Originally Posted by KJN
Good pointer on the white out!
Will do. She's due for the 36K check. I'll take a look and see if there's any thing I can do.
A few thoughts:
Keep the screws for each panel in ziplok bags, and either keep them with their panel, or put a name tag inside each bag.
When reinstalling the screws, make sure they are properly aligned and started by finger before putting a tool to them -- the screws are relatively soft and when cross-threaded, deform easily. One of my early purchases was a 5mm x 0.8 pitch die and a corresponding tap to chase/save threads.
You'll need a T25 Torx for most of the screws, and a 3mm Allen for the screws under the tip over wing covers unless the PO replaced the 3 mm Allen screws with T25's. Also, a Phillips screwdriver for the front turn signal lens screws.
Suggestion: I found that a T25 1/4" drive bit on an electric screwdriver to be worth its weight in Gold for wrist-fatigue elimination.
One of the first panels to remove is the small cover under the oddments compartment lock -- once its screws are out slide it *down* an inch or so before lifting it off the bike to avoid breaking off the small tabs underneath.
The mirrors have to be popped off to get the clear wings off -- you can remove the three screws holding the wings on, but the wing's base (actooly, tops) won't drop down clear of the bottom of the mirror with the mirror present.
The radio stingray has three (or more) connectors under the left lower edge of the dashboard. Once all six screws are out of the stingray, you will be able to lift slightly at the rear of the unit and pull it back an inch or two. You then will have finger access to the connectors to push in their locking tabs and separate the stingray from the bike.
Putting the stingray back on can be a major pita, particularly the two screws closest to the centerline at the front -- getting at least three semi-warped panels to come together in a way that lets you get the screw down into the zip-nut below can be a challenge. Bow to the LT gods, go slow and doesn't get frustrated and force things. If necessary, stick an ice pick down the hole to insert its tip into the zipnut to drap the zipnut sidewwys to the right location to receive the screw (the zipnuts have no lateral locating features, so they are easily knocked out of place).
As you put the stingray back (or after, before you tighten it all down) push/pull the rubber bib around the fuel filler tray back into place behind the fuel lid so that the lid will properly close -- also pull the rubber fuel cap holder post back out from under the front edge of the stingray panel.
With reasonable mechanical ability, you can do all of the maintenance, including valve clearance checks (and maybe even valve bucket replacements) yourself -- the real question is whether you are comfortable with this, or whether there's another experienced LT'er nearby to watch over/help you.
FWIW, because its a minor pita to remove the fuel tank to get aceess to the air filter, unless I was also going in to replace the fuel filter (which, by BTW, is currently due if you are at 36K if memory serves) I wouldn't do it. If you decide to do either undertank filter, be aware that the seat frame that straddles the tank can be a *major* pita to reinstall because the earliest bikes had seat frames that were ***just*** a hair off -- enough that the left rear leg of the seat frame wouldn't line up. If you have one of these, you need to put the left rear bolt in first, then walk/twist/threaten the remaining bolts. The changeover to a slightly better fitting (but still a pita) seat frame occurred in mid-2000, so I can't tell from here whether this will be an issue for you.
There's quite a few more comments on tank removal and replacement to pass on, but time is short at the moment -- I'll be happy to pass them on if you respond that you do intend to remove the tank.
When you get to the tranny gear oil replacement, the drain (a 14 mm Allen -- big sucker) is directly above a muffler support bracket which must be removed to get to the plug. The center stand is also directly below the drain, so you'll need a ramp to divert the oil to your drain container -- I used a folded/creased piece of old box top -- simple, effective and cheap (just like me!
For perhaps obvious reasons, before removing the drain plug, make sure that you've broken the fill plug loose. To get to the tranny filler plug, remove the three Allen bolts holding the footpeg plate to the frame (6mm ?? Allen), Beware of two things as you swing the plate upward/rearward out of the way: (i) the rear brake master cylinder hose is *very* short and relatively inflexible -- I don't rotate the plate upwards (not outwards) more than 70-80 degress; and (ii) you should put something between the plat and the bike to prevent scratches. I usually tied-off/held the plate out of the way with a couple long zipties chained between the plate and the bike's rear frame.
Sorry, need to go now -- will try to add more later -- post Qs if you got 'em!