodes in the turn signal circuits and you can have. Running, Brake and both turn signals...

John

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post #19 of 19 Old Jun 16th, 2006, 3:45 pm
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The Rider West Brake Flasher works by switching the ground. I'm developing a unit that switches the HOT side instead--this unit would work with the taillight mod. Just insert it in line with the hot wire that's on when the brakes are applied. Let me know if you're interested an I'll make sure Raffy has one for you real soon.

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