Well, you guy's just aren't going to believe this - BMW Luxury Touring Community
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post #1 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 4:48 pm Thread Starter
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Well, you guy's just aren't going to believe this

Well, you guy's just aren't going to believe this.
Bran new bmw K1200LT with 2,876 miles on the clock.
Running thru the Smokey Mts. this brisk Sunday afternoon and what happens.
Car pulls up beside me and they yell out of the window (you Jap piece of S--- bike is on fire). I think to my self, oh yeal? They go on by laughing, and I think to myself, (bad joke). A car behind me rulls and starts blowing there horn, about this time I'm getting pretty pissed with society. I take my left hand off of the bar's to motion them on around, and whamo, the bike locks up and I just about do a flip off of the bike. I finally get it under control, and straight, and she stops right in the middle of the road. I get off and the damn thing is on fire. The rubber gasket, between the drive shaft and the final drive hub, I guess you might call the thing, was on fire, and I do mean on fire. If I were not 25 yards from the river that runs thru the mountains, the damn thing would of burnt down right then and there. A kid had one of those large plastic mugs with them and ran down to the creek and got some water and we thru it on it a couple of times. The final drive hub was terribly hot. We tried to move it off of the road, but it was locked up. Actually, at first I thought that it was the brakes that locked up. But I finally got my composure, with all of the traffic stopped and finally got the clutch pulled in and some help in pushing it off of the road. It rolls good with the clutch pulled in or out of gear in neutral. Start it up and put it in gear and it will not budge. Has to be the final drive, right. Tell me what you think.
Had to of ruined the brake rotar, rear tire, rear wheel, bottom of the right side case, hoses and wiring just above the rotar, and god only knows what else. Just got the bike out of the shop on saturday from having the rear tire changed to get those slick a-- metz tires off of the thing, now this. What next. Also, if you think that it is the final drive, what do I need to make sure that goes on the bike to ensure that this does not happen again. I know that ive been long winded, but I am really wound up tight about all of this.
rlv.

Richard Vogt
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post #2 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 4:58 pm
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Well, I know that Destination is probably closed tomorrow,but I know that you will take it back. The bike is under warranty, I wouldn't worry about.

Have them at their expense tow it to there shop.

Sorry it happened and glad you are ok.

Oh, I have run across those same idiots on the road; Jap? Obviously they are the smart ones! LOL

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Last edited by pkpr1998; Mar 19th, 2006 at 5:01 pm. Reason: Additional comment
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post #3 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 5:03 pm
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Wow! That's scary
If it will roll with the clutch in but won't move when it's running I don't think it is the final drive. If the final was locked up it would not roll at all
Glad to hear you're ok

Mike in Pittsburgh

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post #4 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 5:20 pm Thread Starter
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mike,
what would you say that it is?
I would not have a clue if it is not the final drive.
But also, I did get that rear tire changed sat.
rlv

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post #5 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 5:20 pm
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It won't be your final drive it's more like your gearbox.

Goldy.
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post #6 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 5:33 pm Thread Starter
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Goldie,
My gear box.
Never thought of that.
Is my gear box back that far, next to the rubber gasket at the final drive?
Has anyone else had this problem?
Is it as common as the final drive.
Would a rear tire change have anything to do with this.

Richard Vogt
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post #7 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 5:35 pm Thread Starter
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Goldie,
Also another thought, I can still shift gears into all of the gears, I have already tried that.
What do you think

Richard Vogt
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post #8 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 5:58 pm
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Gear box is at front of the drive shaft, after clutch. (Front to rear: Engine > clutch > tranny > shaft > final drive)

I'm leaning towards a gear box (transmission) problem. If the engine didn't start and run, a seized engine would be strongly suspected. But, I'm a bit confused by the neutral/clutch thing. Clutch disengaged and rolling implies tranny is at least mostly OK. Tranny is turned by rear wheel when clutch disengged. Rolling only in neutral would indicate a tranny input side issue. But - rolling in both implies engine seizure. But the engine runs *and* won't move the bike. Weird.

I'm thinking the fire was just a consequence of whatever failed, not a cause - big SWAG there. Whatever has failed likely spilled fluid. I'm betting that fluid assisted with the fire at the final drive boot. I know final drives can get hot - but no idea if they can get *that* hot. Possible reaction 'tween fluid and boot rubber or something else created something with a lower flash point?

Good luck on the repairs - be curious to hear what it was after dealer gets to it. Gotta wonder how much of a fight this may become between your insurance carrier and dealer's waranty obligations.

Above all - glad you're OK!! Sudden 'stoppage' like that could've been disasterous.

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post #9 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 6:42 pm
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warranty

well.....the main thing is.....your ok.....

aside from that ....its a new bike so its under warranty....

being ever pessimistic about the quality of work these days id bet that whatever work you recently had done resulted in the problem whatever it is....

just thinking of how to generate enough heat back there to set a gasket or seal on fire id say it would be more likely brake related.....especially if they just had the back tire off....BUT....thats all speculation.....and really.....aside from the fact that it might take the shop a little while to fix it.....u are only going to be out riding time....

anyhow....im glad you didnt get hurt....

good luck

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post #10 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 6:44 pm
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Smile

Probably a dumb question - could that new tire have started rubbing causing the heat and fire? Spacer properly installed? Different brand of tire that didn't allow as much clearnace?
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post #11 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 7:08 pm Thread Starter
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budman60,
New tire was a Bridgestone 20.
Don"t know if they put the proper spacer in or even if they put a spacer in at all. Something is weird about all of this.
Does a Metz 880 require a spacer?
Don't even know who changed the tire, they told me that they were totally swamped, and had been for a period of time. Mechanical work was 2 & 3 weeks out, and looking for more mechanics. What I am getting at is, I don't even know if it was a trained mechanic who changed the tire.
Thanks for your reply.
rlv

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post #12 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 7:25 pm
 
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Here's my ramblings from 600 miles away...

As much as I love the opportunity to poke at the Bridgestone tire . . . I don't think it can be that at all. Pulling in the clutch or putting the bike in Neutral to allow it to roll has nothing to do with tire. I don't think it's the final drive either. I think it's tranny or drive shaft related. The fire makes me suspect a U-Joint or the driveshaft. I never heard of one failing on an LT (or any Beemer), but it can happen. Hard to believe that a U-Joint failing would lock the rear tire up though.

You'll have to keep is abreast on this one. Just glad you're OK. Your LT will be back on the road before you know it.
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post #13 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 7:48 pm Thread Starter
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joe,
thanks for the reply and the interest.
I will definately let every one know what they find.
richard

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post #14 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 8:37 pm
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Well, here's my $0.02.

I think it was a drive shaft failure.

The drive shaft is actually a four part assembly. A universal joint on each each and two shaft sections in the middle. The two shaft sections are joined by a 'metalask' rubber type interface. They have been known to fail, but not regularly.

If it indeed started to fail, the input shaft would be spinning faster than the output shaft and some huge heat could be generated. Enough to perhaps ignite any fluids in the boot or perhaps the Metalask itself. JMO.

In any event, it's a bummer and I'm glad you're okay. Sorry scenario on a new bike. I keep hoping BMW gets its act together on these small volume cycles, but it doesn't look very promising. I love the bike but hate the mentality.

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post #15 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 9:11 pm
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I am betting on a brake problem. I have seen this problem a couple of times when the rear caliper would not completely release and got the rotor and caliper so hot that they melted the boot and caliper.

Jim Davidson
2007 R1200RT
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post #16 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 9:18 pm
 
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by hp1bmw
I am betting on a brake problem.
And when he engaged the clutch, this affected the brakes how?!

If it was a brake problem, it would still be locked up...or the calipers would have released and the issue would've gone away. But from what he is describing, if the bike is in gear, the rear tire is still locked up.
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post #17 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 10:33 pm
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I vote for a problem with the rear brake dragging and heating everything up until you have ignition.

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post #18 of 99 Old Mar 19th, 2006, 10:35 pm
 
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Give us a little more here.
You say it does not move with the engine. Are you saying it tries to kill the engine when you release the clutch or does the engine just spin when you release the clutch.

What if he had a brake computer failure that only occurs when he starts the engine and this locks the rear brake?

Come on Joe think outside the box.

Rick
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post #19 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 12:01 am
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I think your g/box is picking up two gears together,you will feel you are selecting gears but all you are feeling is the selector forks working.It's the fact that your engine is still running that is confusing the issue.

Goldy.
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post #20 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 12:29 am
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Cool

I'll put money on the actual drive shaft rubber coming unglued! Check out this thread from our archived site:
http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/show...ts&Main=188447

If that rubber got hot enough it could have been the cause of the fire. Only thing that throws me is the actual lock-up you had. Maybe it could have somehow jammed up within the shaft housing?

Whatever the cause, glad you're OK. And definitely take it back to the dealer!

John

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post #21 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 1:02 am
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Its 10 pm and I just got home from a great ride and wanted to post what a totally superior bike this K1200LT is and this post is the first I read! I am glad no one was hurt when your bike "malfunctioned" I bet it was something to do with your so called maintenance you had done. Do not let it sour you on your ride. The LT is the best machine out there. I just came home from a ride with a Harley,Honda, Yamaha,amd a Bmw RT. They were out classed and knew it! The more I ride this bike the more I know Its the right bike for me. Do yourself a favor and attend some of the local tech sessions and do your own maintenance. That way you know what your riding. Although I am lucky to have two local BMW shops that do great work.

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post #22 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 1:02 am
 
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OK, try this... caliper sticks, heats rotor and hub, starts fire, locks up.

(bike was stalled in gear)


Water cools caliper, rear wheel unlocks, try to push bike in gear...no dice, pull in clutch, voila', it moves. (as it should)


BIG bummer, IMHO, if this happens to me, I'm letting it burn...........
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post #23 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 4:51 am
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But then he stated that bike starts put it in gear, and nothing.

My vote is shaft. Had this happen to an RT twice. No fire. Also confused about being in gear and would not move thing.
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post #24 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 7:37 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith
OK, try this... caliper sticks, heats rotor and hub, starts fire, locks up.

(bike was stalled in gear)


Water cools caliper, rear wheel unlocks, try to push bike in gear...no dice, pull in clutch, voila', it moves. (as it should)


BIG bummer, IMHO, if this happens to me, I'm letting it burn...........
DID NOT THROW WATER ON THE CALIPER, THREW IT ON THE RUBBER BOOT BETWEEN THE DRIVE SHAFT AND THE FINAL DRIVE.
I AM AT WORK NOW, BUT I DO BELIEVE THAT THE CALIPER SITS BEHIND THE FINAL DRIVE HUB ON THE BIKE.
THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY
RICHARD

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post #25 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 7:40 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorman587
But then he stated that bike starts put it in gear, and nothing.

My vote is shaft. Had this happen to an RT twice. No fire. Also confused about being in gear and would not move thing.
YES, PULL THE CLUTCH IN AND YOU CAN FREELY ROLL THE BIKE, PUT THE BIKE IN NEUTRAL AND YOU CAN FREELY ROLL THE BIKE, START THE BIKE UP AND PUT IT IN GEAR AND GIVE IT THE GAS AND IT WILL TRY TO MOVE, BUT NOTHING, JUST LIKE AGAINST A BRICK WALL.
THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY
RICHARD

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post #26 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 8:25 am
 
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rlv, Could you hear the brake servo motor running without pulling a brake?

Turn the ignition on (don't start the engine) and see if the bike will move out of gear.

After the initial check period on the instrument panel, tell us what lights you have on, then start the engine and tell us what lights you have.

Sorry guys, I need a little more input. Since the bike feels like it's against a brick wall when he engages clutch, engine running, and rolls with the engine off, I'm continuing down the brake problem path.

Rick
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post #27 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 11:35 am
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Being able to move the bike in gear with the clutch in and in neutral rules out drive shaft.

It wasn't clear if you could move the bike while running and in neutral or clutch pulled in. If you can't it could be when the brake servo gets power it is locking the brakes.

Could be tranny but since you can free wheel the bike in neutral or clutch pulled in it would have to be the drive side of the transmission (killing the motor).

If the bike feels like it wants to move (drive train torquing up) then the brakes are locked. If the is no loading going on, then power is not geting past the tranny.

I'd hope for the brake servo. Either way it's under warranty.

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post #28 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 11:44 am
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Based on Richard's last comment, sounds like drive shaft components locked up on the transmission side, not the wheel side. Probably severed somewhere inside the shaft housing, u-joints, couplings, etc.

If the boot caught fire, sounds like rear u-joint - I assume there is one!

Would be curious if while engine running, in gear, clutch out and that against a brick wall feeling, can the bike be pushed/rolled by hand?

Sounds like the engine can't turn the front portion of the shaft, but the rear half is free.

John

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post #29 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 12:06 pm Thread Starter
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Hey Guys,
Im At Work Right Now.
But I Will Re Read The Last 3 Or 4 Post When I Get Home And Do What's Asked Of Me, Then I Will Enter A New Post With What I Have Found.
Again Thanks For Hanging In There With Me.
Richard

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post #30 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 12:51 pm
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Glad you're OK.

My bike is still in the shop getting a new rear drive because the dealer failed to replace (or tighten sufficiently) the rear drive fill plug after the 600 mile service. If my bike were to catch fire I'd be tempted to restrain anyone who tried to extinguish the fire. Just the way I'm feeling about this today...

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post #31 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 12:54 pm
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A quick way to rule out the rear brake is to pull the caliper off the rotor and tie it up out of the way. Then try to ride it. Of course if the servo is the problem it could be locking up the front wheel also. Strange problem for sure. It will be interesting to see what the outcome is.

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2007 R1200RT
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post #32 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 2:13 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hp1bmw
A quick way to rule out the rear brake is to pull the caliper off the rotor and tie it up out of the way. Then try to ride it.
Don't do that! You already have enough damage without displacing the brake pads, pistons, fluid, etc when there is no rear brake disc to act on. Remember, linked brakes.

If you just want to try and see if she'll move, that would probably be OK. Just don't ride off and have to use the brake system to stop with the caliper off.

John

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post #33 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 2:25 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlv
YES, PULL THE CLUTCH IN AND YOU CAN FREELY ROLL THE BIKE, PUT THE BIKE IN NEUTRAL AND YOU CAN FREELY ROLL THE BIKE, START THE BIKE UP AND PUT IT IN GEAR AND GIVE IT THE GAS AND IT WILL TRY TO MOVE, BUT NOTHING, JUST LIKE AGAINST A BRICK WALL.
THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY
RICHARD
With the engine off can you roll the bike when it is in gear with the clutch let out. If you can the drive shaft has failed (separated) and the tranny side is locked & wheel side is free.

If you can't move it then it comes down to a failure on the drive side of the tranny or brake servo engaging when the bike is running.

Now with the bike running and in neutral or the clutch pulled in can you move it. If you can then you have ruled out the servo and it comes down to the drive side of the tranny. But if you can't it is most likely the servo.

Dave

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post #34 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 2:48 pm
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I'm not getting it...
if the bike runs with the clunth on neutral, why are you all talking about brakes?
I never saw that the brakes would be grabbing and if you put on neutral they will not...
As per his description, this is NOT a brake problem...

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post #35 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 3:09 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strsout
I'm not getting it...
if the bike runs with the clunth on neutral, why are you all talking about brakes?
I never saw that the brakes would be grabbing and if you put on neutral they will not...
As per his description, this is NOT a brake problem...
Richard never states that the bike is either on or running when he is able to push it. He does state that with the clutch in or in neutral he can move it but we can't assume the bike is running unless he says so. So however unlikely the servo is still in play. Also we can't really tell from the description if he ever tried to push it while it was turned off and in gear with the clutch out which would mostlikely = drive shaft seperation.

"YES, PULL THE CLUTCH IN AND YOU CAN FREELY ROLL THE BIKE, PUT THE BIKE IN NEUTRAL AND YOU CAN FREELY ROLL THE BIKE, START THE BIKE UP AND PUT IT IN GEAR AND GIVE IT THE GAS AND IT WILL TRY TO MOVE, BUT NOTHING, JUST LIKE AGAINST A BRICK WALL."

Dave

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Current Stable:
'06 R12GS Adv, '98 Buell, '95 Ultra, '95 Fatboy, '71 Rickman, '53 Panhead
2009-2010 KxxxxLT or whenever BMW updates the platform


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post #36 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 3:17 pm
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Lightbulb

The radiator bearing pop-up valve??
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post #37 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 4:12 pm
 
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Smile

dencla, Can you write that in French so I understand which part you are speaking of?
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post #38 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 4:28 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strsout
I'm not getting it...
if the bike runs with the clunth on neutral, why are you all talking about brakes?
I never saw that the brakes would be grabbing and if you put on neutral they will not...
As per his description, this is NOT a brake problem...
I agree with you COMPLETELY Elton. Doesn't matter if the bike is running or not. If the guy pulls the clutch in and it rolls...that negates a brake issue in my mind.

Time will tell ALL.
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post #39 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 5:01 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TandemCyclist
rlv, Could you hear the brake servo motor running without pulling a brake?

Turn the ignition on (don't start the engine) and see if the bike will move out of gear.

After the initial check period on the instrument panel, tell us what lights you have on, then start the engine and tell us what lights you have.

Sorry guys, I need a little more input. Since the bike feels like it's against a brick wall when he engages clutch, engine running, and rolls with the engine off, I'm continuing down the brake problem path.

Rick
OK, HERE GOES
JUST GOT IN FROM WORK AND TRIED EVERYTHING OUT.
IGNITION ON, DONT START MOTOR, SEE IF THE BIKE WILL MOVE=YES
ENGINE ON, BIKE IN NEUTRAL, SEE IF THE BIKE WILL MOVE=YES
WHAT LIGHTS ARE ON THE PANEL WITH SWITCH IN THE ON POSITION, ENGINE OFF:BRAKE FAILURE BLINKING
TRIP RESET
CLOCK MODE
OIL/BATTERY
ENGINE ON AND RUNNING: SAME EXCEPT THE OIL/BATTERY IS NOT SHOWING
WILL THE BIKE MOVE IN GEAR WITH THE ENGINE OFF AND CLUTCH IN=YES
WILL THE BIKE MOVE IN GEAR WITH THE ENGINE ON AND CLUTHCH IN=YES
WILL THE BIKE MOVE IN GEAR WITH THE ENGINE, AND LET THE CLUTCH LET OUT= THE THING NOW GOES FOWARD. (FIGURE THAT OUT)
WAS IT THE SERVEPRO MALFUNCTIONING AND NOW IS FINE OR WHAT IS GOING ON.
THANKS AGAIN GUYS
DESTINATION SHOULD BE OPEN TOMORROW, GOING TO CALL AND MAKE AN APPOINTMENT FOR THEM TO COME AND PICK UP.
ILL WAIT FOR SOME REPLYS ON THIS ONE.
RICHARD

Richard Vogt
2007 (Silver) R1200RT
2010 R1200GSA (Gertrude)
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post #40 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 5:09 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hschisler
Glad you're OK.

My bike is still in the shop getting a new rear drive because the dealer failed to replace (or tighten sufficiently) the rear drive fill plug after the 600 mile service. If my bike were to catch fire I'd be tempted to restrain anyone who tried to extinguish the fire. Just the way I'm feeling about this today...
HOWARD,
I KNOW, I READ YOUR POST THE OTHER DAY.
I FELT SORRY FOR YOU, IS THE DEALER GIVING YOU ANY TROUBLE OVER FIXING IT UNDER WARRANTY?
HANG IN THERE WITH THE BIKE, ITS STILL PROBABLY THE BEST BIKE THAT YOU EVER RODED. I KNOW THAT YOUR DOWN RIGHT NOW JUST LIKE ME, BUT IT WILL COME AROUND TO THE GOOD FOR BOTH OF US, AND THERE'S ALWAYS TOMORROW WHEN WE WILL BE BACK OUT THERE WITH THE SUN IN OUR EYES, AND A GRIN ON OUR FACE, THINKING THIS IS LIFE AND THIS IS AS GOOD AS IT GETS.
RICHARD

RICHARD

Richard Vogt
2007 (Silver) R1200RT
2010 R1200GSA (Gertrude)
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post #41 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 5:12 pm
 
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Exclamation CAPS LOCK - Yikes!

Richard... Using ALL CAPS is not neccessary and it means that you are YELLING in an online forum. Please turn the CAPS LOCK off. Please?

Then again...not using any caps is almost just as annoying.
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post #42 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 5:16 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
I agree with you COMPLETELY Elton. Doesn't matter if the bike is running or not. If the guy pulls the clutch in and it rolls...that negates a brake issue in my mind.

Time will tell ALL.
I agree not a mechanical brake issue but maybe a servo issue. Electric servo the bike must be running or ignition on to activate.

Dave

BMWMOA #120588
website has been hacked - down for now
Riding since '65 - 30+ bikes (lost count)
Current Stable:
'06 R12GS Adv, '98 Buell, '95 Ultra, '95 Fatboy, '71 Rickman, '53 Panhead
2009-2010 KxxxxLT or whenever BMW updates the platform


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post #43 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 5:37 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
Richard... Using ALL CAPS is not neccessary and it means that you are YELLING in an online forum. Please turn the CAPS LOCK off. Please?

Then again...not using any caps is almost just as annoying.
Thanks Joe,
Never heard of that, I'll keep it in mind from now on.
Of course with a 6th grade ed. I don't have the computer training that others have had, and I just pick this stuff up on my own, picking up hints here and there, and I have never heard of that one before.
Makes a lot of since though.
I just love getting up in the morning, getting out in the world and learning something new.
The real reason that I was typing in cap. letters though is because of Jocie.
She is about half blind, bless her heart, and she reads every letter that I write.
Thanks again, I will correct my mistakes.
Everyone on here has been very nice, and I never want to offend any one.
Richard

Richard Vogt
2007 (Silver) R1200RT
2010 R1200GSA (Gertrude)
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post #44 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 6:01 pm
 
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Richard,

So does the bike appear to work normally now? Don't ride it but just work it around in the driveway. If it is working, hopefully something will show on a computer diagnostic. Make sure you tell the tech about tire change. Someone could have screwed up something like a sensor, spacer, or mounted a caliper wrong.

Oh yea, you can't offend Joe.

No matter what keep us informed.

Rick
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post #45 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 6:14 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TandemCyclist
Richard,

So does the bike appear to work normally now? Don't ride it but just work it around in the driveway. If it is working, hopefully something will show on a computer diagnostic. Make sure you tell the tech about tire change. Someone could have screwed up something like a sensor, spacer, or mounted a caliper wrong.

Oh yea, you can't offend Joe.

No matter what keep us informed.

Rick
I really don't know if the bike is working properly or not.
I was just fooling around with it in the garage, not about to get it out on the hwy. or on the road in the subdivision. I have kind of a steep last 50 ft. getting into my drive way, and would never be able to get the beast back up the drive by myself. I will keep you informed about what the dealer says.
I am very interested in what they say.
As far a Joe, I am not mad. I do appreciate anything anyone can help me with in life. I learn as I go thru it. It's a little rougher this way, but if you pay attention to what people tell you and not be offended by it, one will learn. Actually, I appreciate what Joe said, and as you can see I have learned from it.
I did type in all caps. at work all of the time, and nobody ever said anything.
Bet that I don't tomorrow.
And Jocie is about half blind, but it's none of her business what I type anyway.
Thanks again for your reply
Richard

Richard Vogt
2007 (Silver) R1200RT
2010 R1200GSA (Gertrude)
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post #46 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 6:30 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dronning
I agree not a mechanical brake issue but maybe a servo issue. Electric servo the bike must be running or ignition on to activate.

Dave

OK. Now we all will be here waiting for the finding of this problem...
Richard, can you please take the bike to the dealer and let us know ASAP

Peace to all.

--------------------------------
Elton 'StrsOut' Marks '02 Silver-Member #337 (or 287?)

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2002 LT - 62,394 miles as of 08/05/2007
2003 GS - 20,960 miles as of 07/11/2008
Loma Linda - CA
IBA#14,458 - AMA


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post #47 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 6:56 pm
 
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Maybe We Should Always Type In Caps. Makes It Easy To Read And Easy To Type. That Way, Others Will Say "you Must Be From The Bmwlt.net Forum" Instead Of Thinking We Are Yelling. I Mean Really, Can Type Be Emotional?
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post #48 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 7:10 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humplatch
Maybe We Should Always Type In Caps. Makes It Easy To Read And Easy To Type. That Way, Others Will Say "you Must Be From The Bmwlt.net Forum" Instead Of Thinking We Are Yelling. I Mean Really, Can Type Be Emotional?
YOU mIsSeD tHe Y in YoU aNd ThE n in dotCOM.
Think th-this will bug Jo-oo-oe.

Wow, I had trouble on the proof read.
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post #49 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 8:36 pm
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After reading all the posts, I have to believe it's the drive shaft just as Mr. Townsend has described in post #14.

That's where i'm putting my chips !!

Duane

Check the obvious first!
01 LT Champagne "The Starship"
73 Z1 Kawi
and 7 long gone
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post #50 of 99 Old Mar 20th, 2006, 9:19 pm
 
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Dumb question? Explain the slick rear tire with less than 3000 miles. Good luck on your repair and be thankful your body is OK. Could have been a lot worse with the sudden stop. Like I have always said "Speed has never hurt anyone, it's the sudden stops that always gets you."
Leon
05 Blue LT
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