Clutch won't stay diengaged - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 19 Old Oct 24th, 2012, 8:22 pm Thread Starter
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Clutch won't stay diengaged

I have a 99 LT with 40600 miles on it. I purchased it the first of July and have put 4000 of those miles on it. I have read several threads and searched much here and thank all of you for your time and experience.
I was off the bike for a month recovering from a broken elbow so the bike took a small vacation from the open rode The battery was low and had to charge it. No problems with anything until yesterday. at a stop light the bike just shut off. Didn't think much of it I have carpal tunnel and figured I just let out on the clutch. Did it again on the ride home from work yesterday and today also. I can sit with the clutch handle fully against the grip (released) and the bike will sit there for a minute maybe two before it starts pulling and once it starts you have little time to make it stop. I rode home tonight putting the bike into neutral at the stops so I could manage it back to the house. The clutch does not slip when the handle is fully let out(applied).

Can anyone give me some insight as to how to figure this out. Does anyone know of a BMW mechanic in the Richmond VA area. I hate to think what the dealer in Fredericksburg will charge to fix it.
I am handy but have no experience with these bikes. I really do not know where to begin.
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post #2 of 19 Old Oct 24th, 2012, 8:31 pm
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

Sounds like you have a small leak in either a hose or the slave cylinder. You could start by a simple bleed to make sure all the air is out of the system first. That's relatively simple. Do a search and you will find numerous posts on how its done. The slave is a completely different animal. Start with the simple things first, dont want to scare you off.LOL

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post #3 of 19 Old Oct 24th, 2012, 8:56 pm
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

DO NOT keep doing this, because if the slave has failed, a pretty common failure, your clutch is not far from being contaminated, if it is not already. Once that happens, a $300 to $500 slave cylin

If the fluid has gone down in the clutch master cylinder, you likely already have a contaminated clutch. If it has, check all the lines between the master and slave for external leaks, if you are REALLY lucky, this may be the problem.

If the master level has not gone down, then you are again lucky, and it is master cylinder piston seal leak, fairly inexpensive fix, as there is a rebuild kit for the master.

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post #4 of 19 Old Oct 24th, 2012, 9:15 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

I plan to ride my KLR to work for the duration of the repair. I had a plan to go on a trip for thanksgiving but that will be dependant on the repair. I watched the weep hole drilling videos and they made me realize I may not be ready for that much of an endeavor on my own.
I am scared the cost to repair and maintain her may bring an end to my love affair with the big girl.
I will try the bleeding yet I feel it will be for naught. I have not noticed any fluid loss and the sight glass is where I think it was since I bought the bike.
Looks like I need a manual and a lot more tools....... a lift would be helpful also I am guessing. Thanks for the thoughts. If you know of a member/mechanic in central VA I would like to talk to them.
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post #5 of 19 Old Oct 25th, 2012, 5:10 am Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

Bled the clutch. didn't help. If I had to venture a guess the slave would be my odds on favorite. No one talks about the clutch master giving any problems here. I am having a time using the sites search engine to find things but that may just be me.
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post #6 of 19 Old Oct 25th, 2012, 7:40 am
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

Was the clutch fluid brown or clear?

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post #7 of 19 Old Oct 25th, 2012, 12:49 pm
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

For what its worth last Saturday at the Ironhorse lodge in the Smoky Mountains I not only replaced a leaking tranny output shaft seal but I drilled the weep hole (inspected the the seal and slave while in there) on an 09 and it took less than three hours start to finish (there was a crowd watching and asking questions). There are just a few tools that are necessary to accomplish this but then you have already looked at the videos.

John
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post #8 of 19 Old Oct 25th, 2012, 3:00 pm
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

I've heard people talk well of George at Beemer Uber Alles in Manassas.

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post #9 of 19 Old Oct 25th, 2012, 8:02 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

I talked with Mortons and they said with out looking at the bike a figure of $800 for the slave installed. He said that if the fluid gets to the clutch all bets are off. I was describing the problem to a couple guys when I went to pick up my winter pants and the mechanic that hangs out there was telling me it is in about the same location as the ones on the Hyabusa. He has done several of them and was interested in helping. I am goint to get the kit and rebuild the clutch master but for now the bike is going to have to sit and stay. I miss it already. Hope the master is the culprit. THe thing is there is no noticable fluid loss so I may catch abreak.

Thanmks for all the info. I am hoping the wifi reaches the garage and when I start I will play the video and follow step by step the book.

BTW the fluid was clear not brown. It was flushed about a year ago while the bike was being painted. All the fluids were changed then. The owner took the fairings off and refitted them when he had finished the service.
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post #10 of 19 Old Oct 25th, 2012, 11:20 pm
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

That is a little high for a $150 part and three hours of labor. I have yet to see a master go bad, especially if the fluid is good.

John
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #11 of 19 Old Oct 26th, 2012, 5:35 am Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

If it were a car I would try to pinch off the line and see if the pressure stayed to determine the exact part to repair but I am just not sure on a BMW motorcycle, or any bike for that matter. This bike is the most like a car I have ever owned yet I am intimidated by it. Maybe I need to just lock the two of us in the garage and get aquainted with it. My fear is I will get in over my head and give up half way through. Have no clue why this bike scares me.
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post #12 of 19 Old Oct 26th, 2012, 8:00 am
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

Quote:
Originally Posted by willcanada
If it were a car I would try to pinch off the line and see if the pressure stayed to determine the exact part to repair but I am just not sure on a BMW motorcycle, or any bike for that matter. This bike is the most like a car I have ever owned yet I am intimidated by it. Maybe I need to just lock the two of us in the garage and get aquainted with it. My fear is I will get in over my head and give up half way through. Have no clue why this bike scares me.
I wholeheartedly relate to your feelings of intimidation. I felt the same to the point that I put off replacing my clutch and slave from February to late June. I ended up doing it and, with help from this community, had no major issues. I would not hesitate to do it again (although the thought of adjusting the valves scares the tar out of me!).

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post #13 of 19 Old Oct 27th, 2012, 3:49 pm
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

Quote:
Originally Posted by deputy5211
I wholeheartedly relate to your feelings of intimidation. I felt the same to the point that I put off replacing my clutch and slave from February to late June. I ended up doing it and, with help from this community, had no major issues. I would not hesitate to do it again (although the thought of adjusting the valves scares the tar out of me!).
I would be hesitant to do the clutch, but I did my valves this year and it wasn't a big deal. The hardest part was waiting for delivery of the 4 buckets I needed and paying $20 each for them! I didn't get the tensioner lock pin (drill bit) in place correctly the first time so the sprockets got pulled inward when they came off the camshafts. However, after the bike had set a day or two, it was very easy to push the tensioner downward with a blunt screwdriver and get the pin in place to make it easy to install the sprockets.

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post #14 of 19 Old Oct 28th, 2012, 7:03 am Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

I am hoping that by paying attention to the bikes symptoms I have avoided the need to replace the clutch. I am sure I need to adjust the valves on the next service though. Is there anything I should do while I am "there" with the bike apart on the back end. I figured I would take the opportunity to change the final drive fluid and install the new set of brakes I have been putting off doing until they really needed them and were not just noisy european brakes. I want to buy a lift to get the bike off the ground to fix her up. any one lift to avoid? Why do I feel I am opening a big can of worms with that question?
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post #15 of 19 Old Oct 28th, 2012, 8:17 am
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
For what its worth last Saturday at the Ironhorse lodge in the Smoky Mountains I not only replaced a leaking tranny output shaft seal but I drilled the weep hole (inspected the the seal and slave while in there) on an 09 and it took less than three hours start to finish (there was a crowd watching and asking questions). There are just a few tools that are necessary to accomplish this but then you have already looked at the videos.
Well John, sounds like you gave your audience one heck of a tech session, whether you intended to or not, but let's keep things in perspective; First, from your vast number of posts here, along with the immeasurable amount of quality advice you've contributed, one would wonder if you've had some experience as a professional mechanic or engineer. Second, was this your first time doing this repair? I'm guessing not. I applaud you for encouraging this man to attempt this repair himself, and a little encouragement is perhaps all he needs, but I'm willing to bet everyone would agree the first time anything is tried, whether it's baking chocolate chip cookies or overhauling an engine, takes a lot longer than successive attempts at same task.

I do agree with your assessment of the quote he was given. Sounds like someone's trying to rape someone else.

I am somewhat puzzled at WillCanada's comment about buying a lift, in comparison to his lack of willingness to pay to have a professional do the repair. While it would make some sense hearing it from a mechanic, who would be getting more bang for his buck because it wouldn't be the last time to use the lift, it does sound kind of odd coming from a person who doesn't sound like a professional mechanic.

My suggestion is to keep watching the videos, get a good manual, and dive into it. In other words, face your fears and conquer them. It will be self-gratifying on more than one level.

Jeff
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prior:
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post #16 of 19 Old Oct 28th, 2012, 8:42 am
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

Quote:
Originally Posted by willcanada
...I was describing the problem to a couple guys when I went to pick up my winter pants and the mechanic that hangs out there was telling me it is in about the same location as the ones on the Hyabusa. He has done several of them and was interested in helping....
I don't know this person you're mentioning, so this isn't to badmouth him, but be cautious of anyone who claims to be a mechanic, especially if they admit they haven't worked on this particular model. There's way too many people out there who call themselves a mechanic just because they've charged someone else in the past to work on their vehicle. A lot of times these kinds are willing to help for whatever reason, maybe in hopes of earning another buck, but then they get into it and fall on their laurels because they don't know what they're doing, but they're too prideful to admit it, so they keep at it until they [email protected]#k something up.
If this guy is any good at all, why wasn't he at work somewhere turning wrenches, fixing something? Unless of course, it was his day off.

Now, if it was someone like John here, or another with a "history", then jump at the chance anytime he offers his assistance. Otherwise, buyer beware. I've seen and worked with way too many self-professed mechanics who didn't know a spark plug from a glow plug- or a tire plug for that matter.

Jeff
Big D is my neck of the woods

99 K1200LT (don't need loud pipes w/ 8 spk. stereo)
08 HD wide glide
prior:
07 HD XL1200C (sold!
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post #17 of 19 Old Oct 29th, 2012, 5:36 am Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

To quell this discussion I will state that I am an ASE Recertified Master Tech. Thirty years working on cars and trucks. Much experience and confidence in my field. I love electrical work but do all repairs. The thought of getting the lift is two fold. I will be working on the bike to maintain it and I am fifty years old, work fifty hours a week and find it much better to keep from laying on the floor to accomplish any repair. I do find it interesting that with all the questions in my last post you seem to focus on a non question???? lastly, for the cost of the repair at the dealer I can get the part and the lift was the reasoning for the lift question. Thanks for not answering my question though.
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post #18 of 19 Old Oct 29th, 2012, 8:04 am
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

Quote:
Originally Posted by willcanada
...I am an ASE Recertified Master Tech. Thirty years working on cars and trucks. Much experience and confidence in my field...I do find it interesting that with all the questions in my last post you seem to focus on a non question????...Thanks for not answering my question though.
Hey, no problem. Glad I could help.
It's not every day someone creates a thread and sends out mixed signals, challenging the community to figure out what he wants. i.e. I would hope any 30 yr. ASE master tech would be a little more than just "handy". Also, usually when someone mentions how they would hate to think about what a dealership would charge for the repair, that gives some of us the impression the thought crossed your mind to have the repair completed by someone else. Oh yeah, and then there was the intimidation comments. Someone of your self-proclaimed stature might want to check himself if he's afraid of his own bike. Now if it was a customer's bike you were delving into, then I could see the logic, and it would lead credence to my previous comments about some so-called "mechanics" who get into things over their head. Your line of questioning gave at least me the impression you're not mechanically inclined (which isn't a bad thing), so I was trying to help you out, but being you're a 30 yr. tech who's 50 yrs. old, is it say to say you've been around the block a couple of times, so we don't have to worry about coddling you.

Regarding the questions, which one did you want most answered? the issue w/ the clutch? A P.O.C. in your neck of the woods? A brand of lift to not buy, or whether you've opened up a can of worms? I can say a definite "maybe" to answer the last one.

Welcome to the forum Mr. Canada.
And if you'd like, then by all means, consider the discussion quelled.

Jeff
Big D is my neck of the woods

99 K1200LT (don't need loud pipes w/ 8 spk. stereo)
08 HD wide glide
prior:
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post #19 of 19 Old Oct 29th, 2012, 3:39 pm
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Re: Clutch won't stay diengaged

Hi WillCanada, I got a Handy Sam1000 http://www.mile-x.com/handy-16000-motorcycle-lift.aspx the second time I had to take the gear box off my R1100GS. It made it so much easer with the lift than without. I have also used it a few times on my K1200LT for the same type of work. There are a few clones of this lift out there, & them may work as good as the Handy. But,...If I needed to get a lift again, I would probably get another Handy SAM 1000. Hope this is of help...& welcome aboard...

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