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post #1 of 35 Old Aug 10th, 2009, 10:08 pm Thread Starter
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quick disconnects

I don't know why it happens so freuquentlly...but when someone posts a problem I get the same problem here...way too coincidental!!! This problem needs a bunch of complaints to the bureau...http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ is the site. These POS disconnects throw gasoline when they're broken and are dangerous beyone belief. I just replaced mine today which were spewing gasoline three feet out from the connector. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE file a complaint at the above website. This is one more thing about the LT that is just unacceptable.and beyond what is reasonable and is totally irreresponsible from a manufacturer.

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post #2 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 5:08 am
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Re: quick disconnects

question? did you replace with OEM or use aftermarket QD's?

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post #3 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 6:57 am
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Re: quick disconnects

The new QD's from BMW are metal and won't have this problem. They're also almost $100.

Most people use after market QD's, or like me, I used some cheap copper plumbing equipment from Home Depot.

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post #4 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 6:59 am
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reid
I don't know why it happens so freuquentlly...but when someone posts a problem I get the same problem here...way too coincidental!!! This problem needs a bunch of complaints to the bureau...http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ is the site. These POS disconnects throw gasoline when they're broken and are dangerous beyone belief. I just replaced mine today which were spewing gasoline three feet out from the connector. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE file a complaint at the above website. This is one more thing about the LT that is just unacceptable.and beyond what is reasonable and is totally irreresponsible from a manufacturer.

I totally agree with you here. This is really embarrassing from BMW. This highlights why BMW just is not as reliable as Honda. If Honda had a leaky QD, it would immediately issue a recall and put a better QD on all the new bikes, but BMW used the leaky QD's for years and years.

02 LT
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post #5 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 9:10 am Thread Starter
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Re: quick disconnects

I replaced mine with brass barbed fittings from my auto parts supplier.

I know owners are replacing them with after-market connectors and that BMW is using a different QD now. My point is this: bikes out there with the old QD's need to be recalled and the QD's replaced. Period. There are a lot of them out there with the old QD's and it's an accident waiting to happen.

Reido
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post #6 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 3:21 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

On the subject of QD's, a question for the experts. Were these improved and do not require replacement after a certain model year? I have a 2007 LT and want to decide whether to replace them when I do my 24K. Thanks.

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post #7 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 5:26 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

I just called the shop that I use here in Houston, Texas and my cost on them was 53.00 for 2 male metal QD. That did not include the clamps. I was told that just the male ends needed to be replaced. I did crack one of the male plastic nipple pulling them apart.
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post #8 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 6:28 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

Parts designed to fail = After Sale Revenue....

Why would they replace the cheap QD's for free when they can SELL you a new set for a Hundred Bucks ?

Most folks who own a BMW have the stealership work on it...
Just us madhatters who work alone use the aftermarket better quality parts.

So deny them their claim on your money and fix it yourself.
A couple of barbs and 4 hose clamps and you're on your way...

Then take the old ones down to the dealership and throw them thru the front window.
(Works better with final drives)

My question is, If the part fails while the bike is under warranty and the bike burns down, Do you think BMW will give you a new bike ?

John

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post #9 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 6:56 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

What's a little fire for a true BMW enthusiast?
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post #10 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 7:17 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

The original QD's are fine ONLY if you disconnect them properly and without bending them. The latch groove is the weak point and if you don't pull straight out on them you stress it. The way the hoses line up and their length makes it difficult to do this unless you really focus. I still changed mine out to metal ones even though I was careful with the OEM plastic ones. I still carry the plastic ones as a spare for my friends.

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post #11 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 7:39 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

To echo what John said - I have 6 1/2 tears on my LT and have taken the tank off a minimum of once a year and have no issues.

I guess I would like to see how the failure manifests itself - pictures would help.

The amount of plastic in future motorcycles and automobiles will be increasing and understanding how to handle those parts will be important and fundamental.

Certainly converting to metal parts minimizes failures in the field.

I guess it is possible to damage the part and not even know it or are these fatigue failures??

Dan Finazzo
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post #12 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 8:28 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

I just replace mine this past weekend due to a leak. I took my tank off in September 08 and didn't have a problem until now. The fuel was spraying out several feet. Fortunately for me mine began leaking as the bike idled in the driveway. I had to do my 30k maintenance and add a couple of things to the bike so I made a weekend of it.
I replaced mine with two metal QDs from smallparts.com

Have a great ride,

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post #13 of 35 Old Aug 11th, 2009, 9:53 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
The original QD's are fine ONLY if you disconnect them properly and without bending them. The latch groove is the weak point and if you don't pull straight out on them you stress it. The way the hoses line up and their length makes it difficult to do this unless you really focus. I still changed mine out to metal ones even though I was careful with the OEM plastic ones. I still carry the plastic ones as a spare for my friends.
In over 40k miles I never removed my fuel tank and never removed the QD's, and it STILL failed

02 LT
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post #14 of 35 Old Aug 12th, 2009, 9:31 am Thread Starter
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Re: quick disconnects

Ditto on the last post. I have 20K on my bike, never removed tank nor had any reason to evn touch the QD. The male side of the pressurized line failed where on the non-barbed side at the latch groove. Mine are in the garbage, I could pull them and post a picture, but ya can't see the separation even with a magnifying glass without stressing the connection at that point, so it probably wouldn't do much good to shoot the picture.

Reido
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post #15 of 35 Old Aug 12th, 2009, 10:07 am
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Angry Re: quick disconnects

Replace the male half of the connector from Iron Horse, Tucson
$18.

Gasoline will ruin a nice pair of boots real quick.
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post #16 of 35 Old Aug 12th, 2009, 10:09 am
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenceer
Replace the male half of the connector from Iron Horse, Tucson
$18.

Gasoline will ruin a nice pair of boots real quick.
The replacement is plastic. It will in time break like the orignal, maybe.

It is interesting though, I never had one fail on it's own, only when I screwed up trying to get the two halves to mate after taking the tank off to change the fuel filter. And that is with almost 100,000 miles on two LTs and only one broken plastic BMW QD.

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post #17 of 35 Old Aug 12th, 2009, 8:58 pm
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Red face Re: quick disconnects

Dang!

Pulled in the driveway today and fuel was spewing everywhere!

Crap!

Guess it's time to upgrade my QD!

At least I wuz at the hacienda!
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post #18 of 35 Old Aug 12th, 2009, 9:15 pm Thread Starter
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Re: quick disconnects

Yes to all responses. I'd like to say this to those who say "just replace them"...there's no reason they should fail and the potential of a terrible burn accident is way too high.

Reido
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post #19 of 35 Old Aug 14th, 2009, 9:17 am
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Re: quick disconnects

Just a quick question. It is my understanding that the 2000 LT does not have QD. Is this correct?

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post #20 of 35 Old Aug 14th, 2009, 10:01 am
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Re: quick disconnects

If you are the original owner it may not. Many added them as an after market thing. I have seen some that were without still. Easy to check, shine a flash light into the opening just above the tip over bar. You can see the hoses and there are either disconnects or just joined hoses with clamps.

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post #21 of 35 Old Aug 14th, 2009, 10:02 am
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reid
Yes to all responses. I'd like to say this to those who say "just replace them"...there's no reason they should fail and the potential of a terrible burn accident is way too high.
I agree there is no reason these should fail...Unless they have been miss handled either by dealer mechanics or owners.

John
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #22 of 35 Old Aug 14th, 2009, 11:11 am
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler
I agree there is no reason these should fail...Unless they have been miss handled either by dealer mechanics or owners.
Are you pointing your finger at me again Mr Zieler?

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post #23 of 35 Old Aug 14th, 2009, 7:03 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_R
Are you pointing your finger at me again Mr Zieler?
Ooops, I just re-read your post. No not intentionally. Just trying to point out to be careful when disconnecting them.

John
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But lack DE, MA, RI and CT with the 2005 LT

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post #24 of 35 Old Aug 14th, 2009, 8:02 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

When mine failed I couldn't believe how hard it was to get them apart. Every time I disconnect them a little fuel comes out. I always wipe the male end & lube it before I reconnect it. Now when I push the release lever they just pop apart. I'll bet whoever worked on my bike before me never put any lube on them.

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post #25 of 35 Old Aug 15th, 2009, 9:47 am
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Re: quick disconnects

Well put Dave, dry o-rings don't work very well.

John
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post #26 of 35 Old Aug 15th, 2009, 7:10 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddle-man
When mine failed I couldn't believe how hard it was to get them apart. Every time I disconnect them a little fuel comes out. I always wipe the male end & lube it before I reconnect it. Now when I push the release lever they just pop apart. I'll bet whoever worked on my bike before me never put any lube on them.
Do you use silicon or something else?

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post #27 of 35 Old Aug 15th, 2009, 8:15 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voyager
Do you use silicon or something else?
Because most everything on the bike is somewhat exposed to the weather I use marine grease. I also use it on the right & left side body panels on the rubber where the stud goes in. Also the rubber muffler hanger. Vaseline would more than likely work just as well. But I think any kind of lube is better than none at all.

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post #28 of 35 Old Aug 16th, 2009, 7:54 am
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by saddle-man
Because most everything on the bike is somewhat exposed to the weather I use marine grease. I also use it on the right & left side body panels on the rubber where the stud goes in. Also the rubber muffler hanger. Vaseline would more than likely work just as well. But I think any kind of lube is better than none at all.
My concern is compatibility with the seal material. A seal that can withstand gas is proably OK with petroleum based lubes, but other seal materials can be destroyed quickly by petroleum products. I'm always a little nervous lubing a seal unless the maker recommends a lubricant type.

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post #29 of 35 Old Aug 16th, 2009, 11:44 am
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reid
I replaced mine with brass barbed fittings from my auto parts supplier.

I know owners are replacing them with after-market connectors and that BMW is using a different QD now. My point is this: bikes out there with the old QD's need to be recalled and the QD's replaced. Period. There are a lot of them out there with the old QD's and it's an accident waiting to happen.
Reid, I couldn't agree with you more. This is a serious safety issue that has never been addressed
I just bought a 2005 LT and I'm surprised to hear I got to replace the QD on this bike too.
I owned a 2003 KRS and a 2003 GT which I just sold. I replaced the QD on both bikes with Omega metal units. With QD spilling gas on a engine's hot temperature there is a high risk of fire.

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post #30 of 35 Old Aug 16th, 2009, 3:25 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

All metal quick disconnects. no lube. no replacement parts-- ever.. The last QD you will need.

These have been used on race cars for years and we have sold hundreds to BMW motorcycle owners.

Bad deal that BMW used plastic QD's----but these fittings are a permanent solution for not a ton of money.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/c...ne_Disconnects


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post #31 of 35 Old Aug 16th, 2009, 4:59 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by tvolk
All metal quick disconnects. no lube. no replacement parts-- ever.. The last QD you will need.

These have been used on race cars for years and we have sold hundreds to BMW motorcycle owners.

Bad deal that BMW used plastic QD's----but these fittings are a permanent solution for not a ton of money.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/c...ne_Disconnects


Full disclosure:

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Tom Volk
They look very nice and I plan to get a set when I do my 24K ... assuming that the stock parts last until then. Do these have no o-rings at all? Are they a metal to metal seal? I saw the comment about fluorocarbon seals, but a search on that fond all sorts of seal materials such as PTFE, NBR, FPM, POM, etc. What material is used in the parts you sell?

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post #32 of 35 Old Aug 16th, 2009, 7:35 pm
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Re: quick disconnects

All quick disconnects use o rings. Not sure what material they're made of though.

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post #33 of 35 Old Aug 17th, 2009, 7:20 am
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Re: quick disconnects

Buna-N is the O-ring material I use.

I installed chrome plated brass fittings made by 'Colder'. The Colder part numbers are; LCD17005(female) and LCD22005 (male). Those links will take you to the QuickCouplings.com website. Another seller is Omega.com (Omega item numbers FT-LC220-05 and FT-LC170-05), but they are a bit more expensive. part numbers
Unfortunately, I bought mine from www.mscdirect.com (item numbers #88080445 (2 each) and #88080486 (2 each), but I really wish I would have known about QuickCouplings.com, where the fittings are significantly cheaper.

Anyway, the Colder brand fittings are really nice fittings. Both sides have positive shut-offs when disconnected. For what it's worth, I re-used the OEM stainless steel crimp-style hose clamps when I installed my QD's. I've had my fuel tank off several times after installing the new QD's...and I must say, I'm really pleased witht them. In fact, just had my tank off yesterday. Put a couple of new O-rings in and back together in a snap.

I also bought 100 replacement O-rings (for a whopping $1.87). I bought the o-rings from http://www.mcmaster.com/ , part number #9452K19. Industry standard, size - 011, Buna-N, Hardness-Shore: A70.
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post #34 of 35 Old Aug 17th, 2009, 8:23 am
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Re: quick disconnects

Here is an official explanation of the Jiffy Tite seal. We have never had a failed part.
The QD's are not rebuildable. (no reason to rebuild!)



The Jiffy Tite socket has an internal face seal of Viton Flourocarbon. The
Viton seal is compatible with most oil, water, fuel, or transmission
applications.

When the plug is inserted into the socket it contacts the face seal and as
the plug and socket are pressed together the collar locks the two together
compressing the face seal. The face seal is what seals allowing the fluid to
flow through the fitting without leaking.

The o-ring seal is what seals the fitting when separated so no fluid is
lost.



Tom Volk
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Re: quick disconnects

Quote:
Originally Posted by tvolk
Here is an official explanation of the Jiffy Tite seal. We have never had a failed part.
The QD's are not rebuildable. (no reason to rebuild!)



The Jiffy Tite socket has an internal face seal of Viton Flourocarbon. The
Viton seal is compatible with most oil, water, fuel, or transmission
applications.

When the plug is inserted into the socket it contacts the face seal and as
the plug and socket are pressed together the collar locks the two together
compressing the face seal. The face seal is what seals allowing the fluid to
flow through the fitting without leaking.

The o-ring seal is what seals the fitting when separated so no fluid is
lost.



Tom Volk
These are impressive pieces of hardware.

2017 KLR650 "Mule"
2007 K1200LT "Starship Enterprise", VOICE II, Navigator V, Motorrad Communicator
1987 Kawasaki Voyager XII
1976 Kawasaki KH400
1973 Kawasaki 100 G5
1970 Rockford Chibi (the orange one)

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