Mobil 1 (0 w 40) - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 21 Old Apr 10th, 2006, 9:59 am Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Monticello, MS,
Posts: 244
Mobil 1 (0 w 40)

I just turned over 23000 miles on my bike. I decided to change from synthetic blend oil to full synthetic. Went to two different places to get Mobil 1 10 w 40, all I could find was 10 w 30 and 0 w 40. I went with the 0 w 40 since it had a higher viscosity rating. My question I live in the south (very hot) and I change my oil every 5000 miles, is it ok to run a oil with the low number being 0.

Thanks.
CARNEYM is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 21 Old Apr 10th, 2006, 10:29 am
Lifetime Supporter
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ, USA
Posts: 1,305
I'd be more concerned about using *only* 40 weight. I don't know about MS, but our temps here in AZ are already exceeding the 30 degree C / 86 F ceiling BMW recommends for 40 weight.

Motor On ,/'


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
jkersh1 is offline  
post #3 of 21 Old Apr 10th, 2006, 12:33 pm
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 575
I would also be concerned of running a 0W40 weight oil in a bike that specifies 20W50. Many 40 weight car and motorcycle oils are known to shear to a 30 weight in a few thousand miles. Many 50 weight motorcycle specific oils shear to a 40 weight. See https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf for some info on motorcycle oils.

If your oil shears below the specified weight shown in the manual, it gives the opportunity for your warranty to be voided if a lubricated part fails.
TimVipond is offline  
 
post #4 of 21 Old Apr 10th, 2006, 12:39 pm
Senior Member
 
amarider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Brentwood, CA, USA
Posts: 5,849
I believe the BMW synthetic is 15W-50 not 20W-50. There is a Mobil 1 available in 15W-50.

John & Cathy
Northern CA
01 K1200LTC Basalt - Moose


Posse #2

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

If you don't know where you're going, you might end up somewhere else
amarider is offline  
post #5 of 21 Old Apr 10th, 2006, 2:11 pm
Senior Member
 
PATTERSON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: RENTON, WA, USA
Posts: 436
I agree with AMARIDER.......do the 20w50.

Patterson/USAF1....'05 LT
and the little guy behind me is the world famous "Marty Hill"
Never look into a lazer with the remaining eye
363K on BMW's
PATTERSON is offline  
post #6 of 21 Old Apr 10th, 2006, 7:54 pm
Senior Member
 
Daman858's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Monkton and Pawlyes Island, MD SC, USA
Posts: 749
Unless you ride in ridiculously cold weather, like around zero degrees, do not use 0W40 in your motorcycle. I use Mobil 1 15W50 full synthetic in my LT and Mobil 1 5W20 in my Honda Accord. It's like water but it is what the manual calls for.

Dave
Monkton, MD
and Pawleys Island, SC
2002 K1200LTC
Daman858 is offline  
post #7 of 21 Old Apr 10th, 2006, 8:17 pm
Senior Member
 
avonfloater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ridgefield, WA, USA
Posts: 925
Cool

Someone told me to look for the Mobil "motorcycle" synthetic suggesting it was better for the heat ranges experienced in motorcycle engines. Anybody know about that? Tks.
avonfloater is offline  
post #8 of 21 Old Apr 10th, 2006, 8:51 pm
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Warrington, Pa., USA
Posts: 635
Mobil 1 makes a 20 w- 50 motorcycle oil called 20w-50 V Twin and 10w- 40 MX4T. The V Twin name is a marketing exercise by Mobil. Since most air cooled V twins require 20- 50W ( and there are allot of V Twins out there), Mobil labeled there 20-50 V-Twin. We sell both if your interested.
nplenzick is offline  
post #9 of 21 Old Apr 10th, 2006, 10:32 pm
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 575
Avonfloater - there are indeed differences between the Mobil1 v-twin 20w50 motorcycle oil and the 15w50 Mobil1 EP oils. The EP oil is API SM, SL and SJ, whereas the v-twin is not. The EP flash point is 241C compared to the v-twin at 270C. You can read all about these oils at www.mobil1.com. The tech line people will say the car oils are not recommended, formulated, or tested for motorcycle use, whereas their motorcycle oils are.
TimVipond is offline  
post #10 of 21 Old Apr 11th, 2006, 3:04 am
Senior Member
 
BecketMa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ, USA
Posts: 3,522
It must be summertime. We have blown bearing and oil threads again.

The results of using the wrong weight oil can be a disaster.

Subbing 40 weight for 50 weight probably isnít good for your engine.

I seem to remember reading that 0X40 oil was developed for autos to increase their EPA gas mileage.

I havenít looked at Mobile synthetic formulation, but I do seem to remember that many synthetic oils are not full synthetic.

I seem to remember Dave having good luck with Castrol 20W50 SI/SJ?, for many 10 thousands of miles.

Bob, 00LT
BecketMa is offline  
post #11 of 21 Old Apr 11th, 2006, 6:16 am
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Littleton, CO, USA
Posts: 937
Why not just use standard mobil 1 20w-50

Several times I have read threads on this forum claiming that the LT is not like typical motorcycle engines. It does not have a wet clutch system that shares the oil with the engine. It is more like an auto. Therefore, I fail to understand the reasoning behind the need to use motorcycle specific oil in the LT.

Why not just go with standard automotive Mobil 1 20/50? It will give you the same benefits of synthetic but for less money. It meets the BMW requirement for oil as well. That is what I am going to do.. I have just over 15K on my '03 LTC and when it turns 18K, in goes the Mobil 1.

Somebody give me a good reason why we shouldn't?
rglassma is offline  
post #12 of 21 Old Apr 11th, 2006, 6:38 am
Senior Member
 
murray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Stroudsburg, PA, USA
Posts: 1,831
Question Suzuki 15-50 Synthetic

Not to muddy the waters but, Suzuki has there brand of motorcycle oil. The suggested use is for both air and water cooled motors. The Suzuki oil is about $3.00 less / quart. I would think this would be compatible with our motors. I bought some and was ready to try it but my paranoia got the best of me. I exchanged it for the BMW stuff.

Anyone know why the Suzuki oil may not be compatible?

Pete Murray
IBA # 359 and
2014 RT
1973 R75/5
2002 LT 171 K Gone
2008 FJR 36 K Gone
Stroudsburg, PA
murray is offline  
post #13 of 21 Old Apr 11th, 2006, 8:26 am Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Monticello, MS,
Posts: 244
Thanks all, I'm going to drain it out and get some 15 w 50.

Mickey
CARNEYM is offline  
post #14 of 21 Old Apr 11th, 2006, 10:58 am
Senior Member
 
HornHonker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 105
Quote:
Originally Posted by rglassma
Why not just go with standard automotive Mobil 1 20/50? It will give you the same benefits of synthetic but for less money. It meets the BMW requirement for oil as well. That is what I am going to do.. I have just over 15K on my '03 LTC and when it turns 18K, in goes the Mobil 1.

Somebody give me a good reason why we shouldn't?
I'm new to the LT (as of last week) but wonder if the gearbox is also lubed by the engine oil ? If so perhaps it is an anti-foaming characteristic that we use motorcycle oil ? There is also the matter of the new very slippery oils that are bad for a wet clutch on most bikes. Why should we not use these as well with our dry clutch ?

2011 BMW 1600GTL
2000 BMW R1100R
2008 Burgman 650EX
HornHonker is offline  
post #15 of 21 Old Apr 11th, 2006, 12:32 pm
Senior Member
 
dshealey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Dandridge (Near Knoxville), TN, USA
Posts: 12,165
Quote:
Originally Posted by avonfloater
Someone told me to look for the Mobil "motorcycle" synthetic suggesting it was better for the heat ranges experienced in motorcycle engines. Anybody know about that? Tks.
"Motorcycle" oils are formulated for two things, high heat found in aircooled engines, and wet clutches that are lubricated by engine oils.

The LT is a water cooled automotive style engine, and it has a dry clutch, also like an automobile. There is absolutely NOTHING to be gained on the LT by using a more expensive "motorcycle" oil. Just use standard automotive oils the weight required.

I would NOT use 0-40W oil though! Especially in warm climates. Way out of BMW's specification.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.
dshealey is offline  
post #16 of 21 Old Apr 11th, 2006, 12:38 pm
Senior Member
 
dshealey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Dandridge (Near Knoxville), TN, USA
Posts: 12,165
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimVipond
Avonfloater - there are indeed differences between the Mobil1 v-twin 20w50 motorcycle oil and the 15w50 Mobil1 EP oils. The EP oil is API SM, SL and SJ, whereas the v-twin is not. The EP flash point is 241C compared to the v-twin at 270C. You can read all about these oils at www.mobil1.com. The tech line people will say the car oils are not recommended, formulated, or tested for motorcycle use, whereas their motorcycle oils are.
When manufacturers state "motorcycle" use, they are covering the entire range, which in the market is overwhelmingly air cooled V-twins, so they do not differentiate between those (which have the most difficult requirement), they also have to cover those that have engine oil lubed wet clutches.

The LT is for all practical purposes an automotive engine/clutch, which needs none of the special formulation required by the other end of the motorcycle spectrum. "Motorcycle" oils offer nothing to the LT, except greater cost.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
Dandridge, TN
EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
IBA SS, BB, BBG, 10/10ths.
No bike now, but maybe in the future.

Last edited by dshealey; Apr 11th, 2006 at 2:16 pm.
dshealey is offline  
post #17 of 21 Old Apr 11th, 2006, 2:01 pm
Senior Member
 
usmctpdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Seattle WA, USA
Posts: 865
Very Well Stated David !!

I have never had any problems using other than factory recommended oils.
It is the oil weight that should be the same.

Infact I am using Rotella oil, made by Shell and sold by Walmart in most of my vehicles, that includs my Suzuki DL1000

47+ Yrs Daily Motorcycle Street riding for Therapy

2012 Victory Cross Country Tour

2007 Black Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom - Sold
2007 Red Moto Guzzi Norge 1200 - Sold
2005 LT Dark Graphite - (Sold)
2005 PearlBlue FJR1300 (Sold)
3 BMW's, 8 HD baggers, 3 Goldwings & 860K + miles later
*Ridin steady since 1973

usmctpdog is offline  
post #18 of 21 Old Apr 11th, 2006, 7:51 pm
Senior Member
 
bruce2000ltc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
Posts: 342
Quote:
Originally Posted by usmctpdog
Very Well Stated David !!

I have never had any problems using other than factory recommended oils.
It is the oil weight that should be the same.
Nor has anybody else. I've been involved with motorcycles and cars for the past 40 years. Through my experience in car and motorcycle clubs --and since the internet came into being -- many car and motorcycle groups, I've heard and read many oil discussions. The one thing I've never heard is a motor that failed because of the type of oil that was used. Now I don't mean an oil pressure failure (either clogged or broken oil pump) or poor maintenance (failure to change oil regularly) but the oil itself failing and causing motor damage. I've asked this question many times: Has anyone had, or do they know anyone who has had, an oil caused engine failure? No one has ever answered: yes.

Use the manufacturer recommended oil grades, change intervals and choose any brand you like.

Bruce Hodges
bruce2000ltc is offline  
post #19 of 21 Old Apr 11th, 2006, 9:34 pm
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 575
"I've asked this question many times: Has anyone had, or do they know anyone who has had, an oil caused engine failure? No one has ever answered: yes."

Actually there are thousands of oil caused engine failures (or engine caused oil failures). Just ask Toyota or any auto consumer protection group (for example http://www.autosafety.org/getcat.php?cid=28. ) For several of their engines they no longer recommend 7500 mile petroleum oil changes due to the high number of oil sludged up engines that are requiring extensive engine repairs and replacement. For certain engines they have changed the oil change interval to 5,000 miles and synthetic motor oil only.

Last edited by TimVipond; Apr 11th, 2006 at 11:00 pm.
TimVipond is offline  
post #20 of 21 Old Apr 12th, 2006, 7:54 am
Senior Member
 
bruce2000ltc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kansas City, MO, USA
Posts: 342
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimVipond
"I've asked this question many times: Has anyone had, or do they know anyone who has had, an oil caused engine failure? No one has ever answered: yes."

Actually there are thousands of oil caused engine failures (or engine caused oil failures). Just ask Toyota or any auto consumer protection group (for example http://www.autosafety.org/getcat.php?cid=28. ) For several of their engines they no longer recommend 7500 mile petroleum oil changes due to the high number of oil sludged up engines that are requiring extensive engine repairs and replacement. For certain engines they have changed the oil change interval to 5,000 miles and synthetic motor oil only.
I don't see Toyota, VW or Chrysler blaming the oil. Looks more like engine design flaws or poor maintenance.

Bruce
bruce2000ltc is offline  
post #21 of 21 Old Apr 12th, 2006, 9:13 am
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 575
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce2000ltc
I don't see Toyota, VW or Chrysler blaming the oil. Looks more like engine design flaws or poor maintenance.

Bruce
They are blaming the oil if you are not using their newly recommended oils. A few of the manufactures are sending out letters to potential sludgies with a new list of specific oils. They used to recommend petroleum oils and are now recommending synthetic oils. Oils can vary alot in evaporation and flash point which can make some oils more sludge prone than others.
TimVipond is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the BMW Luxury Touring Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Lubricant change JPSpen K1200LT 15 Oct 16th, 2005 4:19 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome