retro-fitting cruise and computer - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 9 Old Aug 20th, 2011, 3:10 pm Thread Starter
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retro-fitting cruise and computer

Just bought another K1200LT (my eighth!)
It's a 1999 "base" model and it's not fitted with heated grips, trip compute nor cruise control.
As these bikes are a good few years old now, there are quite a few being broken for parts.
My question is, if I were to buy the parts from a dismantlers, could I just fit them? Is the loom, ECU etc common to all LT's with the extra connectors fitted but unused?
Any advice appreciated
Thanks
Simon

2006 k1200LT........my 13th!
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post #2 of 9 Old Aug 21st, 2011, 11:39 am Thread Starter
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Re: retro-fitting cruise and computer

Nobody?

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post #3 of 9 Old Aug 21st, 2011, 3:37 pm
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Re: retro-fitting cruise and computer

Ok I will bite I am very familiar with the arrangement on the K1200RS and possibly the K1200LT could be "a little" different, but you will see where this is going...

1) The 1st generation k1200RS (1997-2001) did not have a cruise as a factory option and many have taught to do what you want to do when he 2nd generation K1200RS came out.

2) On the K1200RS, you need to buy many parts (see list below) and the main-wiring harness is different (front section , under the nose fairing). So unless you are an expert in manual wiring and love to read wiring diagrams, you are in for quite a job.

3) The cruise-control unit main connector (leading to the missing section of wiring-harness) is a 10 pins connector with 9 wires being used. Most inputs-outputs go to the left handlebar switch gear -OR- the micro-switches to de-activate the cruise (brakes, throttle, clutch).

4) A rough list of parts needed:
- Throttle-bodies (sold as an assembly that has an additional pulley for the 3rd cable between the cruise-unit and the throttle ramp)
- Cruise-control unit plus cable (3rd cable)
- Left handlebar switchgear (contains cruise, left flasher, horn , high-low beam)
- micro-switch on throttle-bodies to de-activate cruise
- micro-switch under clutch lever to de-activate cruise
- a 2nd throttle cable plus possibly a new throttle assembly at the handlebar (I am not 100% for the K1200LT)


My short answer would be either
"do not think about it"
or "trade it for another K1200LT with a cruise" :-)

-------------------------------------------------
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 95,000 miles)
-------------------------------------------------
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post #4 of 9 Old Aug 21st, 2011, 4:11 pm
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Re: retro-fitting cruise and computer

See attached picture to see what the large Cruise-unit connector looks like.

If you have the same wiring harness as the cruise-control model, you should see this connector freely tied (unused) under the nose fairing, on the left side of the front sub-frame.
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-------------------------------------------------
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 95,000 miles)
-------------------------------------------------
Think twice before you hit [SUBMIT REPLY] - famous quote by another member:
"The value of this board is not founded on dismissing the ideas of others, but by posting to share our experiences and what we've learned from them."

Last edited by sailor; Aug 21st, 2011 at 4:11 pm. Reason: added a picture
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post #5 of 9 Old Aug 22nd, 2011, 5:05 am Thread Starter
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Re: retro-fitting cruise and computer

Thanks John,
I'll look into the connector, see if it's there.
I would only contemplate this sort of exercise as I would probably be able to buy the parts secondhand from a motorcycle dismantler.
I'd be quite happy to do the work if I could get the parts for a reasonable price, otherwise like you say, too much hassle!
Thanks again
Simon

2006 k1200LT........my 13th!
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post #6 of 9 Old Aug 22nd, 2011, 10:59 pm
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Re: retro-fitting cruise and computer

Hi there. I've just done some of these mods to my '99. Mine was the base model, but did have cruise control.

I purchased after market heated grips and just this past week relocated the control up on the right hand dash just left of the headlight control. I had to use a Dremel tool with a thin cut-off wheel to trim off the front of my controller and I measured the distance from the center of the 1/4" stem of the pot to the red light indicator. Cut these with the appropriate drills and installed that from behind the dash. The Heat Troller is back under the passenger seat.

I looked closely and found that the necessary wiring and plugs for both the On-Board Computer and the necessary Temp Sensor were there in the correct place. The large plug for the OBC is pull-tied to the frame just behind where it mounts on the left dash panel. I cleaned that out with some small pieces of Emery Cloth as over 10 years out in the open had them really dirty. A little time with the cloth and then spray electrical spray cleaner did the trick. The connector for the Temp Sensor is pull-tied just above the twin air intake openings under the head lights.

I found both the Temp Sensor and the On-Board Computer on eBay at a pretty good savings. The OBC was about $125. I measured the necessary opening for the OBC and made a cardboard template to mark and cut that out with the Dremel tool and used a Carbide cutting bit that is 1/8" in diameter to cut holes close together. DO NOT just cut out where the thin indention line is shown on the dash panel as that will be way too large. I then used the cut-off tool to cut between the holes. Used the Carbide bit to make necessary cuts to get it to fit and then decided to just use some 6 min epoxy from my R/C days to hold it in. Used alcohol to clean the areas before mixing..

I had, in the mean time, purchased a right hand control from a member, but on getting it, it was very faded, so I just put that away. I took the right hand control from my bike apart and saw where the BMW button control would have been that's used to cycle through the 4 screens on the OBC. The computer uses a gate circuit to cycle, that is it only takes a single ground wire and a micro momentary switch, and going to ground switches the computer screens. Switch was about $4 at a local electronics store, and I traced out the circuit in my Clymers manual to find the correct wire wire coming from the OBC computer. Again I used the Dremel tool to cut out the slots needed to mount that micro switch in the right hand control and ran one side of the contacts to the brown wire (ground) and the other side to the control wire on the OBC. It cycles through just like it was hooked up at the factory.

I also mounted a new switch up in the right hand dash near the headlight control knob that switches a relay to control the Moto Lights that were on the bike. The original owner had the large switch mounted to the left of the radio and I didn't like that clutter. While I was doing all of this, I had all the pieces of the dash repainted black at an automotive paint shop. So now with the new stuff just mentioned and the new Jensen 2212 installed and the J&M CB/Intercom relocated just above the Jensen, the bike looks slick and is a pleasure to ride and listen to.

Good luck on yours

Tommy
77 years old and gittin' younger
__________________________________________________ __
'07 K1200LT Black w/color matched Hannigan Europa II Trailer
'09 KLR650 heavily modified for the TAT


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post #7 of 9 Old Aug 23rd, 2011, 4:45 am Thread Starter
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Re: retro-fitting cruise and computer

Thanks Tommy.

Simon

2006 k1200LT........my 13th!
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post #8 of 9 Old Aug 23rd, 2011, 8:52 am
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Re: retro-fitting cruise and computer

Tommy! Whatcha thinkin?



We want to see your handiwork!



Quote:
Originally Posted by tconnell
Hi there. I've just done some of these mods to my '99. Mine was the base model, but did have cruise control.

I purchased after market heated grips and just this past week relocated the control up on the right hand dash just left of the headlight control. I had to use a Dremel tool with a thin cut-off wheel to trim off the front of my controller and I measured the distance from the center of the 1/4" stem of the pot to the red light indicator. Cut these with the appropriate drills and installed that from behind the dash. The Heat Troller is back under the passenger seat.

I looked closely and found that the necessary wiring and plugs for both the On-Board Computer and the necessary Temp Sensor were there in the correct place. The large plug for the OBC is pull-tied to the frame just behind where it mounts on the left dash panel. I cleaned that out with some small pieces of Emery Cloth as over 10 years out in the open had them really dirty. A little time with the cloth and then spray electrical spray cleaner did the trick. The connector for the Temp Sensor is pull-tied just above the twin air intake openings under the head lights.

I found both the Temp Sensor and the On-Board Computer on eBay at a pretty good savings. The OBC was about $125. I measured the necessary opening for the OBC and made a cardboard template to mark and cut that out with the Dremel tool and used a Carbide cutting bit that is 1/8" in diameter to cut holes close together. DO NOT just cut out where the thin indention line is shown on the dash panel as that will be way too large. I then used the cut-off tool to cut between the holes. Used the Carbide bit to make necessary cuts to get it to fit and then decided to just use some 6 min epoxy from my R/C days to hold it in. Used alcohol to clean the areas before mixing..

I had, in the mean time, purchased a right hand control from a member, but on getting it, it was very faded, so I just put that away. I took the right hand control from my bike apart and saw where the BMW button control would have been that's used to cycle through the 4 screens on the OBC. The computer uses a gate circuit to cycle, that is it only takes a single ground wire and a micro momentary switch, and going to ground switches the computer screens. Switch was about $4 at a local electronics store, and I traced out the circuit in my Clymers manual to find the correct wire wire coming from the OBC computer. Again I used the Dremel tool to cut out the slots needed to mount that micro switch in the right hand control and ran one side of the contacts to the brown wire (ground) and the other side to the control wire on the OBC. It cycles through just like it was hooked up at the factory.

I also mounted a new switch up in the right hand dash near the headlight control knob that switches a relay to control the Moto Lights that were on the bike. The original owner had the large switch mounted to the left of the radio and I didn't like that clutter. While I was doing all of this, I had all the pieces of the dash repainted black at an automotive paint shop. So now with the new stuff just mentioned and the new Jensen 2212 installed and the J&M CB/Intercom relocated just above the Jensen, the bike looks slick and is a pleasure to ride and listen to.

Good luck on yours

WAK1200LT
Loren

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post #9 of 9 Old Aug 23rd, 2011, 10:42 am Thread Starter
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Talking Re: retro-fitting cruise and computer

Base model = Poverty spec

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