What About My Used Spark Plugs - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 7 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 5:06 pm Thread Starter
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What About My Used Spark Plugs

I just replaced my spark Plugs and the two closest to the front of the LT had a darker brown to black colored electrode and the threads were wet and smelled like gas. The other two were fairly dry with about the same colored tip. When you look at the spark plug hole into the cylinder you could see a very small amount of thin brownish liquid (gas I think) leak out.

I don't think the sparks plugs were ever changed until now and the LT had 14,500 miles on it. I should also say that just prior to changing the spark plugs I changed the coolant so I had the LT idling for several minutes off and on. To me it seems maybe there is two much fuel. The LT sounds fine to me when it runs.

Is this normal and if not what should I do or check.

I will try to attach photos.

Thanks Cal.
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post #2 of 7 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 5:39 pm
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When I changed my factory plugs, each was a slightly different color.

May be it is an old wives tale, but I only install plugs when the block is at room temp.

Bob
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post #3 of 7 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 5:39 pm
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Fuel injected engines use a rich mixture at start-up. If you don't run the motor for a while they tend to appear rich, or flood the motor. How does your bike run normally, & is your gas milage good? If the bike runs good & you get good gas milage, I'd not worry about it. But I would look for less expensive spark plugs..............
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post #4 of 7 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 5:40 pm
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The way to check spark plugs for indications of engine tuning/wear is to run the engine under load, at temperature, not idling, kill it before it idles much at all, then pull the plugs.

I used to jet my BSA when I changed things by taking the jets and a spark plug wrench with me, running the engine under near full throttle for at least 20 seconds, pull the clutch in and kill the engine simultaneously, coast to the side of the street, pull and read the plugs, then jet up or down depending on the plug color.

Idling engines rarely distribute fuel evenly, or burn the same cylinder to cylinder due to compression differences etc.

Since the LT requires a bit more dismantling to get to the plugs, maybe you could go down the street from your home, come back with a pretty high throttle setting in 4th or 5th gear, pull the clutch/kill the engine and coast into your driveway for the check.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

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post #5 of 7 Old Mar 28th, 2006, 6:58 pm Thread Starter
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I just recently bought the bike and live in Minnesota, I cannot drive it due to the snow, mud, ect. I have not drove it other than to test it before I bought it last fall and that was only for about 6 miles.

The Bike seems to run fine and I am told it gets good mileage. The only times it has ran in the past few months is idling in the garage.

It sounds to me from the replies I have received that the wetness on the plugs might be normal considering the idling.

Thank you for the information and assistance.
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post #6 of 7 Old Mar 29th, 2006, 12:21 am
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BTW.. if you try the drive/kill procedure, please use the "Kill switch" on the right grip, that way you will still have the ABS brakes...

...............
J.M.J...
Dcn Channing

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post #7 of 7 Old Mar 29th, 2006, 6:45 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dshealey
The way to check spark plugs for indications of engine tuning/wear is to run the engine under load, at temperature, not idling, kill it before it idles much at all, then pull the plugs.

I used to jet my BSA when I changed things by taking the jets and a spark plug wrench with me, running the engine under near full throttle for at least 20 seconds, pull the clutch in and kill the engine simultaneously, coast to the side of the street, pull and read the plugs, then jet up or down depending on the plug color.

Idling engines rarely distribute fuel evenly, or burn the same cylinder to cylinder due to compression differences etc.

Since the LT requires a bit more dismantling to get to the plugs, maybe you could go down the street from your home, come back with a pretty high throttle setting in 4th or 5th gear, pull the clutch/kill the engine and coast into your driveway for the check.

It's a good idea to idle the engine for a few seconds after high-load. This cools the exhaust valves by letting each of them contact their respective seats a few times, transferring heat from the valve head to the seat. I've done full-load "throttle chops" to check the plugs and have ended up with slightly warped valves. Think about it, if you chop it at full-load and shut the engine off, you'll have at least one super hot exhaust valve sticking out there. My experience is from an air-cooled drag racing engine, not a BMW.....my .02......a few seconds of idling won't influence the plug reading much.....just my .02....
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