I replaced the rear seal on the engine which required taking everything off including
The job was time consuming and simple.
Did this by myself without a bike lift but you should have a lift to hold up the back of
the bike. The videos by John Zeiler and the PDF mentioned earlier was all I had to go
by with an occasional look at the Clymers Manual . . .
Only undocumented issue (or maybe I just did not read it well) was taking our the rear
engine support bolts and dropping the rear of the engine to get the transmission out
while loosing the front support bolts.
Also had the special socket (milled out) and the large allen wrench for the swing arm
and made my own piece of angle iron to stop the clutch from rotating when torquing
up the bolts
Make a few mistakes - like messing with the transmission reversing switch. Had to
buy a new one!!
Actual wrenching time about 20 hours, actual thinking time about 20 hours, actual
ordering parts and waiting for parts about 20 hours.
In the end and looking back this was not a complicated job. This is nothing more than
nuts, screws and bolts job and getting your sequences in correct order and making
sure the wiring gets routed and connected back properly. No special instrumentation
other than a torque wrench is needed. No bolts were broken, seals destroyed or
knuckles smashed in the replacing of the seal. Also drilled the weep hole for the clutch
I understand why a dealer wants large sums of money - this job is time consuming!!
My parts costs were minimal . . .
I was going to offer to come to Howard's to jump in however it looks like Howard if off
to the wild blue yonder or should I say - someone is going hit the road and will be
working in the near future!!