Possible Clutch Slave failure - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 5 Old May 8th, 2012, 12:56 am Thread Starter
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Possible Clutch Slave failure

I have had my bike for just on a month. 2005 with 30k Klms. When I purchased it I was well aware to check for any clutch slippage. It was fine. I went to move the bike out to the front of the house yesterday and found the clutch not working properly and the clutch engaging with the lever fully pulled in. Stalled the bike and needed to pump the clutch to get action. Checked and topped up the fluid thinking this may be the issue. Today the same thing happened as I moved the bike first thing. Clutch engaged with lever depressed. Had to run so pumped it and went on my ride into the city.
Then it happened, I was moving along in traffic in a high gear, rolled on the power and yes, the clutch slipped. Tried again and did it with ease.

My real question is, can I get away with just repairing/replacing the slave and drilling the weep hole. Or do I have to go all the way and clean or replace the clutch?

2005 dark Blue with chrome option
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post #2 of 5 Old May 8th, 2012, 4:49 am
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Re: Possible Clutch Slave failure

It all depends on the slave condition at the moment. Take the slave out check if there is fluid around it. If none you can probably just bleed the clutch and you will be ok. If there is fluid, pull your push rod out and check the condition of the felt around it, if your bike has the felt and see if it is wet. You could drill a hole into the clutch housing and see what leaks out. If nothing drill the weep hole, change out the slave and you should be ok. Do the small stuff first before getting into the big stuff. Your choice.

Courage doesn't always roar. Sometimes it is the quiet voice at the end of the day saying " I'll try again tomorrow".


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Last edited by sheldan2; May 8th, 2012 at 5:40 am.
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post #3 of 5 Old May 8th, 2012, 4:50 am
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Re: Possible Clutch Slave failure

Once the clutch friction plate is contaminated, it has to be replaced. It may be possible to throughly clean one with solvents and dry it, but all the work to remove it has to be done anyway, so not worth the risk to try and re-use a fouled friction plate in my opinion. Too much work to replace it again if it does not work.

When you do replace it, also replace both front and rear transmission input shaft seals as they have been in contact with brake fluid, and while in that far, replace the engine rear seal and O-ring.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

David Shealey
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EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
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post #4 of 5 Old May 8th, 2012, 5:13 am Thread Starter
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Re: Possible Clutch Slave failure

Thanks guys,
I guess the only way to go is open the girl up and see what I find and deal with it as it is. is est quis is est. To me it sounds like a can of worms which will only expose itself upon undressing.

Thanks for your comments,
Brian

2005 dark Blue with chrome option
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post #5 of 5 Old May 8th, 2012, 12:26 pm
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Re: Possible Clutch Slave failure

At least if you get to the slave and pull it a quick look at the release rod and how wet it is will tell you if you need to go further. i.e. if rod is dry you are done dissassembling.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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