Originally Posted by Caveno
this weekend I plan to remove the fuel tank, I looked at the service manual, wondering if there are any gotchas?
Keep close track of the rubber inserts, aluminum sleeves and thin rubber washers associated with both rear mounts -- when you pull the tank back/off the frame, it's common to have some/all of these bits fall out.
Before you pull the tank off, you'll have to disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector and the two quick-disconnects on the fuel lines. Not much finger room around there. With my LT's, I would unbolt the tank, then lift the rear end of the tank up a couple inches and stick a chunk of 2x4 under the center rear of the tank to hold it up while I undid the connectors.
When undoing the fuel line quick disconnects, hold the release tab until the disconnect is completely apart -- prevents the sharp edge of the release tab from cutting the o-ring on the male part. Same on reassembly. A paper towel under the quick disconnects will catch the few tenths of an ounce of fuel that spill out of the connectors. Turn each downward briefly to dump the last couple drops.
On reassembly, a quick hit of silicone to lube the disconnect o-ring makes it slide into the female half easier.
Purchase a few quick disconnect o-rings -- that will ensure that you don't cut one when reassembling
When disconnecting the two drain hoses at the front right of the tank at the connectors about 10-12" below the tank top, remove on hose from the top of one connector, and the other from the bottom of the other connector -- that way you can't mix up which is the gas bib and the tank vent hose (of course, if you've done a canisterectomy, this is no longer a problem!)
When reinstalling the tank, a hit of silicone on each of the forward rubber mounts helps the tank slide on easier.
When reinstalling the tank, it is *really* easy to not see that you've trapped the two drain/vent hoses between the right front edge of the tank and the right tank mount. This will crimp off the tank vent, giving you the same symptoms as a clogged charcoal canister (tank collapse, engine stalling, etc.). How easy? I've lost count how many times I've pull an LT tank, and I know about this problem -- yet I've done it more than once!
Before putting the tupperware back on, turn on the ignition key and place the kill switch into the run position -- you want to hear the fuel pump run for ~2 seconds (the normal line-pressurization cycle) to confirm that it's correctly assembled. I usually place a clean folded paper towel under the fuel lines before turning on the key, and let it sit under the lines for a few seconds after the pump runs to confirm no fuel leakage (i.e., fully seated quick disconnects, with no nicked o-rings).
Take *great* care when starting the tank mounting bolts back into the frame. The weight of the tank and the pressure from the annoyingly-pita seat subframe tend to make it hard to run the bolts in straight -- but if not started cleanly, the steel bolts can absolutely bung-up the threads in the aluminum frame backbone.