Hi just bought a K1200Lt love it. Not sure about when I twist the throttle to give it heaps to pass or take off it seems to die but revs go up. Its like something is slipping or retarding.
I hate to say it, but it sounds like someone sold you a bike with a slipping clutch. Not the first time we've heard of that on this board.yeates68 said:Hi just bought a K1200Lt love it. Not sure about when I twist the throttle to give it heaps to pass or take off it seems to die but revs go up. Its like something is slipping or retarding.
I like Beemerboneyard too, but the original poster is an Aussie; the shipping might kill the bargain for him.westvandude said:Not sure how good their pricing is but: http://www.beemerboneyard.com/clutches.html I just bought some body parts for mine off them and I have to say SUPER FAST service!!!! VERY pleased.
+1cws said:Hope you've dodged a bullet having the warranty. Best of luck!
That is the best news I've read all day on this forum! Good play.yeates68 said:...however I purchased from a dealer and it comes with a 3 month/5000km warranty...
CharlieVT said:I hate to say it, but it sounds like someone sold you a bike with a slipping clutch. Not the first time we've heard of that on this board.
The slipping clutch is a known issue. I've no personal experience with the problem but have read several reports on this site. Characteristic symptom is that when you open the throttle to accelerate, particularly when in high gear, the rpm's go up but the bike doesn't accelerate.
A known cause in some bikes is a leaking clutch slave cylinder which lets clutch fluid get on the clutch resulting in slipping. Others have had the rear main seal leak causing clutch slippage.
If this is the problem, too bad because the fix is to replace the clutch.
Many posts on this site about the subject, search around and you'll find plenty to read.
Darn shame if someone knowingly sold you the bike with a slipping clutch.
If nothing shows heat damage (blue/brown spots) then the only thing you need to replace is the friction disk, as long as everything else is cleaned completely.yeates68 said:Ok thankyou for your help, With the clutch replacement do you put a complete kit in or just the plate because I would of thought if it was caused by an oil leak the damage would be done to anything that absorbs the oil.
Yeah, they admitted that there was a leak and they thought it might happen so they also said no worries we will fix it.BecketMa said:Huuuuuuuum?
Just bought it from a dealer, a dealer that didn't catch that the clutch is slipping?
Best from Tucson Arizona Mate
Bob
dshealey said:If nothing shows heat damage (blue/brown spots) then the only thing you need to replace is the friction disk, as long as everything else is cleaned completely.
When a clutch is replaced due to slave leakage, you need to also replace the front and rear input shaft seals on the transmission, as the brake fluid from the clutch leak causes them to fail soon.
Also, any time the transmission is pulled, replace the engine rear oil seal and O-ring. That O-ring is the usual cause of oil leak, as it hardens and cracks. There are VITON O-rings that will withstand the heat much better, someone here once purchased some, but I cannot remember who.
It still may be in your technique. Try to start out by letting the clutch out slowly and do NOT exceed 1200 to 1500 RPM until the clutch is fully engaged and your hand is off the clutch lever. Then hit the gas and see how she does.yeates68 said:They have replaced the oil seals and put a new clutch kit in yet the clutch still slips