Removing the center stand - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 9 Old Jul 18th, 2009, 12:50 am Thread Starter
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Removing the center stand

I am going to R&R the center stand on my 03 LT. My plan is to put heat on the threaded area to loosen the thread lock. Is there anything I need to worry about with open flame in that area of the bike? Fumes etc.? Does anything vent down there?
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post #2 of 9 Old Jul 18th, 2009, 7:26 am
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Re: Removing the center stand

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Originally Posted by davek1
I am going to R&R the center stand on my 03 LT. My plan is to put heat on the threaded area to loosen the thread lock. Is there anything I need to worry about with open flame in that area of the bike? Fumes etc.? Does anything vent down there?
Why not use a heat gun? Much safer; less riskier; and should get the job done with no worries. Open flame seems problematic to leading to sumpthin' serious! jmtc
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post #3 of 9 Old Jul 18th, 2009, 7:42 am
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Re: Removing the center stand

Nothing flammable there, but if possible use a heat gun and not a flame device. There may be oil on top of the skid plate, so check that.

To loosen Loctite, you heat to only around 170 deg. F., so do not over heat it. There are O-rings on the pivots, so if you heat it too much you can damage them.

I removed mine without heating anything.

IF you are removing the stand pivots for lubrication:

Getting the spring off is difficult, but this method has been used: With the stand down, put as many coins or washers between the coils as you can, then when the stand is folded back up the spring will be loose on the hooks.

Getting the pivot bushings out can be quite difficult, since there is no way to drive them out of their pockets from the back side. You can use a small bent pick to put some pressure out on them and wiggle the stand back and forth to try to move them. They only have to move out about 1/8" on each side to release from their pockets. Then you can drop the stand and knock them the rest of the way out.

Tip: Once out, you can use a 7/16" tap to tap about two threads into the outside end of them, then next time you want to remove for lubrication use a 7/16" bolt (same thread pitch as you tap them, 7/16-14 or 7/16-20) as a puller.

You MAY be able to use a tap to pull them out first time, if you can get the tap to just start cutting before the bushing spins.

I don't want to achieve immortality through my work...I want to achieve it through not dying.

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EX: '01 Black LT, BAT BYKE (Totaled at 110,000 miles)
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post #4 of 9 Old Jul 18th, 2009, 9:12 am Thread Starter
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Re: Removing the center stand

Thanks,
I'm on my way to rent a heat gun.
Dave
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post #5 of 9 Old Jul 18th, 2009, 2:25 pm
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Re: Removing the center stand

Rent a heat gun? They aren't that expensive and have many uses around the garage and house. Available at most any hardware store or Harbor Freight.
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post #6 of 9 Old Jul 18th, 2009, 5:41 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Removing the center stand

Heat gun was perfect. 3-4 minutes on each side and the bolts came out.
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post #7 of 9 Old Jul 18th, 2009, 6:39 pm
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Re: Removing the center stand

I recently removed my center stand and did not need any heat to remove these bolts

Are you talking about the two long ones on the rear (arrows) ?

I did this because I had a shock on the frame stand, and now the rear bolt of the oil cover is hard to remove, in fact it killed me the thread in the aluminum during last oil change ...

I plan to use a torch (once naked and out) to put back the frame in its original geometry ...

Gerard

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post #8 of 9 Old Jul 19th, 2009, 1:27 am Thread Starter
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Re: Removing the center stand

I am talking about the 2 bolts that fit inside the centerstand bushings. Right at the point of rotation.
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post #9 of 9 Old Jul 19th, 2009, 3:07 am
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Re: Removing the center stand

Understood !!

I did not remove the centerstand itself, only the elc/hydro system ....

thanks; Gerard
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