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post #1 of 57 Old May 14th, 2006, 5:11 pm Thread Starter
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Fork Seal Change

I don't know if anyone has performed this service, but El Jeffe asked me to cross-post some pics and text from this job that I posted over at bmwmoa.org. And since El Jeffe pretty much gets whatever he wants, I relented.

If you have any questions, email me directly. Thanks.

----------

I've been dreading this job for awhile. I used my LT a lot this past January when we returned from our year in Italy, and the fork seals blew while riding around in the cold weather.

I had done this job on an R1100 before, and it wasn't terrible, but when I also saw a drop from the LT water pump(!), I figured I would just strip the bike down and do some major servicing since it had mostly been parked last year.

It comes apart pretty quickly to this point, but I did it over a few nights after dinner. I think most of you have seen what these bikes look like naked.

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post #2 of 57 Old May 14th, 2006, 5:12 pm Thread Starter
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So once the fenders are off, the calipers removed, and the front wheel off, its time to start pulling fork lowers. The Telelever lower fork legs are only secured at the fork brace, so once those bolts come off, we're sorta home free.

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post #3 of 57 Old May 14th, 2006, 5:14 pm Thread Starter
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I slid the right lower off first. The dust cap comes off, then a small recessed circlip (just use a little flatblade screwdriver and walk it out) needs to be removed. Then the seal is staring us right in the face.

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post #4 of 57 Old May 14th, 2006, 5:16 pm Thread Starter
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Now I don't have a seal puller. For whatever reason, I've been putting the purchase of this $8 tool off for 10 years.

Anyway, I did have my handy ISDE-approved dirt bike tire irons with a big fat blade on them. I tried angling one in and it worked perfectly.

Just to make sure the seal wanted to come out, I used my heat gun to warm up the metal around it. And it popped right out with little pressure.

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post #5 of 57 Old May 14th, 2006, 5:17 pm Thread Starter
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Tapping in the new seal was no problem. For another inexplicable reason, we have a 36mm socket that fit the OD of the seal perfectly. A few taps and it was seated.

I also reused the existing oil. Since its not needed for anything but lubrication, and appeared fairly clean, I just left the old stuff in there.

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post #6 of 57 Old May 14th, 2006, 5:19 pm Thread Starter
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After repeating the process on the other leg, it was time to put everything back together.

I did notice a very inconsistent application of loctite on the front end parts....some screws were loaded, and others didn't have any. For a bike that had been in production almost four years (mine's a 2001), you'd think they would have gotten the manufacturing process pretty well defined.

The last thing to do is to make sure the lower fork legs are parallel and pulled in sufficiently to grasp the front wheel. I started this process with just using the axle, but the slop in the holes up at the fork brace showed I needed to include the wheel in the process as well. I thought this would be done at the factory, but an unusual wear pattern on the left front wheel spacer makes me think that it might not happening. I don't know.

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post #7 of 57 Old May 14th, 2006, 5:21 pm Thread Starter
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So you probably noticed I didn't remove the top caps to bleed the air when reinstalling the legs. I encountered a bit of resistance when sliding the fork lower up the slider, for maybe the last inch of travel before the lower bottomed on the fork brace. Could this cause a seal problem later? Maybe. I guess I'll find out.
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post #8 of 57 Old May 14th, 2006, 5:53 pm
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Jon,

Thanks for taking the time to post this. And while it "seems" I always get whatever I want, you should consult my wife. You will find that it is very rarely the case that I do.


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post #9 of 57 Old Aug 3rd, 2007, 12:07 pm
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Changing the seals was easy thanks to this posting. I just want to say thank you.

I didn't remove any plastic to get to the forks. Simply jack the bike up take the front wheel off and undo the break and sensors ( I worked on one fork at a time ). I did this to reduce the stress on the brake lines.

I used a heat gun and screw driver and replaced the parts.

Seals and boots cost me $60.45 $35.58 for 2 seals and $19.98 for 2 boots. Plus sales tax.

The suspension seems firmer but I am sure it is just my imagination. I did zip tie a piece of shop cloth around the upper seals to stop the slow drain of fluid down the fork and on the wheel. I did this temporarily for my 2300 mile trip.

For the grief the leaking seals gave me the fix is sure easy.


I think the total job cost me approximatly little less than 1.5 hours?

Ian

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post #10 of 57 Old Sep 5th, 2008, 10:53 am
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Re: Fork Seal Change

This is a great post! Thanks for posting it. This is on my to-do list for this weekend after the Valve adjustment, but now that I see I really don't need to take off all the plastic I may put this off for a few days.

Thanks again!

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post #11 of 57 Old Sep 5th, 2008, 11:28 am
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Re: Fork Seal Change

For a few bucks extra I installed some generic dirt bike accordion boots to keep the forks completely clean - should add quite a bit of life to the new seals...

The top of the boot fit very snug on the shaft, the bottom was trimmed to fit with a razor blade while turning the shaft. Bottom secured with a wide, thick black nylon tie. There are 8 "pleats" showing, I cut several off to maintain full travel. The boots slightly touch the fairing at full lock.

I also replaced the fluid - even though it may look clean it is contaminated and will lead to premature seal failure.
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post #12 of 57 Old Sep 5th, 2008, 1:31 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Mr. Ron, Sir,
Do you recall the sizes of the boots?

...............
J.M.J...
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post #13 of 57 Old Sep 5th, 2008, 8:44 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by cfell
Mr. Ron, Sir,
Do you recall the sizes of the boots?
Ya' know Channing - I don't have a clue - but I'm pretty sure I did a write up about it on the old site.... might have some info there but I seem to remember I just got lucky.

Besides dirt bike boots a 4X4 off road shop might work.


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post #14 of 57 Old Oct 16th, 2008, 9:24 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdiaz
Now I don't have a seal puller. For whatever reason, I've been putting the purchase of this $8 tool off for 10 years.

Anyway, I did have my handy ISDE-approved dirt bike tire irons with a big fat blade on them. I tried angling one in and it worked perfectly.

Just to make sure the seal wanted to come out, I used my heat gun to warm up the metal around it. And it popped right out with little pressure.

Next Time you go to the dentist ask him/her for a Pick, used for cleaning your teeth. Curved one is good. Works great to remove O-Rings, and Seals, Rubber Gaskets and such.

NOGILLS2


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post #15 of 57 Old Oct 17th, 2008, 9:48 am
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Another way to get around the trapped air is place a few lengths of waxed dental floss in line with the tube. It will allow the air to escape and pulls out with hurting the seal.

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post #16 of 57 Old Dec 3rd, 2008, 3:31 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Thanks to all the above posts on front fork seal replacement, I did this as part of my winter repairs & servicing/farkling. Just got to get some HyperPro springs & it will be partly done & just waiting for Spring to arrive in Alberta.

Thanks again guys for your documentation.

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post #17 of 57 Old Dec 3rd, 2008, 3:58 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Jon: An excellent article! Thank you very much. I have a 2001 K1200LT with 198.5K on it and just noticed that I have a leaking fork seal a week or two ago. I had anticipated having to spend a small (or large) bag of gold having them replaced. I have confidence that I can handle this thanks to your instructions and pictures.

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post #18 of 57 Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 9:02 pm
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Thumbs up Re: Fork Seal Change

Just wanted to thank John and Jon for an excellent thread on replacing the fork seals! Like some other folks, I was afraid I had a brake fluid leak somewhere around my right fork. The right caliper was soaked with what I thought was Brake fluid, but turned out to be fork oil!

The job was quite simple thanks to this thread, and special thanks to John Z for the dental floss tip! I worked great!

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
Another way to get around the trapped air is place a few lengths of waxed dental floss in line with the tube. It will allow the air to escape and pulls out with hurting the seal.

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post #19 of 57 Old Nov 24th, 2009, 12:35 am
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Re: Fork Seal Change (& oil)

Perhaps I missed it but here is the stats on the oil from the manual:

Telescopic Fork Oil - approved grades: BMW telescopic fork oil, SHOWA ATF
Capacity per fork leg, SHOWA: L (Gal) - 0.47 (0.142)

I guess I better get with the program and do this since I just got the Ohlins rebuilt. Thanks for bringing this thread back into the forefront.

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post #20 of 57 Old Nov 24th, 2009, 1:10 am
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Wink Re: Fork Seal Change (& oil)

Yeah Ernie, I ended up just picking up a quart of the "BMW Fork Oil" when I went into Portland BMW to pick up the seals & boots. I think it was a whopping $8.95 or so, but for 100K+ miles who cares! .495 US Qt per side, so that one Qt is all ya need. Looks like grape juice!

Probably one of the easiest tasks on the Bike too. You really don't need to remove any tupperware, just the front wheel & fender!

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErnieA
Perhaps I missed it but here is the stats on the oil from the manual:

Telescopic Fork Oil - approved grades: BMW telescopic fork oil, SHOWA ATF
Capacity per fork leg, SHOWA: L (Gal) - 0.47 (0.142)

I guess I better get with the program and do this since I just got the Ohlins rebuilt. Thanks for bringing this thread back into the forefront.

John & Marilyn Fisher
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'95 Triumph "Tigger"
'12 Triumph 800XC "Tigger II" (RIP)
'12 Triumph 1200 Explorer "Shadow Tigger"
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post #21 of 57 Old Apr 23rd, 2010, 12:06 am
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Thumbs up Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by coug66
Changing the seals was easy thanks to this posting. I just want to say thank you.

I didn't remove any plastic to get to the forks. Simply jack the bike up take the front wheel off and undo the break and sensors ( I worked on one fork at a time ). I did this to reduce the stress on the brake lines.

I used a heat gun and screw driver and replaced the parts.

Seals and boots cost me $60.45 $35.58 for 2 seals and $19.98 for 2 boots. Plus sales tax.

The suspension seems firmer but I am sure it is just my imagination. I did zip tie a piece of shop cloth around the upper seals to stop the slow drain of fluid down the fork and on the wheel. I did this temporarily for my 2300 mile trip.

For the grief the leaking seals gave me the fix is sure easy.


I think the total job cost me approximatly little less than 1.5 hours?

Ian

Did mine today, heat gun worked great as seals came out and went in easily.
Reused dust covers.
Did not mess with oil, just checked to see that they were close to equal levels.
Dental floss worked fine.
Took just under 90 minutes and one beer.
Think I'll have another to celebrate.
Thanks guys for the spot on info.

Doug Holck
Lodi, Ca

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post #22 of 57 Old Apr 23rd, 2010, 5:12 am
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Re: Fork Seal Change

I did mine during the winter time. My left side was leaking. I changed both while I was there. Changed the fluid and boots also. I did not have luck with the dental floss. I ended up pulling both sides back off to get the floss out. The forks went back on with no problems, until... Two weeks later the same side started leaking. I wrapped a rag around it until I ordered a new seal. By the time the seal came in, it stopped leaking (warmer weather maybe???).

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post #23 of 57 Old Apr 23rd, 2010, 6:12 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougholck
Took just under 90 minutes and one beer.

1 beer? Really! Some how I doubt that?
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post #24 of 57 Old Jun 11th, 2010, 7:42 pm
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Angry Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrevelino
I did mine during the winter time. My left side was leaking. I changed both while I was there. Changed the fluid and boots also. I did not have luck with the dental floss. I ended up pulling both sides back off to get the floss out. The forks went back on with no problems, until... Two weeks later the same side started leaking. I wrapped a rag around it until I ordered a new seal. By the time the seal came in, it stopped leaking (warmer weather maybe???).
My left side is leaking again also but have not ridden more than 100 miles since replacing seals. The GS has been getting all the miles.
Took bike in this week for 72K service and they want $380 to replace fork seals and turned down my offer. They say that's what the BOOK says, even tho I told him I did it in about 1 hour, so will bring her home and ride awhile longer to see if it stops leaking or replace again myself.

Doug Holck
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post #25 of 57 Old Jun 11th, 2010, 9:14 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

I don't know if you can change out the fork seals on a K1200LT like this guy did on a R11XXGS . It might work... It might not .
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97873

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post #26 of 57 Old Jun 12th, 2010, 2:25 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patric
I don't know if you can change out the fork seals on a K1200LT like this guy did on a R11XXGS . It might work... It might not .
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97873
Easier to change them from the bottom on the LT, as getting to the "top" of the fork involves taking apart most of the bike :-)

- Take off fender
- Remove brake calipers
- Remove wheel
- Remove brake line supports
- Loosen two bolts
- Slide off fork

Replacement of the seal would be identical to the link you supplied.

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post #27 of 57 Old Oct 14th, 2010, 8:12 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

I'n new to this forum and much appreciative of all the info here. I have an '05 LT and just changed out the fork seals and dust covers. Left side was leading and the right was ok. Changed both sides and now the left side appears not to leak but the right side now leaks. Should have left well enough alone! I was careful to install the seals correctly and without damaging them I think.

Since I did the change from the bottom I couldn't open the bleed screw-I just fit the slider back on and overcame the resistance to bolt it back up by lifting it against a moderate amount of back pressure. Did it the same way on both sides.

I wonder now if not venting the air in the tube could cause the new seal to leak. I did read about using dental floss-after I had already installed the seal for the second time-so I guess if I have to tear it down again I could try that also. But would trapped air cause a seal to leak? Seems like the air would be forced out via normal slider/tube action...

Any info anyone has on this will be much appreciated.
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post #28 of 57 Old Oct 14th, 2010, 9:48 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

I replaced both sides on mine, and the one side that was not leaking started to leak. I wrapped a rag around it and within a week the leak stopped. I also tried the dental floss but it broke off inside which I had to pull the one side apart again.
Good luck!

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post #29 of 57 Old Oct 18th, 2010, 10:21 am
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlschell
I'n new to this forum and much appreciative of all the info here. I have an '05 LT and just changed out the fork seals and dust covers. Left side was leading and the right was ok. Changed both sides and now the left side appears not to leak but the right side now leaks. Should have left well enough alone! I was careful to install the seals correctly and without damaging them I think.

Since I did the change from the bottom I couldn't open the bleed screw-I just fit the slider back on and overcame the resistance to bolt it back up by lifting it against a moderate amount of back pressure. Did it the same way on both sides.

I wonder now if not venting the air in the tube could cause the new seal to leak. I did read about using dental floss-after I had already installed the seal for the second time-so I guess if I have to tear it down again I could try that also. But would trapped air cause a seal to leak? Seems like the air would be forced out via normal slider/tube action...

Any info anyone has on this will be much appreciated.

Well I replaced mine on my 05 this spring as I had a bad leak on the right side.. I read all the posts, the BMW service guide and all.. but performed the bottom only procedure as shown on this thread. I replaced seals and the dust caps and used the $BMW fork oil for the deal. I did not use the dental floss as they went back on so easily and even at the top the air left in the tube did not seem excessive! I have several thousand miles on since then and NO issues!!! so perhaps you just got a bad seal ? or did you possibly pinch the seal on install ? Sorry you have a leak, but this procedure absolutely works. Good luck !

Bill
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post #30 of 57 Old Oct 24th, 2010, 5:46 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Thanks for the posts about these seals.
I pulled the right tube off again and replaced the seal a second time. It still leaks, but only a little. Now I wonder if I might have put a touch too much oil in that side. It doesn't leak much at all-if I put my hand on the slider after riding, I have a slight sheen on my hand. I'm going to leave it alone for awhile and see what happens.
BTW, I thought I better get another seal for backup in case I have future problems, and the local dealer tells me there are no BMW seals available in any warehouse in the US. I called Chicago and they had a couple in stock (at 20% off as per normal) so had them send them out. I wonder if maybe the seals they have sold recently might have something worng with them. Of course the dealer has no way of knowing this but I'm suspicious given my bad experience.
I wish BMW had designed the forks so the bleeder could be opened some way without going in from the top-to put it where they did is crazy. I intend to try to corner a tech at the dealer next opportunity and ask them how they deal with the air problem when they put the slider back on. I know they charge 4 hours labor and probably spend an hour doing the work-they must have a trick...

Thanks again for the advice on this issue.
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post #31 of 57 Old Dec 20th, 2010, 3:32 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

HOW MUCH FLUID IS NEEDED? I am changing the seal on my left front fork (99LT with 55K miles). I took off the fork (which has been leaking and losing oil) and there is oil in the tube, about 2/3 the way up from the bottom. I need to top this off using new oil, but I don't know how much to add?

My option right now is to measure out 1/2 a liter (actually 470 ml is the quantity called for in the Clymer manual - page 410), empty the fork tube, and add the 1/2 liter. Seems like there should be an easier way to do it.

Thanks!

Dan Sullivan
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post #32 of 57 Old Dec 20th, 2010, 8:20 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by sully2028
HOW MUCH FLUID IS NEEDED? I am changing the seal on my left front fork (99LT with 55K miles). I took off the fork (which has been leaking and losing oil) and there is oil in the tube, about 2/3 the way up from the bottom. I need to top this off using new oil, but I don't know how much to add?

My option right now is to measure out 1/2 a liter (actually 470 ml is the quantity called for in the Clymer manual - page 410), empty the fork tube, and add the 1/2 liter. Seems like there should be an easier way to do it.

Thanks!
That is the specified amount of oil. But I don't think the level is critical since the fork tube does not act a a dampner is any way like a conventional bike. It is only there to lubricate. All shock type function is done by the single shock on the telelever.

John
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post #33 of 57 Old Dec 30th, 2011, 9:45 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

I just wanted to say thanks to jdiaz for the excellent pics and the write up! I was about to take my 2000 LT to the dealer to have the seals replaced, but your post saved me ~$250 minimum! My forks were significantly dirtier than your pics, so my working time was 2 beers due to the major cleaning I needed to do.
Thanks again!!!
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post #34 of 57 Old Jan 5th, 2012, 3:38 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Hi there,

I'm in mid seal replacement. I've got both fork tubes off and am cleaning everything up. I'm noticing that the upper fork tube on the right side (looking forward from the seat) cannot be rotated but the one on the left can spin easily with some resistance. Does this sound right? Should I be concerned about this? Do I need to open up the top and torque the tubes back down or should I leave it alone? Both seals were leaking so I don't think this is causing any issues that I know of.

Thank you,

Dan
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post #35 of 57 Old Jan 5th, 2012, 5:29 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

just curious if anyone has ever changed the bushing below the seal - after I changed the seals on the K1100 they started leaking after 1000 kilometers - found the bushings at the bottom of the stanchion and top of the slider were quite worn after changing them and the seals (again) the forks were fine

Gary
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1992 K1100LT
2000 V Star 650/Velorex sidecar
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post #36 of 57 Old Jan 5th, 2012, 9:44 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by gary45
just curious if anyone has ever changed the bushing below the seal - after I changed the seals on the K1100 they started leaking after 1000 kilometers - found the bushings at the bottom of the stanchion and top of the slider were quite worn after changing them and the seals (again) the forks were fine
The top piece is just a wiper, the "bushing" is the seal if I'm understanding you correctly. Normally you can replace the seal and retain the wipers but most folks do everything once they are in there. I'm just doing the seals.

Dan
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post #37 of 57 Old Jan 5th, 2012, 9:55 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by dglenn1
Hi there,

I'm in mid seal replacement. I've got both fork tubes off and am cleaning everything up. I'm noticing that the upper fork tube on the right side (looking forward from the seat) cannot be rotated but the one on the left can spin easily with some resistance. Does this sound right? Should I be concerned about this? Do I need to open up the top and torque the tubes back down or should I leave it alone? Both seals were leaking so I don't think this is causing any issues that I know of.

Thank you,
I don't think it is an issue but I did not even try to rotate mine when I did the one side. They are in a swivel joint at the top so I really don't see an issue. Need a very thin 22mm to tighten them up.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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post #38 of 57 Old Jan 5th, 2012, 10:06 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by dglenn1
The top piece is just a wiper, the "bushing" is the seal if I'm understanding you correctly. Normally you can replace the seal and retain the wipers but most folks do everything once they are in there. I'm just doing the seals.

in one of the pictures you can see the "bush" (realoem.com) which is below the seal, looks exactly like the bushings in the slider and on the end of the stanchion K1100 forks and if worn out slider does not run perfectly in line with the stanchion - excessive gap - seals wear out on one side - bushing is made out of soft material

Gary
2018 R1200RT
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2000 K1200LT
1992 K1100LT
2000 V Star 650/Velorex sidecar
1985 K100RT
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post #39 of 57 Old Jan 5th, 2012, 11:05 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
I don't think it is an issue but I did not even try to rotate mine when I did the one side. They are in a swivel joint at the top so I really don't see an issue. Need a very thin 22mm to tighten them up.
Thanks!

Dan
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post #40 of 57 Old Jan 6th, 2012, 6:33 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by gary45
in one of the pictures you can see the "bush" (realoem.com) which is below the seal, looks exactly like the bushings in the slider and on the end of the stanchion K1100 forks and if worn out slider does not run perfectly in line with the stanchion - excessive gap - seals wear out on one side - bushing is made out of soft material
Well said. If you look at post #3 above you can see the bush just below the seal - looks like it has a copper edge. Mine did not show any signs of wear.

John
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2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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post #41 of 57 Old Feb 12th, 2012, 3:54 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

I replaced my fork seals ('07 K1200LT) from the lower end as photographed, however when I put all back together and op's checked the bike, there was little to no compression on the front end. Is this a bleed air problem? As far as I can see, the bleed air screw and o-ring are directly on top of slider tube, therefore to loosen and bleed the air out, the entire fork slider must be removed from the fork bridge. I don't have the thin 22mm spanner, does anyone know of a source, or a way to bleed the air out, or an idea if this is even the problem?
Thanks!
Mark.
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post #42 of 57 Old Feb 12th, 2012, 5:25 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

There is a hole in the side of the upper tube which rests inside the lower when it has been reinstalled. You should have no resistance except for the last couple of inches when you push the lower back on.


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post #43 of 57 Old Feb 12th, 2012, 6:17 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

you should just have to put the sliders back on, thats all I did with mine, did not worry about air, have had out for a ride since I did them in January

Gary
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post #44 of 57 Old Feb 13th, 2012, 8:04 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swag12
I replaced my fork seals ('07 K1200LT) from the lower end as photographed, however when I put all back together and op's checked the bike, there was little to no compression on the front end. Is this a bleed air problem? As far as I can see, the bleed air screw and o-ring are directly on top of slider tube, therefore to loosen and bleed the air out, the entire fork slider must be removed from the fork bridge. I don't have the thin 22mm spanner, does anyone know of a source, or a way to bleed the air out, or an idea if this is even the problem?
Thanks!
Mark.
There is only 4 inches of travel on the LT front end and that is all controlled but the mono shock - not the forks. Also when sitting static you are halfway through that travel. The front does not dive like a conventional front end. Take her out for a ride.

John
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2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #45 of 57 Old Feb 16th, 2012, 4:04 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

I have revived this thread again for a word of caution to everyone. Several people have indicated they reused their old oil because it looked fine to them. My left fork was leaking badly and the oil reflected that. It was murky looking and obviously needed replaced. The right fork showed no leakage and looking down into the tube the oil looked fine. However when I poured it out there was a good amount of sludge in the bottom of the tube and it was obviously contaminated. So unless you are pouring your oil into a container and inspecting it from top to bottom, replacement is probably a good idea. Also, the teflon coated ring just below the seal pulled right out on mine using just my fingers. This allowed the four plastic sliders to be removed and the inside of the tube cleaned thoroughly. Now it's time for a ride.


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post #46 of 57 Old Feb 16th, 2012, 5:17 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by deanwoolsey
I have revived this thread again for a word of caution to everyone. Several people have indicated they reused their old oil because it looked fine to them. My left fork was leaking badly and the oil reflected that. It was murky looking and obviously needed replaced. The right fork showed no leakage and looking down into the tube the oil looked fine. However when I poured it out there was a good amount of sludge in the bottom of the tube and it was obviously contaminated. So unless you are pouring your oil into a container and inspecting it from top to bottom, replacement is probably a good idea. Also, the teflon coated ring just below the seal pulled right out on mine using just my fingers. This allowed the four plastic sliders to be removed and the inside of the tube cleaned thoroughly. Now it's time for a ride.
+1
a certain amount of moisture and dirt gets in there and I cleaned mine completely as well plus new oil - liter of ATF cheap

Gary
2018 R1200RT
Past rides
2012 K1600GTL
2000 K1200LT
1992 K1100LT
2000 V Star 650/Velorex sidecar
1985 K100RT
1965 R60/2
1960 AJS 500 single
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post #47 of 57 Old May 1st, 2012, 10:23 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swag12
Quote:
I replaced my fork seals ('07 K1200LT)
from the lower end as photographed, however when I put all back together and op's checked the bike, there was little to no compression on the front end. Is this a bleed air problem? As far as I can see, the bleed air screw and o-ring are directly on top of slider tube, therefore to loosen and bleed the air out, the entire fork slider must be removed from the fork bridge. I don't have the thin 22mm spanner, does anyone know of a source, or a way to bleed the air out, or an idea if this is even the problem?
Thanks!
Mark.
Where did you order your seals from and what was the part number? My '06 just started leaking.

Greg and Melanie
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post #48 of 57 Old May 9th, 2012, 11:01 am
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Re: Fork Seal Change

I got the parts in from Daytona BMW and the job was easy thanks to all the help from the forum.

Greg and Melanie
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post #49 of 57 Old Jun 21st, 2012, 1:02 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

So, I am beginning this project this morning and as I leverage the bike up my measurements tell me I am going to be a little short in the angle/height in order to get the lower fixed tube cleared from the inner fork tube and the ground. If I am going to pull the rear wheel to get more height, I am sure I'd rather do it first and brace it at the FD than to get so deep to find out the rear has to come off as well with all the front unbolted. I tried to gauge the difference from the pictures for clearance but am unsure.

Can anyone shed some light please? I'm off to get a 36mm socket and fresh oil, so maybe I'll see a reply by those of you whom have completed this before when I return.

2012 K1600GT

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post #50 of 57 Old Jun 21st, 2012, 2:09 pm
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Re: Fork Seal Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by david_yancey
So, I am beginning this project this morning and as I leverage the bike up my measurements tell me I am going to be a little short in the angle/height in order to get the lower fixed tube cleared from the inner fork tube and the ground. If I am going to pull the rear wheel to get more height, I am sure I'd rather do it first and brace it at the FD than to get so deep to find out the rear has to come off as well with all the front unbolted. I tried to gauge the difference from the pictures for clearance but am unsure.

Can anyone shed some light please? I'm off to get a 36mm socket and fresh oil, so maybe I'll see a reply by those of you whom have completed this before when I return.
I removed the rear wheel when I re-sealed the forks on ole Toad. Pulled the back of bike down with some ratchet straps (bike wuz on a lift so I had anchorage point). Being on a lift, I also C-clamped the centerstand tang to the table.). An alternate way would be to put a hydraulic jack under the oil pan and a piece of lumber and raise the front end and somehow steady the bike from tipping sideways. Good luck.
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