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post #1 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 8:27 am Thread Starter
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Preemptive clutch repair?

I have an 05 LT with 23,000 miles. Other than a bad speed sensor which causes the stop and start syndrome while reversing, the bike is in perfect working order. No repairs up to this point have been required.

I visit this website at least once everyday to gather as much information as possible to help me have a better understanding of my bike.

I'm well aware of the more common problems such as tranny bearings/seals, slave cylinder and FD issues, clutch...etc.

The clutch issue is of particular concern to me. Am I correct in assuming that the "oil on the clutch" issue is not so much a rear main seal failure, but is more often a result of the O-ring that is between the thrust ring and the clutch housing failing?

My question to those who are experienced with this... and are able to offer an informed opinion... would you find it prudent to preemptively replace this O-ring with the Viton O-ring prior to a failure? My thinking is that by doing this prior to a failure, the remaining associated pieces would be saved from being ruined, thus saving me a sizable chunk of change. I'm thinking that weep holes at this time would be a good idea also.

A co-worker of mine bought a brand new 1200GT a few years ago. I'm thinking it was in 05. From that time up until 2011 he managed to rack up just over 900 miles. Not a typo...only 900 miles. The bike sat in the garage alot. When he decided to trade it on a Harley, the dealer found that the clutch was slipping. The dealer took it in trade anyway... at a reduced price and had it repaired. The problem turned out to be that O-ring. So...in that case it wasn't a wear issue so much as an age issue. I'm thinking that a high percentage of the original O-rings deteriorate with age and are doomed to failure at some point.

Prudent? or no?

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post #2 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 8:36 am
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

If it ain't broke........

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post #3 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 10:40 am
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

agree with Tony, also a car mechanic told me many decades ago that slipping the clutch makes enough heat in the flywheel etc to destroy the seals so altho age will eventually cause failure how you drive it will cause problems with all the seals close to the clutch

Gary
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post #4 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 1:37 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

I've been thinking about a preemptive strike also but have decided instead to collect all the tools necessary to do the job when the time comes. I am holding off buying seals and parts since I have no idea when this will occur and I want fresh seals etc. Who knows, maybe being prepared will keep the problems away but with my luck I doubt it.

Robert

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
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2000 K1200LT "Latifah"
1994 R1100RSL (wife's)
1981 R80GS
1976 R90S
1965 R80/2 Frankenbike (wife's)
2001 Bunkhouse LX (given to son)
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post #5 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 1:55 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scouter-50
I've been thinking about a preemptive strike also but have decided instead to collect all the tools necessary to do the job when the time comes. I am holding off buying seals and parts since I have no idea when this will occur and I want fresh seals etc. Who knows, maybe being prepared will keep the problems away but with my luck I doubt it.

Robert
I'm thinking that absent from oil leaking and contaminating everything in the bell housing, the parts that get contaminated are durable if kept free of oil contamination. Sooo...preempting the source of the contamination should allow the rest of the components to fully live out their service life.

For the cost of one seal (O-ring) I can save the cost of all the parts and pieces ($700) that would need to be replaced if I waited for the inevitable.

Calling Charley VT and the Mechanic Extraordinaire!

Scouter...you need to color in Florida on your map. Riding season is about to start here!

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post #6 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 2:25 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FatStrat
I have an 05 LT with 23,000 miles. Other than a bad speed sensor which causes the stop and start syndrome while reversing, the bike is in perfect working order. No repairs up to this point have been required.

I visit this website at least once everyday to gather as much information as possible to help me have a better understanding of my bike.

I'm well aware of the more common problems such as tranny bearings/seals, slave cylinder and FD issues, clutch...etc.

The clutch issue is of particular concern to me. Am I correct in assuming that the "oil on the clutch" issue is not so much a rear main seal failure, but is more often a result of the O-ring that is between the thrust ring and the clutch housing failing?

My question to those who are experienced with this... and are able to offer an informed opinion... would you find it prudent to preemptively replace this O-ring with the Viton O-ring prior to a failure? My thinking is that by doing this prior to a failure, the remaining associated pieces would be saved from being ruined, thus saving me a sizable chunk of change. I'm thinking that weep holes at this time would be a good idea also.

A co-worker of mine bought a brand new 1200GT a few years ago. I'm thinking it was in 05. From that time up until 2011 he managed to rack up just over 900 miles. Not a typo...only 900 miles. The bike sat in the garage alot. When he decided to trade it on a Harley, the dealer found that the clutch was slipping. The dealer took it in trade anyway... at a reduced price and had it repaired. The problem turned out to be that O-ring. So...in that case it wasn't a wear issue so much as an age issue. I'm thinking that a high percentage of the original O-rings deteriorate with age and are doomed to failure at some point.

Prudent? or no?
This is too big a job to do preemptively. My clutch just started to slip and it does not leave you stranded. That is the only reason I would do a preemptive repair. I am collecting parts and tools now and will ride the rest of the season and do the repair during the winter. I have just shy of 39,000 miles. I would just ride it and do an occasional high gear full throttle test to check for slippage.

Once you first detect slippage, start planning your repair. That's my opinion and it is worth every penny you paid for it!

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post #7 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 2:55 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FatStrat
I'm thinking that absent from oil leaking and contaminating everything in the bell housing, the parts that get contaminated are durable if kept free of oil contamination. Sooo...preempting the source of the contamination should allow the rest of the components to fully live out their service life.

For the cost of one seal (O-ring) I can save the cost of all the parts and pieces ($700) that would need to be replaced if I waited for the inevitable.

Calling Charley VT and the Mechanic Extraordinaire!

Scouter...you need to color in Florida on your map. Riding season is about to start here!
I was within 15 miles of the border while riding my new to me LT that i picked up in New York and didn't realize it 'til I got home. Oh well, another time.

Robert

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin (1706 - 1790)


2000 K1200LT "Latifah"
1994 R1100RSL (wife's)
1981 R80GS
1976 R90S
1965 R80/2 Frankenbike (wife's)
2001 Bunkhouse LX (given to son)
2011 Bunkhouse Queen

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post #8 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 3:05 pm
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Talking Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Here is another opinion on a pre-emptive clutch oil ring.

I just removed the clutch from my 2003 K1200lt with 150,000 miles on it.

Original slave..........no leaks but did have the Dealer drill the famous hole.

Clutch was dry as a bone. And the "O" ring was hard as a rock and came apart when I pulled that part of the clutch off of the engine shaft. Way back when, I noticed oil seeping under the bike between the engine and the intermediate housing, so I did use a sealer in the engine oil that tended to slow that down. Clutch has never slipped.

I'd vote "NO" to pre-emptive work cause it might just never slip.

Guess maybe some folks just want to have something to do. ME? I RIDE!

Just another opinion.
Vern


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Bought used K1200LT number 3. This one is green/teal with 31,369(now 7/29/2018 54,143) miles and is an '02. The first 2 bikes made it to near 150,000 miles.
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Due to heart health, the Dr says not to ride under 40 degree air temp. Ugh! Now it is harder to get my 18000 miles a year in just in the summer. Guess that stopped my 20 degree rides now.
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78 years young!
04 Honda Reflex.....Hers (it mostly sits)
Converted HD rider.
Love this LT bike and still waiting for my first speeding ticket. LOL
Vern
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post #9 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 3:47 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vernvernvern
Here is another opinion on a pre-emptive clutch oil ring.

I just removed the clutch from my 2003 K1200lt with 150,000 miles on it.

Original slave..........no leaks but did have the Dealer drill the famous hole.

Clutch was dry as a bone. And the "O" ring was hard as a rock and came apart when I pulled that part of the clutch off of the engine shaft. Way back when, I noticed oil seeping under the bike between the engine and the intermediate housing, so I did use a sealer in the engine oil that tended to slow that down. Clutch has never slipped.

I'd vote "NO" to pre-emptive work cause it might just never slip.

Guess maybe some folks just want to have something to do. ME? I RIDE!

Just another opinion.
Vern
Vern...when the dealer drilled the weep hole for the slave...did he do it with the slave in place or was the swingarm and slave removed?

Just today I've been studying up on clutch repairs and was going through a thread where someone described oil residue on the right leg of the center stand. Hmmmm? I've noticed that on my bike lately. Fellow said that he found it to be the output shaft seal on the tranny. Just came in from the garage. Yup. Output shaft seal. Will this oil leak down into swingarm?

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post #10 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 4:36 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

I am with Matt on this one - too big a job to do a preemptive on just an o-ring. Usually if it does go the only thing you will have to replace due to that is the clutch disk itself. Mine was hard and there was a small amount of oil seepage but it was my clutch technique while pulling a trailer that really shortened the life of the disc. Clutch # 2 has suffered two 6 K trips now with a full trailer (the last one was two up) and not a whimper out of her in the last 50 K miles.

John
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2009 R1200GS (Gone)
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2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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post #11 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 5:18 pm
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Talking Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FatStrat
Vern...when the dealer drilled the weep hole for the slave...did he do it with the slave in place or was the swingarm and slave removed?

Just today I've been studying up on clutch repairs and was going through a thread where someone described oil residue on the right leg of the center stand. Hmmmm? I've noticed that on my bike lately. Fellow said that he found it to be the output shaft seal on the tranny. Just came in from the garage. Yup. Output shaft seal. Will this oil leak down into swingarm?

Yep, the slave was in place with nothing removed from the bike. When I recently removed the slave during my tear down for parts selling on Ebay, I noticed they(Dealer) actually hit the end of the slave with their drill. It wasn't far enough in on the slave to damage the seal as I never did add any fluid to the slave during use.


Yep, I'd say you may begin to see oil inside the boot at the FD as it is down hill from the output seal on the tranny.


Now, that fix is much much easier than the output seal of the engine. LOL


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Bought used K1200LT number 3. This one is green/teal with 31,369(now 7/29/2018 54,143) miles and is an '02. The first 2 bikes made it to near 150,000 miles.
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Due to heart health, the Dr says not to ride under 40 degree air temp. Ugh! Now it is harder to get my 18000 miles a year in just in the summer. Guess that stopped my 20 degree rides now.
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78 years young!
04 Honda Reflex.....Hers (it mostly sits)
Converted HD rider.
Love this LT bike and still waiting for my first speeding ticket. LOL
Vern
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post #12 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 6:01 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vernvernvern
Yep, the slave was in place with nothing removed from the bike. When I recently removed the slave during my tear down for parts selling on Ebay, I noticed they(Dealer) actually hit the end of the slave with their drill. It wasn't far enough in on the slave to damage the seal as I never did add any fluid to the slave during use.


Yep, I'd say you may begin to see oil inside the boot at the FD as it is down hill from the output seal on the tranny.


Now, that fix is much much easier than the output seal of the engine. LOL

Well...guess I'll get familiar with removing the swing arm. Been studying up on that tranny output seal and what all is involved. I'm thinking that I'll disassemble what needs to come off, pull the slave and inspect the bearing and seal. Pull the rod and check for tranny lube. Drill the weep hole, buy parts and reassemble.

I don't have the socket with the cutout for torquing the swingarm pivots. I saw a youtube video of some Eastern European guy that torqued the outside nut to spec, indexed a mark on the nut to a mark on the frame, loosened the nut and then torqued the inside pivot to spec. While holding the inside pivot in place with an allen wrench, using a box wrench he brought the outside jam nut to allign the marks he made earlier. Looked like it would work. Do you guys see a problem with this method?

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post #13 of 30 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 8:06 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FatStrat
Well...guess I'll get familiar with removing the swing arm. Been studying up on that tranny output seal and what all is involved. I'm thinking that I'll disassemble what needs to come off, pull the slave and inspect the bearing and seal. Pull the rod and check for tranny lube. Drill the weep hole, buy parts and reassemble.

I don't have the socket with the cutout for torquing the swingarm pivots. I saw a youtube video of some Eastern European guy that torqued the outside nut to spec, indexed a mark on the nut to a mark on the frame, loosened the nut and then torqued the inside pivot to spec. While holding the inside pivot in place with an allen wrench, using a box wrench he brought the outside jam nut to allign the marks he made earlier. Looked like it would work. Do you guys see a problem with this method?
I still have a few of the cutout 30 mm sockets for sell. PM me if you want one.

Dave Selvig
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2000 Canon Red LT



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post #14 of 30 Old Sep 17th, 2013, 8:06 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Sitting in the garage, still grubby from drilling the weep hole and replacing the tranny output shaft seal.

JZieler...Wrencher Extraordinare...couldn't have done it without you. Had the laptop playing the video... following along. Piece of cake.

The BMW shop in Daytona didn't have the seal in stock. Said that there were only six of them in their system (in the country?) and that it would take at least a week to get it in. Instead, I went over to the local bearing and seal store and bought a SKF brand 24x40x7 ($4.87) and put that in. The extra .03 of depth didn't stop it from seating properly. Went in right to spec. I noticed that the SKF didn't have the directional sipes on the seal surface. Hope that it doesn't cause a problem. All that's left to do is ride and watch and see if this aftermarket seal holds up.

FS

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post #15 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 7:11 am Thread Starter
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

After a good night sleep, I woke up reflecting on the weep hole drilling and shaft seal replacement that I did yesterday. I have a couple of suggestions that might make it easier for the next guy.

First, the jig that John Z fabricated to secure the FD for removal and install is invaluable. Reassembly would have been near impossible without it. I suggest that everyone who is going to remove the FD for any reason, study the video and make one.

Disassembly was straight forward. Fast forward to reassembly

After getting the drive shaft clicked onto the transmission output shaft... I aligned the driveshaft u-joint bearing cups horizontal to the ground... I then went to the back of the drive shaft / swingarm and scribed a mark, bottom dead center inside the swing arm housing with a felt marker and then lightly struck a corresponding mark on the end of the driveshaft with a center punch. If the driveshaft gets rotated in the process of struggling with the FD install, it is a simple matter to realign the shaft using the two marks.

Sliding the FD into the driveshaft wasn't as smooth as I hoped it would be. It did slide on twice but, it slid onto the wrong spline. I made a change in procedure by shifting the transmission into neutral. I was able to start the FD into the driveshaft to the point that the splines were engaged. If I turned the the rotor on the FD, the FD spline and driveshaft turned together, maintaining timing of the u-joints. As the components were turning, with pressure from me pushing the FD forward, the shaft and FD spline were aligning themselves with every rotation until they simply slid together.

I don't know if any of this is accepted procedure...but it worked for me. If you're struggling with reassembly in this area... give it a try. I strongly suggest indexing the rear of the driveshaft to a mark inside the swing arm to ensure maintaining proper alignment of the driveshaft u-joints.

FS

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Last edited by FatStrat; Sep 18th, 2013 at 7:20 am.
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post #16 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 8:30 am
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

has anyone figured out how to drill the hole without complete disassembly yet? honestly it should not be that hard to get the exact location on the outside and use a depth collar to keep from drilling in too far.

Currently riding a 2003 K1200LTC
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post #17 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 11:07 am
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by timgray
has anyone figured out how to drill the hole without complete disassembly yet? honestly it should not be that hard to get the exact location on the outside and use a depth collar to keep from drilling in too far.
I wouldn't mind this info either.

Robert

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin (1706 - 1790)


2000 K1200LT "Latifah"
1994 R1100RSL (wife's)
1981 R80GS
1976 R90S
1965 R80/2 Frankenbike (wife's)
2001 Bunkhouse LX (given to son)
2011 Bunkhouse Queen

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post #18 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 11:49 am Thread Starter
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by timgray
has anyone figured out how to drill the hole without complete disassembly yet? honestly it should not be that hard to get the exact location on the outside and use a depth collar to keep from drilling in too far.
I had thought along that same line in the past. Now that I have done this job and have had a first hand look at the workings from the inside, I have an observation that you might want to consider before you attempt doing this without disassembly.

The bore that the slave cylinder slides into on the back of the transmission case is only slightly deeper than the reach of the slave cylinder body. That leaves very little room for error. If you're drilling up through the case and the tip of the drill emerges under the slave...you could possibly drill a hole in the slave. If you're off target in the other direction you could possibly drill through the seal.

Maybe someone out there has a sure fire easier method. From my point of view, the pitfall of missing the target when drilling could cause big headaches.

My $.02

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Last edited by FatStrat; Sep 18th, 2013 at 11:55 am.
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post #19 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 12:16 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

The parts are in the exact same location on every bike, so if someone had accurate measurements it could be repeated by others easily without causing damage.

Heck if someone would be willing to press some FIMO clay into the bottom to take an impression of the hole and the bottom, it could be baked and create a "drill jig" that can be copied and reproduced to make it exceptionally simple for others to easily drill that hole without disassembling the bike.

Currently riding a 2003 K1200LTC
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post #20 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 12:34 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FatStrat
The BMW shop in Daytona didn't have the seal in stock. Said that there were only six of them in their system (in the country?) and that it would take at least a week to get it in. Instead, I went over to the local bearing and seal store and bought a SKF brand 24x40x7 ($4.87) and put that in. The extra .03 of depth didn't stop it from seating properly. Went in right to spec. I noticed that the SKF didn't have the directional sipes on the seal surface. Hope that it doesn't cause a problem. All that's left to do is ride and watch and see if this aftermarket seal holds up.

FS
I have been using a similar seal now for some time on all my tranny repairs, mine had double lips. Seems to do a better job. Depth of install is very important (now he tells me..). Hope you meant 25 x 40 x 7 and not 24 x 40 x 7.
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John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #21 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 12:53 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by timgray
The parts are in the exact same location on every bike, so if someone had accurate measurements it could be repeated by others easily without causing damage.

Heck if someone would be willing to press some FIMO clay into the bottom to take an impression of the hole and the bottom, it could be baked and create a "drill jig" that can be copied and reproduced to make it exceptionally simple for others to easily drill that hole without disassembling the bike.

Sounds possible. We just need one of the engineering types who hang around here dispensing valuable knowledge to those who are not as enlightened, to do this.

It wouldn't have helped in my case. The primary concern was the transmission seal. Drilled the slave because it was convenient with all the stuff out of the way

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post #22 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 1:45 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
I have been using a similar seal now for some time on all my tranny repairs, mine had double lips. Seems to do a better job. Depth of install is very important (now he tells me..). Hope you meant 25 x 40 x 7 and not 24 x 40 x 7.
Had to pound that sucker on with my trusty ball peen and chisel! Just kidding! It was a 25x40x7. Yea...it was a typo with the four and five being so close together and all. The brand was SKF. Part# 9725. If there are any problems with this seal I'll let you know.




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post #23 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 6:08 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

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Originally Posted by timgray
has anyone figured out how to drill the hole without complete disassembly yet? honestly it should not be that hard to get the exact location on the outside and use a depth collar to keep from drilling in too far.
It is hard enough for me to drill the hole while looking for the end to start breaking through. When the angle is off just a hair it is too easy to drill into the seal. Sometimes when the angle is off I have to stop before the bit breaks all of the way through. Your are drilling on the outside of a cast housing & they do vary some.

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post #24 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 6:39 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

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It is hard enough for me to drill the hole while looking for the end to start breaking through. When the angle is off just a hair it is too easy to drill into the seal. Sometimes when the angle is off I have to stop before the bit breaks all of the way through. Your are drilling on the outside of a cast housing & they do vary some.
A simple jig would fix that, I Used them all the time back when I restored sports cars, a simple metal block that you drill with a drill press first forces the drill to be straight, then you simply set a collar on the drill at the right depth and it makes it impossible to drill too far. granted most people don't have a narrow right angle drill, so they will have to lay the bike on it's tip over bars to get their cordless deck drill to fit under there. But if done carefully would be perfectly fine.

Buddy of mine would use a metal punch when he worked on Triumph engines, "Eh right about there" and put the punch on the casing and tap it with a hammer to make a weep hole to auto oil the chain with the engine oil.

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post #25 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 8:04 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FatStrat
Had to pound that sucker on with my trusty ball peen and chisel! Just kidding! It was a 25x40x7. Yea...it was a typo with the four and five being so close together and all. The brand was SKF. Part# 9725. If there are any problems with this seal I'll let you know.
I saw one of those - it has a metal body and a really thin sealing lip. I would not use it but that is my preference. I like the rubber covered seals. But keep me posted as to how it seals up as they seem to be easier than the others to get. May start using them.

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post #26 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 8:17 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by timgray
A simple jig would fix that, I Used them all the time back when I restored sports cars, a simple metal block that you drill with a drill press first forces the drill to be straight, then you simply set a collar on the drill at the right depth and it makes it impossible to drill too far. granted most people don't have a narrow right angle drill, so they will have to lay the bike on it's tip over bars to get their cordless deck drill to fit under there. But if done carefully would be perfectly fine.

Buddy of mine would use a metal punch when he worked on Triumph engines, "Eh right about there" and put the punch on the casing and tap it with a hammer to make a weep hole to auto oil the chain with the engine oil.
Being the Devils advocate...look back to Verns post (post#11). Looks like the dealers mechanic came real close to blowing it. The target area is tiny...I mean small!

I'm thinking that if the slave cylinder is made of a harder material than the transmission casing... like cast iron... if the drill skids off of the end of the slave...the drill is going to walk through the less dense transmission case towards the seal (ever try to drill out a steel bolt broken off in aluminum?). Like I said earlier.."If you miss the target you're going to create some headaches". Don't get me wrong Tim, it's a worthy concept. It should work if a competent person would take up the challenge, design and test this thing. Until then... at this point ...the only safe way that I see is conventional.

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post #27 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 8:21 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
I saw one of those - it has a metal body and a really thin sealing lip. I would not use it but that is my preference. I like the rubber covered seals. But keep me posted as to how it seals up as they seem to be easier than the others to get. May start using them.
I find that this seal having a thin coating of sealing material around the circumference as opposed to the thicker rubber material, allows the seal to press into bore true. I find that the rubber can cant. I like to stick with what works for me. Like you...just my preference.
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post #28 of 30 Old Sep 18th, 2013, 8:53 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

This one just rubbed the seal when it broke through.
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post #29 of 30 Old Sep 19th, 2013, 9:22 am
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

That is the single best photo I have ever seen of drilling the weep hole. Thanks!

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post #30 of 30 Old Sep 19th, 2013, 7:53 pm
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Re: Preemptive clutch repair?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FatStrat
I find that this seal having a thin coating of sealing material around the circumference as opposed to the thicker rubber material, allows the seal to press into bore true. I find that the rubber can cant. I like to stick with what works for me. Like you...just my preference.
If there is a problem...you'll be the second one to know.
Good technique. I have an installation tool I made on a lathe that nails it every time. I made it after I had to pull a tranny apart twice because the stock seal didn't go in straight.

I think I still have one in the shop I will try your install on the next one!

John
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2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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