I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 43 Old Sep 5th, 2013, 7:54 pm Thread Starter
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I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

It was supposed to be a simple matter for tonight to just set the new valve buckets in place, reinstall the bearing caps and camshafts, install the sprockets, turn the engine, recheck valve clearances and call it a night.

But something went wrong when I torqued the very first bearing cap into place. I carefully set my torque wrench to a mere 10 nM and tightened. And tightened and tightened. Then I heard the snap. It's a quiet sound but still rings in my ears.

The threaded post snapped. Scratching my head as to how it could have happened. All I can think of is that the torque wrench malfunctioned. It's a month old.

At any rate, it appears that the threaded post is merely screwed into the head but I'm wondering if there's loctite on there that would require me to heat it before removal? Is there some suggested way to remove it? I doubt that my dealer stocks these things so I'll be researching the part number to call them before I drive the 20 miles over there to pick up a replacement.

Guidance appreciated.
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-Richard S.
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post #2 of 43 Old Sep 5th, 2013, 10:12 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

A good pair of vice grips will be fine to remove the stud. Nothing special about the stud it is a metric M6 x 50 stud. Should find it at a good hardware store if your dealer does not have it.

Are you sure you had it set to 10 Nm and not 10 ft lbs? 10 Nm is just a hair past snug.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
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post #3 of 43 Old Sep 5th, 2013, 10:40 pm
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+1 on the vice grips. I would stay away from using an Easy Out as it may leave shavings which have no business in there.

I can sympathize having twisted off the head of the oil filter cover. Confused the Nm with the foot pounds. That oil change was my first on the big girl and a little more expensive that I anticipated.

My friends Dad always said "if you ain't messin up, you ain't trying hard enough".
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post #4 of 43 Old Sep 5th, 2013, 11:05 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

What torque wrench do you have?

In a weak moment in Harbor Freight some time ago, I got one of those that read out digitally in all modes... decided to try it out in the bench vice with an old 2 stroke head from the Husky days. Thing sheared it off and like you, it wasn't even close. Made in China it said and when I looked with a magnifying glass at the very fine print... it was a picture of some little guys just laughing their ass off!

Five mile trip back to HF and I had my folding money back in my pocket and they had a torque wrench marked defective.

Lesson learned here and luckily is wasn't learned the hard way as most of mine usually are.

Take care.

Tommy
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post #5 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 3:33 am Thread Starter
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Searched and re-searched this site last night and found one other thread on this topic. It was from three years ago and it confirmed that the stud bolts are loctited in there.

I pulled out the propane torch and applied heat for what seemed like ten minutes. Even with vice grips, the stud wouldn't budge. I held back and didn't muscle it for fear of hearing what remains of the stud bolt snap off. Will try again tonight (when I'm in a better mood).

For the record, I used a Pittsburgh torque wrench bought via Amazon.com. It was set properly for 10 nm. The markings for foot pounds on it are in increments of 10. The nm markings are increments of .7, with .7 (the lowest setting on the scale) indicating 7 nm. To get an accurate setting on the nm scale requires a bit of thinking(I.e., multiply by ten, then each marking increments by 5/7s of a nm) so it's hard to confuse nM with foot pounds. I've used it before without problems, backed it off when storing, etc. I'll have to research calibrating it before I trust it next time.

-Richard S.
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post #6 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 3:55 am Thread Starter
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Correction: each marking on the torque wrench handle is 7/5ths of a nm, not 5/7ths.

Good thing I completed fifth grade math!

-Richard S.
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post #7 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 7:46 am
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Pittsburgh is the brand I got at Harbor Fright

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Cool Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddyTelco
Pittsburgh is the brand I got at Harbor Fright
+1! That is the brand that HF carries.

John

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post #9 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 10:41 am
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Quote:
Originally Posted by howles
Searched and re-searched this site last night and found one other thread on this topic. It was from three years ago and it confirmed that the stud bolts are loctited in there.

I pulled out the propane torch and applied heat for what seemed like ten minutes. Even with vice grips, the stud wouldn't budge. I held back and didn't muscle it for fear of hearing what remains of the stud bolt snap off. Will try again tonight (when I'm in a better mood).

For the record, I used a Pittsburgh torque wrench bought via Amazon.com. It was set properly for 10 nm. The markings for foot pounds on it are in increments of 10. The nm markings are increments of .7, with .7 (the lowest setting on the scale) indicating 7 nm. To get an accurate setting on the nm scale requires a bit of thinking(I.e., multiply by ten, then each marking increments by 5/7s of a nm) so it's hard to confuse nM with foot pounds. I've used it before without problems, backed it off when storing, etc. I'll have to research calibrating it before I trust it next time.
I do not think a propane torch will be hot enough on something large, I have a B tank with a turbo torch and it will heat things up fast, almost as hot as oxy acetylene, do you know any plumbers they will have one
it is also possible that since the stud broke off so easily it was over torqued in the factory and may be very tight, hope it comes out.

Gary
2018 R1200RT
Past rides
2012 K1600GTL
2000 K1200LT
1992 K1100LT
2000 V Star 650/Velorex sidecar
1985 K100RT
1965 R60/2
1960 AJS 500 single
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post #10 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 12:16 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howles
It was supposed to be a simple matter for tonight to just set the new valve buckets in place, reinstall the bearing caps and camshafts, install the sprockets, turn the engine, recheck valve clearances and call it a night.

But something went wrong when I torqued the very first bearing cap into place. I carefully set my torque wrench to a mere 10 nM and tightened. And tightened and tightened. Then I heard the snap. It's a quiet sound but still rings in my ears.

The threaded post snapped. Scratching my head as to how it could have happened. All I can think of is that the torque wrench malfunctioned. It's a month old.

At any rate, it appears that the threaded post is merely screwed into the head but I'm wondering if there's loctite on there that would require me to heat it before removal? Is there some suggested way to remove it? I doubt that my dealer stocks these things so I'll be researching the part number to call them before I drive the 20 miles over there to pick up a replacement.

Guidance appreciated.
Hi,
Just wondering if you had the rest of the caps in place and near torgue before torqueing the first cap. They need to all go down even/together.

When I was a kid I changed a flat tire on an old car and tightened one nut at a time. Guess you know what happened when I got about half way around the rim.............yep the first stud I torqued popped off. Lesson learned............keep all the nuts/taps even with each other.

Hope you get your stud out OK.

Vern


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Bought used K1200LT number 3. This one is green/teal with 31,369(now 7/29/2018 54,143) miles and is an '02. The first 2 bikes made it to near 150,000 miles.
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Due to heart health, the Dr says not to ride under 40 degree air temp. Ugh! Now it is harder to get my 18000 miles a year in just in the summer. Guess that stopped my 20 degree rides now.
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78 years young!
04 Honda Reflex.....Hers (it mostly sits)
Converted HD rider.
Love this LT bike and still waiting for my first speeding ticket. LOL
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post #11 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 12:27 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddyTelco
Pittsburgh is the brand I got at Harbor Fright
#1 on the Pittsburgh
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post #12 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 12:57 pm Thread Starter
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Yes, VVVern, I hand tightened all the nuts first, then pulled out the torque wrench. Now that you mention it, this was the first of the nuts I was torquing down that broke. Frustrating. As this is my first time doing my own service work, I've been proceeding very slowly and cautiously. Stuff happens.

The parts department manager at my dealer said they don't stock the stud bolt and have never ordered it before. Off to the hardware store later to find a M6X50.

Will talk with a neighbor tonight to see if he's got a WWII flame thrower and give that a go. Maybe I can heat this thing up and get it out of there without further damage to my ego.

Thanks, all, for your support.

-Richard S.
2000 K1200LT Champagne
2004 R1150RT Silver
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post #13 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 1:39 pm
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GOOD for You...........doing it right and still s__t happens. Bummer, for sure.

Sure hope you manage to get it out.


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Bought used K1200LT number 3. This one is green/teal with 31,369(now 7/29/2018 54,143) miles and is an '02. The first 2 bikes made it to near 150,000 miles.
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Due to heart health, the Dr says not to ride under 40 degree air temp. Ugh! Now it is harder to get my 18000 miles a year in just in the summer. Guess that stopped my 20 degree rides now.
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78 years young!
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Converted HD rider.
Love this LT bike and still waiting for my first speeding ticket. LOL
Vern
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post #14 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 1:59 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

as Vern said all caps must be seated on head before anything gets torqued, valve springs put a lot of uneven pressure on cam - heat the stud until starting to show a bit of cherry red and it should break bonds and come out

Gary
2018 R1200RT
Past rides
2012 K1600GTL
2000 K1200LT
1992 K1100LT
2000 V Star 650/Velorex sidecar
1985 K100RT
1965 R60/2
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post #15 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 2:19 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Stud bolts normally are threaded both ends with a section of the stem left unthreaded. I don't remember what the stud bolts look like on my motorcycle, but the stud bolt in the picture appears to be threaded all the way, making me think it was not the original stud bolt. The undamaged stud in the picture however looks the same. Either both stud bolts were at one time replaced, or for some weird reason BMW used fully threaded studs. The point is that stud bolts are not merely threaded bar cut to the correct length. The tap end thread is nomally an interference fit, and for metric studs the overall length is not the called out length unless it is fully threaded. There are several DIN standards for stud bolts, with the length of the tap end thread ranging from 1.0 to 2.5 times the nominal diameter. You'll need to either buy the correct part from BMW or an identical equivalent from somwehere else, or verify that the original item was in fact fully threaded, in which case you can probably use an M6 machine screw in Grade 8.8 to make your own. I would use Loctite 271 to secure the stud in the head and let it fully cure before attempting to torque down the cam bearing caps.

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post #16 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 3:28 pm Thread Starter
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Andres, good eye! I wonder if the broken stud was original. It's a slightly different color - more of a yellowish/bronzey color - than the others. No difference in threading though. All of them are fully threaded, no unthreaded sections.

BMW lists an old part number and a replacement number on their parts fiche for these studs. It appears I have 7 of one (probably the older original) and one of the other on the intake side. Maybe a service tech broke this one in the past, replaced it with the new part number item and over torqued or over locktited it - but who knows?

I went to Ace Hardware to day and bought two M6X100 threaded rods. They were nice enough to cut them in half. How would I find out if they're grade 8.8?

-Richard S.
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post #17 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 4:03 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

All the studs in photographs in the manual appear to be fully threaded and IIRC they are. Just have not done a valve check/adjust recently.

John
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post #18 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 4:08 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

I would think the threaded rod available at Ace, Home Depot, Lowe's etc. would be the standard grade which will be similar to Grade 4.6 (talking metric now). This is equvalent to low carbon mild steel and I would be hesitant to use that on any component other than fastening body panels to the frame.

BMW Part #07129902312 was also used on the BMW 3-series (E90N) and you may find that at an auto dealer. You can also try www.marylandmetrics.com, or alternatively buy M6 machine screws in Grade 8.8 from ACE and cut off the heads. You will need to use Loctite 271 or equivalent when installing the new studs.

Metric screws show the grade number on the head, i.e. it will show the numbers 4.6, 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9. You need 8.8 or 10.9. I doubt you'll find 12.9 in the USA. It may be interesting to know that the digit in front of the decimal point relates to the ultimate tensile strength in 100 MPa. So a Grade 8.8 will have an ultimate tensile strength of not less than 800MPa. The digit after the decimal point relates to the yield point in percentage of tensile strength. So the Grade 8.8 will yield at 80% of 800 Mpa, i.e. at 640Mpa. This is nearly three times the yield strength of low carbon mild steel. You can do the calculation for Grade 4.6 and will see it comes to only 240MPa yield strength. A common aluminum alloy like 6061-T6 can exceed this.

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post #19 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 6:19 pm Thread Starter
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Called four BMW car dealers. Found one who told me that not only do none of the local dealers have the -2312 part number in stock but the same is true for the local warehouse and the part would have to be shipped from the warehouse out east (NJ?).

Not knowing what lies ahead as I torque a few more of these, I ordered four of them through the motorcycle dealer. The parts guy laughed and said, "When I need one of them in the future, I'll just call you because you can ship to me faster than BMW can."

Ha ha. I hope he's right that I won't need all four.

-Richard S.
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post #20 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 9:23 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

I hope I didn't scare you into ordering OE parts! But if you don't use all four we know where to get these now.

André Strydom
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post #21 of 43 Old Sep 6th, 2013, 10:03 pm Thread Starter
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I bought the OE parts because I finally found a bargain price from BMW: $.76 each. No need to tap my line of credit.

Buy low, sell high.

Wait to see my ad listed here in the Cla$$ified$.

-Richard S.
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post #22 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 1:53 am
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

If you have enough threads left on the broken stud try double nutting it to remove before destroying completely with vice grips even look for a stud extractor from a tools store or any mechanics you may know just don't butcher it.

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post #23 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 8:00 am
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

My Clymers manual shows for a 2000 LT the torque is 10 newton meters or 88 inch pounds. you should only need one finger on the torque wrench to pull it to 88 inch pounds. Once you get the cap flush to the head the nut should turn a little more than a 1/8th of a turn to reach 88 inch pounds.

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post #24 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 10:07 am
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddleman
My Clymers manual shows for a 2000 LT the torque is 10 newton meters or 88 inch pounds. you should only need one finger on the torque wrench to pull it to 88 inch pounds. Once you get the cap flush to the head the nut should turn a little more than a 1/8th of a turn to reach 88 inch pounds.
Dave and all,
I agree, BUT be careful in going at the other extreme of safe. I have seen an engine where one of these nut became loose a few thousands miles after a valve job - that can really make a mess out of the cam(s) or cam-chain.

Proper range AND calibrated torque wrench is the key - unless you have a LOT of experience and trust your hands.

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post #25 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 10:50 am
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeddyTelco
Pittsburgh is the brand I got at Harbor Fright
+1 -- Pittsburgh is one of HF's house brands

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post #26 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 11:16 am
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor
Dave and all,
I agree, BUT be careful in going at the other extreme of safe. I have seen an engine where one of these nut became loose a few thousands miles after a valve job - that can really make a mess out of the cam(s) or cam-chain.

Proper range AND calibrated torque wrench is the key - unless you have a LOT of experience and trust your hands.
I'm not at all saying to tighten it without a torque wrench. All I'm saying if you have to turn it much past 1/8 of a turn to get to 88 inch pounds your torque wrench might not be working correctly.

Dave Selvig
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post #27 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 1:10 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Quote:
Originally Posted by howles
Searched and re-searched this site last night and found one other thread on this topic. It was from three years ago and it confirmed that the stud bolts are loctited in there.

I pulled out the propane torch and applied heat for what seemed like ten minutes. Even with vice grips, the stud wouldn't budge. I held back and didn't muscle it for fear of hearing what remains of the stud bolt snap off. Will try again tonight (when I'm in a better mood).

For the record, I used a Pittsburgh torque wrench bought via Amazon.com. It was set properly for 10 nm. The markings for foot pounds on it are in increments of 10. The nm markings are increments of .7, with .7 (the lowest setting on the scale) indicating 7 nm. To get an accurate setting on the nm scale requires a bit of thinking(I.e., multiply by ten, then each marking increments by 5/7s of a nm) so it's hard to confuse nM with foot pounds. I've used it before without problems, backed it off when storing, etc. I'll have to research calibrating it before I trust it next time.
If you pay less than $100 for a torque wrench, you are taking a big risk. And if it does not come with a signed certificate of calibration, then I would not use it on anything I valued at all.

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post #28 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 2:01 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

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If you pay less than $100 for a torque wrench, you are taking a big risk. And if it does not come with a signed certificate of calibration, then I would not use it on anything I valued at all.
+1
Pittsburgh is a low end brand. They're torque wrenches are good for torquing lug nuts on cages with steel wheels.

If you had access to a MIG welder, you could weld a nut to top of the broken stud, and that would give you more to play with because then you could use a socket and ratchet with more control and applying the torque more evenly around the stud in an effort to extract it. Of course, you'd want to be pretty handy with a welder.

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post #29 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 2:14 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddleman
I'm not at all saying to tighten it without a torque wrench. All I'm saying if you have to turn it much past 1/8 of a turn to get to 88 inch pounds your torque wrench might not be working correctly.
Dave, I clearly understood your point. Sorry if I use your quote to write my concerns about these nuts (when doing the valves).

I was afraid that some might see this whole thread as an incorrect lesson and think like this: "I might as well torque less than too much - in doing so I will not break anything".

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post #30 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 2:55 pm Thread Starter
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Still don't have the stud bolt removed. I applied 20 minutes of propane heat to it today and still it wouldn't budge. Now waiting for a neighbor, a lifelong gear head and Harley/GoldWing owner, to come over and see what he can see.

One update: I put the wrench head of my torque wrench in a vice, set it to 7 nM and pushed the handle. I could push with my full strength and it doesn't move. In effect I was using a long handled socket wrench - lots of leverage and no click stop.

I bought the Pittsburgh only because I didn't expect to use it very much and thought it would get the job done. Well, I was right in one respect: I won't use it very much! I've owned it for more than one month but less than two and cannot return it at this point.

Moral of the story: don't let trust in your tools override your common sense. Especially if the bolt you might break is one you really don't want to break.

Fingers crossed for a happy ending.

-Richard S.
2000 K1200LT Champagne
2004 R1150RT Silver

Last edited by howles; Sep 7th, 2013 at 3:11 pm.
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post #31 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 4:39 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Richard is your torque wrench a 1/4 inch drive or a 3/8 inch drive ?. If you have a 3/8 inch drive Pittsburgh torque wrench and you are setting it to 7.0 on the NM scale you are torquing it to 50.5 foot pounds or 606 inch pounds. The 3/8 inch drive Pittsburg torque wrench set at 7.0 NM is actually 70 NM.

You need a inch pound torque wrench not a foot pound torque wrench.

Dave Selvig
2004 Black LT
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post #32 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 4:57 pm Thread Starter
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Dave, thanks for that thought.

What I have is a defective Pittsburgh 3/8 inch torque wrench. it's supposed to work in the 5-80 foot pound range.

Even when set at its minimum mark on the nM scale (which is marked .7 but is really 7nM), it has stopped clicking at the set value. I had it set properly at 10nM but didn't realize it was defective. It was almost two months old.

I see other threads on this forum discussing quality brands for replacement. I won't trust a Pittsburgh replacement, even if this is an unusual situation.

-Richard S.
2000 K1200LT Champagne
2004 R1150RT Silver
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post #33 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 6:18 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Although I have good quality torque wrenches I use at home I also have several of the Pittsburgh torque wrenches that I carry on trips & that I loan out. I have them checked on a torque calibrator. All of the 5 that I own are real close to spec. They all torque just a little on the low side. I just tried my 3/8 " Pittsburgh torque wrench on the lowest setting 0.7 & it torqued the nut just fine on the camshaft cap nut. I don't like using torque wrenches near the low side of the range. I would prefer to use the 1/4 inch drive Pittsburgh torque wrench.

The Pittsburgh torque wrenches have a lifetime guarantee on them & can be exchanged for free at any Harbor Freight store. I have replaced 3 of my 1/4" drive Pittsburgh torque wrenches for free because the people I loaned them to broke the 1/4" drive off when they didn't feel the very light click at 62" inch pounds that the final drive preload requires. I have never needed to show a receipt at Harbor Freight for warranty replacement.

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post #34 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 7:53 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

I would like to support Dave. I also have 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Pittsburgh torque wrenches, and let's face it they are cheap. At the lower settings the "click" release is very soft and one has to be careful to not miss the "click". But apart from this I've had good service from these torque wrenches, and the calibration is pretty close. And torque wrenches are pretty simple devices, definitely not rocket science. But Dave makes a good point: if possible avoid using any torque wrench near its low or for that matter near its high setting if you need to be accurate. If the setting required is in the lower 20% or in the upper 20% of the range it is probably better to use the next size.

On another topic, the 1/2" and the 3/8" drive Pittsburgh torque wrenches are calibrated in lb-ft and daNm (deka Newton meter). This unit is 10xNm, so 1 daNm is equivalent to 10Nm. The "daNm" is very close to the unit "kgm" (kilogram meter - not a SI unit) and for all practical purposes 1 daNm = 1kgm.

The 1/4" Pittsburgh torque wrench is calibrated in in-lb and kg-cm. It would have been more correct to show it as lb-in and dNm (desi Nm or 1/10th of a Nm)), but the latter is a little obscure. The unit of lb-ft is normally used for torque, and ft-lb is the unit used for work or energy. I guess it doesn't matter much which way around as long as the user understands the numbers, right?

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post #35 of 43 Old Sep 7th, 2013, 9:19 pm Thread Starter
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

You guys are making me rethink my issue wuth Pittsburgh. Many positve comments other places on this site too.

I am hopeful that I've found the reason for my difficulty extracting the stud bolt. I've been applying most of the heat to the bolt thinking it would carry down its shaft and melt the Loctite. But the steel shaft of the bolt is expanding more than the surrounding aluminum of the cylinder block. So it gets tighter, not looser. Tomorrow we test this new theory by applying the heat to the aluminum more than to the steel.

Not dead in the water yet.

-Richard S.
2000 K1200LT Champagne
2004 R1150RT Silver
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post #36 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 12:34 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Richard,

I'd be hesitant heating up the cylinder head, especially localized heat. Aluminum is a really good conductor and you'll have to add a lot of heat very quickly to get any noticeable local effect. That may not end well for the cylinder head. Have you tried using two nuts locked together, or a stud extractor? If you try Vice-Grips make sure they grip really tight before you apply torque.

André Strydom
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post #37 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 2:28 pm Thread Starter
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Talking Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Would you believe I extracted the stud today without heat, without vice grips, without without double nutting, without welding?

I'd really been thinking hard about finding a solution that would stress the stud as evenly as possible to avoid it breaking. The last thing I wanted to do was to drill it out just because ...well, that was the last option on the table.

Whenever I get into a jam, I say to myself, "All I need now is an idea." I'd been saying that to myself (and to you guys who have so generously weighed in on this thread!) for several days now. Lots of good ideas poured in and I appreciate all of them. But something held me back.

Last night an idea came to me.

Back from church today, I took my drill and set the stud in the chuck as if it were a drill bit. Snugged it up good. Then I simply put the drill to reverse and bingo! The remaining stud unscrewed out of there, no problem. I suspect that prior heating of the bolt loosened the loctite in there - it was either that or the Master Mechanic upstairs appreciated seeing me in church and decided it was time to give me a break.

I am so grateful to all of you for your contributions.

As a postscript, I returned the torque wrench to HF and was given a new one, no receipt, no questions asked. That was my first time in one of their retail stores and won't be my last.

-Richard S.
2000 K1200LT Champagne
2004 R1150RT Silver
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post #38 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 3:27 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Richard, looks like you're back in the game. Way to go.
I'd still buy a different torque wrench. Warranties don't mean squat when the tool causes the kind of grief you've experienced, and besides, it sounds like there's too much to consider/double check just to utilize this inexpensive torque wrench. "is the number a factor of 10 or 1/10?" "is it Nm or p.s.i?" "Was that the tool clicking or my arthritic joints?" "hmmm, maybe I should take another dose of shark cartilage before I continue?" At least if you had a needle deflection type, it's visual instead of audible/feel.
BTW, I've read two posts in this thread mentioning drilling out your stuck and broken stud. Being there was so much of the stud left above the head, drilling it out would be the last thing under the sun I'd try because it would first require cutting off the stud flush, and preferably straight, at the edge of the head, then hitting it dead center w/ a center punch so the bit doesn't walk, and then one better have very good drill bits. Somebody was mentioning the strength/grade of the stud, which would chew up most bits from the local hardware/home improvement store, et al.
But you don't have to worry about that- this time. Happy wrenching.

Jeff
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post #39 of 43 Old Sep 8th, 2013, 8:03 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

With the low torque values you need an inch pound torque wrench. Not a foot pound wrench. Most torque wrenches are way off in the lower and upper 10% of their range

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post #40 of 43 Old Sep 9th, 2013, 12:04 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Quote:
Originally Posted by howles
Will talk with a neighbor tonight to see if he's got a WWII flame thrower and give that a go. Thanks, all, for your support.


Happy to hear it ended nice!
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post #41 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 11:44 am
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

I literally had the same thing happen to me today as I was reassembling the cam shells.
I have a calibrated Sturtyvant Richmont Inch-lb wrench and guess what ,twisty like the stud was made of plastic! I found not just this stud but 4 others not fully seated into the head and easily turned until bottoming. Lucky I didn't strip the head but the good thing was the stud came right out. Ordering some up now and they will all be lock tighted in at the bottom of the hole!
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post #42 of 43 Old Sep 15th, 2013, 12:49 pm Thread Starter
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

For me it was a scary feeling mainly because I'm such a novice when it comes to this engine servicing stuff. Hope your adventure turns out well. Mine did.

I may have cornered the U.S. market on the OEM bolts. I ordered four from BMW but only needed one. If you need three, I can make you a sweet deal. LOL

And by the way, when you tighten the bolts, go slow. After hand tightening all of them, I followed the crisscross pattern, first inside, then outside, tightening each no more than half a turn at a time. Worked like a charm.

-Richard S.
2000 K1200LT Champagne
2004 R1150RT Silver
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post #43 of 43 Old Sep 17th, 2013, 10:49 pm
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Re: I Never Want to Hear That Sound Again

Howels,

This thread last week got me to thinking as I was struggling up under 2007LT putting on the new Wilbers shock that Ted had re-sprung for me... my 40+ year old Sears pointer type torque wrench wasn't cutting it any longer. Especially when I had to go to the manual and convert all those Newton Meters into Ft Lb or Inch Lb.

So I looked on the Sears site and found a nice Digital wrench that would read out in one of four standards. Site said $71.99 down from $119.00. Sears is 3 miles from the shop and I headed out. Surprise when I found the thing hanging there but at $119 and the help didn't know nothing about the web offer. Back to the house, on the net order the torque wrench and wait for the return email that Sears said I'd get within an hour. About 5 minutes and the email was here, printed out and I'm again on the way to Sears. Same guy recognized me. I'd been there less than 30 minutes before and when he looked at the print out I got it for the $71.99 and tax and was back home. But when looking at the instructions I saw it needed batteries. Never said batteries needed, so tomorrow I'll get the batteries and put this thing to work.

So Howels, I hope you got your problem fixed by now and it made me get a new torque wrench too. Looks like it'll last me and hopefully at this price it's a good deal.
Note: It's model 9 13918

Tommy
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