Have you tried running a test wires from the negative and plus directly to the LEDs? Good idea to fuse the plus wire near the batt terminal, use any fuse equal to or more than the current draw of the LEDS. This is mainly to prevent the wire conducting electricinty if there is a short. attatch the plus wire first, then negative to LEDs and lastly to the batt. Remember LED are diodes and therefor only conduct electricity one way--hook em up backwards and NO light!!
Also remember that LEDs run on low voltage and need a dropping resistor to lower the voltage unless there is an array of LEDs whose combined voltage draw equals 12.5V
the 24v rating is the maximum voltage of the DC portion of the relay, 12V is well below the max voltage. If you look at the wiring diagram on the replay you will see that Normally Open ones all use the same terminals, but it is always best to double check that. they use two terminals for the control and two terminals for the line that is opened or closed. the fifth terminal is to use the replay as a Normally closed switch. the line that is switched has plus controlled line either normally close, ON, and switched to open, OFF, or the other way around.
Once again relays in our situation are used because the switch cannot handle the voltage or current needed for the device being ON or OFF--Or it can simply be that it is less expensive to use a low voltage low current switch and wire to control the device which is not near the switch.
It looks as if Cree auxillary light module draws around 530ma, aprox half and amp, a little over 6 watts but consume 10 watts (dropping resistor)( http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...Specifications
A 4 cree assembly consumes 13.5 Watts, 1000mA(1.0A) at 13.6V?.
So, as long as your switch can handle the current of your lights, no need for a relay unless you do not want to run the light circuit from where they are to your switch.
To check a relay, simply remove it and then run a jumper between the sockets that are used for the controlled line ON state.
half and amp and above should be enough to break through any oxidation on connections.
SO, how can the voltage of the controlled 13.6V line be less than the voltage in the rest of the LT?? Especially if it is run directly to the battery?
You can check the voltage going into the relay's socket, insert the replay partially and measure the voltage coming out of the relay's terminal and then voltage into the light's socket--there should be any difference since consuming 6v or so will generate some heat? That extra resistance needed to drop that much voltage should over load the fuse if the fuse is the correct value for the current draw of the LEDS.
An H3 halogen bulb is rated at 55 watts, 1450 lumens(http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ulb_types.html
) controlling two 110 watts at 13 volts, since its dc 110/13V, around 8.5 amps. two 4 cree aux lights, each 678 Lumen, would draw around 27 watts, around half of the halogens.
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