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post #1 of 42 Old Feb 11th, 2013, 1:06 pm Thread Starter
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Too many connectors on battery posts!

I have added a couple of powered accessories to my LT and recently bought a battery post extension at the local auto parts store. This just doesn't seem like a good way to do things.

How to do you experienced wrenchers power your stuff without loading up the battery posts???

For example, I wired power to the stingray for my TomTom GPS unit, have the Battery Tender Jr., added wiring for heated suit controller, power for a hidden antenna, power for some trunk LED strips, have a PO PIAA lighting connection (?), plus an old XM satellite power source that I no longer use.

Seems to me that the only unit that should be connected directly to the battery posts is the Battery Tender. Everything else could be on some sort of switched power circuit (?) which is not hot all of the time. Haven't had any trouble with battery drain yet, but it does bother me.

How have you guys (gals) combined these connections through a switched relay of some sort? Are there off the shelf hobby boxes to house the terminal strips or whatever? I've looked at hobby stores and Radio Shack and find various relays, boxes and connection devices, but am not sure what makes for an elegant solution to this problem.

Thanks for any advice and pictures you can provide.
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post #2 of 42 Old Feb 11th, 2013, 1:16 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

i had a similar problem i got connector & ground blocks from (electrical connection)
not cheep but nice stuff. i mounted the stuff where the canister used to go. it.s all hidden and a clean look
now the down side you have to remove the topcase to access it. but i dont have to access it very often
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post #3 of 42 Old Feb 11th, 2013, 1:16 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxbobg
I have added a couple of powered accessories to my LT and recently bought a battery post extension at the local auto parts store. This just doesn't seem like a good way to do things.

How to do you experienced wrenchers power your stuff without loading up the battery posts???

For example, I wired power to the stingray for my TomTom GPS unit, have the Battery Tender Jr., added wiring for heated suit controller, power for a hidden antenna, power for some trunk LED strips, have a PO PIAA lighting connection (?), plus an old XM satellite power source that I no longer use.

Seems to me that the only unit that should be connected directly to the battery posts is the Battery Tender. Everything else could be on some sort of switched power circuit (?) which is not hot all of the time. Haven't had any trouble with battery drain yet, but it does bother me.

How have you guys (gals) combined these connections through a switched relay of some sort? Are there off the shelf hobby boxes to house the terminal strips or whatever? I've looked at hobby stores and Radio Shack and find various relays, boxes and connection devices, but am not sure what makes for an elegant solution to this problem.

Thanks for any advice and pictures you can provide.
Read this thread then you can choose your poison.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthre...ght=fuse+block

Robert

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post #4 of 42 Old Feb 11th, 2013, 1:53 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Wow! Thanks, Robert. I looked in the Hall of Wisdom, but missed this thread. Looks like there are some good options for me. The fuzeblock looks nice but is expensive (about $90) and I can't bring up the website. I looked up the HELLA relay and found one for under $6. Still haven't located a good waterproof enclosure with terminal connector strips. Will keep looking.

Kellenbenz recommended the Eastern Beaver website, looks like they have some good solutions as well.

Sorry if I rehashed an old question. Thanks to all for your advice.
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post #5 of 42 Old Feb 11th, 2013, 3:02 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxbobg
Wow! Thanks, Robert. I looked in the Hall of Wisdom, but missed this thread. Looks like there are some good options for me. The fuzeblock looks nice but is expensive (about $90) and I can't bring up the website. I looked up the HELLA relay and found one for under $6. Still haven't located a good waterproof enclosure with terminal connector strips. Will keep looking.

Kellenbenz recommended the Eastern Beaver website, looks like they have some good solutions as well.

Sorry if I rehashed an old question. Thanks to all for your advice.
I did eventually buy the Eastern Beaver big fuse block. I am quite happy with it. I mounted it on top or the left sidecase under the frame with velcro. Easy enough to get to when needed.
Robert

They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
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1994 R1100RSL (wife's)
1981 R80GS
1976 R90S
1965 R80/2 Frankenbike (wife's)
2001 Bunkhouse LX (given to son)
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post #6 of 42 Old Feb 11th, 2013, 7:27 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Blue Sea Systems fuse block. I use the 12 circuit version so each item has its own fuse and easier to diagnose. No, I do not have that many items powered by it, but the 6 was not enough......

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
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post #7 of 42 Old Feb 11th, 2013, 7:35 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

It's not on a K, but here's the Eastern Beaver on my RT.


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post #8 of 42 Old Feb 11th, 2013, 11:15 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Good info. I was cursing real loud in the workshop after I installed a new battery tender.... there's like 6 or 7 rings on the positive terminal of the battery... was a ***** to get the bolt back into the battery. Fingers are to phat.

I'm gonna leave it for now but a separate terminal strip thingy sounds good. Adding a subwoofer amplifier in a few weeks so even more power rings on the terminals. Doh.
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post #9 of 42 Old Feb 12th, 2013, 8:52 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

I use the Fuzeblock. Has worked well for me. Click here A feature of the Fuzeblock is that you can power your accessories either always powered or switched. Other products may do the same, but I am only familiar with Fuzeblock.

As for the battery tender, I connected a Powerlet plug here to the tender, then plug into outlet near left footpeg. This outlet is always live. The outlet in the top case is switched.

Scott and Theresa
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post #10 of 42 Old Feb 12th, 2013, 9:25 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Munmi

As for the battery tender, I connected a Powerlet plug here to the tender, then plug into outlet near left footpeg. This outlet is always live. The outlet in the top case is switched.
Seems like you may have cut the SAE connector off of your Battery Tender charging lead since your link points to the plug only.

Using this SAE to Powerlet adapter you can leave the SAE plug intact and simply attach this powerlet plug, which can then be plugged into the lower left power outlet. I prefer this approach as it permits the flexibility to use the tender with other accessories. In my case, this includes a 25' SAE extension, a set of alligator clips for charging other batteries, etc.

Same result, different implementation.

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
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post #11 of 42 Old Feb 12th, 2013, 12:01 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by deputy5211
Seems like you may have cut the SAE connector off of your Battery Tender charging lead since your link points to the plug only.

Using this SAE to Powerlet adapter you can leave the SAE plug intact and simply attach this powerlet plug, which can then be plugged into the lower left power outlet. I prefer this approach as it permits the flexibility to use the tender with other accessories.
Didn't cut off the SAE from tender. Made my own connector lead. I Purchased an SAE lead at the AutoValue in town and attached a Powerlet plug that I had in the box. I agree, didn't want to limit useability.

Scott and Theresa
Munising, MI
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post #12 of 42 Old Feb 12th, 2013, 1:57 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

I have installed the Fuzeblock and like the option to power accessories from a switched or always hot source. Agree it is a little expensive, but it is compact and works well.
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post #13 of 42 Old Feb 12th, 2013, 2:54 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Blue Sea fuse blocks are carried by West Marine, which has a big store nearby (I'm in northeast FL). Going up there tomorrow morning to take a look at their selection.

The Eastern Beaver looks more elegant in design and is less cost than the Fuzeblock brand. Also, Fuzeblock appears to use mini fuses (where do you get those things?)

Since all of these fuse blocks have fuses in them, what do you do about the inline fuses that are already in the wiring supplied with the accessories? Now there are two fuses in the circuit! Can't take the fuse out of the accessory lead, that will interrupt the circuit. So what is the effect on the electrical circuit?? If one fuse blows, will the other one go also? What about a short, will both fuses blow - does it matter?

Mumble, mumble ... this electrical stuff makes me want to curl up somewhere and cry.l
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post #14 of 42 Old Feb 12th, 2013, 6:26 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Two fuses in the same circuit will not hurt, but it can be confusing if both fuses blow at the same time. How often this happens, I cannot say, but I have seen it. Plus, you now may have to carry two different fuses (ATC and 5X20mm, for example)

I would take out the inline fuse, extending the wire if needed with a butt splice. The Marinco heat-shrink ones from West Marine are far superior to most others. And, you are going there anyway, so...

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post #15 of 42 Old Feb 12th, 2013, 7:56 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxbobg
...Since all of these fuse blocks have fuses in them, what do you do about the inline fuses that are already in the wiring supplied with the accessories?...
Stick a high amperage fuse in the in-line spot, and protect the circuit with a proper size fuse in the fuse block.

For example, if you're dealing with a GPS connection that needs to be protected with a 2A fuse, put a 30A fuse in-line, and a 2A fuse in the block.

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post #16 of 42 Old Feb 12th, 2013, 8:14 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Awwww, screw all those high-dollar solutions to a simple problem! So long as you don't absolutely need your accessories to be keyed-hot only, then how about this little gem for only $18.00?

http://www.cyclenutz.com/BMW-K1200LT...Kit_p_139.html

FYI: They work beautifully!

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post #17 of 42 Old Feb 12th, 2013, 8:44 pm
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Wink Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Tony's suggestion is exactly what I did years ago for my tender. A big plus is that I can also use the tender on my Tiger which has an SAE connector! This is the most common battery tender connection on Bikes as a matter of fact (the SAE connector) so the versatility is a big plus when you go with the adapter plug.

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by deputy5211
Seems like you may have cut the SAE connector off of your Battery Tender charging lead since your link points to the plug only.

Using this SAE to Powerlet adapter you can leave the SAE plug intact and simply attach this powerlet plug, which can then be plugged into the lower left power outlet. I prefer this approach as it permits the flexibility to use the tender with other accessories. In my case, this includes a 25' SAE extension, a set of alligator clips for charging other batteries, etc.

Same result, different implementation.

John & Marilyn Fisher
'00 K1200LTC "Katie"
'95 Triumph "Tigger"
'12 Triumph 800XC "Tigger II" (RIP)
'12 Triumph 1200 Explorer "Shadow Tigger"
Hillsboro, Oregon

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post #18 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 12:16 am
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Talking Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

www.qsradio.com has just the thing. and they work.
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post #19 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 3:40 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonwing
Awwww, screw all those high-dollar solutions to a simple problem! So long as you don't absolutely need your accessories to be keyed-hot only, then how about this little gem for only $18.00?

http://www.cyclenutz.com/BMW-K1200LT...Kit_p_139.html

FYI: They work beautifully!
This cheap route appeals to me, and it looks simple!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenceer
www.qsradio.com has just the thing. and they work.
What exactly are we looking for? These folks have a boatload of stuff.

Jeff
Big D is my neck of the woods

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post #20 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 8:13 am Thread Starter
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

I don't see where the Blue Sea or Eastern Beaver fuse blocks provide a relay for switched power. In my original post I mentioned switched power to accessories to prevent battery drain, but I guess I wasn't too clear about what I want to achieve.

So far, I've pieced together this much of a solution: 1) buy a fuzeblock, which has built in connectors for running either switched or "always on" power, or 2) buy a Hella rely with the relay lead connected to the heated seat wire and then power the accessories with a weatherproof fuse block

Some of the other suggestions in this thread seem to leave the accessories "hot" all of the time, a potential battery drain if the bike its in the garage for a couple of weeks. The only "hot" lead I want is for the Battery Tender.
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post #21 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 8:36 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxbobg
I don't see where the Blue Sea or Eastern Beaver fuse blocks provide a relay for switched power. In my original post I mentioned switched power to accessories to prevent battery drain, but I guess I wasn't too clear about what I want to achieve.

So far, I've pieced together this much of a solution: 1) buy a fuzeblock, which has built in connectors for running either switched or "always on" power, or 2) buy a Hella rely with the relay lead connected to the heated seat wire and then power the accessories with a weatherproof fuse block

Some of the other suggestions in this thread seem to leave the accessories "hot" all of the time, a potential battery drain if the bike its in the garage for a couple of weeks. The only "hot" lead I want is for the Battery Tender.
The choice of distribution is up to the buyer. The switched circuit depends on how you want it to work. Even if you have a HOT feed to the distribution block there will be no more of a draw than not having one unless you power up a circuit. You can install a 30 or 40 Amp relay on the feed circuit to the distribution block and power the coil from a switched source. Not really necessary and a waste of resources. If you have extra lights and wire them using a relay then your relay should be controlled by a switched circuit.

Lets say you have aux lights. You feed the main power directly to the distribution block. You control them using a switched circuit through a relay.
If you add a Stebel horn then you do the same. Feed through a distribution block and control the relay from the switched circuit.
You have to determine the size wire from the battery post to the distribution block for total draw. Buying the fuze block in my opinion is a waste of money. A good quality distribution block will work just as good. Avoid these all in one distribution panels that have built in relays and circuits. Once a built in component fails your screwed. If you blow a fuse or a relay fails on the road you should be able to do a road side replacement. If one of these expensive fancy panels fail what do you do? But another one perhaps?

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post #22 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 8:57 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

I use the Powerlet adapter, it works well, 8 different hookups and is fused but for a little extra $$ I would go to one of the fuse boxes most of these guys use

Termin-8 Easier Than A Fuseblock ( Powerlet Description )

http://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-prod...bution/PWRDIST

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post #23 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 10:45 am Thread Starter
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

So, if I understand what 6speedTi is telling me, the main thing I want to do is move all of the connectors from the battery posts to a "distribution block", doesn't matter whether the circuits are always on or switched. I have noticed that when I start the LT, all accessories are cut out while the engine fires up.

I assume that your comment about aux lights and the Stebel horn refer to the fact that these devices already have a dedicated switch or push-button.

I usually ride my bike every day, but occasionally take a road trip with my kids and grand kids for a week or two. That's when I plug in the Battery Tender. If the unswitched circuits aren't drawing any power when not in use, then why does the battery drain when the bike is just sitting in the garage?

What do the riders in snow country do for to protect their batteries if they don't fire up the bike for 2 or 3 months??
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post #24 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 11:28 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaFish
Tony's suggestion is exactly what I did years ago for my tender. A big plus is that I can also use the tender on my Tiger which has an SAE connector! This is the most common battery tender connection on Bikes as a matter of fact (the SAE connector) so the versatility is a big plus when you go with the adapter plug.

John
I also have an SAE connector attached to my battery terminals. I can plug in directly from the Tender's cord/extension, or use the lower left plug as described above. The battery-connected SAE pigtail is what Suzanne plugs her HeatTroller into, or her iPhone charger via a USB charging adapter. SAE is your friend.

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
-----------------------------------------------

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If you want to be happy for a year, marry.
If you want to be happy for a lifetime, ride a motorcycle.

-----------------------------------------------


'05 K1200LT - Dark Graphite - RIP 04 OCT 2015
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post #25 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 11:31 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxbobg
I don't see where the Blue Sea or Eastern Beaver fuse blocks provide a relay for switched power. In my original post I mentioned switched power to accessories to prevent battery drain, but I guess I wasn't too clear about what I want to achieve.

So far, I've pieced together this much of a solution: 1) buy a fuzeblock, which has built in connectors for running either switched or "always on" power, or 2) buy a Hella rely with the relay lead connected to the heated seat wire and then power the accessories with a weatherproof fuse block

Some of the other suggestions in this thread seem to leave the accessories "hot" all of the time, a potential battery drain if the bike its in the garage for a couple of weeks. The only "hot" lead I want is for the Battery Tender.
I run ground directly from BlueSea block to battery ground. Positive comes from battery but passes through a power relay that is switched on by a sense line tapped into the seat heater circuit. This not only causes the block to be switched, but is is also protected by the LT's load shed relay.

Antony (Tripod)
Dallas' Northern Suburbs
-----------------------------------------------

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If you want to be happy for a year, marry.
If you want to be happy for a lifetime, ride a motorcycle.

-----------------------------------------------


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post #26 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 11:57 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonwing
Awwww, screw all those high-dollar solutions to a simple problem! So long as you don't absolutely need your accessories to be keyed-hot only, then how about this little gem for only $18.00?

http://www.cyclenutz.com/BMW-K1200LT...Kit_p_139.html

FYI: They work beautifully!
Made my own from some brass strips from the hardware store. Less than a couple of bucks!
Accomplishment satisfaction needs fulfilled based on long term projects at work. This is Q.E.D. (Quite Easily done)

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post #27 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 4:18 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Holy crap! Now I have to know about something called a load shed relay?

I just want to move all of the those little connectors off of my battery posts. I found a nice terminal strip at West Marine today, with a plastic cover. Only thing I need now is heavy gauge wire to run from the plus & minus battery posts. Should I get 12 or 14 gauge wire?

Here is a picture of my battery mess and the new terminal strip (top center). If this isn't the correct solution, I can return it and get something else.

Sorry if I'm annoying you old timers, but this whole business is confusing to me. I just read a thread about battery drain, and apparently the LT battery will go dead in about 3 months if not connected to a battery tender.
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post #28 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 4:54 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

What you purchased from West Marine will do just fine. I would go with the heaviest gauge wire to the battery. I am attaching a simple diagram on how to wire a relay. On my LT I wired the trigger (SPST switch on diagram) to the rear seat heater wire. This way the relay will shut off when you turn the key off. From the diagram, the fog/driving lights would be the item that you purchased from West Marine.
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post #29 of 42 Old Feb 13th, 2013, 9:01 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxbobg
Holy crap! Now I have to know about something called a load shed relay?

I just want to move all of the those little connectors off of my battery posts. I found a nice terminal strip at West Marine today, with a plastic cover. Only thing I need now is heavy gauge wire to run from the plus & minus battery posts. Should I get 12 or 14 gauge wire?

Here is a picture of my battery mess and the new terminal strip (top center). If this isn't the correct solution, I can return it and get something else.

Sorry if I'm annoying you old timers, but this whole business is confusing to me. I just read a thread about battery drain, and apparently the LT battery will go dead in about 3 months if not connected to a battery tender.
The load shed relay (LSR) is part of the LT's systems. When you press the start button, it triggers the LSR to disconnect electrical systems not necessary for cranking and firing the engine. This provides maximum power to the start process.

If you supply your fuse block with power controlled by a relay as I described above, your fuse block will automatically be switched off when cranking. Was just pointing out another benefit of doing it that way. Sorry if it confused you.

Antony (Tripod)
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post #30 of 42 Old Feb 14th, 2013, 8:02 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxbobg
Sorry if I'm annoying you old timers, but this whole business is confusing to me. I just read a thread about battery drain, and apparently the LT battery will go dead in about 3 months if not connected to a battery tender.
Correct me if I'm misunderstanding, but I think I finally understand your concern, as stated in your original post. You're thinking that moving the rat's nest of wires off the battery posts and onto a separate distribution block will somehow prevent the battery from self-discharging, right? If that's the issue, then, as was hinted at in some of the previous posts, the answer is no--it will not. So long as the accessories are not powered up--that is, you didn't leave your fog lights, GPS, radar detector on--after you shut the bike down, it doesn't matter if these items are attached to the battery posts or to any non-switched distribution block you may have added. Off is off. What many riders forget, though, is that there is a small (or maybe not so small--I haven't measured) current drain from items like the radio, especially, which need to be constantly powered to run the clock and station preset memories. Otherwise, you'd have to reset the clock and radio stations every time you started the bike. Though the drain is small, it is real. And it is the reason that bikes not ridden during the winter, or only very rarely during the season, really need to be kept on a charger. The battery will discharge even at this low current drain. Three months sounds about right.

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post #31 of 42 Old Feb 14th, 2013, 8:14 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrevelino
What you purchased from West Marine will do just fine. I would go with the heaviest gauge wire to the battery. I am attaching a simple diagram on how to wire a relay. On my LT I wired the trigger (SPST switch on diagram) to the rear seat heater wire. This way the relay will shut off when you turn the key off. From the diagram, the fog/driving lights would be the item that you purchased from West Marine.

Michael: Thanks you for the east-to-follow relay instructions. However, I was under the impression that the BMW's CAN/BUS electrical system, being somewhat of a different animal from that of an ordinary motorcycle's system, requires that all circuit grounds go back to the battery, as opposed to being attached to the nearest frame point? Grounding to the frame, I thought, somehow 'confused' the system and resulted in all sorts of error messages and codes.....or ghosts, or something. Am I mistaken?

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post #32 of 42 Old Feb 14th, 2013, 9:22 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonwing
Michael: Thanks you for the east-to-follow relay instructions. However, I was under the impression that the BMW's CAN/BUS electrical system, being somewhat of a different animal from that of an ordinary motorcycle's system, requires that all circuit grounds go back to the battery, as opposed to being attached to the nearest frame point? Grounding to the frame, I thought, somehow 'confused' the system and resulted in all sorts of error messages and codes.....or ghosts, or something. Am I mistaken?
I haven't had a chance to play with the CAN/BUS system on my RT since it already had an accessory fuse box installed. I do not believe that the LT has a CAN/BUS system, if so, what model year did that start?

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post #33 of 42 Old Feb 14th, 2013, 9:35 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

As far as I know, the LT has always used the CAN/BUS system.

DW

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post #34 of 42 Old Feb 14th, 2013, 9:39 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonwing
As far as I know, the LT has always used the CAN/BUS system.
NOT TWUE!

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post #35 of 42 Old Feb 14th, 2013, 12:39 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by PMitchell
NOT TWUE!

Looks like I'm way off here. The topic was discussed previously:

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56616

Has just made my add-on projects a lot less worrisome!

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post #36 of 42 Old Feb 14th, 2013, 12:46 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonwing
Not twue? The pewhaps you might cowwect my mis-infowmation, since much of what I'm weading talks about the CAN/BUS system on the LT. What am I missing hewe, pwease?
Guess I deserved that . . .
Often I have found info quicker with a Google search than using the function on this site, nontheless Click here

My search criteria was K1200LT Can Bus

My post in that thread Also used in the auto industry
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canbus

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post #37 of 42 Old Feb 14th, 2013, 12:52 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Looks like we crossed paths. I found it on BING.

B

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post #38 of 42 Old Feb 14th, 2013, 8:15 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Many thanks to deputy5211, PMitchell, Dragonwing, mtrevelino, 6speedTI and others who have tried to educate me. I really do appreciate you guys.

I think I'll go with the diagram provided by mtrevelino, wired to the West Marine terminal strip and keep the inline fuses already wired into the accessory leads. That looks pretty straightforward for a novice like me to wire up.

Not sure I understand the CANBUS discussion, but Dragonwing comments indicate that I don't have to worry about it as long as my accessories are all protected by their own fuses.Why is there so much confusion about the K1200LT having this CANBUS device (is it a computer module?)

I also now get the drift of the load shed relay. I wondered why everything shuts down when I push the starter switch. You must be a bunch of electrical engineering geniuses.

Three hour bike trip this weekend to visit my daughter, son-in-law and favorite granddaughter. Will take on the wiring project next week when I get back, and will post pics of the results.

If I finish this project and the garage catches fire in the middle of the night because of bad wiring on the bike I'll hunt you guys down one by one and ..........
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post #39 of 42 Old Feb 15th, 2013, 7:57 am
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

The Lt Does Not Have The Canbus System!
Info here (again) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canbus

You are mixing oranges with apples.

The fused distribution boxes can be used on bikes with or without Canbus.

I use a Blue Sea box and activate it for my accessories through a connection with the positive lead of the heated seat circuit. This can only be activated when the engine is running.


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post #40 of 42 Old Feb 15th, 2013, 12:07 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Oh, man! This has taken on a life of its own and become waaaaay too complicated.
Let's start over, with a simple, yet elegant reply to the OP:

If the accessories all work as they should, just leave the wires where they are.

There. Fixed.

DW

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post #41 of 42 Old Feb 15th, 2013, 12:46 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonwing
Oh, man! This has taken on a life of its own and become waaaaay too complicated.
Let's start over, with a simple, yet elegant reply to the OP:

If the accessories all work as they should, just leave the wires where they are.

There. Fixed.
Just like the Law then . . . Guilty or Not Guilty

Then of course we had the original post & request by jaxbobg "How have you guys (gals) combined these connections through a switched relay of some sort? "


When you add a GPS (or two), PIAA lights, Moto Lights, power amp, two-way radio you just can't attach all of those goodies to the + post of the battery safely (vibration, loose ends, etc).

The simple solution is to extend a heavy gauge wire to a distribution box (just like your home electrical panel) and each accessory items circuit can be connected and fused there rather than having spider wires near the battery's + terminal and potentially short our your wiring harness. For those items that you want to work only when the engine is running a relay (solenoid activated switch) to a circuit that is activated only when the engine is running such as the seat heater circuit.

Here is another easy solution . . .

Quite Easily Done

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post #42 of 42 Old Feb 15th, 2013, 2:35 pm
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Re: Too many connectors on battery posts!

Wasn't going to throw my hat in the ring but then what's the fun in that! Just surprised that no has mentioned the CENTECH fuse block. It's compact and gives you a total of 8 circuits split into two groups. One group of 5 and one of 3. I just installed one on my R1200RT and have the group of 5 activated with a relay triggered off of the parking light so those circuits are only on with the ignition and the remaining three are powered directly off of the battery and are consequently on all the time. Works great and keeps things neat and tidy. Blue Sea stuff is great also, had their 6 ckt fuse block on my LT. The advantage to the CENTECH is that it's compact. The disadvantage is that it's considerably more expensive.
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