Help on Valve Adjustment - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 5 Old May 6th, 2006, 3:39 pm Thread Starter
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Unhappy Help on Valve Adjustment

OK, The bike sat overnight and I've got all the tupperwear off. Last service (24,000 Miles) both #4 exhaust valves were just in tolerance at .25mm. Now at 36,000 the #4 exhaust valves are just under .25mm, so I need to change the bucket shims. So, I've been following the procedure from the gunsmoke web site and I don't understand the process of inserting the #30 drill to take the cam chain tension off the cam chain. Here is my confusion followed by an an excerpt from the web site:

Confusion #1
I think I found the middle screw plug and removed it. The picture on the web site shows an allen wrench sticking in the hole that I believe is used to remove the tension from the cam chain tensioner, not a #30 drill.

confusion #2
The procedure also says to push down on the lower chain tensioner with a screw driver then place the drill into the hole to secure the tensioner. I cannot budge the lower tensioner and the bike has set overnight. I have already rotated the engine several revolutions during the process of checking the valve clearances. Am I totally missing something here or if I can insert an allen wrench into the hole in the cam chain cover about an inch without pushing on the cam chain tensioner (I can do that now) is the tensioner already retracted?
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Excerpt from Gunsmoke.com

Start by removing the screw plug for the cam chain tensioner in the cam chain cover. You'll see three screw heads in the cover; the one you want is the middle one. Remove it. BMW has a special tool (90 88 6 11 6 740, approximate cost $8) to hold the cam chain tensioner back. I found that the the smooth end of a No. 30 drill bit works as well. What you're doing is pushing down the tensioner far enough so that the smooth end of the drill bit engages a groove machined into the tensioner. With the drill in the groove, the tensioner isn't pushing on the cam chain and you'll have enough slack to remove the sprockets form the cams. You'll need to insert the drill into a hole in the tensioner body just larger than the drill, so you might have to feel around a bit with the drill to find the hole. When it first starts into the hole it will probably hit the side of the tensioner until the tensioner is depressed far enough for the drill to pass into the groove.Use a screwdriver to push down on the lower cam chain guide, then insert the drill until it will go in about an inch. If it won't go that far, rotate the engine to pump oil out of the cam chain tensioner. It might take 10 or 20 engine revolutions to accomplish this, although when my bike sat overnight i didn't need to move the engine at all. The picture at right shows the cam chain tensioner when viewed from the inside of the cam chain cover (you can't see this from outside the bike!). Click the picture to get an enlarged view with the groove and drill labeled.
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Joe Buttress
Plain Washington
2003 LTE
IBA SS
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post #2 of 5 Old May 6th, 2006, 4:26 pm
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After leaving it over night it prolly has bled off some. I've never encountered any resistance with the insertion and have never left them, pushed down on them, nor had to rotate the engine.

You're good to go. Insert that baby and have at it.

Kinda scary the first time, huh? After you do it, you'll be a popular boy and your time will drop quickly with adjusting your bud's.



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post #3 of 5 Old May 6th, 2006, 6:08 pm
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Talking Here's my take

Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
Kinda scary the first time, huh? After you do it, you'll be a popular boy and your time will drop quickly with adjusting your bud's.
I've always found it to be beneficial to perform a new procedure on your BUD's bike FIRST - then you won't make the same mistake(s) on your own!
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post #4 of 5 Old May 6th, 2006, 6:26 pm
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You have to use a big screwdriver or something to push the chain tensioner down. It does not move fast, and you have to hold the pressure on it for a little while until the oil bleeds out of the tensioner and allows it to move down.

Anything that is about 1/8"-3MM in size that will fit through the hole will work, I used a tool I made that looks like the BMW tool, out of 1/8" stainless steel rod. Picture attached.

The tensioner has to be down far enough to allow the tool to slip in past a groove in the tensioner piston, so that when the chain sprockets are removed from the cams the spring in the tensioner piston does not push the tensioner out, as that would make putting the sprockets back on very difficult.
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Last edited by dshealey; May 6th, 2006 at 11:18 pm.
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post #5 of 5 Old May 6th, 2006, 10:47 pm Thread Starter
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Smile I'm Smilling Now

I appreciate the help. Sometimes you just need a little bit of reassurance from someone who knows. Thanks guys for the help, I appreciate it.

I swapped out the #4 exhaust shim buckets from 2.80mm to 2.70mm. Now my clearance on both #4 exhaust valves is a safe 2.79mm. David, I did use a large screw driver and I could feel the oil bleeding out of the tensioner, then I inserted a drill bit, worked wonderfully. Cam chain sprockets were a piece of cake to get back on.

Joe Buttress
Plain Washington
2003 LTE
IBA SS
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