Newbie here. I have heard good things about this board, and like what I've seen so far. I am considering purchasing a 99' LT. I own a GS (that I love) but because my job affords me the opportunity to spend a good deal of time on my bike (aprox. 150 miles a day) I find myself wanting a bit more weather protection (live in Wi., for now) then the GS allows. Honestly I know nothing about "K bikes" aside from a short period on a K75s about 8 years ago. I am very comfortable doing my own maintenance and repairs on my "R bike" as well as my wifes and my own cars (I have a well stocked tool box and I know how to use it!) I guess my question is what should I look for in this model? how envolved is the maintenance? any years to avoid? what is a fair price for a used LT relvant to mileage? and whats the first big ticket item that I will need to replace? Sorry if I was a bit long winded.
Newbie here. I have heard good things about this board, and like what I've seen so far. I am considering purchasing a 98' LT. I own a GS (that I love) but because my job affords me the opportunity to spend a good deal of time on my bike (aprox. 150 miles a day) I find myself wanting a bit more weather protection (live in Wi., for now) then the GS allows. Honestly I know nothing about "K bikes" aside from a short period on a K75s about 8 years ago. I am very comfortable doing my own maintenance and repairs on my "R bike" as well as my wifes and my own cars (I have a well stocked tool box and I know how to use it!) I guess my question is what should I look for in this model? how envolved is the maintenance? any years to avoid? what is a fair price for a used LT relvant to mileage? and whats the first big ticket item that I will need to replace? Sorry if I was a bit long winded.
The LT is a LOT smoother riding than the K75, and certainly more powerful.
1999 was the first year of the LT, not '98. There were only a couple issues on the 99-00 that would need to be checked out. The early '99s had a radio software problem that caused them to sometimes drain the battery even when turned off. Dealer should have the service bulletin that tells how to check the software version in the radio.
From introduction till mid '00 production date, there was sometimes a hot hesitation on throttle opening around 2500-3500 RPM when the outside air is above 85 deg. F, fixed with a different Motronic that had a secondary injection map selectable by either removing the Cat Code plug on the earlier ones, and "cutting the brown wire" in the later ones. If the one you are looking at still has the early Motronic, the newer one may be hard to get now. One "fix" in that case is to remove the plug from the air box temp sensor, but when you do that you have to be sure to use premium fuel in high temps.
How many miles on the bike? If anywhere near 50,000 I would automatically replace the clutch slave cylinder, and drill the drain hole many of us have done to prevent slave failure from taking out the clutch due to fluid contamination. (Three were done just this past weekend at two "service parties")
Also, it seems that a wise move is to get the new "17 ball" final drive bearing and seal and replace those. The two biggest failures we have are the clutch slave and the final drive bearing.
Other than that, a '99 is a fine bike, not all that much different than anything up to the '05. Power ABS brakes were introduced in '02, but the previous ABS brakes are still amazingly good compared to any other tourer on the market. Squealy back brakes being the main complaint, but can almost be eliminated with EBC rear pads.
If you get a good one for a good price, replace the rear bearing and slave cylinder and ride the heck out of it! The other items are only relatively minor annoyances, IF they exist on the bike.
Welcome, and I think that I can address a couple of things in your post. First, I don't believe that BMW made ANY LT's in '98. K12LT's first model year was '99, and think that they made the K11LT after the '96 model year. So your search for a '98 K12LT might be a long one!
I would say that the maintenance on a K12LT is a little more laborsome than on your GS just due to the need to remove the tupperware more often. This remains a challenge to me as I have not done it as often as on my RT, so it is not as intuitive to me yet. But to access some things, it certainly takes a lot more time than removing the one panel on a GS, or even lifting the fuel tank!
Use the search function to get some ideas on pricing. Also good to look at completed auctions on eBay, and look through the past classified ads on this site to see (at least) where asking prices started.
One of the biggest issues with the early K12LT's is the bearing going out in the final drive. Do a search on this. I think that this was rectified with a use of a different bearing from the factory from the '03 models on.
What should you look for in this model? I would say FARKLES! If they are not already there, then you will need to pay for and install them. Any extra lighting is welcome, whether it is aux lights or (preferably) HIDs. Intercoms are great for 2-up rides. Accessory footpegs for longer rides (various varieties available). Custom saddles are always a welcome addition. As well as a backrest for the driver. Shelves are almost mandatory, and it is best if they come stocked with securely mounted GPS and/or radar detector units. Headlight covers are nice if you don't want to replace an expensive factory piece. Many prefer the aftermarket windscreens.
Go for the 99 and up K1200LT not the earlier K1100LTs, big difference.
A lot of good deals on the 99s out there.
I had a 87 K100 for my first BMW.
Nice but no ABS, had heat problem, wife didn't like it, too buzzy, other than that...It made me want a better BMW.
Thank to all that replied so far. to correct my original post the bike is indeed a 99', my mistake. also 40k on the clock, asking price is around 8k (negotiable) and the bike is a trade in at my wifes work(Honda/Suzuki dealership)
My personal opinion is that you should look for an '01 or newer. An '02 with less than 20K would even be better. And I bet if you're patient, you'd still be under $10K with a lot better/newer of a bike.
My attitude is a bit different then many on this board. By the time you finish replacing the parts mentioned (ie the ball bearing complement for the rear end, clutch slave cylinder, and the other work, the parts and labor would add additional cost to the purchase price. I don't know what your time and aggrevation is worth, but my time and aggrevation is worth alot to me. I would much rather spend my time riding the bike then working on it.
My point is, for a few thousand more (and I have seen some running in the 11K range or less), you can pick up a low mileage '03 with all the changes made, a CD player or maybe even a 6 disk and more with lower mileage and potentially warrenty left which will facilitate the purchase of an extended warranty as well. You will also get the linked servo assisted abs brakes, etc.
That would be my choice. It was, and I did. I don't regret it for a second.
I would stay away from the '99 unless it was meticulously maintained and was an LTC or better with lots of farkles.. for a few thousand more you can find... (I'll agree not so convenient ) a '01 or newer for a few thousand $ more with a lot less miles.. putting 150 miles a day you will start to run into high milage and even though high mileage is not a big issue with these bikes they must be maintained very well.. your maintenance cycles starting closer to zero will help.
99s did not come with the engine/trany crash pan. If it does not have the heated seats, it won’t have a wiring harness for heated seats. The stock starter relay will weld shut if the battery voltage drops to low.
My dealer replaced my relay, on an 00, along with the throttle cable, and rear disc brake, under warranty. Plus, BMW gave me a free crash pan. I also had to have the defective program chip replaced to get the engine to run correctly in warm wx.
Make sure there isn’t any oil seepage in between the engine and trany. Can be very expensive to replace the rear engine seal, or trany seal.
Bob
Just about any used bike will have lost the initial depreciation,, the 2003 or 2005 would be what I would look for...They have the latest brakes, no rear end problems, the 05 has a new style dash in it.....Look at all the options on the bike, there are several that can be added at the factory.....
Take your time look and when that one bike starts talking to you you'll know its time to buy!! .............Regards Pete
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