Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Easton, PA, USA
Re: clutch housing allen heads
Apparently soaking the allen screws with PB did the trick. I was able to get all but one backed out and the last one had to be drilled off. Once off, it became clear what damage the trans failure did to the clutch (besides the lube coat). As the bearing and seal disintegrated, the trans input shaft started to wobble which in turn allowed the push rod to wobble. At some point, it blew the center clips that hold the center plate of the diaphragm spring. That was bouncing around inside the clutch pack and caused some surface abrasion damage to the clutch housing. The push rod also shows even "thinning" about 3/4 of an inch back from the concave point that inserts into the diaphragm spring. This happened while it was thrashing around the "center-less" diaphragm. I'll replace that as well.
Have the old clutch pack out and the housing cleaned up. The clutch plate was well within tolerance but so hopelessly soaked with rancid, burnt hypoid, there was no way of reclaiming it. Will yank main seal tomorow and have a brand new clutch pack ready to go back in. As for the trans, I didn't think it appropriate to mention anyone by name on the forum. Since Mugzy opened the door, I'll say this:
Unless someone here knows something I dont, there is no way to bench test a trans without opening it up and measuring lash, mic'ing various tolerances, etc. I simply don't have the tools and jigs to perform an operation like that. It can "feel" fine doing revolutions by hand on the bench although I believe it would difficult to assess shift quality, reverse, etc.
To be clear, I wasn't expecting Mugzy or anyone else to sell me a used trans that was opened up and "certified" perfect; I realize when you buy used engines and gearbox units, it certainly can be hit or miss. Having said that, I have a 1998 Jetta diesel with 398K miles on it. I've kept it running with salvage yard parts for years. If I buy a 5 speed, put it in and it has excessive whine or pops out of gear, the salvage yard takes it back. It's a simple concept. All I asked of Mugzy was that, if after the LT trans was installed (properly of course - which I'd have no way of proving other than my word) and the bike was back on the road, that if the trans had a problem, I could take it off and send it back for a refund.
Mugzy declined to proceed stating that he'd have no way of knowing if I damaged the trans during installation and he'd did not want to lose out on his investment. Aside from maybe dropping in on the floor a few times, I'm not sure how you could damage it, especially using the alignment rods, during the install. But hey, I don't know the man and he doesn't know me. I hold no grudge; it's a free country.
However, I still need a trans so if anyone knows someone who has one and is willing to let me buy it, install it, and, stand behind it until I take the bike for a ride up and back through the gears and try reverse, please give them my name and email.
Thanks again for the advice, oh, and one more trick - you can use the LT oil filter socket to seat the rear main seal into the block. Just insert it while the old one is in place and make a depth mark with a fine pencil. Use the socket to seat the new seal. Wish I could take credit but that one belongs to Dr. Peter Murray - he is on the forum from time to time.