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post #1 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 2:32 pm Thread Starter
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Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Thinking about getting off synthetic. Been using synthetic for about 30,000+ miles. The scooter is a 2000 with about 55K on her.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Kimble
Phoenix
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post #2 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 3:36 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

It is a tough habit to kick!!!

I don't see any issues with switching back. I gave it some serious thought when I picked up four quarts of Mobil 1 out in CA for 9.95 each - ouch.

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post #3 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 3:44 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Should not be a problem.

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post #4 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 4:10 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

First I would have to ask WHY? The only advantage I can see is cost. You can go more miles between oil changes with synthetic at a higher cost for the product. IMHO, a liquid cooled engine will do just fine on DINO oil, but I would change oil more frequently, just about a wash on cost

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post #5 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 4:16 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatzo
First I would have to ask WHY? The only advantage I can see is cost. You can go more miles between oil changes with synthetic at a higher cost for the product. IMHO, a liquid cooled engine will do just fine on DINO oil, but I would change oil more frequently, just about a wash on cost
Plus 1
Synthetic oil @ $9.00 to $10.00 per quart (Average price)= 6000 miles
Dino oil @ $4.00 to $5.00 per quart (again average price) = 3000 miles
Same protection from both types = same cost.
The main thing is that YOU CHANGE your oil at regular intervals.

Stevie Shreeve
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post #6 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 4:43 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Well shucks...

I've been changing my oil too often. I've been running about 3000-4000 miles on synthetic.
Maybe I'm just that dense. I did not know one can go 6000K.

Thanks for all the good info guys.

Kimble
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post #7 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 8:21 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

I change mine every 6000 miles regardless of the type of oil. I just grab the nearest oil I have. Yesterday it was 15w40 Mobil Delvac Dino. The change before that was Mobil 1 15w50 Syn. & before that it was Mobil 1 20w50 V-Twin Syn. I'll probably throw in some 5w40 Mobil 1 Syn. on my next change for the winter.

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post #8 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 8:26 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Hi Neel,

I enjoyed talking to you today !!!

There are two critical differences between synthetic and mineral oil.
Synthetics are a much much smaller molecule substance, being able to penetrate into the invisible crevices of metals....which are there, no matter how finely they are machined, but are clearly visible under a microscope. This offers better protection that mineral oil can not match.
Secondly, minerals oils scavange the dirt particles-be it burnt carbon or otherwise and never let go. With synthetic--if after your oil change, you allowed it to settle down a day or two, you will see that it tends to get clear and all the scum settled to the bottom. You should be able to re-use most of this if you carefully poured it off. Try it, you'll be amazed.
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post #9 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 8:33 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by KJN
Thinking about getting off synthetic. Been using synthetic for about 30,000+ miles. The scooter is a 2000 with about 55K on her.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Kimble
Phoenix
How many miles do you ride a year? I would not run any oil much longer than 1 year. A good dino oil will easily go 6,000 miles in a modern liquid cooled engine. I rarely ride more than 6K per year (hopefully, that will change when I retire) so I use dino in my LT even though I am a synthetic fan and have used it in my cars and trucks for 30 years now. If I rode 10K miles a year, I would consider synthetic and change it once a year or at 10K miles whichever came first.

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post #10 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 8:41 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lesn
Hi Neel,

I enjoyed talking to you today !!!

There are two critical differences between synthetic and mineral oil.
Synthetics are a much much smaller molecule substance, being able to penetrate into the invisible crevices of metals....which are there, no matter how finely they are machined, but are clearly visible under a microscope. This offers better protection that mineral oil can not match.
Secondly, minerals oils scavange the dirt particles-be it burnt carbon or otherwise and never let go. With synthetic--if after your oil change, you allowed it to settle down a day or two, you will see that it tends to get clear and all the scum settled to the bottom. You should be able to re-use most of this if you carefully poured it off. Try it, you'll be amazed.
I would like to know the source of your information on molecule size of synthetic vs. dino. I have never seen this claim before and actually nearly the opposite. Dino oil has a wide range of molecule sizes whereas synthetic has much more uniform molecules. However, one of the issues with dino is that at high temps the smaller molecules burn off being more volatile than the large ones. I find it hard to believe that synthetics could both have very small molecules yet also have much better high temp performance. However, I am always open to new data, but what you posted here is contrary to everything I have read about synthetics.

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post #11 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 8:59 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager
How many miles do you ride a year? I would not run any oil much longer than 1 year. A good dino oil will easily go 6,000 miles in a modern liquid cooled engine. I rarely ride more than 6K per year (hopefully, that will change when I retire) so I use dino in my LT even though I am a synthetic fan and have used it in my cars and trucks for 30 years now. If I rode 10K miles a year, I would consider synthetic and change it once a year or at 10K miles whichever came first.
Exactly, changing dino oil at 3K intervals is crazy talk, unless the bike has been operated under severe conditions or getting close to a year since last change.

Regards & Ride Safe!

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post #12 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 9:03 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizmo1137
Exactly, changing dino oil at 3K intervals is crazy talk, unless the bike has been operated under severe conditions or getting close to a year since last change.
Or is a tired old air-cooled engine with lots of blow-by.

Probably a few other circumstances that would warrant 3K intervals, but for an engine like in the LT, that is just a complete waste of oil unless the engine is really worn badly with low compression and rings that are shot.

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post #13 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 9:32 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager
How many miles do you ride a year? I would not run any oil much longer than 1 year. A good dino oil will easily go 6,000 miles in a modern liquid cooled engine. I rarely ride more than 6K per year (hopefully, that will change when I retire) so I use dino in my LT even though I am a synthetic fan and have used it in my cars and trucks for 30 years now. If I rode 10K miles a year, I would consider synthetic and change it once a year or at 10K miles whichever came first.

I ride about 6K per year.

Kimble
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post #14 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 10:01 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager
I would like to know the source of your information on molecule size of synthetic vs. dino. I have never seen this claim before and actually nearly the opposite. Dino oil has a wide range of molecule sizes whereas synthetic has much more uniform molecules. However, one of the issues with dino is that at high temps the smaller molecules burn off being more volatile than the large ones. I find it hard to believe that synthetics could both have very small molecules yet also have much better high temp performance. However, I am always open to new data, but what you posted here is contrary to everything I have read about synthetics.
I was merely speaking from personal experience.
In my other life, I was a technologist at factory--one of our machines was cammed at such high angle, that direct injection of oil-using 5 spray nosels was required to keep this machine from over heating and shuting down from expension. We have gone through 55 gallons of high quality oil every few weeks. I had never even heard about synthetic oil at that time ( 35-40 years ago) It was Duboi Chemicals that introduced me to their newly developed synthetic, with documentation to their test data and theory, backed by microscopic pictures and wear data,
I gave it a try and low and behold, not only did our consumption of lubricant went down by 75% , but the normal tear down to clean the equipment went from every 3 months to once a year. Furthermore, the spent oil which was collected, was so clean after settling, that we re-used 70% of it, versus the mineral which had to be discarded.
Granted, this was not in a motor but in a very sophisticated high speed manufacturing machine, running 24 hrs a day.
The main drive systems, where a motor..turning a main drive shaft and this shaft being supported withinn brass bushings, similarly, the life of these bushings were extended x4, once switched to synthetic lubrication.
Is there a difference amongst the synthetics? Quite possibly--I don't really know.
This is all I can offer you
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post #15 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 10:24 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lesn
I was merely speaking from personal experience.
In my other life, I was a technologist at factory--one of our machines was cammed at such high angle, that direct injection of oil-using 5 spray nosels was required to keep this machine from over heating and shuting down from expension. We have gone through 55 gallons of high quality oil every few weeks. I had never even heard about synthetic oil at that time ( 35-40 years ago) It was Duboi Chemicals that introduced me to their newly developed synthetic, with documentation to their test data and theory, backed by microscopic pictures and wear data,
I gave it a try and low and behold, not only did our consumption of lubricant went down by 75% , but the normal tear down to clean the equipment went from every 3 months to once a year. Furthermore, the spent oil which was collected, was so clean after settling, that we re-used 70% of it, versus the mineral which had to be discarded.
Granted, this was not in a motor but in a very sophisticated high speed manufacturing machine, running 24 hrs a day.
The main drive systems, where a motor..turning a main drive shaft and this shaft being supported withinn brass bushings, similarly, the life of these bushings were extended x4, once switched to synthetic lubrication.
Is there a difference amongst the synthetics? Quite possibly--I don't really know.
This is all I can offer you
So there...

I'm going to run synthetic for 6K or 1 year, which ever comes first.

Thanks Les...

Kimble
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post #16 of 41 Old Sep 18th, 2011, 11:10 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

I pay - $7 per quart for synthetic, and UOA tells me to extend to 11,000 per change. For me, there'd be no reason to change.
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post #17 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 6:20 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Just bought oil for a change yesterday, went Synthetic myself.... I found this interesting article that does a comparison on Syn vs. Petroleum in various categories, It's an easy two page read that should help you make a decision for yourself, one thing of note I found most enlightening was not all Synthetic oil is rated for extended use.

Happy reading.

Lube Notes 5 - Synthetic Versus Petroleum (The Lube Page.com )

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post #18 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 9:26 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Just an aside to this conversation, as most of you know, BMW only requires oil and changes every 6K (or once a year) with "dyno" oil of the specified grade and viscosity to be warranty compliant.

Engine materials and oil quality these days make the 3K oil changes a bit of an anachronism.

As for synthetic.....if I'm using synthetic in a particular bike or car....I often go way over 6K miles between changes and so far have seen no problems.

JD

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post #19 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 9:56 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddleman
I change mine every 6000 miles regardless of the type of oil. I just grab the nearest oil I have. Yesterday it was 15w40 Mobil Delvac Dino. The change before that was Mobil 1 15w50 Syn. & before that it was Mobil 1 20w50 V-Twin Syn. I'll probably throw in some 5w40 Mobil 1 Syn. on my next change for the winter.

You are such a renegade.....

changing oil types all the time like that.

I am surprised you bike even starts

I did notice that you run Mobil all the time.

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post #20 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 10:46 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Excerpts from my soon to be released book...


So periodic oil and filter changes should still be done with synthetic oil; but some synthetic oil suppliers suggest that the intervals between oil changes can be longer, sometimes as long as 10,000 to 15,000 miles.

Tests show that fully synthetic oil is superior in extreme vehicle service conditions to conventional oil and they may perform better for longer periods under standard conditions. But in the vast majority of motorcycle engine applications, petroleum based lubricants, fortified with additives continue to be the primary lubricant.


and...

There is also no problem with switching back and forth between synthetic and petroleum based oils. In fact, people who are "in the know" and who operate engines in areas where temperature fluctuations can be especially extreme, switch from petroleum based to synthetic oils for the colder months. They then switch back to petroleum based oils during the warmer months.

In some racing circles, the wrenches in charge do a 4 to 1 mix of “dino” to synthetic in the race vehicles crank case. What you end up with is 75% of the synthetic oil's benefits when using high quality synthetic fluids. In fact, some shade tree mechanics have been doing it for years. They get the benefit of synthetics, but it costs 40% less.


So... rock on!!! I run a 9K rotation for changes in my cars. I have a 1996 Toy that has over 140K on that strategy... Still pulls better then some of the whiz-bang 6 cylinder models. The LT is now on a 10K rotation.

Then again... that's just me...

Uncle Mark

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post #21 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 11:01 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

It was my understanding that is not the size of the molecules it is that they are totally uniform in size in synthetic oil.

The mian advantage I have read is in boundary wear. In other words on startup (where much of the engine wear takes place before the oil has had a chance to adequately circulate)synthetic does a much better job of leaving a coating on the engine parts and is more slippery due to the uniform size of the molecules.

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post #22 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 12:00 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

I can tell you from experience that in terms of the transmission oil that dino oil seems to be the way to go. The main seal kept weeping and contaminating my clutch. I changed that seal 3 times. I then went back to an experience I had on the FJR. If I put synthetic gear oil in the final drive, it would weep past the seal. I changed it to dinosaur oil, and 72,000 km's later it has never been a problem.

On this go around with the main seal, I changed to Dino oil in the transmission for the LT. I'm only 6,000 km's in, but so far, no more contaminated clutch.
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post #23 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 7:49 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lesn
I was merely speaking from personal experience.
In my other life, I was a technologist at factory--one of our machines was cammed at such high angle, that direct injection of oil-using 5 spray nosels was required to keep this machine from over heating and shuting down from expension. We have gone through 55 gallons of high quality oil every few weeks. I had never even heard about synthetic oil at that time ( 35-40 years ago) It was Duboi Chemicals that introduced me to their newly developed synthetic, with documentation to their test data and theory, backed by microscopic pictures and wear data,
I gave it a try and low and behold, not only did our consumption of lubricant went down by 75% , but the normal tear down to clean the equipment went from every 3 months to once a year. Furthermore, the spent oil which was collected, was so clean after settling, that we re-used 70% of it, versus the mineral which had to be discarded.
Granted, this was not in a motor but in a very sophisticated high speed manufacturing machine, running 24 hrs a day.
The main drive systems, where a motor..turning a main drive shaft and this shaft being supported withinn brass bushings, similarly, the life of these bushings were extended x4, once switched to synthetic lubrication.
Is there a difference amongst the synthetics? Quite possibly--I don't really know.
This is all I can offer you
An engine is a quite different environment than the machine you worked with. Suspending contaminants is what engine oil is supposed to do. Letting them settle out is bad. Actually, something similar happened to Mobil 1 when they offered their oil for use in piston airplane engines. Avgas still has very high lead content. Unlike dino oils, the synthetic Mobil did not keep the lead in solution and instead let it form a thick pasty sludge in parts of the engine that caused all sorts of grief such as the oil passages that provide the oil that controls the pitch of constant speed props.

Mobil finally pulled the product after a spate of such problems. So, synthetic is not universally good in all applications.

http://www.avweb.com/news/news/182891-1.html

I have not heard of issues with synthetic failing to suspect contaminants in auto engines using unleaded fuel, but if what you observed is also happening in engines, then that is not a good thing.

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post #24 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 8:21 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

What does BMW recomends? I would stick to whatever the manufacturer recomends. Remember, some engines are designed to run with syn. And others not. Bayerische Motoren Werke AG (Bavarian Motor Works) guys are pretty smart and they test and retest the product before putting it on the market. Remember, some syn. oils contain PTFE, (teflon) wich could be harmful to a engine not designed to use it. FAA stopped the use of PTFE containing products on jet engines because of what they could do to some parts not designed for it. I`m not expert on oils or jet engines, and I don`t even remember if I went thru the owner`s manual to check for oil specs on my `07 LT, but being a ASE master and Nissan and Infinity platinum master with over 25 years of experience, I have learn to stick to what the manufacturer recomends for better performance and longivity. My 2 cents.

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post #25 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 8:53 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pauleknight
I did notice that you run Mobil all the time.
My stock of 100 cases of free Mobil oil is slowly dwindling & now that I'm off the free deal I might just have to increase my oil change intervals.

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post #26 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 9:46 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Well since this oil thread is getting legs I would note I have recently switched from Syn to Dino only because I wish
the change out the filter more frequently than 6000 miles.

The future will eventually be all Syn with the more demanding engine specifications and requirements.

Listened to a automotive engineer sometime ago on a local auto call in show - after 30 callers called with all the
wild and crazy opinions, experiences and stories of what dad did the bottom line was "use what the manufacturer
calls for" - this is based upon that fact that the engine designers work closely with the lubrication engineers
and make their recommendations based upon upon materials, manufacturing tolerances and testing.

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post #27 of 41 Old Sep 19th, 2011, 10:12 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

BMW's schedule of maintainance as I understand it is for the break-in of the new engine. Thus the 3,000 filter and 20w50 conv. oil. Some have argued 25K - 30K for said break-in. Now with all the varying experiences on this thread I am not sure what direction to take. But it would be some time since I just crossed the 12K line. Plus staying with that current regiment could not hurt. As I put more miles on in a season I may want to change that. My question is would the filter last for the life of the oil.
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post #28 of 41 Old Sep 20th, 2011, 12:48 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

The disadvantage of synthetics is that they tend to leak past seals easier than dinos. This does not mean that every synthetic engine will spring a leak but many times seepage can be cured by going back to dino. As for myself, oil and filter every 5,000 with dino and valves every 10,000. Makes it pretty easy to remember.


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post #29 of 41 Old Oct 5th, 2011, 8:36 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

I have used Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil (synthetic) in my trans/diff in my 2001 R1100S sinse I've owned it. (bought it used with 6000mi). I change the Redline out every 2yrs. It has 47k on it now and I have never had a seal problem. The synthetic trans oil makes it shift real nice. I use Castrol GTX in the engine. No preference for Castrol, just a pretty bottle I guess. I go 3000-4000mi between oil changes. I plan on doing the same with my 05 LT I just bought. Like alot of you, I have owned alot of motorcycles in my 35yrs of riding. I have never had an oil related engine problem and I have always used Dyno oil. Good enough for me.
Bo
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post #30 of 41 Old Oct 5th, 2011, 9:42 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Probably already been covered here, but... If the cost of the oil is a wash by being able to go more miles on synthetic, if you ad in the cost of a new filter each time, the synthetic will be less costly as you will use many less filters in the change over time.

Just a thought, yours may vary and that's ok too.

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post #31 of 41 Old Oct 6th, 2011, 3:52 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Got back from a rockies trip a few days ago and changed my oil, 8642 miles Valvoline 15-50 syn, happy that the oil level only went from top of glass to just below center. Sent in a sample for analysis including TBN so it should tell me approx miles before it really needs to be changed. Replaced with 20-50 non syn and will do the same in about another 6K.

04 K1200LT, 05 F650GS
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post #32 of 41 Old Oct 6th, 2011, 4:42 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

I sure am glad this subject came up. I just did an oil change yesterday on mine to the synthetic "oil that shall not be mentioned". While I was researching it here on this site I came across the impression that it is taboo to mention it. Since I am relatively new here (under a year) I would like to know why? To give you a hint of the brand I am referring to it starts with the first letter in the alphabet and has oil as the last part. I don't want my thread to get ***'d so I wont go to far with it. But seriously it seems that we can name every other oil on the market but that one. Is there others as well?

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post #33 of 41 Old Oct 7th, 2011, 9:02 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 14wntr
I sure am glad this subject came up. I just did an oil change yesterday on mine to the synthetic "oil that shall not be mentioned". While I was researching it here on this site I came across the impression that it is taboo to mention it. Since I am relatively new here (under a year) I would like to know why? To give you a hint of the brand I am referring to it starts with the first letter in the alphabet and has oil as the last part. I don't want my thread to get ***'d so I wont go to far with it. But seriously it seems that we can name every other oil on the market but that one. Is there others as well?
Don't worry about it. Lots of people use it and it's fine. Just do not try to sell it or explain why it is better .that everything under the sun.

"BONES" <///><
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post #34 of 41 Old Oct 7th, 2011, 11:39 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

I recently switched from synthetic to dino.

The drip of oil leaking thru the engine seal stopped.

My LT has had seepage since I've owned it?
Maybe it started after I switched to synthetic after my second oil change?

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post #35 of 41 Old Oct 17th, 2011, 10:09 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by KJN
Thinking about getting off synthetic. Been using synthetic for about 30,000+ miles. The scooter is a 2000 with about 55K on her.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enduro
Got back from a rockies trip a few days ago and changed my oil, 8642 miles Valvoline 15-50 syn, happy that the oil level only went from top of glass to just below center. Sent in a sample for analysis including TBN so it should tell me approx miles before it really needs to be changed. Replaced with 20-50 non syn and will do the same in about another 6K.
Got my analysis back, copper is just a tad high, everything else is within normal range. Recommendation is, if I want, to extend an additional 2000 miles to 10600 and check levels again to see if further extension is possible. But I already have non-syn in.

Anyone know where copper can be coming from? Is there any bronze or brass in the crank? I'm wondering if the exterior of the oil filter itself can add contaminants being immersed in the oil, will the painted exterior leech into the oil? Don't see why you design a spin-on filter to be placed in the oil.

04 K1200LT, 05 F650GS
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post #36 of 41 Old Oct 17th, 2011, 10:48 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

I just yesterday picked up two 5 quart containers of Mobil 1 15w50 for $26.00 each at WalMart. That's a pretty good price.

Jim Bessette

Last edited by jimbes; Oct 17th, 2011 at 10:48 am. Reason: typo
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post #37 of 41 Old Oct 17th, 2011, 1:21 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

The con-rod bearings (big end) are tinned with copper over the steel shells prior to the white-metal application. Likewise for the main bearings. In time the copper can become visible. How many Km's/miles on the engine ? Has tin, lead and zinc been elevated on previous oil sample reports ?

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post #38 of 41 Old Oct 17th, 2011, 4:04 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

I second the fact that synthetic is more susceptible to weeping at a seal. Many cases of switching back to dino will stop this .

Oil in a combustion engine must hold impurities in suspension. When this particulate thresold is overcome it is past time to change regardless of type.
Synthetic biggest + is better cold flow and higher temp stability. It is a big plus to aircooled engines that will see high oil temp (read HD)

I have a friend who has operated a independent bike repair shop for 20yrs(and he is fully BMW certified) does not recommend synthetic in the k1200lt as in his experience has a tendency to cause weeping. Not worth risk at rear seal.

Also all synthetics are not created equal........Castrol "Syntec for instance is not a true synthetic and was taken to court by Mobil for stating it was. Court ruled in Castrol favor, so now Mobil has lowered the quality of there synthetic to compete in the price margin.
Cant remember where I read this now........
That being said, I have used Castrol Syntec ever since it came out at least 15yrs ago(mostly because I can get a good price at our local Costco store). I use in in my cars and have over 450000km on one Corolla with no issues except leaking front seal for last 30000km.
I use 15/W40 Rotella T in my diesel truck and my motorcycles and change at manufacters recommended intervals if possible.

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post #39 of 41 Old Oct 18th, 2011, 2:08 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by K100Dennis
The con-rod bearings (big end) are tinned with copper over the steel shells prior to the white-metal application. Likewise for the main bearings. In time the copper can become visible. How many Km's/miles on the engine ? Has tin, lead and zinc been elevated on previous oil sample reports ?
This is my first analysis with this bike, they keep a database for each model bike and they have one on the LT. In the analysis you are provided your current values, all previous analysis levels (if they exist), and an average level (single number, not a range) calculated from their database for that bike model. Along with the numerical levels they include a textual interpretation of the numbers. On mine with no previous history the only values outside of acceptable ranges based on averages for all LT were the copper and flash point. Other tests and elements were both above and below the calculated average but they considered them within an acceptable range from the average. The only things flagged were the copper and flash point. About 45K miles.

04 K1200LT, 05 F650GS

Last edited by Enduro; Oct 18th, 2011 at 2:25 pm. Reason: added mileage
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post #40 of 41 Old Oct 18th, 2011, 9:37 pm
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

About once a year the AutoZone puts their 2050 conventional oil on sale in the 5 quart jug. Brand name mind you. Price is about $2.50/quart. I purchase 15 of them and I am good for the year. Change it every 3000 miles and life has been good. I have 40K on the 09 lt at this time. I tried the mobile 1 for a long trip once (4800 mile run) and was disappointed. The bike consumed it. Dumped that stuff about 1000 miles into the trip and put my go to dino oil back in. Guess what? No consumption. I believe the synthetics have their place in the market but I just can seem to find a place for it in my go to list. I would rather put the $$ in gasoline and good food at the end of the days ride. Don't let the emotion of a marketing campaign get the best of your wallet.
If you want to take it a step further...there are a handful of refineries, I am told, that make the oil we find. Check out the cheap stuff on the bottom shelf. You may be surprised to find the same standards compliance.
Do you homework and make your own decisions...thats why we bought BMW's...right?

PS...Same approach with the oil filters
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post #41 of 41 Old Oct 19th, 2011, 1:52 am
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Re: Changing to conventional from synthetic oil?

Some years ago I happened to hear a woman on a local radio station interviewing Richard Petty. After doing the obligatory stuff about his racing career, etc she asked "with all of your expertise in auto racing and your business background in the sport, what about your wife's car. I bet it must be a really well serviced one?"

"<chuckle> Naaaa....I never fuss with it at all."

"Well, don't you at least make sure she has frequent oil changes with the best brand?"

"Heck no. I don't ever do anything about her car's oil till the light comes on...."

Every time an oil thread on a list gets legs and runs for a while......I recall that interview, for some reason.

JD

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