Fluid change questions - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 10 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 7:25 pm Thread Starter
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Fluid change questions

Ok so I just replaced my spark plugs and I cannot drive the bike due to winter. I need to change the engine oil, the gear box, and final drive oil. I understand those should be done when at normal operating temperature.

Is it ok just put the bike on the center stand and idle it until warm?

For the gear box and final drive fluid would you have the bike on the center stand and put it in gear and let the rear wheel rotate to warm those fluids up or what?

Thanks again, bear with me as all this is new to me and I do not want to mistreat the LT, maybe I think to much and should just do. Cal
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post #2 of 10 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 7:39 pm
 
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Sound good, just do it.
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post #3 of 10 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 7:55 pm
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Originally Posted by camtr
Ok so I just replaced my spark plugs and I cannot drive the bike due to winter. I need to change the engine oil, the gear box, and final drive oil. I understand those should be done when at normal operating temperature.

Is it ok just put the bike on the center stand and idle it until warm?

For the gear box and final drive fluid would you have the bike on the center stand and put it in gear and let the rear wheel rotate to warm those fluids up or what?

Thanks again, bear with me as all this is new to me and I do not want to mistreat the LT, maybe I think to much and should just do. Cal
Cal - I don't know what the LT gurus are gonna say, butt if it were me, I'd wait a bit to do those fluid changes until I could git on the road and do a nice warm up ride. Forsaking that, then I'd just go ahead and change 'em without warming up the bike - just open the drain plugs and let 'em drip 'til they don't drip any more. I think one of the purposes of changing the fluids while warm is to allow for as much of the fluid to drain from galleys and crevices as possible, bringing out any crud or smoodge with it, rather than cling there and mix in with the new fluid. In your case, if the bike has been setting for quite a while, most of the fluids have already drained down to the lowest point in the units. Prolly won't be much left if you're garage is not freezing, and you do the change there. While some folks drain the engine oil just thru the filter cover plate, I'd go ahead and use the drain plug in addition. That'll let another coupla tablespoons drain out, given time.

That idling thang, from what I understand, is just not good for this bike and is discouraged by most, including the maker. Keep an eye out for the info to come from the more knowledgeable inhabitants of this asylum - they'll be on here soon!!! Good luck, Cal.
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post #4 of 10 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 8:00 pm
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Dick is spot on. No warm up necessary. BMW does not recommend idling the bike



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post #5 of 10 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 8:59 pm
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Correct me if I'm wrong here, folks, but if you put the bike on the center stand, start it, and put it in gear so the rear wheel will rotate, won't that cause an ABS fault ('cause the rear wheel is turning & the front wheel ain't) that only your dealer can clear? If so ... not good.

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post #6 of 10 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 9:00 pm
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both my LTs did not set an ABS fault when run on center stand with bike in gear.



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post #7 of 10 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 9:02 pm
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When I need to change fluids in the dead of winter. I just use my little electric heater and point it at the crankcase or rear drive or trans and let it warm up for an hour or so and then let it drain for a full day. After all, you're not in a hurry. That'll get it good enough...

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post #8 of 10 Old Mar 29th, 2006, 1:51 am
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If the ABS hasn't finished it's self test (because the front wheel never moves), then there's no fault. If the bike is rolled so that both wheels move, then you run it on the center stand, you'll get the fault.

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post #9 of 10 Old Mar 29th, 2006, 9:00 am
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I am with Dick on this. Wait until you can run it up to temp properly. The gunk is at the bottom and if you just heat it up and drain it the gunk is still there in high concentration in that wee bit that won't come out. Better to dilute it through good circulation before draining. Having said that - one time would probably not cause a problem just don't make a habit of it.

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post #10 of 10 Old Mar 30th, 2006, 1:01 pm
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The point of warming things up by riding the bike, is not only related to the temperature of the fluid (sure warmer fluid is less viscous and as such, drains faster), but it's really about getting all of the contaminants suspended in the fluid. When the bikes sits, some contaminents will settle to the bottom and some will adhere to the internal surfaces...unless agitated (by riding) into suspension.

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