Final Drive assembly advice - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 4 Old Aug 17th, 2009, 1:04 am Thread Starter
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Location: Eastern Washington, , USA
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Final Drive assembly advice

I pulled the final drive myself on my 99 LTI and had it rebuilt by a dealership in Seattle (crown bearing disintegrated and took out the faceplate as well), so with a 2 year parts and labor warranty I brought the unit home. While my 99 was down for parts I went and bought a 2000 LTC that came available, so when I got home I had this wild idea to pull the FD from the 2000 (58k miles) and stick it in the 99, then put the rebuilt FD into my 2000 which I plan on keeping. As I had both drives out, I checked the floating (pivot) bearing and the bearings felt different. One set was definitely a little smoother than the other (the smoother rotating ones on the FD going into the 99 of course!), so I had bought a set thinking could swap the out easily if I ever needed to. Now, chapter 33 of the service manual and I have become new best friends, but I couldn't find anyway to tell me how to get these puppies out. I tried heating it up with a gun but became a little nervous when I thought I may do something to the pinion seal with the heat so I decided to reassemble it with the old bearings after giving them a dollop or synth bearing grease and tested it with a little ride. Everything on both bikes felt perfect, so I am wondering if I should leave it the way it is or let one of you kind gentlemen give me the scoop on how to get these in and out and I can practice my FD remove/replace/adjust while replacing the fixed/floating bearings. So is it heat or a bearing puller? I REALLY do not want to mess this up.

2012 K1600GT

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post #2 of 4 Old Aug 17th, 2009, 1:56 am
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Re: Final Drive assembly advice

This might not be the correct answer to your question, but I switched my original pivot bearings to these:

http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html

So I simply used a flat screwdriver and hammer to pop the old ones out. Then put the new bushing outer rings in the freezer while heated up the FD and the new ones went in with minimum pounding with a plastic hammer.

However, these bushings need to be retightened after some 500 - 1000 km. (Actually I have done it twice.)

Regards

Ari "the Farkle-Freak-Finn" Ignatius

Hyvinkää, Finland
2004 ('05) LT, Dark Graphite, "Sunset Cruiser II"

Bike trip from Finland to USA:

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post #3 of 4 Old Aug 17th, 2009, 8:55 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Final Drive assembly advice

Ok, I have one vote for this technique, if there is another way to do this please share otherwise I have a new project coming up with the knowledge I have here.

Thanks!

2012 K1600GT

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post #4 of 4 Old Aug 18th, 2009, 1:28 pm
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Location: Hazel Green, AL, USA
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Re: Final Drive assembly advice

I put in the same set Ari did and I found a socket that fit the back side of the race and used a short extention to tap the old one out. It came out pretty easy. I had a bearing tool that I have had for years that has stepped taper sets that match up with the taper side of the race and a rim to drive the new race in place. Here a picture would worth 1,000 words but I am at work.

John
2009 K1300GT Red Rocket
2009 R1200GS (Gone)
2005 K1200LT Ocean Blue Blue Wizard 110 K and counting...
2006 Bushtec Turbo+2 Spell
2004 330 Ci Convertable
K4AN

Have ridden a Motorcycle in all 48
But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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