Throttle Cable Replacement - BMW Luxury Touring Community
 
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post #1 of 12 Old May 20th, 2009, 6:51 pm Thread Starter
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Throttle Cable Replacement

Well I got the parts and started my throttle cable replacement to the latest and greatest. Good thing I decided to do it now as I found the green cable down to about a single thread left right down by the throttle bodies. I don't know how it got that way and I looked to see if it could have been rubbing on something, but I didn't see anything it could have been hitting. I'ts a good thing I found that now because it was a question of if and not when that last thread of the cable was going to break. It could have put me in a pretty bad spot. Anyhow, like a lot of things, doing this is not as easy as some of the articles on it would suggest. The one I got off the last post I did on the subject said to remove the two screws that hold the cruise control stop switch in place. The only trouble is you can't get to them unless you remove the airbox it would seem. How do you do that? Even with that removed, it seems it would be hard to get in there to place the cable ends on the wheel and get the old ones off. Also how does the handgrip come off? It seems I have to remove that to put on one of the new pieces, but I see no obvious way it comes off. Any more detailed suggestions on doing this?

Grey 14 K1600GT
Red 94 R1100RSL

Last edited by tonyn1; May 20th, 2009 at 11:15 pm.
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post #2 of 12 Old May 20th, 2009, 8:45 pm
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

I just did my throttle cable upgrade last month. You're right. It isn't as easy as it seemed at first. But with a little persistence it is worth every bit of effort. The LT is much, much more easy (and fun) to ride. As for getting the cables off at the throttle body end? First, I removed the two fuel lines from the fuel rail and then after taking the two bolts off the rail, gently pulled the fuel injectors out of their ports (please make sure there's no trash and/or dirt around the injectors to fall into the holes) and laid the fuel rail down. Next, there is a metal bracket in which the throttle cables go through. This bracket also holds the cruise switch (if I recall correctly) and is held to the throttle body bundle with two Torx screws. After I took those two screws out I was able to rotate the bracket as needed to get to the throttle cables and the cruise switch.

The biggest mistake I made was not routing the lower cable back below the fuel rail so when I put it back together it bound the return cable and wouldn't let the throttles close. I had to remove the fuel rail, throttle bracket and throttle cable and properly reroute the cable. After that, all was well.

Also, DO NOT loose the E-clip that holds the upper throttle cable into the bracket. Mine shot across the back of the engine never to be seen again. After two hours at the dealer, neither they, nor I, could find the clip, or the bracket on the parts microfiche. Even the techs couldn't find it. I finally had to take the old cable over to the hardware store and find an E-clip that fit. $0.23 later I was back in business.

Once you get the mod done you'll wish you'd done it a lot sooner.
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post #3 of 12 Old May 20th, 2009, 8:58 pm
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

Remove the bits and cables at grip end first; http://picasaweb.google.com/dtnicks/...leReplacement# Remove the fan, duct and vaccuum pod. Compress the spring by pushing it against the mount. Remove the e clip with a right angle pick. Push some slack on the cable to get it out of the grove on the pulley and remove the barrel end from the pulley. Oh, have a spare e clip in case you loose the one you take off. Put the new return cable on in reverse order. The open cable connects to the pulley on the bottom. Pull the loose old cable to rotate the pulley to a wide open throttle and wedge something in the linkage to hold it wide open, this will bring the connection up to the top where you can see it. Push some slack on the cable to get it out of the grove of the pulley and remove the barrel. Reverse order for the new cable. Don't need to take anything else apart or off. Tools forceps, right angle pick and needle nose pliers. Put the new bits on the grip and install the new cables.

Dave

2003 K1200LTC Titan Silver
BMWBMW, BMWMOA, AMA, IBA


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Last edited by Daveh; May 20th, 2009 at 9:22 pm.
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post #4 of 12 Old May 20th, 2009, 10:02 pm
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

I have just upgraded my throttle cables on my 04 LT. The results are great but I would prefer to get a root canal instead! Yes E-clip part was the most painful

Quote:
Originally Posted by pushin9s
I just did my throttle cable upgrade last month. You're right. It isn't as easy as it seemed at first. But with a little persistence it is worth every bit of effort. The LT is much, much more easy (and fun) to ride. As for getting the cables off at the throttle body end? First, I removed the two fuel lines from the fuel rail and then after taking the two bolts off the rail, gently pulled the fuel injectors out of their ports (please make sure there's no trash and/or dirt around the injectors to fall into the holes) and laid the fuel rail down. Next, there is a metal bracket in which the throttle cables go through. This bracket also holds the cruise switch (if I recall correctly) and is held to the throttle body bundle with two Torx screws. After I took those two screws out I was able to rotate the bracket as needed to get to the throttle cables and the cruise switch.

The biggest mistake I made was not routing the lower cable back below the fuel rail so when I put it back together it bound the return cable and wouldn't let the throttles close. I had to remove the fuel rail, throttle bracket and throttle cable and properly reroute the cable. After that, all was well.

Also, DO NOT loose the E-clip that holds the upper throttle cable into the bracket. Mine shot across the back of the engine never to be seen again. After two hours at the dealer, neither they, nor I, could find the clip, or the bracket on the parts microfiche. Even the techs couldn't find it. I finally had to take the old cable over to the hardware store and find an E-clip that fit. $0.23 later I was back in business.

Once you get the mod done you'll wish you'd done it a lot sooner.

Matt Kas

13 Triumph Trophy SE Lunar Silver
12 Suzuki Burgman 650 Executive Pearl White

Laguna Niguel, Southern California (South Orange County)
"Riding Year around"

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post #5 of 12 Old May 20th, 2009, 11:14 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

Do I need to remove the airbox to do this?

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post #6 of 12 Old May 20th, 2009, 11:52 pm
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyn1
Do I need to remove the airbox to do this?
Yes, the airbox will need to come off. Clymer's also says to remove the fuel rail, but if you have a set of very very long nosed pliers, you can get around that. My wife had a set of long hemostats that worked for me - saved a lot of work. Was able to thread the cable lickity-split with them!

The clamps on the air box into the throttle body are a bear. When replacing be very careful to make sure that they do not hang up the throttle (you'll see what I mena when you get there; not difficult, just be wary).

Brian
CCR: 2008, Midway; 2011, Boise; 2012, Duluth; 2014, Chattanooga. MOA: Billings, 2015; SLC, 2017
CCR-R: 2018, Russellville
'13 K1600 GTL-P - "Eva"
Sold but "beloved" ride: K12 LT - "Pepe"
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post #7 of 12 Old May 21st, 2009, 12:29 pm
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyn1
Do I need to remove the airbox to do this?
I did not remove any thing other than what I wrote previously. I did not remove the air box or fuel rail or cruise switch. I did have a third hand holding the flash light. The hardest part is removing the e clip.

Dave

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post #8 of 12 Old May 21st, 2009, 9:26 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

Well I finally got it done. I was going to remove the airbox like the Clymer manual said, but the clamps on the front two throttle bodies had no screws, they were kind of like Oetiker clamps, so they would have been a bear to get off, and then I would have to have found replacements for them. Looking at the situation, I found that I could work around it. You definitely have to remove the fan shroud, and also move that thingamajig with hoses coming off it whatever it is. It definitely helps to have some real long skinny instrument like hemostats or big tweezers to get in there. With slack on the top or off cable, you can get the end out of its hole. To get the bottom or open side out, rotate the trottle control and then stick something under the idle screw to hold it in place, then you can get that cable out and put the new one in the bottom. I found on the top however, that you can remove the screws for the bracket that holds the cruise control switch and the top cable. You can then swing the whole thing out to get at the e-clip on the back and install the new cable. My only question now is how do you adjust these cables? I tried the one on the open cable as the end of it kept popping out of the plastic grommet that goes in the bracket by the throttle cam. I guess it just tightens the plastic sheath of the cable is all I can see. I didn't do anything to the other one, and I don't know if I need to. By the way.I made up a Word document with the pictures and captions supplied by Dave in a post earlier in this thread. I hope he doesn't mind too much. It was helpful to be able to print it and have it in front of me. I've included in my post for others to use if that's alright with Dave.

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post #9 of 12 Old May 21st, 2009, 10:21 pm
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

You adjust the cables at the handle bar throttle. There should be a locking type nut for each cable to adjust.
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post #10 of 12 Old May 21st, 2009, 10:32 pm
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyn1
Well I finally got it done. I was going to remove the airbox like the Clymer manual said, but the clamps on the front two throttle bodies had no screws, they were kind of like Oetiker clamps, so they would have been a bear to get off, and then I would have to have found replacements for them. Looking at the situation, I found that I could work around it. You definitely have to remove the fan shroud, and also move that thingamajig with hoses coming off it whatever it is. It definitely helps to have some real long skinny instrument like hemostats or big tweezers to get in there. With slack on the top or off cable, you can get the end out of its hole. To get the bottom or open side out, rotate the trottle control and then stick something under the idle screw to hold it in place, then you can get that cable out and put the new one in the bottom. I found on the top however, that you can remove the screws for the bracket that holds the cruise control switch and the top cable. You can then swing the whole thing out to get at the e-clip on the back and install the new cable. My only question now is how do you adjust these cables? I tried the one on the open cable as the end of it kept popping out of the plastic grommet that goes in the bracket by the throttle cam. I guess it just tightens the plastic sheath of the cable is all I can see. I didn't do anything to the other one, and I don't know if I need to. By the way.I made up a Word document with the pictures and captions supplied by Dave in a post earlier in this thread. I hope he doesn't mind too much. It was helpful to be able to print it and have it in front of me. I've included in my post for others to use if that's alright with Dave.
On the open cable the plastic end on the cable should push into the bracket hole an stay. Once the grip end is all back together the Clymer tells how much play to have in the throttle. Using the 2 adjusters at the grip to get the proper play in the throttle. I didn't measure anything I just did it by feel. And, the link I provided wasn't mine, we just share the same name.

Dave

2003 K1200LTC Titan Silver
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post #11 of 12 Old May 21st, 2009, 10:40 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveh
On the open cable the plastic end on the cable should push into the bracket hole an stay. Once the grip end is all back together the Clymer tells how much play to have in the throttle. Using the 2 adjusters at the grip to get the proper play in the throttle. I didn't measure anything I just did it by feel. And, the link I provided wasn't mine, we just share the same name.
The Clymer manual shows adjustment for the old type of cable, so I'm not sure how I should adjust this one. The plastic end of the cable does stay in the bracket, but the end of the cable that goes in that plastic end was not staying there until I made that adustment, but I don't know if that's all I need to do. I didn't do anything to the other cable at all, and I don't know if I need to.

Grey 14 K1600GT
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post #12 of 12 Old May 22nd, 2009, 7:10 am
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Re: Throttle Cable Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyn1
The Clymer manual shows adjustment for the old type of cable, so I'm not sure how I should adjust this one. The plastic end of the cable does stay in the bracket, but the end of the cable that goes in that plastic end was not staying there until I made that adustment, but I don't know if that's all I need to do. I didn't do anything to the other cable at all, and I don't know if I need to.
The adjustment procedure is the same whether its old style or new style cables. Its just a small amount of play in the turning of the grip.

Dave

2003 K1200LTC Titan Silver
BMWBMW, BMWMOA, AMA, IBA


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