EHCS checking switches and relays - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 15 Old Mar 7th, 2013, 2:55 pm Thread Starter
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EHCS checking switches and relays

Hi

After flushing all fluids ( engine, gearbox, FD, breaks.integral and clutch ) , filters ( oil, air and petrol ) on a -06 K12LT.
I'm on the reverse gear and EHCS.
Reverse gear function.
EHCS ( Hydrauic unit works, checked on the workbench ) but not as the bike stands on it's centrestand, and that's probably normal.
Will try with the centre stand in driving position = up. But as we have some feets of snow I have to do it in the garage that's houses 5 bikes and are a bit tight. Need to lift the bike up instead of move ot forward / backward.
Before that procedure, can I chech the switches [ Centre stand limit switch, Side stand switches and any other unit] and where are they located.
PS. will take some pics. on them .

/Sven-Erik
.
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post #2 of 15 Old Mar 7th, 2013, 3:24 pm Thread Starter
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

Note as the Side Stand Switch ( wiring diagram item S9093 ) uses the same switch functions to operate both rewerse gear and EHCS?
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post #3 of 15 Old Mar 7th, 2013, 7:07 pm
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

The side stand switch forms an interlock for the EHCS. Bike in neutral, brakes released, side stand up and not moving she should operate the actuator. Reverse switch just interupts the starter signal for the starter relay and sends it to the reverser controller. Side stand grounds the EHCS controller when it is down to prevent operation and grounds the reverser when up to enable reverse. (or vice versa I can't remember).

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #4 of 15 Old Mar 8th, 2013, 3:19 pm Thread Starter
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

Reducing the searching to locate and test the Centre stand limit switch.
Any clue on it's location.
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post #5 of 15 Old Mar 8th, 2013, 9:23 pm
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

It is right on the center stand frame on the right side where the stopper is for deployment of the stand. Look right in front of the top of the spring mount for a square 10mm block. It is not a moving switch but a magnetic device.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #6 of 15 Old Mar 26th, 2013, 3:35 pm Thread Starter
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

About the EHCS, found some lose / oxidized wires and tested it today.
Working perfect.

In all made the 40kkm service except swapping cam chain guides.
Took some time and was interesting and mostly funny.
One thing that I will remember are to strip the bike from fairings when starting, store all pieces and reinstall it all at the end. This include the EHCS unit due to swapping tranny oil.

For preparation, normal set of tools and
- a 14mm allen key for the tranny drain.
- a lot of break fluid.
- searching forums and youtube for tips and tutorials.
Take your time, have beer / coffee / and nice wrenching company at your side.
Don't hesitate to ask at forums like this if you need tips.

Good luck if you plan to do go trough a similar "wrenching challenge".

PS. next challenge upcoming weekend, swapping carbs, renovate the electrical system and changing fluids and plugs on a Vincent Rapide. Talk about a completely different bike to wrench on.
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post #7 of 15 Old May 2nd, 2013, 1:09 pm Thread Starter
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

Hi

Everythiing works great exept the EHCS, it intermittently losses power when start to lift the bike. But not always sometimes it works as expected.
Would like to test the relay by connecting a jumper over it, are the relay located under the driver seat just behind the battery?

BTW, took the beemer out 2 weeks ago on gravel roads and a bit of the surface had a bit of clay'ist surface just melted with permafrost appr. 2-4" under it. Trilling but astonishing easy to handle dispite it weight.
Can be due to the rel. low CG and not so wide tyres.
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post #8 of 15 Old May 2nd, 2013, 7:10 pm
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

If the EHCS goes full travel on the bench but will not lift the bike then it is low on oil. It only has to loose about 10-15 ml for this to happen. If you can hear the motor running but the unit makes the bike "buck" when trying to lift that is the problem. You can drain the old oil out of the side fitting (19mm). It is a spigot with two O-rings and it isolates the pressure and return side of the unit. If you remove that and press the rod in and lets it go back out several times you will get most of the old oil out. Then re fill using a syringe and measure carefully and put back no more than 145 ml of oil. If you exceed that amount you risk cracking the case. Then put the spigot back in and give her a go. It also helps to push the rod in while filling the unit as it creates a suction.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #9 of 15 Old Jun 1st, 2013, 12:25 pm Thread Starter
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

Hi
Have some problem with the EHCS operation, Hydraulic pump switch off just before moving the CS to stable extended position.
Can it be any adjustment of the Center Stand Position sensor
If so any tips on how to position / check the sensor?
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post #10 of 15 Old Jun 1st, 2013, 4:44 pm
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

Quote:
Originally Posted by tibbe
Hi
Have some problem with the EHCS operation, Hydraulic pump switch off just before moving the CS to stable extended position.
Can it be any adjustment of the Center Stand Position sensor
If so any tips on how to position / check the sensor?

If it rises up but does not go all the way it is low on fluid. No switches to adjust. If you remove the unit and unscrew the 19 mm bolt you can add about 10-15 ml (DO NOT ADD MORE THAN THAT) of jack oil. May have to push the rod in to get it to take the fluid. Re install the bolt and the unit. It should work now. But the shaft seal is worn and will continue to leak over time. A rebuild is in order.
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John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #11 of 15 Old Jun 3rd, 2013, 4:13 am Thread Starter
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
If the EHCS goes full travel on the bench but will not lift the bike then it is low on oil. It only has to loose about 10-15 ml for this to happen. If you can hear the motor running but the unit makes the bike "buck" when trying to lift that is the problem. You can drain the old oil out of the side fitting (19mm). It is a spigot with two O-rings and it isolates the pressure and return side of the unit. If you remove that and press the rod in and lets it go back out several times you will get most of the old oil out. Then re fill using a syringe and measure carefully and put back no more than 145 ml of oil. If you exceed that amount you risk cracking the case. Then put the spigot back in and give her a go. It also helps to push the rod in while filling the unit as it creates a suction.
On bike the EHCS piston makes not full travel and the engine stops running.
On bench the EHCS makes full travel, the engine continue to run and and you can hear from the engine that it has build up full pressure as the engine works harder and probably the internal pressure limit valve opens.

Moved the magnetic switch to the side and will test if there are any improvements.
Second test lose the switch and try if the EHCS runs until full travel.
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post #12 of 15 Old Jun 3rd, 2013, 12:52 pm
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

Going to full travel on the bench is not a sign it has enough fluid. Add the 10 -15 ml and you will be fine. I have worked with about 25 of these so far and low oil is your problem.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #13 of 15 Old Jun 3rd, 2013, 4:46 pm Thread Starter
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

Hi
Thanks for the tips on adding 10-15ml of jack oil, seems to be the fault as it's now working with the fault you describe.
Jack oil is it the same as hydraulic oil in f.ex. hydraulic steering and levering used in Audi and BMW and Citroen?
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post #14 of 15 Old Jun 3rd, 2013, 6:52 pm
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

The fluid in there is pretty thin and I have been using hydraulic jack oil in my re-builds. It's a little thicker. But what you have should work OK.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #15 of 15 Old Jun 24th, 2013, 2:28 am Thread Starter
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Re: EHCS checking switches and relays

Filled a few ml and now it's running.
Found the CS position sensor and adjusted it a bit to the side.
All is working perfect now.

Saved som bucks as the workshop quoted us a new EHCS.
Together with doing the full service as a winter wrenching hobby.
Guess we saved 2700E / USD3500 for touring and pleassure.
A big thanks for your advises that made this possible.

PS. Have swapped the free wheel unit on a K11LT, a bit of wrenching.
Took the drive train out of the frame as one unit.
Then dissasembled the tranny from the engine, clutch + flywheel and rear cover of the engine ( over the flywheel ) and the free wheel unit.
Got a new free wheel centre unit from moto-bins.co.uk for USD75.
PS important the free wheel unit should look counter clockwise seen from the tranny as the starter runs counter clockwise. Also the small springs in the free wheel unit should face the cover plate on the free wheel unit.
All runs well except that the engine runs on 3 cyl. Can be a cracked derfect plug.
This evenings task.
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