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post #1 of 47 Old Sep 26th, 2012, 8:45 pm Thread Starter
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Typical 05+ FD failure

Yup sure enough I changed the oil last night and it was dark compared to the gear box oil. Both were 20K miles old. Guess I got out of the habit of changing it every 3k to inspect. There was also a noticable wobble to the rear wheel, no grinding and it was very smooth.

Any way tear down shows the taper bearing had spun on the shaft and "made" a lot of aluminum. The bearing ID is listed as 25mm. The spindle as measured at the base was near 25 so there was some wear there. The worn area measured 24.26mm.

The wobble was not there after my last tire change @ 73K , at least I did not notice it. The bike now has 76K on it.

Here are a few pictures.

I am putting the spare FD on for now but I am toying with the idea of machining the spindle down and making a sleeve to press on and install a new bearing. No reason it wouldn't work.
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John
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post #2 of 47 Old Sep 26th, 2012, 8:55 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

John....could you let us in on your step by step process as you proceed? I've watched Charlie's video but the more times I see it done the more confidence it gives me for when it's my turn.

Always appreciate your posts and knowlege!

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post #3 of 47 Old Sep 26th, 2012, 8:59 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

This is not the typical 99-2003 large bearing failure that so many have experianced but rather the more rare and elusive small taper bearing spin out. Normaly this requires a complete gear set change out ($685) plus all the shimming and setting making it cheaper to buy a used drive. I am challenged by the though of a sleeve fix for this and will, of course, post the details and develop a procedure for it.

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post #4 of 47 Old Sep 26th, 2012, 9:15 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

I would clean every bit of oil off it & wipe both the OD & ID surface with lacquer thinner. Then I would spray a Q-Tip with Loctite primer & coat both the OD & ID surface. Then I would coat both OD & ID surface with Loctite 620 (high temp retaining compound ) & install the bearing & wipe off any excess Lockite.

Let it cure for at least 24 hrs. ( more if you have time ) & then heat to between 120 & 150 F. Let it cure for another 24 hrs. Then I would go about rebuilding the FD as usual.

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post #5 of 47 Old Sep 26th, 2012, 9:58 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

aluminum sleeve or steel sleeve ?

diffferent rates of expansion

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post #6 of 47 Old Sep 26th, 2012, 10:02 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Hi John, Loctite makes a neat product for filling gaps up to .5mm. It is for spun bearings. It sounds like you have a lathe. I would put her on the lathe and knurl the shaft, then use this to reset it.
https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNA...ile/660-EN.pdf


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post #7 of 47 Old Sep 26th, 2012, 10:07 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Wow! That's some gap! After checking out your drawing, how about some tig or mig action and then a trip to the lathe followed by the Loctite?


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post #8 of 47 Old Sep 26th, 2012, 11:54 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

John,

I wouldn't trust Loctite to fill that gap, or for that matter any epoxy. A sleeve sounds like a good idea, but assuming you turn that stub shaft down to 24mm to fit a 25mm OD sleeve, the bending stress on that shaft increases by about 22% and the shear stress by about 8%. One will have to do a more detailed analysis to see whether that is really an issue, nevertheless it has a safety implication. Personally I think an 0.5mm thick steel sleeve is too thin, but trimming more from the shaft will increase those stresses even further. Probably worth a detailed analysis.

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post #9 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 1:00 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

John - I'd go with a machined steel sleeve made of 4130 chrome-moly tubing. Go for a heavy shrink (like .002"/") onto the alum shaft & machine the OD after the shrink job. For shrinking, you should be able to slip it together if the sleeve temperature is ~ 400 degF more than the alum hub. Liquid N2 on the hub would really help if it is readily available around you.

Locktite etc won't do it. Do you have lathe access? I have 1" seamless 4130 tubing. PM me if interested. I O U one.
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post #10 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 4:14 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Hi John, nice idea to work with a sleeve, but....
There are to many shrink fits and the wallthickness is to thin to hold the pressure.
In my opinion is there a big chance to find a bearing with a smaller ID, 24 or 23 mm. Should not be really a problem.
U can't turn the shaft to far down because its get to weak.
Maybe gives you some ideas.

Manfred
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post #11 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 6:07 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Interesting that you noticed a wheel wobble. It seems that damage at the tapered roller bearing is much more likely so result in a detectable wobble than is damage at the crownwheel bearing.

I have used Loctite 660 to seat tapered roller bearings when I have found the loose, but have never done that if there was detectable wobble of the bearing race on the aluminum shaft.

The Loctite 660 spec sheet says that the material is good for the size gap that you are reporting, but the challenge is to ensure that the bearing is properly aligned when the Loctite is setting up. I wonder if assembling the FD before the Loctite is set would allow for proper alignment.




Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
Yup sure enough I changed the oil last night and it was dark compared to the gear box oil. Both were 20K miles old. Guess I got out of the habit of changing it every 3k to inspect. There was also a noticable wobble to the rear wheel, no grinding and it was very smooth.

Any way tear down shows the taper bearing had spun on the shaft and "made" a lot of aluminum. The bearing ID is listed as 25mm. The spindle as measured at the base was near 25 so there was some wear there. The worn area measured 24.26mm.

The wobble was not there after my last tire change @ 73K , at least I did not notice it. The bike now has 76K on it.

Here are a few pictures.

I am putting the spare FD on for now but I am toying with the idea of machining the spindle down and making a sleeve to press on and install a new bearing. No reason it wouldn't work.
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post #12 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 8:48 am Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Lots of great ideas from the group. I will have to do some more analysis before I choose a path. I have another trashed crown wheel to cut into to determine thickness of material so i should have good data to work with.

John
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post #13 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 11:47 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

John
The aluminum gets thicker the farther in towards the crown gear . Turn the bearing journal down to flush and bore the remaining aluminum to a dimension tolerable for the load and wall remaining. Make a stub shaft with an interference fit and press this into the hub. Then setup in centers and grind the journal to dimension for the bearing.
I did one like this for a friend a while back, He has 50,000 miles on it so far with no problems. We have kept a close eye on it and have not seen any changes.
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post #14 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 11:50 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

John
I'll drag out the nomenclature and get the dimensions if you need them.
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post #15 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 12:13 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1dbweldor
....Turn the bearing journal down to flush and bore the remaining aluminum to a dimension tolerable for the load and wall remaining. Make a stub shaft with an interference fit and press this into the hub. Then setup in centers and grind the journal to dimension for the bearing....
That really does sound like a viable solution. I had thought of a skilled welder building the aluminum shaft up and then turning it down, but don't know what that might do the the metal. Drilling for a replacment shaft is a really neat ideal.

I wish I had machinist skills and a good lathe.
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post #16 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 12:41 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

On a related topic....... I saw an interesting way to heat the crown bearing for assembly yesterday. Slow cooker, gear oil, and a piece of safety wire attached to the bearing for removal from the hot oil. Pure genius, and a bunch faster than an oven if the oil is pre-heated.


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post #17 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 1:05 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Sounds like a great excuse to buy another LT
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post #18 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 1:24 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1dbweldor
John
I'll drag out the nomenclature and get the dimensions if you need them.
Please do as this sounds like the best option. I respect your advice greatly.

John
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post #19 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 8:30 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieVT
That really does sound like a viable solution. I had thought of a skilled welder building the aluminum shaft up and then turning it down, but don't know what that might do the the metal. Drilling for a replacment shaft is a really neat ideal.

I wish I had machinist skills and a good lathe.
John - I do have a lathe & could bore and measure a steel sleeve that would be 25.4 mm stock outside dia. I was asking if you had lathe access to do the final OD machining of the hub/axle after the parts are shrunk together.

That shaft is hard aircraft quality aluminum, which has excellent machining properties. It is impossible to even approach the physical specs of a such an aluminum alloy with aluminum weld material. That's why aircraft are never welded aluminum. They always go either riveted aluminum sheet or are welded from 4130 chrome moly steel.

And - Don't machine away any of the original centers. It will be very difficult to recreate them to anywhere near the accuracy needed in this assembly, unless you start with a whole new block of aluminum (which I supposed could be done).

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post #20 of 47 Old Sep 27th, 2012, 8:42 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Thanks. I do have access to both a lathe and a skilled machinist. One other item I noticed was the pinion inner race had worked its way off the pinion tip and has started rubbing though the case. Two whammies at once. Also looks like there was wear at the shim as well so I will have redo the backlash setting as well as pull the pinion to reseat the race. I think I would rather go riding...

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post #21 of 47 Old Sep 28th, 2012, 6:48 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
.... One other item I noticed was the pinion inner race had worked its way off the pinion tip and has started rubbing though the case. ...
Okay John, now the group can benefit from your experience and insight regarding the "creeping pinion inner needle bearing race".

All I have ever done with these is disassemble the input pinion assembly, put the pinion shaft in the shop press and press the race back home. I always figured, whatever the mileage on the FD, pressing the race home would give al least that many miles again.

I had thought about using a spot of Loctite at the base of the race before pressing it home, but never did it; and I doubt it would have made any difference. I've never found this race to be lacking a good interference fit; it always took the shop press to press the race home. Whatever the forces that are causing the race to creep, I didn't think a drop of Loctite was going to make a difference.

Another thought I had was to place a couple small welds at the inner interface of the race and the shaft at the end of the shaft. That is something I could have done with Mig or Tig, but I'm not enough of a metalurgist to know what damage I'd be doing to the metals. Consequently, I abstained and never did it.

Any thoughts?
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post #22 of 47 Old Sep 28th, 2012, 7:19 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Looking at the picture, I feel the aluminum is plenty thick enough there to sleeve it. I would turn the aluminum to approx 23 mm, bore a steel sleeve for press/shrink fit, and then turn the OD to the press fit size needed for the bearing.

One thing: When turning the aluminum down for the sleeve, leave a nice radius at the face, not a sharp corner. Chamfer or radius the end of the steel sleeve to clear it when pressed on. Sharp corners promote stress cracking.

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post #23 of 47 Old Sep 28th, 2012, 10:08 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

You all are talking Soooooooo far above my head it is not funny. That said, it is extremely interesting and educational. I guess it is the nomenclature that is throwing me more than anything, as I have zero machining knowledge.

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post #24 of 47 Old Sep 28th, 2012, 7:18 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Plan of attack is to get the spare drive ready for extended service. It is from an 05 that was triked and it has been on several different bikes so far but with less than 10K over all on it. I will pull the taper bearing and measure the interference fit. This data will be used for the repair of the original drive. Then I will re-install the taper bearing with Loctite High Strength Sleeve Retainer (good to 400F). That should keep this one in place, then re-install on the bke and go for a ride. (Yeah)

Next on the original drive I'll pull the pinion out and remove the stub race and reinstall using the Loctite Green Sleeve Retainer. Put that back together and take the hub to my machinist and see what we can do by knurling the shaft. That may be good enough to get me back in business. Failing that I will go with the sleeve approach. If that does not work ot I can always go with the 1dbweldor suggestion. Once I have that taken care of I will need to re-shim the taper bearing to set the backlash. Then I will have to re-measure for the pre load shims - whew! Guess I need to replace the big bearing as well - no telling the stresses it encounterd during the "wobble" period.


First things first get the bike back to riding condition.

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post #25 of 47 Old Sep 28th, 2012, 7:28 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by deputy5211
You all are talking Soooooooo far above my head it is not funny. That said, it is extremely interesting and educational. I guess it is the nomenclature that is throwing me more than anything, as I have zero machining knowledge.
I was thinking the same thing, Tony... except for me it's interesting but not so educational because I don't have the background to understand what this is about. It's an impressive discussion, and one that will increase the community's collective knowledge, and that's good for all of us.


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post #26 of 47 Old Sep 28th, 2012, 7:31 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by hschisler
I was thinking the same thing, Tony... except for me it's interesting but not so educational because I don't have the background to understand what this is about. It's an impressive discussion, and one that will increase the community's collective knowledge, and that's good for all of us.

I'll take pictures for all the "challenged" members and document what happens in layman's terms.

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post #27 of 47 Old Sep 29th, 2012, 10:18 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
I'll take pictures for all the "challenged" members and document what happens in layman's terms.
That's nice of you to be considerate of those of us that are........"challenged".
Thanks!

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post #28 of 47 Old Sep 29th, 2012, 11:22 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Now I have an idea of what "dark" oil is.

I'm fixing to (I'm a Texan) change the FD lube along with engine oil at the 5K interval. My '03 has 83K miles on the clock.

Thanks for the pictures and let us know how it goes.

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post #29 of 47 Old Sep 29th, 2012, 1:07 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

John, I would absolutely replace the large bearing. It would have been laterally loaded due to the axle wear. While it would take the torque for awhile, I bet there's damage in the races and/or balls.


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post #30 of 47 Old Sep 29th, 2012, 2:14 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

If you can get a nice knurl that will be tight enough for a decent interference fit, then the green locktite should do the trick , super clean with laquer thinner.

Have repaired similiar problems in Class 8 diffs, and had them last to next overhaul, several hundred thousand miles later. Good sleeve repair would be first choice though.

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post #31 of 47 Old Sep 29th, 2012, 6:30 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Just a quick update as I just got back from a ride. Observations - the wobble during up and down shifting that gradually appeared (and was ignored - frog in the boiling water) is now gone. I pulled the spare drive apart and took off the bearing. The interferece fit was only 0.001 " and it looked like only 3/4 of the bearing was even making contact with the spindle. Cleaned it up with acetone and reinstalled with the green loctite sleeve retainer. Hope it never moves again. I did video the preocess of removing and reinstalling the taper bearing. Guess it will be called the post 05 pre-emptive rebuild since most of the 05 + failures have been this bearing spinning. I'll post it when I get a chance to edit it. It is not great as I smeared a little oil on the lens and didn't notice it until I was done.

Now on to the project drive.

In preparation for installing the pinion I used my toaster over to heat the entire case to 120C and after installing the pinion I noticed the taper race was very easy to slide out. Checked the temp with my non-contact and it had cooled down to 145 F. I measured my rear drive after the ride and it was 136 F. I think I am begining to see why these are spining.
Pulled the subject drive pinion and removed the race and reinstalled it as well with the loctite. I am waiting now for a new taper bearing before proceding the rest of the way. Will look at knurling first but have Niel in the wings with a 4130 sleeve.

Added a few pics
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John
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post #32 of 47 Old Sep 29th, 2012, 6:55 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
... I pulled the spare drive apart and took off the bearing. The interferece fit was only 0.001 " and it looked like only 3/4 of the bearing was even making contact with the spindle. .... Guess it will be called the post 05 pre-emptive rebuild since most of the 05 + failures have been this bearing spinning....
Thanks for posting your observations.

I wonder what interference BMW engineers intended for the tapered roller bearing. Based on my experience, a lot of them are loose, meaning they just fall or pull off with finger force. This observation was made on a number of drives opened for repair or preemptive replacement of the crownwheel bearing and the loose tapered roller bearing was an incidental finding. I didn't keep count but there were enough to suggest to me that the loose tapered roller bearing is common.

I have wondered under what preload conditions these bearing start to spin.

Your posts are a good reminder to anyone considering rebuilding a FD to check for both the spinning inner tapered roller bearing race and the creeping pinion needle bearing race.
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post #33 of 47 Old Sep 30th, 2012, 11:56 am Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by deanwoolsey
John, I would absolutely replace the large bearing. It would have been laterally loaded due to the axle wear. While it would take the torque for awhile, I bet there's damage in the races and/or balls.
I pulled the bearing and under 100x inspection all I saw was the dimples from using a cold chisel to get the puller under it. There might have been some tiny piting but no sign of spalling damage starting. Probably could have left it on but why not start with fresh bearings after 76 K miles. Glad I know as this would have haunted me on long trip anyway.

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post #34 of 47 Old Oct 8th, 2012, 6:18 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure UPDATE

Success!

Took the ring gear assy to my favorite machinist today and truned the shaft down to a press fit for the sleeve Niel made for me out of 4130 seamless tubing. Pressed the sleeve on with Loctite sleeve retainer and then machined the OD of the sleeve for a press fit on the taper bearing.

Photo one shows the first attempt to get the assy dialed in on the old Cadilac lathe with the bad spindle bearings. Best we could do is 0.008" to 0.005" off. (He is a good machinist but the lathe is crappy for precision work) Next we made a mandrel to fit in the wheel side of the hub, then lightly loaded it with the live tail stock. This allowed us to dial it in to 0.0005"

We had to machine the stub down to be a press fit to the sleeve and the sleeve was 0.953". We only took off 0.002 to clean it up from the wobble wear and that put us right on the mark for a press fit (0.954"). Next it was over to the arbor press where we put Loctite on the stub and the sleeve and pressed it on. It started to go a little crooked at first but once I rammed it home she lined right up. Niel had also made a nice little arbor to help with the pressing.

Next it was back into the lathe for the final machining down from 1.005+ to a press fit for the bearing. We took it down to 0.985 and cleaned up the excess on the end while putting a good radius for the bearing to start on.

In the final picture you see that we only machined the stub as far down to where the shim normally sits, that way we preserved the original radius for the area. You can see the transition from the original material to the sleeve material. This ensures that we did not introduce any new stress in the part. Now the sleeve is but a mear 0.032" in thickness. After the Loctite fully cures I will install the bearing and check the backlash of the rear drive. Details in the next installment.
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
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post #35 of 47 Old Oct 8th, 2012, 7:12 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

John
It looks pretty good to me. If that means anything. Pay close attention to the roar roar roar sound when you put it on under power. Reason I say this, lathes will only turn so true when using cutters. But dead nuts when grinding. These final drives are considered high speed gears and with that term goes a more precise tolerrance between the gears. Meaning loose,tight loose tightn in rotation. Hopefully that is not the case here. When you set up your backlash check it in 4 locations on the ring gear. If the difference is not more than a couple tenths then should be good. However if it is more I would do things differently.
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post #36 of 47 Old Oct 8th, 2012, 7:41 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Good point. I will check the backlash at several points and make a decision based on that to move forward. Thanks.

John
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2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
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post #37 of 47 Old Oct 27th, 2012, 7:53 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Well I thought that the metal removed from the shim land area to clean it up was going to need to be made up by a bigger shim. I asked for and got a 2.7 mm from Curtis and when I installed it and checked the back lash it was excessive, about 0.012 and the spec is 0.0028 to 0.0068. So I pulled the taper bearing and reinstalled the original 2.5 mm shim.

That checked out as 0.006 mm back lash. It was consistent at 4 points around the circumference. I then checked the pre load measurement and went with a shim that produced 0.07 mm of preload. She is all buttoned up and ready to go back on the bike.

Here is the jig I made up to check the back lash.
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John
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2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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post #38 of 47 Old Oct 28th, 2012, 8:33 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Damn, I find reading about this stuff fascinating but I then have the realization that as you gear head guys get more into these final drive tear downs, analysis and re-builds, that the failure rate should be more like 96%, due to all the apparent engineering and fitment short comings in these drives. It just seems like a matter of time before a failure of some fashion will come about. My question is after a 3K FD oil change should the oil look like it did when it went in or should there be some discoloration, dark appearance.
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post #39 of 47 Old Oct 28th, 2012, 3:20 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

If you look back at the first post the transmission oil was slightly more amber coming out than when it went in. Normal. If the rear drive oil is noticably darker then I would open it up and check the taper bearing. No special tools needed to do this. If you catch it early you can fix the taper bearing with some Loctite 660. I waited too long (20K miles) and lost too much metal for the 660 to work.

John
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post #40 of 47 Old Oct 28th, 2012, 9:40 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Thanks guys for all the information ;not that I really understand any of it.
But do understand how dark my oil should not be;and I do now who to call on if I have troulble with my final. THANKS AGAIN GUYS GARY
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post #41 of 47 Old Oct 29th, 2012, 12:06 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

I should point out that just dark should not cause a panic. Look again at the first post and the residue on the side of the darker container. That is aluminum power that is sticking to the side of the container. Dark alone (translucent) is not a reliable indicator of harm unless you can't see though it. Also there was a noticible "wobble" felt at the wheel that is normally not present in the large bearing failure. Also the drive felt very smooth as I rotated the wheel.

John
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2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
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post #42 of 47 Old Oct 29th, 2012, 4:54 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

To determine between suspected aluminium in the oil and ferrous metal (steel / iron), take an oil sample and place it in a clear plastic bottle (specimin bottle), then place a very strong magnet at the side of the bottle (I tape the magnet to the side). Leave it for approximately 2 hours then re-check. The oil will be crystal clear if the particles are all ferrous and they will be stuck over at or near to the magnet. If you have aluminium there will be no change in the appearance. I used this technique after the oil lab gave me a reading of 69 ppm ferrous metals and said all was good. Cutting up and examining the 61917 bearing it could be seen with a strong magnifying glass that the raweways were already beginning to break down (micro pitting and indentations where the particles were being rolled into the surfaces).

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post #43 of 47 Old Nov 4th, 2012, 1:44 pm
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Damn it John! I was better off not knowing . Can I fix this? And what tools do I need? Those are magnets taped to the sides, waiting to see if there is any attraction.
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post #44 of 47 Old Nov 4th, 2012, 10:33 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

I would not panic just yet that looks like dark oil to me - not light oil infused with aluminum. Roll the oil up on the side of the container and see what is left behind when you set it back down. Go back and look at the first post and see the residue on the side of my container.

If there is a residue on the side then proceed. Do the 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock wiggle test on the rear wheel. If the taper bearing is loose on the shaft you will feel a distinct wobble. Failing the wiggle test just pull the wheel, rotor and caliper and open up the drive on the bike. It will be real evident when you pull the cover/crown wheel assy out of the case. The taper bearing will just slide right off.

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post #45 of 47 Old Nov 5th, 2012, 1:01 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

OK, so no residue and no wobble; only the tiniest perseptible amount of play, maybe 1/32" or less. This is the second gear oil change that looked like this; this one after only 6k miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
I would not panic just yet that looks like dark oil to me - not light oil infused with aluminum. Roll the oil up on the side of the container and see what is left behind when you set it back down. Go back and look at the first post and see the residue on the side of my container.

If there is a residue on the side then proceed. Do the 3 o'clock - 9 o'clock wiggle test on the rear wheel. If the taper bearing is loose on the shaft you will feel a distinct wobble. Failing the wiggle test just pull the wheel, rotor and caliper and open up the drive on the bike. It will be real evident when you pull the cover/crown wheel assy out of the case. The taper bearing will just slide right off.

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post #46 of 47 Old Nov 5th, 2012, 6:11 am
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by smahon
OK, so no residue and no wobble; only the tiniest perseptible amount of play, maybe 1/32" or less. This is the second gear oil change that looked like this; this one after only 6k miles.
I am of the opinion that any perceptible wobble on the K1200LT final drive is not a good thing. If the wobble is in the FD then there is a final drive problem.

Sometimes the wobble is in the pivot bearings and the FD is fine.

Last edited by CharlieVT; Nov 5th, 2012 at 6:44 am.
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post #47 of 47 Old Nov 5th, 2012, 12:30 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Typical 05+ FD failure

I agree with Curtis. Check again with a helper. Have them wiggle the wheel while you feel the rotor to caliper interface for movement. If you feel movement itis worth pulling her apart like I said previously. If you feel none then check the FD to Swing Arm interface while the helper wiggles the wheel. That means you need to re-set the preload on the pivot bearings.

John
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2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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