2002 LT Clutch Replacement - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 6 Old Mar 9th, 2014, 11:04 pm Thread Starter
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2002 LT Clutch Replacement

Hello. I hope maybe someone on the site could give me some advice. I have been steadily tearing down my son's K1200LT after first removing the sidecar as the clutch slips so terribly we could not ride it last season. The local BMW dealer in Anchorage was not interested in the repair so I am reluctantly doing it myself. I finally got the clutch out today. The good news is there are no leaks in the transmission, engine or slave cylinder. The bad news is the pressure plate and rear housing are heat damaged. Discolored and some radial cracks. The Clymer manual says the front and rear housing and pressure plate are a balanced set. I have not removed the front housing as there is no need to as it is not damaged and there is no oil leak, and the bike only has 22k miles on it. If I purchase a new pressure plate, spring and rear housing do I need to get them balanced somewhere? The parts are listed on several sites but no mention of buying them as a set. Can anyone give me their opinion or experience in this? I also see some posts where some of you have the cutaway 30mm socket tool, and I would be most grateful if I could borrow one please.

-Kevin
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post #2 of 6 Old Mar 10th, 2014, 12:59 am
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Re: 2002 LT Clutch Replacement

First. I would change the O-ring as it is the normal reason for oil leaks / remove the housing, but choice is yours.
As for balancing: I had exactly same question when I did mine. After removing all parts and thorough cleaning I found the paint mark also in the housing. The set (Housing, pressure plate, cover) are balanced by setting those marks 120 degrees from each other (if this is possible). So you do not need to have the set balanced even though you would change only part of the set. The paint mark always identifies the heaviest section of that part.

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post #3 of 6 Old Mar 10th, 2014, 1:47 am
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Re: 2002 LT Clutch Replacement

As C-A-D. said, the heavy points are marked with paint marks.
I wasn't sure about mine so used a Marc Parnes wheel balance.
Very sensitive and after confirming the marks just reassemble
120 apart.
As you're in there anyway, great time to replace rear engine seal
and 19mm O-ring. Use Viton.

Cheers

Jenna: Ocean Blue '06
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post #4 of 6 Old Mar 10th, 2014, 3:10 pm Thread Starter
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Re: 2002 LT Clutch Replacement

Thanks for clearing up the mystery about balancing. New parts including the rear seal are on order. I will get the Viton O-ring coming today. Does anyone have a lead on the 30mm socket tool? USPS flat rate to Alaska is the same as anywhere else, and I'll gladly pay postage.

Thanks again!
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post #5 of 6 Old Mar 10th, 2014, 3:36 pm
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Re: 2002 LT Clutch Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by danssidecar View Post
Thanks for clearing up the mystery about balancing. New parts including the rear seal are on order. I will get the Viton O-ring coming today. Does anyone have a lead on the 30mm socket tool? USPS flat rate to Alaska is the same as anywhere else, and I'll gladly pay postage.

Thanks again!
About the 30mm socket tool: you should send as private mail to SADDLEMAN in case he has some left from his custom made stuff. See this tread:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70968

Another option where I bought mine a few years ago (before I learned about SADDLEMAN):
http://www.thetoolacademy.com/produc...productId=7128
They are based in UK but offer shipping at fair price. Bough mine for 9 UK-pounds + 8.5 UK-pounds shipping (Total approx $US 29 on current xchange rate).

-------------------------------------------------
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
-------------------------------------------------
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"The value of this board is not founded on dismissing the ideas of others, but by posting to share our experiences and what we've learned from them."
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post #6 of 6 Old Mar 11th, 2014, 8:27 am
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Re: 2002 LT Clutch Replacement

While you are in there you might want to replace the problematic clutch slave master cylinder with the updated part, or at least drill the 'weep' holes. When the engine seal went on my -02, I had all the seals replaced, and the slave. Minor expense compared to the effort required to get in there.

Motor On ,/'


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