New Throttle Cables - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 10 Old Mar 7th, 2006, 10:33 pm Thread Starter
 
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New Throttle Cables

Okay, bike is all torn apart, (2002), did the fuel/airfilter, plugs, coolant and valve check. I have these beautiful new throttle cables to install, time to do it. How to get into the throttle body area is my question. Looks to me like the fan shroud and airbox need to be removed to make room. Is this correct? Before I break something tomorrow any advise from those that have already been there would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
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post #2 of 10 Old Mar 8th, 2006, 12:57 am
 
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It's worth investing in a copy of the repair manual if you are going to do your own maintenance. Throttle cable removal and installation is covered in Section 13 - Fuel preparation and control. Here are the recommended steps:
Preparatory work for all Bowden cables

– Remove left and right fairing side sections.

– Remove tank cover.

– Remove fuel tank.

– Remove left air outlet duct.

• Disconnect plugs (1) of injection valves.
• Remove fuel injection rail.
• [Activated charcoal filter] Remove timing valve from its holder.
• Remove intake air silencer.
I did it by the book, but there are some very dextrous folks who managed without removing the air silencer (where the air filter installs).
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post #3 of 10 Old Mar 8th, 2006, 12:57 am
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Mike, just go slow and use the knowledge of this forum and you should have no probs! Here is one thread about the two throttle cables from our Hall of Wisdom (HOW) that David posted with some fantastic pics of where the cables attach to the throttle bodies: http://www.bmwlt.net/ubbthreads/show...apsed&sb=5&o=7

You can do it without removing the air box, but the fan shroud on that side will need to be removed. Its simple with just two torx screw and one electrical connector. just make sure you do put it back on before you remount the fuel tank, or it will be almost impossible! DAMHIK!

You can also find a lot of info on this subject in the old site as well where most of our archived info is located. That is one of the forums which you can click into from the forums page.

You will appreciate the difference the new cables will make! I did!

John

John & Marilyn Fisher
'00 K1200LTC "Katie"
'95 Triumph "Tigger"
'12 Triumph 800XC "Tigger II" (RIP)
'12 Triumph 1200 Explorer "Shadow Tigger"
Hillsboro, Oregon

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post #4 of 10 Old Mar 8th, 2006, 5:24 am
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Talking Throttle body clamps

Do yourself a favor and buy 2 additional clamps just like the ones on cylinder 3 - 4. The so called non reusable clamps on cylinder 1-2 are a bear to work with. Align new clamps so not to interfere with throttle rail! I have reused the clamps on # 1-2 and the #1 clamp opened up and left me with a wonderful secondary cruse control. It wedged into the throttle rail and stuck the throttle almost WFO.

Pete Murray
IBA # 359 and
2014 RT
1973 R75/5
2002 LT 171 K Gone
2008 FJR 36 K Gone
Stroudsburg, PA
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post #5 of 10 Old Mar 8th, 2006, 9:21 am
 
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Just installed mine 2 weeks ago and it takes some time but just follow what you get on this site. Go to Home Depot, lowes, Menards or your favorite hardware store and get a pair of long handled hemostats or a very long curved needle nose pliers. This will allow you to hook up the cable ends to the throttle bodies without removing the fuel rail. You should only have to remove the radio console, the left fan shroud, and just remove the bolts that secure the fuel tank so that you can move it up and out of the way to attach the cable ends. Thread the cables first along the existing one from the handle bars. Do not attach the grip ends till you have the throttle bodies hooked up. A good head mounted flash light will also help in freeing your hands up for attaching the cable ends while giving very good light. Detach the old cable from the grip end, then detach the old cable from the throttle bodies. You should be able to move the throttle bodies with something long so that you can remove the old cable and insert the new. Once the new ones are inserted then verify the cable run is following the old cable exactly and then you can remove the old ones. Now attach the new cables to the grip and secure the new cables in place. At the grip you will have to cut the old plastic piece. I used wire snips to do that. There is a great picture in the archives for dremeling location of your handle bar plastic. Just follow that. Install new plastic at the grip and attach cables and your done.
The new installation will snap back like never before with the old. You may have a slight hang up when handle bar turned fully left.
Make sure to check your cruise control after install. I did not have to make any adjustments.
My throttle was so bad that I wore through the rubber grip. I had to install a new one with the new cable. All things are good now. Good luck.

Phil
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post #6 of 10 Old Mar 8th, 2006, 7:30 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thanks all, I'm well on my way. I'm not removing the airbox or fuel rail. Have cables physically in place, need to retrieve some super long longnose pliers from work tomorrow and I have confidence it will be over in short time. Detaching the old cable clipped to the microswitch bracket and attaching the new was easier than I expected.
Thanks again,
Mike
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post #7 of 10 Old Jun 2nd, 2006, 9:23 pm
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Unhappy Throttle Cables yet again...

I was able to install the new throttle cables without removing the airbox also. I thought I was doing good. While the scooter was naked I went ahead and swapped out the air filter and the fuel filter. Assembled everything back to how it was. Started her up and she ran good for about five minutes. Throttle response it much easier. After the five minutes, it sounded like she ran out of gas. Now she won't start. I disconnected the fuel line disconnects and reconnected them. Once I did this I noticed there wasn't a whole lot of fuel that spilled out. Now I know the disconnects are supposed to let a little bit out. Could I have fudged the fuel filter since there isn't a lot of fuel spill? I remember the first time removing the tank maybe an ounce? This time, drops. I might have answered my own question. Any words of wisdom besides "don't bite off more than you can chew?"
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post #8 of 10 Old Jun 3rd, 2006, 12:11 am
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I think you are on to the most likely explanation. I just replaced my fuel filter and there is an arrow on it. If you did not get that arrow going the right direction, it could account for the fuel starvation you seem to be experiencing. Unfortunately, you will need to remove the right side panel to find out.
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post #9 of 10 Old Jun 3rd, 2006, 12:59 am
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Besides the flow arrow, be sure the two hoses are connected well. They can slip off, so the fuel pump just moves fuel around inside the tank. If it's either of those two problems, you'll know as soon as you get the pump assembly back out.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #10 of 10 Old Jun 3rd, 2006, 9:37 am
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I removed the tank again then removed the fuel filter. Verified the arrows were lined up then put everything back together. Connected the fuel lines and she cranked right up. I am at a loss unless I had the fuel lines on the tank connected together and the fuel lines for the motor connected together. I have done worse. Oh well. Throttle is 100% better now and she is up and running. Time to get the wife to watch the kids and hit some twisties. Thanks for the replies.
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