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post #1 of 32 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 12:00 pm Thread Starter
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Rattling Rotors Quickie

Do the Rotors need changing or the spacers - the noise is dreadful, bike still stops on a pin though!
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post #2 of 32 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 1:46 pm
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Something I have noticed over several tire changes......if you are running Metzelers and the rear tire is cupped as they normally do on the left side, it sets in a vibration that is noticed more at slow speeds that causes the floating rear rotor to rattle badly especially while leaning left. A new set of tires usually stops this. I just live with the rattle until I wear the tires out.

HTH,

Ron
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post #3 of 32 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 4:58 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c00k1e
Do the Rotors need changing or the spacers - the noise is dreadful, bike still stops on a pin though!
Unfortunately the rear rotor is not re-buildable. It is a floating rotor and therefore there is a small movement allowed even when the machine is new. Unfortunately the rivets that hold the assy together wear and eventually the rotor starts to rattle. Your choices are, replace with a new one - probably around $300, do a search in the Hall of Wisdom for possible temporary repairs, get some ear plugs! Fortunately, while annoying, it's not a major safety issue. Good luck.

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post #4 of 32 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 5:37 pm
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"especially while leaning left" I notice rattle while also turning right, when it has 10k miles or more.
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post #5 of 32 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 7:39 pm
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I had the same problem.

I took the rotor off, sealed around each rivet with black high temp rtv silicone.
Problem solved.

Of course the rotor no longer "floats"

But it works just fine.

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post #6 of 32 Old Oct 6th, 2005, 9:36 pm
 
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I doubt it's a rotor issue. Replace your pads with EBCs (but keep OEMs up front), and then inspect your tire. Especially if you're running a Metzelers back there that's feathered...that can cause a multitude of ugly sounds and vibrations.
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post #7 of 32 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 3:59 am
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In my case, it was definitely the rotor.

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post #8 of 32 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 5:43 am Thread Starter
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It is the frount ones!

Sorry, should I have said - the noice is from the frount rotors rattling (the rear is less than 1k miles old!)
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post #9 of 32 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 7:40 am
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Exclamation Oh it's the fronts

Quote:
Originally Posted by c00k1e
Sorry, should I have said - the noice is from the frount rotors rattling (the rear is less than 1k miles old!)
Since you don't mention how long you've had the bike and whether you are the first owner or not, you are leaving a lot of information out of the picture. If the front is rattling, then I would suspect that you have EBC pads in the front. EBCs do not have anti-rattle clips like the BMW OEM pads do, been reported on the old site so many times it wasn't funny any more. So first thing I would do is check and make sure it's not the pads rattling. If they are, trot on down to you local BMW dealership or which ever BMW mail order place you want to use and order two sets of front BMW OEM pads and replace them.

Also it would help if you would fill out your profile data. It would be nice for us to know a little bit about who were talking to. Might even find folks close by that would be willing to help you out with problems and even better a really good group of friends.

HTH

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post #10 of 32 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 8:26 am
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I agree with Steve....EBC pads on the front are terrible. Actually since the OEM pads have changed, I only use OEM all the way around now with no issues at all. Those anti-rattle clips on the front OEM's are a necessity if you ask me.

Ron
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post #11 of 32 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 9:37 am Thread Starter
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I will fill out my profile now.
The rattle is deffinately the rotors, I can rattle them by hand, there is a lot of space round the spacers, but my local garage says buy new rotors, I am sure that the spacers should have been designed to give before the holes in the rotors.
BMW OEM pads all round
79k on the clock, 2nd hand.
I could try silicone (I have some clear stuff I use for my ST1100 stainless Pipes)
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post #12 of 32 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 9:49 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c00k1e
I will fill out my profile now.
The rattle is deffinately the rotors, I can rattle them by hand, there is a lot of space round the spacers, but my local garage says buy new rotors, I am sure that the spacers should have been designed to give before the holes in the rotors.
BMW OEM pads all round
79k on the clock, 2nd hand.
I could try silicone (I have some clear stuff I use for my ST1100 stainless Pipes)
You may just want to try and order parts and fix it that way. According to A&S's microfiche. There is a wave washer P/N 34 11 2 314 888, quantity 10 (5 for each side), that you might want to try replacing. It's just a start. I'd also find out what color Loctite to use when you replace them.

Good luck.

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post #13 of 32 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 10:11 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_R
You may just want to try and order parts and fix it that way. According to A&S's microfiche. There is a wave washer P/N 34 11 2 314 888, quantity 10 (5 for each side), that you might want to try replacing. It's just a start. I'd also find out what color Loctite to use when you replace them.

Good luck.
Loctite?
Hmmm, I may be closer to the problem than I thought.
I replaced the wheel when I bought the bike (bit of a dent in the rim) put the old rotors etc on the new wheel - didnt know anything about loctite! Any chance it could be this simple?
I
Thanks for the part number, much searching avoided if this is the solution
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post #14 of 32 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 11:48 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c00k1e
Loctite?
Hmmm, I may be closer to the problem than I thought.
I replaced the wheel when I bought the bike (bit of a dent in the rim) put the old rotors etc on the new wheel - didnt know anything about loctite! Any chance it could be this simple?
I
Thanks for the part number, much searching avoided if this is the solution
I doubt it. Mine rattle horrible and I am waiting for winter down time to repair.

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post #15 of 32 Old Oct 7th, 2005, 11:49 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_R
You may just want to try and order parts and fix it that way. According to A&S's microfiche. There is a wave washer P/N 34 11 2 314 888, quantity 10 (5 for each side), that you might want to try replacing. It's just a start. I'd also find out what color Loctite to use when you replace them.

Good luck.
Interesting... T wasn't aware that there were wave washers available.. may be a cost effective fix...

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post #16 of 32 Old Oct 10th, 2005, 8:44 am Thread Starter
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Can anyone think of a reason why I shouldnt try using silicone to stop the rattle?
Update;
Just spoken to Clarks BMW in Birmingham (UK). They say that I need new 'rollpins', so I have gone with them and will see if that sorts the problem out.

Last edited by c00k1e; Oct 10th, 2005 at 11:02 am.
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post #17 of 32 Old Oct 10th, 2005, 4:16 pm
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If it's the front rotors, I wouldn't silicone them.

The only reason I siliconed the back was I really don't use the back brake much anyway. but I couldn't stand that damn rattling anymore.


I rely mostly on the front, and if there supposed to float, I want them to float.

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post #18 of 32 Old Nov 14th, 2005, 9:09 am
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Interesting comments regarding the anti-rattle clips.

I know of quite a few cases of bikes having rattling rear brake discs changed under guarantee by BMW, even when the bike was out of warantee.
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post #19 of 32 Old Nov 14th, 2005, 9:21 am Thread Starter
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update

Removed the bolts, 'crincled washers' and inserts on my K1200lt.
Found that half the 'crincled washers' were missing!
Found that many of the inserts were worn quite a bit.

Bought compleate set of bolts, 'crincled washers' and inserts (30ish) and now I have a silent frount end!!!

Very happy, worth the money!

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post #20 of 32 Old Nov 15th, 2005, 12:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c00k1e
Bought compleate set of bolts, 'crincled washers' and inserts (30ish) and now I have a silent frount end!!!
Were you working on the front rotors or the rear?

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post #21 of 32 Old Nov 15th, 2005, 12:46 pm
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You cannot replace the wave washers in the rear brake rotor, that one is riveted. The front ones are bolted, easy to put in new wave washers.

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post #22 of 32 Old Nov 15th, 2005, 1:11 pm
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Can confirm that.
Only takes an experienced mechanic around 45 mins to change the rear brake disc.
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post #23 of 32 Old Nov 15th, 2005, 8:00 pm
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Rear rotor replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by simoncharles
Can confirm that.
Only takes an experienced mechanic around 45 mins to change the rear brake disc.
Takes an inexperienced mechanic around 45 mins to change also. AMHIK.

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post #24 of 32 Old Nov 16th, 2005, 1:22 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simoncharles
Can confirm that.
Only takes an experienced mechanic around 45 mins to change the rear brake disc.
Uh, an experienced guy should do it in about 15 minutes, if he stops to have a beer. Two screws for the license plate holder, Five bolts for the rear wheel, and two screws for the rotor. There is loctite on the rotor screws, and the rear lug bolts need to be cross-torqued in two stages, but that's all there is.

Unless you're charging by the hour, that is.

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post #25 of 32 Old Nov 16th, 2005, 4:30 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackd
Were you working on the front rotors or the rear?
front

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post #26 of 32 Old Nov 16th, 2005, 4:55 am
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In that case it would take me all day !.
I was counting the time it took them to put the bike on the lift, tie it down, do the job and get it back on to the ground again.
Probably involved filling in a form or two as well.
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post #27 of 32 Old Nov 16th, 2005, 5:24 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_R
You may just want to try and order parts and fix it that way. According to A&S's microfiche. There is a wave washer P/N 34 11 2 314 888, quantity 10 (5 for each side), that you might want to try replacing. It's just a start. I'd also find out what color Loctite to use when you replace them.

Good luck.
btw - the loctite was on the bolts that I bought from BMW for the job. They suggested to me that they replace all parts (bolts, washers and inserts) every time the rotors are taken off.
Obviously I wouldn't advise against this suggestion, but I will certainly change the bolts everytime and check the condition of the other components carefully before possibly putting them back.

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post #28 of 32 Old Dec 14th, 2005, 2:33 am
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Rattle in the rear wheel area

The very annoying rattle, and embarrasing too is when I ride over a bump at a low speed (on a parking lot). It sounds like a box of loose nuts and bolts.
My '05 is approaching 12k, so it's about time for the 12k service. I'll see what the dealer will do about it.
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post #29 of 32 Old Dec 14th, 2005, 3:50 pm
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EBC pads should not stop the disk rotor rattle. They do reduce the "finger nail on the chalk board" sound during stops. IMHO I am not sure why they have reduced the horrendous racked caused by applying the rear brake, but the pads would only effect the rotor raddle if they are dragging on the rotor and preventing it from floating, this could be the result of installing new pads and the pistons failing to retract completely and leaving pressure on the pads.

Jim in GA
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post #30 of 32 Old Dec 14th, 2005, 7:41 pm
 
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Rotor Rattles

If the rotor has been rattling a long time, the holes in the rotor are prolly elongated, replace the rotor.
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post #31 of 32 Old Mar 6th, 2007, 4:51 pm
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Cool Which shops are willing to work with us?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveDragon
Miller BMW in Tallahassee replaced the rear rotor on the DragonFly at 74,000 miles because of the noise.
It had been replaced at 32,000 under warranty.

This time BMW provided the Rotor and I paid the Shop Labor.
DaveDragon,

Who did you go with for the last two? Gun's shop did the recall, which seemed to reduce it, but it has been getting worse and worse... Now it is down right embarrassing.
I guess we have Gun, Haps, Orlando, Daytona and Tall within a nice day ride from here to choose from... so I just want someone "nice/pleasant" to work with.
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post #32 of 32 Old Mar 7th, 2007, 3:31 pm
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by c00k1e
front
The front rotors are on what BME calls roll pins. Mine are also rattling so I just ordered 10 roll pins and ten wave washers. It's possible, and easy, to change the pins and washers without even removing the wheel. There should not be any noticeable wear or elongation in the holes in the rotors beacuse the pins are desinged to wear before the rotors. This list price of the pins is $7.20 each, and the washers are $1.50, ( I think). So, for about $100 and an hour or so, you can solve the problem.
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