Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fairfax, VA, USA
Re: Communication systems for audio system K 1600 GT / GTL
A couple comments on installing the BMW headset in a C3 (dupe from K1600forum post):
My dealer received the two BMW communicator units I ordered with my GTL on Friday. I picked them up yesterday and had both installed by the evening. The installation is quite involved but not what I would call hard.
I should note that I have had my C3 apart before for installation of a J&M headset and then a Scala G4 headset, so I am very familiar/comfortable with disassembly/assembly of a C3 -- perhaps not the best person to judge difficulty for someone who has never ripped apart a C3 before.
For once, the instructions are excellent -- do it *exactly* as they say, and you'll be fine (be sure to have your dealer print out a copy for you!).
The one variation I did during installation: In the middle of the instructions, they have you go through a testing/diagnostic procedure, while all of the components are laying loose in the brain bucket, then finish the installation. I did the complete installation and then did the test.
On the system test itself, two things to note:
The test looks *very* long -- it's not. If the ~6 steps show the feature being tested to be ok, you skip a *lot* of text to the next step. The large amount of extra text is the diagnostics in the event a test step fails.
The other thing is that at a couple steps you are instructed to press the on/off button twice (to start the next test step). What they mean is press twice like a mouse double-click, not two slow presses.
The only tools needed were a cut-off piece of hanger to form a small hook, used to pull the rear chin strap-retaining strips back into the cheek pads to loop over the chin strap ends, and a pair of side cutters to snip off excess length of a couple zip-tie-like studs.
A couple not-obvious things:
After removing the cheek pads, you have to remove the hard foam sections under them. The front edge of the hard foam section is held in place by a short section of zip-tie-like piece of plastic afixed to the helmet shell, and a small (2cm) plastic disk. The plastic disk as two tiny center "fingers" through which the zip-tie end pass to retain the foam piece. You basically have to *gently* pry the foam section away from the helmet shell, until the two fingers "give up" and release (with a "pop") the zip-tie end.
The other non-obvious thing is the small plastic disk must be removed from the foam section. It is located under a flat plastic reinforcing plate. The disk is reused by placing it over the plastic plate on reassembly. To get the disk out (it is not planar; it has a center "pin" when locks it against sideways motion) I used a 5mm Allen wrench from behind the foam section to reach through the foam (in the hole where the zip-tie end originally passes though the foam) to push against the center pin and the lift the small disk away from the foam (pushing it against the plastic plate); pushing the wrench sideways a bit would slide the small disk toward the edge of the plastic plate. 4-5 repetitions slowly advances the disk until eventually slides out sideways from under the plastic plate.
Oh, and one more thing. My wife and I both found the indentations in the hard cheek foam for the ear speakers to be too high and slightly to the rear of the ear. A bit of trimming off the surface of the foam extended the speaker pockets down and slightly forward to center the speakers over our ears. Every head is different -- check the fit and modify or not as needed.
Happy to answer Qs.
Last edited by mneblett; Jun 19th, 2011 at 7:59 pm.