Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Yarm, Teesside, England
Re: Which hole do I want?: Valve maintenance oops and advice needed
if you don't manage to get your tensioner holding pin in place, I can suggest another method of getting your camshaft driving sprockets back onto the front of the camshafts.
So presuming that you've figured out all the bucket swopping around you need to do, and you've then done it and then you've fitted the camshafts back in place and torqued up all the bearing keeps. Now you want to fit the driving sprocket to each camshaft but the tensioner is taking up all the slack in the chain; bugger as they say!
Now the upper part of the tensioner is just a guide; it doesn't do any tensioning; the one giving you the trouble is the bottom bit which is between the CRANKSHAFT sprocket and the EXHAUST camshaft sprocket. I am suggesting an alternative method of taking up the tensioning in this part of the chain which will give you the slack you are looking for.
THE METHOD!! With both camshafts in place, go ahead and fit the driving sprocket to the EXHAUST camshaft first; you need to do all the basic stuff getting that sprocket in the correct orientation, in which case it slips into a keyway on the end of the camshaft and you fit the bolt and tighten up so there's no slack, and a bit more, but don't try to torque it just yet.
Now we come to fitting the INLET camshaft sprocket and to do that we need to take the slack between the crankshaft and the exhaust camshaft.
The EXHAUST camshaft just right of halfway along it has flats on it which a metric spanner(wrench?) will fit tightly over; so get the right sized spanner(wrench?) and put it onto these flats on the exhaust camshaft and pull it UP, pretty good and hard and you should feel the camshaft rotating just a bit but what is happening is you are flattening the spring loaded tensioner and giving yourself enough chain slack to slip the INLET camshaft driving sprocket onto the end of the camshaft after doing all the correct alignment of the camshaft and the sprocket and relationship to the engine crankshaft (all this should have been done by tying the sprocket to the chain before the sprockets were taken off - but i think you will know all that anyway). So as soon as you can get the camshaft and sprocket aligned and the bolt in and tightened enough to make the set up secure, then you can ease off the tension you are putting on the exhaust camshaft with your spanner. All done, except the torquing up of the sprocket bolts - 56Nm in my Clymers, and even when doing this it is a good idea to hold each camshaft with a spanner over it's flats to avoid asking the chain to resist that 56Nm torque.(see more detail below, per Clymer).
I used this method on my K1100LT and the K1200 is the same construction layout; and the K12 Clymer page 93 step 6 details holding the camshaft while loosening; and page 95 step 8d details using a wrench over the flats for torquing up. But my method is to use that facility to take the tension out of the chain tensioner to get the inlet sprocket back on.
Hope this helps