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post #1 of 17 Old Jan 21st, 2011, 1:28 pm Thread Starter
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Rear Seal and others issues

I place my bike (2005 LT 50,000 miles) in storage and since the dealer has a winter discount for work done during the winter. I decide to take advantage of it. So I asked for fluid changes (annual maintenance) and a new front tire. So I get a call that they also wanted me to include a coolant flush since it has been 5+ years. I thought this sounds reasonable.
Well today I get a call that my rear main seal appears to be leaking and the steering damper is also leaking and some other value appear to be going.
I have had work done before by this dealer and they seem to be upright but this seems to be fishy to me.
Now I know everything they mention could be issue and so my question is how can really tell what they are telling me is so?
I well be going tues to look at the bike and verify the problems. What should I be looking for?
Also I believe mechanically I can do this myself but I really do not have the equipment, a lift and special tools if needed.

Any feedback on this topic would be appericated

They want $3200 for all the repairs

Thanks
Jim

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post #2 of 17 Old Jan 21st, 2011, 1:55 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

Jim, your dealer probably spotted engine oil seeping from the area where you clutch housing and engine attach. If that's the case, it's a valid assumption that the rear main seal is leaking. Were it mine (and I just went through this last spring), I would clean the area up, take it out for a spin, and verify that it is in fact leaking, and that it is in fact engine oil. There are other components that can leak in that area, but bottom line, if one is gone, you'll likely want to replace them all.
I did my clutch, both pressure plates, slave valve, all seals and rebuilt my final drive for $1,000. I do have a lift, but made my own specialty tools. I'm not a mechanic or a machinist, and the job was pretty straight forward and enjoyable.
Good luck to ya.
Frank
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post #3 of 17 Old Jan 21st, 2011, 2:11 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by fpmlt
Jim, your dealer probably spotted engine oil seeping from the area where you clutch housing and engine attach. If that's the case, it's a valid assumption that the rear main seal is leaking. Were it mine (and I just went through this last spring), I would clean the area up, take it out for a spin, and verify that it is in fact leaking, and that it is in fact engine oil. There are other components that can leak in that area, but bottom line, if one is gone, you'll likely want to replace them all.
I did my clutch, both pressure plates, slave valve, all seals and rebuilt my final drive for $1,000. I do have a lift, but made my own specialty tools. I'm not a mechanic or a machinist, and the job was pretty straight forward and enjoyable.
Good luck to ya.
Frank
+1. Sounds reasonable to me and Frank makes a good point about cleaning up the area, then riding to determine if it is leaking. I know you must be suffering from sticker shock, but I had the rear main seal go on a 99LT I owned and with some special considerations on price, I paid $1,900 for the repair. Had I not received the considerations, it would have been $2400 beans.

Regards & Ride Safe!

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post #4 of 17 Old Jan 21st, 2011, 3:11 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

I would think that by 2005, BMW would have changed the manufacture of the seal. I know that I will get feedback on this, but I would put in regular oil. The regular oil will swell the seals more that the synthetic oils. It may be enough to stop the seal from leaking. Worth a try for a few thousand miles.
Just my $.02

Mike Trevelino
Williamsburg, VA
2008 RT
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post #5 of 17 Old Jan 21st, 2011, 3:38 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

The rear seal on my 00 has been seeping for 6-8 years. I drilled a hole in the case in case the rate of seepage increased around 6 years ago.

If that price includes all of the work you've had them do, including a new front tire, consider asking them what the cost is to replace the seal is along with any of the other seals they will encounter.

Also consider having them replace the slave cylinder and drill a drain hole should the slave leak.

Best from Tucson
Bob

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post #6 of 17 Old Jan 23rd, 2011, 10:57 am
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

From the Mobil 1 website:

Question:

Does Switch to Synthetics Cause 'Dry' Engines to Begin Leaking

There seems to be lots of disagreement across various web message boards about the effect of a late change to synthetic oil on engine seals -- all based on anecdotal experience. Is there any scientific basis to support or refute the claim that synthetics can cause "dry" engines to start leaking? Has anyone ever conducted a controlled study on this topic? I'm trying to figure out what to do to my '98 BMW 740i with 126,000 miles which I'd like to keep until I get it to at least 200,000 miles.
-- Kent Bauman, Tucson, AZ

Answer:

Synthetic oils meeting OEM (original equipment manufacturer) and Industry specifications do not cause leaks as they are tested to ensure that they are fully compatible with the elastomer materials from which automotive seals and gaskets are made. We are not aware of a controlled study on this topic.

Question:

Will Mobil 1 High Mileage Help or Contribute to Leaking Seals?I am considering using Mobil 1 High Mileage in my 1995 Dodge Ram (125,000 miles). It has been well maintained, but it does have a tiny rear main seal leak. It doesn't change the level on the dipstick; I just see a spot on the garage floor once in a while. Is it still Ok to use it? Or will it leak a lot worse? I heard that cleaning out deposits may actually help seal the leak?-- Joe Young, Minneapolis, MNAnswer:

With seal leaks it is a little bit of a roll of the dice. If the seal has just shrunk, the seal swell additives in Mobil1 High Mileage can actually help re-swell the seal and help to reduce or stop the leaking seal. If the seal is damaged or worn, then it will continue to leak and will get worse with time.


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Last edited by RonKMiller; Jan 23rd, 2011 at 11:02 am.
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post #7 of 17 Old Jan 23rd, 2011, 12:31 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

I'd like to offer my 'opinion' in addition to what Ron posted. I'll only use a mineral based synthetic oil - or a PAO synthetic, not a diester. Mineral oils have a cleaning capability. That cleaning, not the oil itself, may be what causes sudden leaking. Like Mobil, many synthetics have seal conditioners in them that help prevent leaking.
If you depend on sludge to keep your seals from leaking, then by all means stick with dino oil. No harm done.
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post #8 of 17 Old Jan 23rd, 2011, 1:04 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by fpmlt
I'd like to offer my 'opinion' in addition to what Ron posted. I'll only use a mineral based synthetic oil - or a PAO synthetic, not a diester. Mineral oils have a cleaning capability. That cleaning, not the oil itself, may be what causes sudden leaking. Like Mobil, many synthetics have seal conditioners in them that help prevent leaking.
If you depend on sludge to keep your seals from leaking, then by all means stick with dino oil. No harm done.
Sludge? Dino OIl ? Unless your a mechanic I think you have been watching too many oil sludge commercials. I have been a mechanic full time since 97 and the only time I have seen sludge in an oil pan is the result of someone not changing their oil regularly.
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post #9 of 17 Old Jan 23rd, 2011, 1:16 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

I yield to your superior knowledge and experience. I hadn't considered that the oil pan is the only place where sludge builds up, or that the oil pan gasket is the only place oil leaks. My apologies.
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post #10 of 17 Old Jan 23rd, 2011, 1:31 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

I have two holes drilled in my clutch housing to hopefully let any leaking oil out before it becomes a problem. I can't find the pic's to show the holes.

Dave Selvig
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post #11 of 17 Old Jan 23rd, 2011, 1:47 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by fpmlt
I yield to your superior knowledge and experience. I hadn't considered that the oil pan is the only place where sludge builds up, or that the oil pan gasket is the only place oil leaks. My apologies.
Dont take it so serious, were all in this for the thrill of the ride and to have fun. Are'nt we????
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post #12 of 17 Old Jan 23rd, 2011, 3:36 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by DigDug68
Sludge? Dino OIl ? Unless your a mechanic I think you have been watching too many oil sludge commercials. I have been a mechanic full time since 97 and the only time I have seen sludge in an oil pan is the result of someone not changing their oil regularly.
Well I rebuilt a '75 MGB in '86 and ran only Castrol GTX in it and did regular oil changes but after 10 years she had a ton of sludge in the timing chain area. I was really surprized based on the GTX claim of fighting sludge. But then again, every MGA/B & AH Sprite I ever worked on had a ton of sludge in it. Maybe the older engines were just more prone to it.

John
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post #13 of 17 Old Jan 23rd, 2011, 3:43 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by DigDug68
Sludge? Dino OIl ? Unless your a mechanic I think you have been watching too many oil sludge commercials. I have been a mechanic full time since 97 and the only time I have seen sludge in an oil pan is the result of someone not changing their oil regularly.
I have an '87 Chevy R30 (one ton dually with a 454) that I have owned since day 1. I developed a rear main seal leak that I repaired with a "Sneaky Pete". It was easier with the oil pan pulled. I had about 1/2 inch of hardened sludge in the bottom that took a putty knife to clean out. This was at 110K miles with never missed 3K oil and filter changes. It didn't seem to hurt anything at all since it still runs GREAT.

The commercials with the top of the engine coated in sludge are hysterical. What bull****.


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post #14 of 17 Old Jan 23rd, 2011, 3:51 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

Sludge can form regardless of oil changes in areas that have no oil flow.

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post #15 of 17 Old Jan 23rd, 2011, 4:35 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddleman
Sludge can form regardless of oil changes in areas that have no oil flow.
The quote appears valid considering that solids forming through the lubrication cycle picking up small heavier particulates and depositing into an area that sees less pressure and flow.. It happens, small metallic particles, byproducts of the whole combustion process.. All congregating in these areas, which tend to alter the flow like a creek with small limbs in them..
I hate sludge...

So when is the weather going to get warm and why.. OH WHY IS THERE a flipping cast on my leg.. Cast tends to limit mobility and desire to do jack schitt.

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post #16 of 17 Old Jan 24th, 2011, 6:45 am Thread Starter
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

Thanks everyone for all your input.
As a side note, I have only used BMW oil which I guess is semi-synth or something like that.

With oil changes made every 3K-4K.

I have decided (based on frank's input) to tell the dealer to button her up and will take it out of storage around Mid March to do the work myself.

My thought is once I am inside I'll change every thing I can get my hands on so I do not have to revisit this again.

I will probably be back for advice in a few weeks but in the mean time I got the shop manual and I will start making a list of parts I will need for the job.

Again thanks
Jim

Jim Connor
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post #17 of 17 Old Jan 24th, 2011, 12:26 pm
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Re: Rear Seal and others issues

" have decided (based on frank's input)"

Oh geez thanks Jim! No pressure there
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