Pulling to the right and a new vibration - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 13 Old Mar 16th, 2006, 12:45 am Thread Starter
 
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Pulling to the right and a new vibration

I have an '03 LT that I've had for 2 years in November (purchased new) and has 36,400 miles on the odometer. The bike has developed a serious pulling to the right problem. I have to constantly keep pressure on the left grip to keep the bike tracking straight. The best way to really see the magnitude of the problem is to set the cruise at just about any highway speed and take your hands off the grips. In less than 3 seconds you have to grab the grips to maintain positive control. It will pull itself up and over the crown of the road. I am running fairly new Metzler 880s. I can't say that I can connect the problem to the installation of the new tires, but of course it is a possibility. It is not a difference in load in the side bags. I've played with that too. My dealer says that they don't notice this problem when they take it out for a test ride.

The other problem is a new high frequency vibration or buzzing that runs through the entire bike at just about any rpm. It is very noticeable in the foot pegs and grips. The bike was running beautifully and as smooth as butter until I took it into the dealership for the 36,000 mile inspection. My bike would run at 5000 rpm and you could feel almost nothing from the engine. Now it puts a tingle in my feet within a few miles and nearly to sleep if I continue to ride. In neutral the engine runs with a constant popping sound from 3000 rpm up. The dealer doesn't feel the buzz when they take it out for a test ride.

After 36,000 miles of wonderful 600 to 800 miles in a day trips, I know what an LT rides like, and this ain't it. Suggestions on what might be happening with either problem.

Thanks for the help!
Terry
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post #2 of 13 Old Mar 16th, 2006, 7:33 am
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Just as a really quick test, I'd take the wheels back off and reinstall them according to the shop manual. If they didn't do the bouncing thing with the front end before tightening everything up, they may have cocked the axle.

Dan
New Hampshire
2002 K1200LTC
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post #3 of 13 Old Mar 16th, 2006, 7:51 am
 
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I would get it checked quick, because it sounds as though you have a problem that is way off the scale as for as normal is concerned. Good Luck and keep us posted.
Leon
05 Blue LT
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post #4 of 13 Old Mar 16th, 2006, 8:09 am
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I would take it back and have it checked over good. Whatever the problem it won't get better riding it. It could get worse real quickly.
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post #5 of 13 Old Mar 16th, 2006, 9:01 am
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try another dealer

id say if ur dealer is immune to sensing the issues u are describing maybe u need to get someone else to look at it.....

reminds me of a ford truck i bought knew one time and in a few thousand miles it developed a main bearing kind of knock in the engine.....the dealer kept telling me it was a normal sound for a ford engine......which worried me since i had another truck at home with 200,000 miles on it that didnt have the normal sound ........

some dealers are good......some are less so

Kip
99 LT
97 Shadow 1100
Jefferson, Ga
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post #6 of 13 Old Mar 16th, 2006, 11:09 am
 
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Terry - The first thing I would check is the rubber. My first thought would be a tire seperation which may not be easily visible. I certainly would not be riding it this way.
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post #7 of 13 Old Mar 16th, 2006, 3:25 pm
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Did they just do a 36K?
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post #8 of 13 Old Mar 17th, 2006, 12:31 am Thread Starter
 
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Pulling to the right

A local BMW club maintenance guru did the bouncing thing with the front wheel for me today, and solved almost all the pulling to the right problem. The bouncing thing works. He had read the same thing somewhere on the internet. Thanks for the very helpful information ... Terry

Quote:
Originally Posted by BkrK12
Just as a really quick test, I'd take the wheels back off and reinstall them according to the shop manual. If they didn't do the bouncing thing with the front end before tightening everything up, they may have cocked the axle.
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post #9 of 13 Old Mar 17th, 2006, 12:34 am Thread Starter
 
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Vibration ...

Yes, the 36K was done and immediately I had the vibration issue. I had a couple of local BMW club buddies check the bike today and they think the valves may not have been done correctly. Their advice was also don't ride it until it is fixed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BecketMa
Did they just do a 36K?
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post #10 of 13 Old Mar 17th, 2006, 12:41 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tthyrne
Yes, the 36K was done and immediately I had the vibration issue. I had a couple of local BMW club buddies check the bike today and they think the valves may not have been done correctly. Their advice was also don't ride it until it is fixed.
How can the valves not being done correctly cause it to pull to the right?
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post #11 of 13 Old Mar 17th, 2006, 1:01 am
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Bouncing thingy?

checked HoW could not find any reference to the "bouncy thingy" can anyone shed some light please

Don
2001 K1200LT "Blue Bomber"
Vancouver Island, BC
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post #12 of 13 Old Mar 17th, 2006, 2:00 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobydoo
checked HoW could not find any reference to the "bouncy thingy" can anyone shed some light please
From the BMW Service Manual, under "Removing/installing Front Wheel":

"Tighten quick-realease axle first. Press down on the forks and release them; repeat this action several times and then tighten the pinch bolts."

So the large bolt on the end of the axle is torqued first, fixing the axle and wheel firmly to the left fork leg. Then bounce the forks up and down a few times so that the right fork leg settles out straight and with a minimum of stress. Then torque the two pinch bolts on the bottom end of the fork legs to hold everything in place.

It's a simple procedure, but easily overlooked, especially if the mechanic is in a hurry.

Anyone who is considering doing any of their own work should get a copy of the Service Manual. The procedures and details such as above are invaluable.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #13 of 13 Old Mar 17th, 2006, 11:42 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meese
From the BMW Service Manual, under "Removing/installing Front Wheel":

"Tighten quick-realease axle first. Press down on the forks and release them; repeat this action several times and then tighten the pinch bolts."

So the large bolt on the end of the axle is torqued first, fixing the axle and wheel firmly to the left fork leg. Then bounce the forks up and down a few times so that the right fork leg settles out straight and with a minimum of stress. Then torque the two pinch bolts on the bottom end of the fork legs to hold everything in place.

It's a simple procedure, but easily overlooked, especially if the mechanic is in a hurry.

Anyone who is considering doing any of their own work should get a copy of the Service Manual. The procedures and details such as above are invaluable.
As Ken says, this should be done in this manner. It Does make a difference if experiencing this feel.

Going to your vibration after the 36 K: HAve the continuity of your plug wires checked. They should be within 10% of each other. I have had similar experience with the vibration, almost like the harmonic distotion of the K Buuzz at 4700 rpm, but only at all rpms. Number 4 plug wire was chafed where the wire fits through opening from coil through the spark plug cover and valve cover. The resistence was zero but still transmitted small current. We replaced all wires and plugs and the vibration ceased with exception of the normal K Buuzz.

Jon Bush
' 09 RT
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