Hi Guys,
I have my 1999 LT for about 4 months now and decided I had to get to know how it ticked.
So I started to remove some of the tubberware, but could not stop. the photos attached show the position at the moment.
Is there any mods etc, I should do while I am at this stage.
I am going to do the throttle cable mod, the bike has just got its 12000 mile service, so the fluids should be ok. Is there any need to replace the fuel filter ?
Any advice will be very welcome.

P.S. I might be back to you all to find out how to but it all back togeather.

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Dude!

Mine looks like that right now too. My nose cone is still on, for now, but air filter box and throttle bodies are off.

Had an oil leak, was the breather tube. You might want to take a look at the top of your engine, if any oil puddled there, look to the breather tube.

I got a shed for shelter, looks like you got a kitchen.

My nose cone comes off soon, got at least 1 dash light bulb out.

Hi Gunny,
I am about to remove the Air Box - having a bit of trouble - Clymer says to loosen the screws to the hose clamps, but two of them have what appears to be non-reusable clamps is that right ? - getting them out is possible, but puting them back on without removing the fuel rail that another matter. Could you or someone guide me through the Air Box removel ?

Hello.

On the fuel filter, it is part of the 12K if it was a through and by the book 12K service? If you have any doubt do it with new fuel clamps inside the tank and out. 2 sizes needed.

You should look at the air filter. Again a 12K item though.

Coolant maybe? Do you know last time done?

If it was me I would do all the brake lines new as they have a history of failure on older models. Or at least I see a fair amount of mention to it here , so I will do mine at the 4-5 year mark as general maintenance.

And of course this gets you a complete brake fluid flush. Do the clutch fluid at the same time and you should be golden.

I guess check all your rubber around your throttle bodys. Recent thread on that manifold (PCV) to throttle body connection and I have seen one ugly first hand. Your working around that area anyway.

Maybe inspect your exhaust headers well. Check for all nuts on the studs and any movement any where as there have been flanges broken on them.

A good cleaning inside out.

Wiring inspection dielectric grease on all connections you can see/find.

Should I go on or is that enough busy work

Thanks LAF thats the kind of advice I am looking for - the only way to understand something is to take it apart.

When I got that far, I did all the stuff LAF suggested, plus Wilber suspension, but most fun was changing the dash lights. Did blue first, but too hard to see. Switched to red, and I really like 'em. Just a thought.

Some things to do/change/replace:

1. Replace the fuel line quick disconnects with metal QDs.
2. Install an after-market air horn (one brand is "Stebel").
3. Install an intercom/bike-to-bike communication system. Of course, this install doesn't require the level of disassembly you are at it, but you are in there...
4. Replace the headlight with a HID unit. Low beam or high beam - or both - your choice.

You will see that 2 of the air horns going up to the air filter housing have screw type clamps and the front 2 are not. Loosen the back 2, #3 is going to be a pain to get to and use a small tip screw driver to just pop off the front 2. Replace them with screw type clamps when it goes back together, unless you have a pliers to clamp them back. The rear 2 air horns come out of the air cleaner box easily.

Biggest thing is to be sure you get them all on with no air leaks and that the clamps do not interfere withe the throttle linkage travel. In other words, be sure to still have full throttle and the clamps aren't jamming any of the linkages.

Biggest pain for me was to get the breather tube back on the fitting on the engine.

No need on the 99 as there were no quick disconnects.
+1 on the Stebel. I have one connected in addition to my already loud stock horn. Love it!
Maybe the biggest improvement you can make on the bike for little money

Also since you are already there disconnect the temperature sensor at the front of the air box. This will eliminate the engine hesitations in hot weather. Later model required cutting the "brown wire" but early bikes don't have it.

Originally Posted by hschisler
Some things to do/change/replace:

1. Replace the fuel line quick disconnects with metal QDs...
Thanks for the correction, Gilles! My BMW experience has been limited (so far!) to the K1200LT, so I tend to think in that "box" at all times.

Just an FYI, the early K1200LT's ('99-'00, and maybe early '01's) had no quick disconnects (QD's) at all. The later models had the plastic QD's which are prone to failure. I recommend going to the metal QD's on all LT's whenever you have a chance, since you will be removing the tank again in the future for service anyway.

John

You've done the easy part. It's putting the beast back together that gives me fits. Spent 2 hours trying to get the right upper tupperware back on last time. Let us know how many extra fasteners you have when your done. Of course there are guys on this forum that make it look easy and never have extra parts.

Once again guy’s thanks for all the input and keep it coming.
I have got the air box off and discovered number 2 boot (looking from left to right) was not seated fully to the throttle body. The rubber of the boot was deformed slightly. I did not find any problem with performance, but if you look at the attached pictures,(325,324 & 323) you will see some white power on the throttle body where air was leaking in.
I will order the new throttle cables from the local BMW dealer as soon as they open after the holidays. The Hid unit is next on my list as is the QD`s. As for the temperature sensor – well, I think I will leave it alone as we don’t get high temperatures in Ireland, not compared to you guys in America.
I am taking a lot of pictures as I go and will take more when I do the rebuild – I will put them all on my Photobucket site when I am finished and post the link – They may be of help to someone.
So thanks again and if anyone else remembers anything I should do at this stage please post.
Derek.

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Du-ude,

that happens to a lot of us

you're almost there .............don't stop now

(just kidding)

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That life saving ring adds a nice touch!! :-)

May I ask the reason for the nearly complete teardown? Engine replacement?

Matt

Hans, when it comes to detailing every nook & cranny, I can see you don't fool around!

Man, that looks spooky! I have an '09 LT and gettin' ready for 12k service. Clymer manual says do a valve check w/fluids change. Anyone here think that necessary at 12k?

That last photo had rolling on the floor. Talk about carried away.

Hans you are putting me to shame - I have only taken the ribbon of the box - you have ripped the wrapping and jumped right into the box. You will have every BMW mechanic ringing you up for advice (I am assuming you got it all back together).
With people like you on this forum there is nothing we can do - Columbus only sailed around the world to see if it was round - you would have peeled back the mantel and gone straight to the core and arrived out the other side.
Hands up to you mate - I hope you keep an eye on my posts when I put everything back together.
Sláinte
Derek

Hans, We know you are the master but this is one you never put back together! Right?

Loren

The actual checking of the valves is pretty simple and I recommend it at the first 12K just to establish the baseline. Mine did not need any adjustments until the 48K. But I knew what I had based on that original 12K check. If everything is in the middle or at the loose end you could skip the next two checks.

As John said it should be done as a base line and it is rare for them to need adjusting at 12K.

I called out for a Tech Session and through a great group of people and I got to check mine at 14,000. I am now approaching 25,000 and need to weather 3 more months of winter riding and will do it again.

The reason being I had some exhaust valves that were toward the tight side. Still in spec. but on the tight side.

This forum schooled me that with the LT Motor the valves wear tight. So you don't get valve rattle, but rather burnt seats and valves and after that the sky is the limit. Worst case of neglect of course.

So now I have a reference. I would have been freaked at 24K to see them on the tight side with no reference to go by. By all accounts these bikes hold valve clearance very well. My Dealer (when I could still call him that) flat out told me they never adjusted a 12K LT, 24K very rare and most in the 36K and beyond.

So I will be able to proof that out on this check. If they all check to the 14K, then indeed mine was just put together on the tight side.

However if they have tightened still tighter I will need to do some " bucket figuring" and go through the process of changing them out toward the loose side again.

I will be a bit anxious if they are tight but with help from here I will get through it.

Long and short of it if you have it apart that far, it is not a big deal to do. The gasket can be reused with the appropriate amount of RTV sealant in the correct areas that are apparent, and a helper to turn the rear wheel to turn the valves into position to measure.

You seem fine on turning a wrench so you should have no issues with a search on the topic and getting the sheet someone made up to mark your valves as you go. Uhh there are a few of them in there and this person deserves big props for creating it to keep track of them. You tend to jump around a lot to measure the next available valve in position, unless your help likes turning the wheel

+1 on the HID. I did just the low beam.

i also installed the K&N Air filter. just because i could.

if you don't have the PIAA lights on front forks/calipers, i recommend them also.

of course, since i had ALL the plastic off i had her painted too. it is nowhere near the stock 1999 champagne color she used to be.

Whatdoyamean by "nearly"?

It was a joke y'all, the clue was in my sig line.

That's what I did with my totaled 2002 LT, she became "an organ donor"
and lives on in LT's as far away as Australia, Finland and the UK,
the engine lived on to be totaled again in California.

It was a fun and educational experience,
except for the crash and hospital experience that preceeded it,
if you've ever got time to waste you can read about it here.

(Temp Hi-Jack)
So what color is the beautiful Bike now Sherlock? Pics?

John
(End Hijack)

Check to see if your preload knob for the rear shock is full of oil. There is a plunger inside you need to push down to get more oil in it

alaskafish, i have two nice pics in the "gallery" section of both sides. pics were taken just a few seconds apart.

[QUOTE=sherlock888
i also installed the K&N Air filter. just because i could.

[/QUOTE]

Why did you want to put your engine longevity at risk? :-)

Well, if the last picture had been an ingot of aluminum... :-)

Wow! Sure ain't Champagne anymore Thomas! It looks almost iridescent in blue shifting to almost a violet. Heavy on the metallic though. I am thinking seriously about maybe doing the same thing someday, just not sure what color I would go with, that's why I was interested.

Tks,

John

JZeiler and LAF, thanks. Good sound advice, tip 'o the hat guys. Sherlock what a beautiful color ya have there. I'm kinda color blind, but that is very appealing

No worries. I hope we have not overwhelmed you. While these bikes are proclaimed to be heavey maintenace, if done in time frames not that big of a deal. A bit of a learning curve but all the information and help can be found here or in a Clymers shop book which you should try and source.

You are in a different situation on buying a bike that you may not be sure of what has been done. So all of these things are sorta on your plate to do. Take your time and read and ask.

I have learned so much here and from this group of guys that are top notch on the LT. I am but a rookie myself but have gotten through a bunch of stuff with John and others help.

Let us know how it goes and if you get stuck someone will help you out.

O.K. Guy’s - Update (1999 LT - getting to know what’s under her skin)
I have ordered the upgrade throttle kit from BMW €150 - Should have it by Wednesday.
Ordered the HID kit from XenonDepot.com for the low beam upgrade.
Removed the front speaker grills and repainted.
Went over all electrical connections and applied Silicon spray lubricant.
I will also spray the cover seal where it contacts the upper fork bridge cover with the silicon spray to prevent the squeaking noise when turning the steering.
Cleaned down frame and touched up any sign of rust - not very much.
Having a problem finding metal quick disconnects locally, may have to order them on the net.
Lubricated foot pegs, ball joints, brake lever etc.
Cleaned all black plastic using "Auto Glym" brought it up like new.
I feel there is no need to upgrade the horns, I have the stock twin horns and they are loud enough for me.
I am looking into additional lighting - under mirror - fork mounted - can’t make up my mind at the moment.
Sorry for ranting on - this is just me talking out loud to myself.
I will say one thing, if there is anyone out there hesitating on doing any work to the old girl themselves - don’t - this is one well put together machine - with the help of the Clymer book and a bit of patience it is a joy to work on.
That said, I have yet to put her back together - Ahh no problems - I have always got you guy’s to help.
Sláinte
Derek

I would recommend doing the brake line upgrade to SS from Speigel.
My front brake line burst - luckily in my garage.

I also bought a bunch of rubber grommets and fasteners from bikebolts.com.
Nice to have some on hand. The rubber on the old ones does get old and
brittle on the older bikes.

When I did the fuel filter, I also replaced all the fuel lines inside the fuel tank.

Don't forget to get yourself a set of Grip puppies once it is all together
as a reward for all you hard work. They are nice and soft.

Good Luck
I found that a beer every hour or two (used for brain relaxation
and lubrication) helped to make the re-assembly much easier.

That why it`s taking me so long - I thought you had to have a beer every 5 minutes
I am Irish you know.
Thanks for the tip about the Grip puppies - will do.
Sláinte
Derek

I hate when there are extra sctews and parts left!

Hi Guy`s,
I have just completed the Throttle upgrade and I want to thank everyone who has posted information about it as it would have being much harder without such details.
As a matter of interest, I only had to removed the air box to get at the dreaded clip.
Now, I would like to pick the brains of the very learned once again. Does anybody know what the connector in the attached pictures is for. I don`t recall disconnecting it - The wires are brown and red/yellow.
Sláinte
Derek

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That looks like the power outlet connector on the lower left engine cover.

Thats exactly what it is Saddleman - Thanks a lot - Putting everything back is not as easy as taking it apart - That said I am having fun.
Next job is the HID upgrade for the low beam.
Sláinte
Derek

I'm NOT mechanically inclined, but in 1994 I painted my ' 82 Sportster. I set up tables using sawhorses and plywood sheets. I'd take off a part and place it on the table. Then the next part, then the next,etc. After I painted the gas and oil tanks and new (shorter) fenders I put the parts back on by picking them off the table in reverse order. I also found out why there is a huge difference in cost between painting it yourself and having it done. It took me three tries before I finally had it done and I still made mistakes but it still turned out well.

I would suggest taking the shift linkage off for a good cleaning and lubing. There have been a number of us stranded by it breaking which could have been prevented by simply keeping it clean and greased. Plus that gives you a little more experience in taking more parts off and if you have to do it along side the road sometime you will know exactly what needs to be done.

Dave

Thanks Dave for the reminder - I did the shift linkage.
I am waiting for the Quick Disconnects from Beemerboneyard before I can start her up to check the throttle upgrade. I have taken off the side stand and resprayed it, cleaned the main stand and sprayed it, still attached to the bike, as I do not have the gear to support her without the main stand. There was a bit of Oxidation on the Radiator frames -
must have being salt on the roads that caused that - so I cleaned and resprayed them.
Installing the HID upgrade from XenonDepot at the moment. The next thing to order is a new screen - I think Cee baileys is the way to go according to the general thinking on the forum - I have the OEM Euro screen 17" - I think I will go for the #2 -4" that will give me an extra 3" over the standard Euro screen.
Sláinte
Derek