my speedometer stop working on 1999 k1200lt it jumps now.Does anyone know what could be wrong with it? It did this before but it started working but now it just jumps going from o-40 mph. other times it does nothing .I checked were the brake line changes from metal to rubber but every thing is ok there so I bought another speed o cable and replaced the one that was on the bike but it still does not work. One member wrote was there any other symptoms but everything works fine radio vol. control and cruise control is ok.

A known wiring problem on the early bikes, there is a wire tie that causes a short by pinching the wire against a frame weld under/near the righthand saddlebag.
I'll search for pics, they're around here somewhere....

Ahhh, this might help: http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showpost...6&postcount=32

And this has a good picture too: http://www.bmwlt.com/ubbthreads/show...&sb=5&o=7&vc=1

Are there any other symptoms, like no cruise control, no odometer, no speed adjusted volume on radio, no ABS brakes? The reason I ask is because loss of those things collectively is what I experienced when the rear ABS sensor on my 2004 failed earlier this summer. I learned from the folks here that this sensor provides signal affecting all of the speed related functions on the bike. The usual cause of failure is related to a broken wire, broken at the point where a zip tie is mechanically installed too tight near where the rear brake line changes from the metal to rubber. It is located behind the rear right passenger footpeg.

The fix for me was to replace the sensor salvaged from another bike I have. Others have opened the wire and soldered a splice into it.

Best wishes,

Edit: I see CharlieVT posted as I was writing. Good help.

Only on the 2002 and later. The earlier LT's got their speed signal from the speed sensor on top of the final drive.

I am new here and the 1999 does get the signal from on top of the final drive. I replace the speed o cable with a used one I bought off ebay but that one does not work ether.I am sure it can't be both cable r no good.The cable I taken off seems to good no cuts whatsoever I even ck with a meter from top to near the sensor that goes into the final drive but it did not show any brakes in the wires. do not know why the speed o jumps on occassion please help thank you

If you bought a used one it too was exposed to the tight cable tie and I have every expectation that it, too, could be bad. Verify by cutting into the sheath at the cable tie point and inspect the wires.

Trust the Zeiler.............

Okay, if it isn't the wiring breakage problem, here's another known problem.
The sending ring in the final drive can become loose from it seat.

How to check: remove the speedo sensor from the final drive housing. To remove the sensor, remove the retaining fastener and then gently lever the sensor up out of the housing. Careful, it is possible to break the sensor.

Once the sensor is removed, with the bike on the center stand and the transmission in neutral, rotate the rear wheel by hand. Look into the speedo sensor hole with a good light, you should see the sending ring rotating past the hole. Now stop rotating the wheel, and with a small tool try and spin the sending ring with the tool. You are trying to establish if the sending ring is secure or loose.

If loose, it is a rare occurrence. The cause of a loose speedo sending ring is a "creeping" input pinion needle bearing race having worn it way into interfering with the speedo sending ring and knocking it loose.

Again, I only remember this problem being reported once, so it is uncommon. Usually a creeping input pinion needle bearing race is discovered for reasons other than the speedo sending ring coming loose.

Addendum: I think that if the speedometer is intermittent due to wiring breakage or loose sending ring, the cruise control won't work properly since cruise control circuit depends on input from speedo sensor. If you are sure the cruise control is working properly under all circumstances, it would seem that your speedo problem is with the speedometer itself and not with the input signal.

HTH

Could be a loose ground at the tie point under the dash.

Since you have a meter make sure the sensor shows continuity between the two poles where it plugs in. You will need to go to a higher ohm setting to confirm this. No continuity means a broken wire in the loom or a broken coil wire in the sensor itself.

If diagnosis points to a possibly bad speedo, let me know as I have a spare complete panel sitting here you could try.

Hi all. Another victim of this problem here. Needle on speedometer hovers around 20mph and moves erratically. Cruise does not work. Odometer does not work.
My mechanic diagnosed faulty sensor, so we have just fitted new sensor and cable.
Problem still exists. Initially after fitting new sensor, we got no movement at all on speedometer. Fiddled with sensor and re-tightened and then got flickering needle again.
I suppose the next thing to check is the turning ring within the final drive housing!!

I had a similar problem on mine (2007 model). It took the dealer 3 weeks to figure it out. They replaced all sensors, cables, tried a different dashboard, finally they replaced the ABS module and it all started to work.
Luckily the bike was still under warranty. I say luckily, because ABS module is expensive and the labor on the top of that...
BJ

Thanks Charlie!!
Wouldn't have thought of the sensing ring coming lose! But it is!! Followed your suggestions and found that, although the ring turned with the wheel, we could easily stop it. So we have located the problem on my 2000 LT. That's the good news!! Unfortunately this sensing ring does not seem to be available separately, so one option is to replace the complete assembly including ring gear/crown wheel, etc. Expensive in parts and labor!
Alternatively try and source a second hand final drive and swop them out.
Any thought on this MUCH appreciated - bear in mind that I am in Ireland!

I am sure Curtis will chime in but you can open the drive up and clean the area where the speedo ring is and apply some loctite or stake the ring with a punch. It does not need much to hold it in place. This assumes you don't have "creeping" pinion race that he described. Worth a look and only costs the oil you loose when you open it up.