Bleeding Brakes - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 9 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 6:22 pm Thread Starter
 
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Red face Bleeding Brakes

Have just been looking at some DIY parts on google for bleeding brakes. Under BMW it says that you have to bleed the modulator and caliper, whereas I thought that you only needed to do the brake calipers.

Am I missing something here?
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post #2 of 9 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 6:40 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin1952
Have just been looking at some DIY parts on google for bleeding brakes. Under BMW it says that you have to bleed the modulator and caliper, whereas I thought that you only needed to do the brake calipers.

Am I missing something here?
Colin,

By your byline you mention a 1999 LT. Up through 2001 all you do is just bleed at the calipers. 2002 and later you have to bleed both as it has to do with the integral brakes.

HTH

On His Ride,
Steve
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post #3 of 9 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 6:45 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Steve. Love those non-integral brakes.
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post #4 of 9 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 7:41 pm Thread Starter
 
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Red face

Have just purchased the speed bleeders from the US. When they have arrived and been installed, do the calipers have to be removed from the bike, or do you bleed the fluid with them in place?
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post #5 of 9 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 7:49 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin1952
Have just purchased the speed bleeders from the US. When they have arrived and been installed, do the calipers have to be removed from the bike, or do you bleed the fluid with them in place?
Bleed them with everything in place.

On His Ride,
Steve
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'02 LTE - Red-blooded Dragonfly
'00 Unigo - Dragon's Egg
'01 LTC - Flying Purple People Eater (Ya gotta be old enough to understand)(RIP)
'00 LTC - Canyon Red Rover (RIP)

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post #6 of 9 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 10:16 am
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I just did my first brake pad change and bleed last night. The pad swap was a piece of cake. Bleeding was another story. The problem I had was with the d*@m grub screw. The instructions were simple enough, remove and replace with the speed bleeder. The first problem was I couldn’t get a wrench on it due to the close proximity of the hydraulic line. I figure no problem, I won’t be using it again, so I’ll just use a vice grip. It was very stiff turning and then at the end when it was almost out it would just spin. I thought I was screwed. I little upward pressure while unscrewing and I finally came off. Then the speed bleeder wouldn’t screw in. I thought I was screwed again. I think there was some kind of residue from the grub screws locktight/sealer left on the threads. I had to run a tap through to clean up the threads. The tap ran though very easily, obviously no thread damage, just goo. The speed bleeder then went on with no problem. I finally got the brakes bleed, 2 hours total. Now the speed bleeders are in place, the next time should only take 30 minutes.

Malcolm McGee
Little Rock, AR
'00 K1200LTC Canyon Red
'09 Kawasaki KLR 650
'96 Bunkhouse
IBA #24557
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post #7 of 9 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 10:22 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaphod
..............The speed bleeder then went on with no problem. .....................................
Did you have to drain the system to fit the speed bleeder?
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post #8 of 9 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 11:36 am
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No, but have a rag around the fitting as some fluid will leak out as you swap fittings. I lost more than what is probably normal because of the time it took to get mine on.

Malcolm McGee
Little Rock, AR
'00 K1200LTC Canyon Red
'09 Kawasaki KLR 650
'96 Bunkhouse
IBA #24557
BMWMOA #117769


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post #9 of 9 Old Jan 17th, 2006, 2:06 pm
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Bleeding K

Hello Malcom,

I just read your post with interest.

Would you be prepared to take a phone call from it do discuss bleeding the K? I am intending to do it in the next week or so and a word with someone that had done it would be a great help.

Thanks

Mark in Ireland
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