Rear Brake Rotor and Pad Change Question - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 15 Old Feb 14th, 2006, 12:22 pm Thread Starter
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Rear Brake Rotor and Pad Change Question

Can anyone tell me if it's difficult to change the rear brake rotor and rear pads on a 2000 LT? Are there any special tools required? I have the rotor from a 2005 LT but would have to buy pads so I would also appreciate a good source to buy pads?

Second question is that I will be taking the bike in for a 24,000 service soon so should I just have them do it if it needs it?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Randy

2000 Canyon Red "Crimson Cruiser"
40,000 miles grinning, and counting....
BMWMOA # 131660
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post #2 of 15 Old Feb 14th, 2006, 4:07 pm
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There are only two bolts (set with locktite) that hold the rotor on after the wheel is removed. Need to heat them up with a heat gun to soften the locktite. The clearance gap for the ABS sensor needs to be reset for the new rotor/exciter ring combo. Pads are straight forward. Just curious as to how bad the existing rotor is that you would want to replace it after only 24,000 miles as these usually last well beyond that.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #3 of 15 Old Feb 14th, 2006, 4:23 pm Thread Starter
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I bought a 2005 rear drive that won't fit my bike (didn't check before buying) so I figure I am going to use the rotor and sell the rear drive.

My brakes seem to be working fine, but I can't see the pad on the rear so don't know what shape it's in. The fronts look like they have 3/8-1/4 thickness and the rotors look good. The rear rotor definaetly has more wear than the fronts, but doesn't necessarily need replacing yet.

Randy

2000 Canyon Red "Crimson Cruiser"
40,000 miles grinning, and counting....
BMWMOA # 131660
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post #4 of 15 Old Feb 14th, 2006, 4:24 pm
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Changing the rear pads is pretty simple. Pull two retaining clips, pull two long pins and the pads drop out (along with a large anti-squeal clip). Just remember to spread the old pads apart first to force the brake pistons back so the new thicker pads will fit. And also remember to pump the rear brake pedal a few times to take up any slack before riding off.

Replacing the rear rotor is not quite as easy. Pull two torx screws and remove the license plate mounting panel. Pull 5 lug bolts and remove the rear wheel and shim disk. Remove two allen bolts and remove the rotor. Note that these two allen bolts are countersunk and installed with loctite. They can be a bear to remove without stripping the allen heads. Heat usually helps to soften the loctite. The new rotor goes on in reverse order using new bolts. I believe the new bolts come with a loctite compound already on the, (bluish colored dot). Reinstall teh rear wheel, tightening the lug nuts in a cross pattern to 50 Nm, then tighten them again in a cross pattern to 105 Nm.

If what I just said makes perfect sense then go a ahead and try it. If anything above isn't crystal clear, then let your dealer do it. Brakes is not where you want to experiment with limited mechanical skills.

And another suggestion, get the factory BMW Service Manual. If you plan to do any work on your LT, it is invaluable.

For '00-'01 LTs the BMW part # is 01 79 0 009 033 (may be obsolete)
For '02-'04 LTs the BMW part # is 01 79 0 148 377 (covers Integral ABS)
For '05 LTs the BMW part # is 01 79 0 309 672 (covers hydraulic centerstand?)
For '06 LTs the BMW part # is 01 79 7 696 333 (covers Xenon HID?)

Wiring Diagram for '99-'01 bikes is 01 99 7 650 982
Wiring Diagram for '02-'04 bikes is 01 99 0 028 839

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #5 of 15 Old Feb 14th, 2006, 4:38 pm
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I would also suggest that it is unlikely that you need a new rotor at 24K miles, unless, of course it is verty worn or warped. Your answer may be just a new set of pads, EBC if you don't wnat the squeek and squeal. The number for BMW LT rear, all years is FA304HH. Available from many vendors.

Dave
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and Pawleys Island, SC
2002 K1200LTC
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post #6 of 15 Old Feb 15th, 2006, 6:21 am Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I am mainly curious because I have essentailly a new one in my garage. I have the manual on CD, and looked over the section, and was concerned about the adjustment for runout as noted below from the manual.

Do I need to have a dial guage? The one I have in the garage has a white mark on it, but may not be the same once I mount it on mine.

Mark the installed position of the brake disc on the
rear wheel drive, so that vertical runout of the sensor
ring is not altered.

If a new brake disc is installed, the sensor ring must
be re-marked.

Marking the ABS sensor ring
– Remove rear wheel.
– Remove the ABS sensor.
• Secure dial gauge holder, BMW No. 00 2 500,
with dial gauge, BMW No. 00 2 510, extension,
BMW No. 00 2 661, and measuring shoe,
BMW No. 34 2 510, to tapped bores for ABS
sensor fasteners.
• Zero the dial gauge.
• Measure radial runout round the entire circumference
of the ABS sensor ring.
e Caution:
If replacement parts are fitted, the sensor ring must
be re-marked; remove the old mark.
• With a paint pencil, make a permanent mark at
the point on the ABS sensor ring at the greatest
distance from the ABS sensor.
• Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure:
pay particular attention to the following.

2000 Canyon Red "Crimson Cruiser"
40,000 miles grinning, and counting....
BMWMOA # 131660
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post #7 of 15 Old Feb 15th, 2006, 7:46 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfran
Second question is that I will be taking the bike in for a 24,000 service soon so should I just have them do it if it needs it?

Randy
Man, unless you scored the old one by not changing the pads, I'd just leave it. Bikes not even broke in yet.

Keep the other one for a spare down the road.



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post #8 of 15 Old Feb 15th, 2006, 9:12 am
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Randy,

What that is ensuring is that when the exciter ring is the furthest away from the sensor, it will not exceed the maximum allowed gap. This makes sure it "always" sees the ring. I may or may not be slightly "out of round". The dial gauge will find the low spot rather quickly. If you have feeler gauges you could just check the clearance at several points around the circumference to ensure you don't go out of tolerance. Unless the old rotor is scored I would leave it alone until you NEED it.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #9 of 15 Old Feb 15th, 2006, 11:42 am Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Well it's going to be 51 so I just took off from work and am going to ride to closest dealer (about 90 miles each way) to have them give it a look over and give me an estimate on a 24K service etc. Over the phone they were to whishy washy for me saying "not seeing the bike, I cannot really give you an idea as they are all different" why would it be different on any bike. To service certain items should be consistant. They do it in the car industry and thats with rusted etc cars and everything. These bikes are pristine and never in the foul weather scenarios so aren't rusted up etc.

Oh well, nice day for some seat time

2000 Canyon Red "Crimson Cruiser"
40,000 miles grinning, and counting....
BMWMOA # 131660
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post #10 of 15 Old Feb 15th, 2006, 12:54 pm
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The ABS sensor gap isn't nearly as critical as they make it out to be. I measured mine, and found it to be way over tolerance. So I removed the sensor and found two shims in place. After removing one shim, it was way under tolerance. I contacted my dealer about getting the right size shim, but never made it down there to pick it up. It ran fine with two shims from the factory, and now runs fine with one. So I've basically stopped worrying about it.

If your rear brakes are working fine and the rotor's not damaged or worn, I wouldn't bother with swapping rotors.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #11 of 15 Old Feb 15th, 2006, 8:01 pm Thread Starter
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Well I had a wonderful 180 mile roundtrip ride to my "local" dealer just to finally visit their shop and have them look over the bike so I could get a better estimate on service cost. The bike has 24K on it.

He was talking about a 24K, annual, flush the brakes, and new tires. Said it should be around $1,000. How does that sound to everyone?

He said the brake pads looked like they had plenty of wear, and didn't seem concerned with the rotor having slight grooving. So it looks like I will just keep my rotor for future use at this point.

Their shop is a nice setup, although I didn't spend a lot of time as I wanted to get back before dark and of course by dinner.

I really appreciate everyones inputs.

2000 Canyon Red "Crimson Cruiser"
40,000 miles grinning, and counting....
BMWMOA # 131660
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post #12 of 15 Old Feb 15th, 2006, 9:18 pm
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If they can do all that labor, plus tires for $1K, that's not too bad. Then you should be good for the next 12K miles.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 63K miles
'03 Anthracite Metallic K12LTC, 66K miles
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#143, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032


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post #13 of 15 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 2:32 pm
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I just purchased a new rotor and pads from cycle brakes and I should have them in by next week. I am reading the service manual and the threads here about the two bolts holding the rotor in place. I do not have a heat gun. Do I need to run out and buy one or can I use a torch or will a hair dryer get hot enough (problably not on the HD)? Otherwise it looks pretty straight forward.

My existing rotor is pretty scored up and I just replaced the pads, again. Only got about 2K miles out of them so I think it is time to change out the rotor. The brakes still don't feel as good as I think they should (for rear brakes) so I figured it was time to just do it all. I did not get the sinthered pads because I thought I read that they don't match up to this rotor but now I'm seeing that some of you are using the HH"s. Well I'll see how the standards work out and change them out later if necessary.

< - - - Norm Ruest - - - >

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post #14 of 15 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 7:21 pm
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A hair dryer will work just fine but it would be better starting off with a hot final drive (like after a long ride as there is a LOT of metal to heat up). The idea is to soften the loctite on the bolts and take your time breaking them loose.

The stock pads are organic for the rear (by specification) and you should get at least 24K out of them.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #15 of 15 Old Jan 24th, 2008, 9:11 pm
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Thanks John

< - - - Norm Ruest - - - >

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“Its unexplained, because they haven’t explained it. Maybe they could explain it, but they've tried and they can't, because it's unexplainable.” - Ruest
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