Re: Pig Iron drags her legs
I have had all these problems on my 2002 LT and have trimmed both the bump rubbers, had the rear shock rebuilt (including heavier spring). I have also topped up the pre-load oil a number of times. The rear shock has again sagged to the extent that I could not put it up on the centre stand without help. I havenít resorted yet to chopping bits off the stand. The bike would also ground out the bash plate over speed humps when two up. Better than taking out the mounts on the bottom of the gear box as happened in the very early models. Very expensive to replace the gear box housing.
As I have just retired (yahoooo!) I am getting the bike ready for a tour around Australia starting late April next year. I just finished yesterday in fitting Wilbers to both front and rear, along with a change over rear disk to eliminate the "temple bell syndrome". The short ride I have done so far indicates a firmer but more compliant ride, and a change in the ride height. Interestingly, the front is higher, to the extent that I now have to run the screen a little lower than previous settings.
The rear disk is a change over unit that my local BM service guy stocks. It uses the disk from a R1200C that does NOT have the thimbles that wear and therefore allow the disk to rattle. No sign yet of brake squeal either. I normally coat the back of the pads with anti squeal liquid, but have decided to give it a go without. The changeover disk comes complete on the brake carrier including the ABS ring, so it is an easy job to change over. I had expected to have trauma in undoing the 2 countersunk bolts that attach the carrier, but they cracked undone easily with a long bar. I was expecting to have to use heat from a butane torch to break loose the Loctite used to retain the bolts.
I removed all the tupperwear except for the panniers and top box, as I did the air and fuel filters at the same time - amazing how much better the bike runs with these replaced.
For the shock replacements, I followed instructions from the Hall of Wisdom (great resource) and used the manual that can be downloaded from Black Bears in Russia. 400 pages. I printed it out double sided - I had to do something in my last days at work!
The rear was easy, but the front resisted the process as described in the instructions. The ball joint nut came off easily, but the ball joint shaft would not drop down out of the "A" frame mount. After finally resorting to butchery, there was a tiny gap where it had started to move, so a very gentle insertion of a small screw driver finally broke the bond that had obviously been generated over time. It then came out easily.
I purchased the Wilbers rear shock with both the preload and separate tank that has low and high speed compression adjusters. Lovely bit of kit Ė it is a shame that they are hidden by the fairings. It took a bit of stuffing around to mount the pre load adjuster and the compression tank as the space under the seat is also where I have my Autocom unit mounted. Tight, but OK!
In all, a great to spend my first days of retirement, but an expensive way to cure both ride height and quality of ride issues. Should I have just gone off and purchased a 1600GTL and used up all my savings!
Looking out the window, the sun is shining, gentle breezes and temperature expected to be in the low 20ís Celsius. Suffer all you hard working guys!