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post #1 of 31 Old May 1st, 2010, 7:35 pm Thread Starter
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New Main Seal Failure

I'm in the throws of overhauling several items, one being the original main seal, contaminated clutch, slave etc. I filled him up with fluids last night and today noticed some oil had dripped from the new weep hole in the clutch housing. Depressed, I fired him up anyway while on the stand. There was some howling going on but it died down as he warmed up for about 2 minutes. Now he's really leaking. Just thought I would confirm the obvious. Guess I have to tear it down and start over, right?

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

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post #2 of 31 Old May 1st, 2010, 9:24 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

I think that after that, the hangover would be pretty bad. Then I would have to recover before starting over on a big job like that. That just sucks!

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post #3 of 31 Old May 1st, 2010, 10:57 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

My sympathies brother!

I did mine in March....a total of 27 hours of work...I took my time and we did 14 hrs of it as part of a tech session.

I also had a bad Clutch Slave Cylinder and replaced that while I was in Belle's guts.....it was leaking into the clutch housing as well. Took the time to do the weep holes in the clutch bell housing and slave cylinder too.....so far so good.

I decided to keep the nut that was closest to the main seal and wire it right next to my good-luck bell just to display I've been that deep into the bike....kind of a trophy for me! Hopefully you don't have to hang two of 'em!

Take a well deserved brake, wait for the parts to come in, and take your time. I used the Clymer's manual and replaced everything it said was a "one time use" item.

Good luck!


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post #4 of 31 Old May 2nd, 2010, 9:14 am
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hairpin
I'm in the throws of overhauling several items, one being the original main seal, contaminated clutch, slave etc. I filled him up with fluids last night and today noticed some oil had dripped from the new weep hole in the clutch housing. Depressed, I fired him up anyway while on the stand. There was some howling going on but it died down as he warmed up for about 2 minutes. Now he's really leaking. Just thought I would confirm the obvious. Guess I have to tear it down and start over, right?
Not trying to add insult to injury but you did intall the new O-ring on the main shaft? That missing will really let oil flow out.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #5 of 31 Old May 2nd, 2010, 12:04 pm Thread Starter
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Question Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
Not trying to add insult to injury but you did intall the new O-ring on the main shaft? That missing will really let oil flow out.
Luther's been on the stand for 2 months waiting for various parts, shocks rebuilt, etc., and the clutch/main seal was one of the first things I did. But if fuzzy memory serves me right, there was some issue with the new o-ring, like somehow it wasn't set where it should have been, maybe too deep?

Anyway, it sounds like you are knowledgable, possibly experienced a similar mishap? Can you explain how the main seal and o-ring work? Specifically, if the o-ring stops oil from entering the clutch housing, what does the main seal do? Sorry to ask what to many is obvious, but it's nice to know how things work. Manuals tell us what to do, but rarely why. Thanks in advance.

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

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post #6 of 31 Old May 2nd, 2010, 7:11 pm Thread Starter
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Unhappy Re: New Main Seal Failure

Adding insult to injury, can't get the right siding bearing journal loose on the swing arm. I've used a hand impact driver (actually split a Craftsmen socket in the process), an admittedly wimpy air gun, all to no avail. Can't use heat in this area. Thoughts? I'm concerned about damaging the bearing or worse, the swing arm itself.

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

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post #7 of 31 Old May 2nd, 2010, 10:25 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hairpin
Luther's been on the stand for 2 months waiting for various parts, shocks rebuilt, etc., and the clutch/main seal was one of the first things I did. But if fuzzy memory serves me right, there was some issue with the new o-ring, like somehow it wasn't set where it should have been, maybe too deep?

Anyway, it sounds like you are knowledgable, possibly experienced a similar mishap? Can you explain how the main seal and o-ring work? Specifically, if the o-ring stops oil from entering the clutch housing, what does the main seal do? Sorry to ask what to many is obvious, but it's nice to know how things work. Manuals tell us what to do, but rarely why. Thanks in advance.
I have been in there so to speak. The main seal covers resides in the rear of the engine and seals the oil path on the outer part of the clutch housing shaft and the O-ring goes on the shaft inside the clutch housing. It functions to keep any oil that makes its way into the splines from getting to the clutch. The o-ring goes on followed by the washer that was flat on one side and had a raised bead on the other side. The raised bead goes toward the o-ring and the nut faces the flat side. Fairly high torque 140 Nm initial then loosen and set 50 Nm followed by 60 degrees of rotation.

On the swing arm issue I take it the 14mm pin is what is giving you grief. If so and you have the other one out aready, grab the drive shaft with a large vice grip and pull it out. You can then remove the swing arm with that one pin still installed. Once out in the open you have more options to remove it. (Been there and done that as well).

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #8 of 31 Old May 3rd, 2010, 12:29 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
I have been in there so to speak. The main seal covers resides in the rear of the engine and seals the oil path on the outer part of the clutch housing shaft and the O-ring goes on the shaft inside the clutch housing. It functions to keep any oil that makes its way into the splines from getting to the clutch. The o-ring goes on followed by the washer that was flat on one side and had a raised bead on the other side. The raised bead goes toward the o-ring and the nut faces the flat side. Fairly high torque 140 Nm initial then loosen and set 50 Nm followed by 60 degrees of rotation.

On the swing arm issue I take it the 14mm pin is what is giving you grief. If so and you have the other one out aready, grab the drive shaft with a large vice grip and pull it out. You can then remove the swing arm with that one pin still installed. Once out in the open you have more options to remove it. (Been there and done that as well).
John, You are a prince. Thank you for the MS-oring explanation. I'll give the swing arm extraction a go after work today. Stay tuned.

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

"The more I learn, the less I know"
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post #9 of 31 Old May 3rd, 2010, 11:17 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
I have been in there so to speak. The main seal covers resides in the rear of the engine and seals the oil path on the outer part of the clutch housing shaft and the O-ring goes on the shaft inside the clutch housing. It functions to keep any oil that makes its way into the splines from getting to the clutch. The o-ring goes on followed by the washer that was flat on one side and had a raised bead on the other side. The raised bead goes toward the o-ring and the nut faces the flat side. Fairly high torque 140 Nm initial then loosen and set 50 Nm followed by 60 degrees of rotation.

On the swing arm issue I take it the 14mm pin is what is giving you grief. If so and you have the other one out aready, grab the drive shaft with a large vice grip and pull it out. You can then remove the swing arm with that one pin still installed. Once out in the open you have more options to remove it. (Been there and done that as well).
Well J, I removed the left side journal and drive shaft and have attempted to get the right side 14mm head to go through the bearing. Because the cross-member needs to be cocked a bit to clear the left side frame, the 14mm hex head binds at the right side bearing. With each blow, the one side of the bearing hits the inside shoulder at the frame and causes the hex head to bind tighter and tighter. I can get it loosened up again by using a socket to re-square the bearing. So I ask you, is the idea to blast the smithereens out of it to push it through, or am I missing something, a technique that is perhaps less destructive?

Your response will be greatly appreciated, as I've just about used up my favors at the dealer shop. Thanks!

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

"The more I learn, the less I know"

Last edited by Hairpin; May 4th, 2010 at 1:56 am.
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post #10 of 31 Old May 4th, 2010, 12:48 am
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Go down to a hardware store and buy a set of easy-outs...you know, the ones with TEETH. The A&S techs say that they end up replacing lots of those darn things. Most BMW shops stock them. A regular or even impact socket will simply round off the journal end.

Good Luck!
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post #11 of 31 Old May 4th, 2010, 1:35 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hairpin
Well J, I removed the left side journal and drive shaft and have attempted to get the right side 14mm head to go through the bearing. Because the cross-member needs to be cocked a bit to clear the left side frame, the 14mm hex head binds at the right side bearing. With each blow, the one side of the bearing hits the inside shoulder at the frame and causes the hex head to bind tighter and tighter. I can get it loosened up again by using a socket to re-square the bearing. So I ask you, is the idea to blast the smithereens out of it to push it through, or am I missing something, a technique that is perhaps less destructive?

Your response will be greatly appreciated, as I've just about used up my favors at the dealer shop. Thanks!
I thought you had both of the 30mm bearings out and were struggling with the pivot pins. Sorry my advice only works if those are out. You should be able to find a heavy duty 30mm socket ,at any auto parts store now for front end work (I got one at O'Rielly), and use a good breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe to get those broken free

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #12 of 31 Old May 4th, 2010, 2:06 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
I thought you had both of the 30mm bearings out and were struggling with the pivot pins. Sorry my advice only works if those are out. You should be able to find a heavy duty 30mm socket ,at any auto parts store now for front end work (I got one at O'Rielly), and use a good breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe to get those broken free
Hey John, I got both the 30mm "caps" off. The right side bearing did not come off with it. It is stuck on the shaft of the 14mm hex head and post. I'm sure you know what I mean, but I'll put up a picture when I get home.
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Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

"The more I learn, the less I know"

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post #13 of 31 Old May 4th, 2010, 10:28 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Dang Bill that's a new one. I would use a drift and tap the bearing fully back on to the pivot pin. It should clear the "nut" on the end. Then use some sand paper or crocus cloth to de-burr the pivot as it looks like the last time you pulled them the 14mm points got a little buggered and they are preventing the bearing from sliding off. That should allow the bearing to then slip off.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #14 of 31 Old May 5th, 2010, 12:20 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
Dang Bill that's a new one. I would use a drift and tap the bearing fully back on to the pivot pin. It should clear the "nut" on the end. Then use some sand paper or crocus cloth to de-burr the pivot as it looks like the last time you pulled them the 14mm points got a little buggered and they are preventing the bearing from sliding off. That should allow the bearing to then slip off.
John, That's just what I woke thinkin' this morning. I'll give it a go later today. Wish me luck.

Bill MacDonald
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'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
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post #15 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 11:44 am Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

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Originally Posted by Hairpin
John, That's just what I woke thinkin' this morning. I'll give it a go later today. Wish me luck.
John, It seems I mushroomed the shaft below the hex head of that thing by using my hand impact driver. Too many whacks made it impossible to take enough meat off to remove the bearing, so I adapted my improvised MS bearing removal slide hammer and got it off. I sacrificed the bearing, but at least now have the swing arm out of the way and continued disassembly . Sure enough, the MS was torn up at the shaft. I will be super cautious getting the replacement seated properly. O-ring looked fine, but will be replaced as well. Thanks for your counsel on this. Hope to put this all back together today...if the dealer has all the parts. Heading there this AM. Stay tuned.

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

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post #16 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 12:46 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hairpin
Sure enough, the MS was torn up at the shaft. I will be super cautious getting the replacement seated properly.
What do you think went wrong on assembly and what are you going to do different? How did you install it the first time?

I'm still putting mine back together. My swing arm is being a pain going on, but nothing like what you're going through. (Glad you were able to get past that BTW.) Looking for things to look out for.

Thanks,

Dan
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post #17 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 4:26 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by dglenn1
What do you think went wrong on assembly and what are you going to do different? How did you install it the first time?

I'm still putting mine back together. My swing arm is being a pain going on, but nothing like what you're going through. (Glad you were able to get past that BTW.) Looking for things to look out for.

Thanks,
I messed up badly seating the main seal properly. I thought I was being careful, but obviously not careful enough. When I got it part way in, it appeared cocked a bit, so another whack straightened it, but also set it too deep I believe. This time I will use the prescribed method, a 1" galvanized pipe, about 8" long and a flor flange. Hoping that it goes in straight and not too deep this time. Will have to wait til parts are at the dealer tomorrow. More to follow.

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

"The more I learn, the less I know"
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post #18 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 5:29 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Call me crazy, but...

When looking the main seal, the clutch housing, and the output shaft, I'm thinkin' what would be wrong with sliding the main seal onto the clutch housing shaft, sliding the housing onto the output shaft and hitting housing a few times buffered by a wood block to partially seat the main seal. It seems that it would insure that the seal goes into the hole perfectly square. I could then slide the housing off the output shaft, and finish seating the seal with herein described homer tool of pipe and flange. This approach seems too simple. Must be something wrong. Tell me your thoughts. Thanks!

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

"The more I learn, the less I know"

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post #19 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 6:38 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hairpin
I messed up badly seating the main seal properly. I thought I was being careful, but obviously not careful enough. When I got it part way in, it appeared cocked a bit, so another whack straightened it, but also set it too deep I believe. This time I will use the prescribed method, a 1" galvanized pipe, about 8" long and a flor flange. Hoping that it goes in straight and not too deep this time. Will have to wait til parts are at the dealer tomorrow. More to follow.
I used the same method and I know its not "perfectly" flat but it's really close and certainly flush. I ruined the first one by getting it too cocked. It's amazing how easy it is to put it in too deep and so crooked with a flat flange. Did you lube the surface when you installed the housing/shaft? What did the failure look like? Was the seal stuck to the shaft? It should be somewhat tolerant to a minor bit of skew.

Thanks,

Dan
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post #20 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 6:42 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hairpin
Call me crazy, but...

When looking the main seal, the clutch housing, and the output shaft, I'm thinkin' what would be wrong with sliding the main seal onto the clutch housing shaft, sliding the housing onto the output shaft and hitting housing a few times buffered by a wood block to partially seat the main seal. It seems that it would insure that the seal goes into the hole perfectly square. I could then slide the housing off the output shaft, and finish seating the seal with herein described homer tool of pipe and flange. This approach seems too simple. Must be something wrong. Tell me your thoughts. Thanks!
The housing would have to contact the seal at the outermost diameter or it would cause it to dish when you pounded it in. Its been too long since I've seen mine so I can't say for sure how it would work. I don't remember the housing being able to slide on deep enough to seat the seal either.

Dan
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post #21 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 7:07 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by dglenn1
I used the same method and I know its not "perfectly" flat but it's really close and certainly flush. I ruined the first one by getting it too cocked. It's amazing how easy it is to put it in too deep and so crooked with a flat flange. Did you lube the surface when you installed the housing/shaft? What did the failure look like? Was the seal stuck to the shaft? It should be somewhat tolerant to a minor bit of skew.

Thanks,
ALRIGHT! Someone man enough to admit the same mistake I made ;-> That alone makes me feel much better. Thanks!

Mine was still in the hole, the seal lip shredded pretty good from about 11 to 4 o'clock. Kinda made me wonder if it was damaged as the housing was installed. Hmmm...

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

"The more I learn, the less I know"
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post #22 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 7:12 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by dglenn1
The housing would have to contact the seal at the outermost diameter or it would cause it to dish when you pounded it in. Its been too long since I've seen mine so I can't say for sure how it would work. I don't remember the housing being able to slide on deep enough to seat the seal either.
I just checked and the backing flange on the housing exceeds the outside diameter of the seal by about 1/4", so it cannot dish as you mentioned. With seal slid all the way onto the housing, there is about 3/16" of the housing shaft flange exposed, which would seem to indicate that this method would get the seal about halfway in, an admitted supposition. One benefit is that the seal lip has been preshaped accurately.

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

"The more I learn, the less I know"
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post #23 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 8:35 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Honestly, you should just make the tool using the galvanized piece of pipe and a flange larger than the O.D. of the main seal...then it is impossible to drive the seal in too far and easy to seat it perfectly flush. You have been through too much on this bike to be seating that seal w/o a driver. And, with doubts about the installation, you better change that O-ring again and be VERY careful to install it properly. Just my 2cents......

And, after reading through the thread, I gotta ask, "You are using a service manual aren't you?"

Jack Homesley
Cornelius, NC USA
'06 Goldwing - "The Black Pearl"
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post #24 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 9:33 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

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Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Honestly, you should just make the tool using the galvanized piece of pipe and a flange larger than the O.D. of the main seal...then it is impossible to drive the seal in too far and easy to seat it perfectly flush. You have been through too much on this bike to be seating that seal w/o a driver. And, with doubts about the installation, you better change that O-ring again and be VERY careful to install it properly. Just my 2cents......

And, after reading through the thread, I gotta ask, "You are using a service manual aren't you?"
Sorry, not my experience. It is VERY possible to drive the seal past flush. Sounds like Hairpin and myself made the same tool. Like I commented previously, I was surprised to find I could easily drive the seal well past flush even though its a solid metal flange larger than the O.D. of the seal. Surprising, but it made me much more careful on the second attempt.

Dan
2005 K1200LT - Ocean Blue

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post #25 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 9:58 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by cccpastorjack
Honestly, you should just make the tool using the galvanized piece of pipe and a flange larger than the O.D. of the main seal...then it is impossible to drive the seal in too far and easy to seat it perfectly flush. You have been through too much on this bike to be seating that seal w/o a driver. And, with doubts about the installation, you better change that O-ring again and be VERY careful to install it properly. Just my 2cents......

And, after reading through the thread, I gotta ask, "You are using a service manual aren't you?"
Pastor Jack, I am honored that you have chosen to weigh in. It's been a comedy of errors, all of my own doing. Yes, I had "a" manual when I did the seal the first time. Then I bought a Clymer's when I got into some other areas. Wish I'd had the Clymer's to start. Oh well...

Anyway, given the absurdly awkward position one puts themself in under the bike frame belly/his on the edge of the lift, etc., compounded by my bad eyes and progressive lenses, it's a little weird gauging up from down and flush from not-so-flush as I hold the seal up to where it needs to go and not able to see it behind the pipe/floor flange. That's why I tossed out the idea of simply STARTING the seating process with the housing, go as far as I can, slide the housing off, then finish with the pipe/flange tool. Just wondered if anyone had tried it, or if anyone, such as yourself, foresees a problem with such an approach. I look forward to your reply.

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

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post #26 of 31 Old May 6th, 2010, 11:24 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

I used a PVC fitting to drive the main seal in and the first attempt I got it cocked. I thought the fitting was large enough but the top was not seated and in an effort to get the top of the seal in I drove the bottm of it too far in. Back to the dealer for two more seals (just in case). I used a larger fitting the next time and got it in straight but not 100% flush, but 5K later and no leaks. I don't recommend using the housing to do this.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
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post #27 of 31 Old May 9th, 2010, 5:32 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

I followed Pastor Jack's advice and stuck with the 1" pipe and floor flange. Worked like a charm. It got little tilted at one point, but it was very slight. A few raps with the hammer made the main seal very flush. Used new o-ring, thrust washer, nut etc. Everything went together pretty smooth. Interesting how much easier it is the second time around. Fired it up today on the lift and there were NO LEAKS!!

Next I'll find out if all the new clutch, slave , brake lines and pads, and additional components work ok. Should be done in a couple of days. Thanks for all the help getting me this far. Y'all are great!

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

"The more I learn, the less I know"
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post #28 of 31 Old May 9th, 2010, 10:22 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Woo Hoo, Good job Bill. Now get her back together and go ride, then ride some more.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #29 of 31 Old May 25th, 2010, 8:50 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

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Originally Posted by jzeiler
Woo Hoo, Good job Bill. Now get her back together and go ride, then ride some more.
Well, it's been a week or so since I got Luther put back together, so I thought I should follow up with my observations:

1. I about freaked when I noticed a couple of drops of oil come out of the bell housing weep hole. This happened after the first few short rides. Weather has not been very bike friendly in the Pacific NW this Spring, so rides have been somewhat sparse. But I can report that as of the last 2 rides, NO DRIPS! So I believe it safe to say that the drips I did observe after the first few rides were residual oil that I was unable to reach and clean out of the housing before installing the 2nd main seal, having botched the first install as you may recall in this thread.

2. The rebuilt items all worked great: new linkage: Sweet! new brakes: pretty good, but would have expected them to be a little more sensitive with the new friendly lines, and pads. [BTW, I did the unapproved and cracked my front calipers for the rebuild. As noted herein, there is no new seal included with the rebuild kits for the 2 halves when you put them back together. I re-used the originals and they seem to be holding up well. I guess time will tell if I made a deal with the devil on that one. Rebuilt Ohlins: probably the greatest improvement. Feels like a new bike. New steering damper (original was bent, not sure when/how it happened) this Hyper-Pro unit sure looks impressive. I just hope it does it's job.

3. ABSII Reset: On roll-out, I had an ABS fault. This was the only thing that had me still worried. However, once I started researching this site, I found some incredibly helpful info on how to determine the cause of the fault, and reset the system. IT seems that since I had painted my calipers, it threw off the rear speed sensor clearance by 0.45mm to 0.9. I removed 1 mounting shim, and that provided the required clearance. Did the reset voodoo dance prescribed herein, and voila, all is working fine. Credit goes to Chris and Wrenchall for their invaluable contributions. Use "ABS reset" to find their thread. Note that this does not apply to "integrated" systems, just the older 99-00 ABSII systems.

Thanks again to all of you that lent a hand to an otherwise lost sheep.

Bill MacDonald
Redmond, WA

'99 LT "Luther"

'03 Aprilia Tuono "Thunder"
'09 K1300S "Rufus II"

"The more I learn, the less I know"
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post #30 of 31 Old May 25th, 2010, 10:14 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Man! That is a story full of fear, dread and ultimately triumph! Thanks for sharing. BTW I absolutely HATE seating seals! Seems like I never get them straight. The main seal is in way to deep to have to redo. I commend you for doing these repairs yourself.

Loren

WAK1200LT
Loren

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post #31 of 31 Old May 26th, 2010, 8:08 pm
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Re: New Main Seal Failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hairpin
.

Use "ABS reset" to find their thread. Note that this does not apply to "integrated" systems, just the older 99-00 ABSII systems.
Glad to hear the second time around did the trick. The Integral ABS is self clearing anyway once you fix the fault. Now go have a ball riding - you have earned it.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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