Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 18 Old May 5th, 2012, 2:56 pm Thread Starter
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Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

Replaced the rear pads with thanks to Pete Van Dyke's well illustrated post but also planned to replace the rotor (heavily scored) with a new EBC. It's a '00, K1200LT

Had to use an easy-out on one of the screws but finally removed it w/o damage to the tapped hole.

Now my issue is removing the ABS ring. Prior posts called for penetrating fluid and then perhaps a stint in the freezer to break it loose but can't believe that the three screws with just a piece of the head flange held the ring on the rotor.

Anyway, check the photos and verify that I just need to break the bond at the arrows. Afraid to tap it with a hammer for fear of damaging the ring.

What next?
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post #2 of 18 Old May 5th, 2012, 3:13 pm
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

I froze mine, applied a bit of heat to the ring with a blow torch and pried it off with a couple of flat screwdrivers, no real pressure, it will come off,

Courage doesn't always roar. Sometimes it is the quiet voice at the end of the day saying " I'll try again tomorrow".


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post #3 of 18 Old May 5th, 2012, 3:13 pm
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

I heat the ABS ring with my propane torch & use a puller to remove it.

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post #4 of 18 Old May 5th, 2012, 3:21 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

OK it's in the freezer now and just returned from the NAPA store with Blue Loctite and some penetrating spay.

If the freezer doesn't do it. I'll light it up. Don't have a gear puller that large.

Thanks guys.

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post #5 of 18 Old May 5th, 2012, 3:23 pm
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

I pried mine off with a brake spoon. Just a little at a time as I worked my way around it.

John
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post #6 of 18 Old May 5th, 2012, 3:44 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

Quote:
Originally Posted by PMitchell
Replaced the rear pads with thanks to Pete Van Dyke's well illustrated post but also planned to replace the rotor (heavily scored) with a new EBC. It's a '00, K1200LT

Had to use an easy-out on one of the screws but finally removed it w/o damage to the tapped hole.

Now my issue is removing the ABS ring. Prior posts called for penetrating fluid and then perhaps a stint in the freezer to break it loose but can't believe that the three screws with just a piece of the head flange held the ring on the rotor.

Anyway, check the photos and verify that I just need to break the bond at the arrows. Afraid to tap it with a hammer for fear of damaging the ring.

What next?
I lit it up with a propane torch after allowing the penetrant to penetrate. (is that proper English?)

Used a couple of large Craftsman screwdrivers and pried it off working it around and around on a flipped over 5 gal plastic pail. That ring was tighter than my first girl friend!!!
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post #7 of 18 Old May 8th, 2012, 12:51 pm
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

Quote:
Originally Posted by PMitchell
I lit it up with a propane torch after allowing the penetrant to penetrate. (is that proper English?)

Used a couple of large Craftsman screwdrivers and pried it off working it around and around on a flipped over 5 gal plastic pail. That ring was tighter than my first girl friend!!!
I needed to apply heat to the three screws holding the ring on there, and they popped right out. Was lucky to have a large enough 3 legged puller, and I had two large flat bladed drivers in my hands, and buddy one in his and we just pulled the ring off very slow. We too sprayed a liberal amount of pentrating oil on it, and stopped part way through to apply more. Took 2 hours start to finish for the whole job. I recon we could do another in 30 minutes just so long as nothing sticks.

Buddy with a 2004 has the worst rattle I've heard, so may be doing his in a few weeks time.

Mike

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post #8 of 18 Old May 8th, 2012, 5:44 pm
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

3 jaw puller slides it right off. To assemble put the rotor in the freezer (shrinks) and warm up the ring (expands). They will literally flop together with clearance but as the heat equalizes they will work out to a negative clearance being immovable.


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post #9 of 18 Old May 8th, 2012, 6:29 pm
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

I drill about 8 or 10 1/8 inch holes in the rotor just inside the ABS ring to release the pressure. Then just used a large screw driver to pry the ABS ring off. I've done 4 or 5 this way & they all come off easy.

Stevie Shreeve

Last edited by katnapinn; May 8th, 2012 at 8:22 pm.
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post #10 of 18 Old May 8th, 2012, 7:43 pm
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

I will have to try that this weekend, Stevie, unless you are going to be up this way!

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post #11 of 18 Old May 9th, 2012, 9:57 am
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

I used propane heat to soften the loctite on the screws before I even attempted to take them out. They do have locking compound on the threads.

After removal of the screws, I was able to use two bent end prybars on each side of the ring. I would work them around at 90 degree intervals, prying the ring up. The ring popped off fairly easily after about three turns. It is not pressed on, but rather a very close slip-fit. This is why you need to work around the ring to take it off. If it gets cocked, you need to straighten it out before you continue to pry it off.

Make sure you have a plastic or hard rubber hammer to tap it onto the new disc. Soft taps around perimeter of the ring worked for me and not a dent was made on the ABS ribs. Also make sure the ring is completely bottomed on the hub. Then take the 3 screws and apply blue locktite and screw them into the hub.

My new EBC rotor works like a charm! NO noise, great stopping power, and easy to install. Best of all...EBC Rotor and pads cost me about $200 vs. $475 for a 'new' OEM rotor.


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post #12 of 18 Old May 9th, 2012, 12:32 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

Quote:
Originally Posted by LJSMITH1
I used propane heat to soften the loctite on the screws before I even attempted to take them out. They do have locking compound on the threads.

After removal of the screws, I was able to use two bent end prybars on each side of the ring. I would work them around at 90 degree intervals, prying the ring up. The ring popped off fairly easily after about three turns. It is not pressed on, but rather a very close slip-fit. This is why you need to work around the ring to take it off. If it gets cocked, you need to straighten it out before you continue to pry it off.

Make sure you have a plastic or hard rubber hammer to tap it onto the new disc. Soft taps around perimeter of the ring worked for me and not a dent was made on the ABS ribs. Also make sure the ring is completely bottomed on the hub. Then take the 3 screws and apply blue locktite and screw them into the hub.

My new EBC rotor works like a charm! NO noise, great stopping power, and easy to install. Best of all...EBC Rotor and pads cost me about $200 vs. $475 for a 'new' OEM rotor.

+1
Never had the cowbell or squeeks. Thought I would hear grinding if I was eating up the pads but nooo!
Ended up replacing the rotor and all pads.
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Originals had 26K and still had the 50% thickness. Wonder if BMW changed their supplier?
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Visual inspection is the way to go.
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pm
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Life is too short to do anything
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"Der Weg ist das Ziel"

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Last edited by PMitchell; May 9th, 2012 at 12:39 pm.
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post #13 of 18 Old May 9th, 2012, 4:32 pm
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

Might just be me, but the uneven wear on the pads indicates a possible caliper problem with unequal pressure on either side of the rotor. Be sure to recheck the pad wear regularly to stay ahead of this.

Happy Riding,

Dan
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post #14 of 18 Old May 9th, 2012, 5:23 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

Quote:
Originally Posted by dglenn1
Might just be me, but the uneven wear on the pads indicates a possible caliper problem with unequal pressure on either side of the rotor. Be sure to recheck the pad wear regularly to stay ahead of this.

Happy Riding,
Yup, thought that was unusual wear in less than a year when I replaced the rear tire.

Will inspect often for wear.

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post #15 of 18 Old May 9th, 2012, 6:03 pm
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

Quote:
Originally Posted by dglenn1
Might just be me, but the uneven wear on the pads indicates a possible caliper problem with unequal pressure on either side of the rotor. Be sure to recheck the pad wear regularly to stay ahead of this.

Happy Riding,
Dan, Paul,
Last night I just happened to watch the weep hole video and during that video John mentions that uneven wear on the pads you also noticed. He even makes a point of making sure that you put the pads back to the correct location, inside pads seem to wear out sooner.

John Baker

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post #16 of 18 Old May 9th, 2012, 9:30 pm
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

Quick and easy encoder ring removal
1. heat allen head screws to kill locktite
2. use hacksaw with blade installed upside down through center hole of old brake disc to
cut 2 release slots 180 degs apart
3. smack with soft item to sperate

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post #17 of 18 Old May 10th, 2012, 6:59 am
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbaker15
Dan, Paul,
Last night I just happened to watch the weep hole video and during that video John mentions that uneven wear on the pads you also noticed. He even makes a point of making sure that you put the pads back to the correct location, inside pads seem to wear out sooner.
My error it was the brake bleeding video.

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post #18 of 18 Old May 10th, 2012, 11:43 am
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Re: Rear Rotor Replacement Difficulties

Quote:
Originally Posted by dglenn1
Might just be me, but the uneven wear on the pads indicates a possible caliper problem with unequal pressure on either side of the rotor. Be sure to recheck the pad wear regularly to stay ahead of this.

Happy Riding,
Not necessarily. In my experience on cars and bikes it seems like the inner pads always wear faster. In the LT's case the rotor floats and in most autos the caliper floats. Not sure why it is almost always the inner pads that wear out first.

John
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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