Taper Bearing Final Drive - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 10 Old Apr 18th, 2014, 6:38 pm Thread Starter
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Taper Bearing Final Drive

The taper bearing on the crown wheel of my final drive is loose. Anyone know a fix to replace stock taper bearing with one with a smaller inside diameter. Have put green loctite on but do not have much hope that it will hold up. Short of replacing final drive does anyone have any recommendations. Also anyone venture to guess how long I can safely ride without replacing final drive? Presently no wheel wobble or metal in final drive oil. Just a loose taper bearing.
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post #2 of 10 Old Apr 18th, 2014, 7:01 pm
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Re: Taper Bearing Final Drive

http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/p...=8797931667457

Not used it myself, but worth a try if you think your inner race is within limits.


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post #3 of 10 Old Apr 18th, 2014, 9:18 pm
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Re: Taper Bearing Final Drive

Have you measured how much material is missing? I had the same thing but I was missing 0.75 mm of material off the spindle. A friend here made me a sleeve out of 1 inch diameter seamless steel tubing. I'll find the post and list it here.

If it is not wobbling on the spindle but you can hand slide it off the loctite sleeve retainer (green) should hold it OK. Just clean it up with acetone and let it cure over night. It takes 400 degrees to break it loose.

Here is the link to my fix.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #4 of 10 Old Apr 19th, 2014, 7:24 am
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Re: Taper Bearing Final Drive

I would be very suprised if you have much metal missing from the aluminium trunnion as it is running in oil. It possibly feels worse than it is. Have someone accurately measure the diameter and compare to the bearing inner raceway bore. As JZ mentioned, he had 0.003" (0.075mm) clearance. Loctite retaining compound will take that up. Here in Oz the product number is 690, but there are variations around the world. Prime the (both) surfaces with Loctite Primer T (aerosol can), allow to dry, do not touch the surfaces. Then apply the retaining compound to both parts, slide the bearing on and leave the assembly in a vertical position over night, preferably in a warm environment. Wipe off the excess before assembling the FD unit. As an aside, an old engineering trick, should the wear be too severe, is to knurl the trunnion (in a lathe). This will increase the diameter. Then follow the above loctite preparation steps and push the bearing into place. HTH

Dennis
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post #5 of 10 Old Apr 19th, 2014, 11:32 am
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Re: Taper Bearing Final Drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by K100Dennis View Post
As JZ mentioned, he had 0.003" (0.075mm) clearance.
Actually Dennis it was 0.75 mm or 0.029" . No amount of loctite would fix that so I sleeved it. I had not changed the oil in the FD for almost 20 K and there was a wobble I could feel while riding. But you are correct get a proper measurement at a machine shop and a slight knurl would also be in order.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #6 of 10 Old Apr 19th, 2014, 1:37 pm
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Re: Taper Bearing Final Drive

The shade-tree version of knurling is a spring loaded center punch. Just carefully mark off some lines equal distance around the shaft with a permanent marker and apply the needed number of punches.


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post #7 of 10 Old Apr 19th, 2014, 8:04 pm
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Re: Taper Bearing Final Drive

Yes Dean, correct. Both methods will work equally well if the total clearance is not too great initially. I've seen plenty of people 'freehand' the centre-punching as well. Used correctly, the loctite will be a permenant solution, actually creating a fit with higher shear strength then the original interference fit. As for JZ's 0.75 mm clearance, now I understand the comment about the s/s pipe sleeve. (I though it was some clever machinist who could spin up a sleeve with 0.00015" wall thickness !)

Dennis
1987 Yamaha TY250R
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1988 K100RT (the pack horse)
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post #8 of 10 Old Apr 19th, 2014, 9:15 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Taper Bearing Final Drive

Thanks to all for advise. Thanks to a member of this board who sold me a used drive for Very Very reasonable price, I decided that replacing the drive with the loose taper bearing would be the best solution. I'm going to Have Ted at the beemer shop inspect the used drive and do any adjustments/parts replacements (if needed) then have it installed in my LT.
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post #9 of 10 Old Apr 19th, 2014, 11:11 pm
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Re: Taper Bearing Final Drive

It was 1 inch OD tubing (25.4 mm) and the inside was turned down to 24.2 mm. So it was 1.193 mm (0.047") thick. Still an impressive feat considering the old lathe he was working with. Even more fun to press it on the spindle. We turned down to the final diameter after it was fix on the shaft with the sleeve retainer Loctite.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #10 of 10 Old Apr 20th, 2014, 10:33 am
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Re: Taper Bearing Final Drive

The wall thickness of the sleeve was actually .047 / 2 or .0235 in.
If necessary I still have raw 4130 tubing material & could make up another one, but not a thinner wall! It was a fun challenge tho.
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