Not intending to hijack the thread, but while we are on the subject of brakes, I thought I might share a few tips I picked up while serving a 5 year apprenticeship as a mechanic. (Not wanting to preach to those who already know, but some guys/gals may learn a tip or two from this)
My recipe for trouble free brakes – When cleaning or replacing the pads, use a wire brush all over the pad, paying particular attention to the metal edge surfaces where it slides in the caliper, make sure they are dust, rust and grit free. Use either the wire brush or some sandpaper to remove the glaze from the surface of the pad.
If you find you have a problem with the brakes squealing, as some LT owners do, it is perfectly acceptable and safe to chamfer the edges of the pad surface by about an 1/8th of an inch. This saves the disc (rotor) from grabbing at the pad causing vibration which leads to squeal. You can use either a grinding wheel, Dremel, or a Bastard file, which ever you have, to remove the material. Makes little, if any difference to the life or performance of the pad.
While the pads are out, check that the pistons in the caliper move freely by squeezing ever so lightly on the brake lever, and move them back with a wooden or brass implement, never screwdrivers or anything steel. If one of the pistons does not move, try and hold the others back with wooden blocks and repeat the above procedure.
A sticky or lazy piston needs to be dealt with, if it does not come out with light pressure on the lever, it sure as hell will with heavy pressure, and will more than likely stay out after the lever is released causing the uneven pad wear we are talking about. The piston is actually pulled back into the caliper by the internal seal, we are talking hundreths of an inch here, so imperative that the piston is clean and water/salt free (dealing with this problem is another full story..lol)
There are a number of ‘brake seal safe’ lubricants on the market that can be skooshed (good Scottish word) behind the piston’s outer rubber seals, work the piston back and forward until it moves with light pressure on the lever.
When replacing the pads, put a light smear of copper grease on the back metal part of the pad, even if it has a plastic coating, and along the edges where it slides in the caliper. This not only helps the pad to move but dampens vibration, and lessens the tendency to squeal. If copper grease is not available, high melting point Molybdenum grease will do the job. Make sure each pad goes back to where it came from.
Also smear any anti-rattle shims, pins and clips that hold the pads in place with the copper grease. Makes for easy maintenance next time. Avoid at all costs getting any grease on the working surface of the pad, if you do, remove it with emery, sandpaper or a wire brush.
When I picked up my LT, it had that horrendous squeal from the back brake. Servicing them as per above cured it. Not sure whether it was the copper grease or the chamfering, I did it all at once, but it worked.
The above has served me well for 30 years, and all my cars and bikes get the treatment every 6K whether they need it or not .
Just realised I have written all this before checking the HOW, sorry if it's a duplicate.