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post #1 of 19 Old May 4th, 2009, 7:23 pm Thread Starter
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New trunk latch woes

This is not my day!!!
I was installing Evan's trunk latch (http://www.lttrunklatch.com) on my LT that has the Central Locking option. The small linkage rod - with an even smaller thread, snapped off when I was trying to unscrew it. Evan had lots of cautions about this in his detailed instructions, however I obviously was not careful enough when unscrewing it with pliers.

Will have to see if I can repair or machine a new one!!!

Mumble, mumble, mumble!!
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post #2 of 19 Old May 4th, 2009, 9:39 pm
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Hey Realwing BE CAREFUL!! That's what my wife always says after I break something. Hopefully you can work something out!!!

Scott

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post #3 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 6:42 am
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Re: New trunk latch woes

It's not a big problem, you can fix it! Let me get organized this morning and I'll tell you what I did to fix one. It's a very delicate joint! I'll address this a little bit later....
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post #4 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 9:39 am Thread Starter
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Quote:
Originally Posted by BilletsGalore
It's not a big problem, you can fix it! Let me get organized this morning and I'll tell you what I did to fix one. It's a very delicate joint! I'll address this a little bit later....
Evan

Wow - thanks very much!!!!
Jim

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1969 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback 340-auto
1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible, 6.1 L SRT8 Hemi transplant
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post #5 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 9:53 am
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Re: New trunk latch woes

When I tackled mine I didn't have instructions for the electric lock part. Figuring it out was interesting to say the least. They put thread lock on that tiny rod. I kept looking for the "No serviceable parts inside" sticker.

Scott
2009 LT
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post #6 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 10:07 am
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerdad
When I tackled mine I didn't have instructions for the electric lock part. Figuring it out was interesting to say the least. They put thread lock on that tiny rod. I kept looking for the "No serviceable parts inside" sticker.
I've only sold 2 kits that integrated the CLS option, I'll assume your kit didn't come from me?
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post #7 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 10:09 am
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Re: New trunk latch woes

I would like to meet whatever BMW guy invented that latch - what was he on?

.

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post #8 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 10:26 am
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Jim,

Go ahead with the disassembly process. Once you get the 2 tiny parts out, you've got to extract the broken 2mm male thread from the female hole.

The first one I had ever seen was broken by the buyer because he had no idea how it was joined.

1) MEASURE the length of the female part that has the broken part contained within. You might be touching the end to a belt sander later on, and you'll need to know how much you've ground away.

2) Using a "dremel tool" with the little brown abrasive cut-off wheel (about 1" in diameter), you're going to grind a slot thru both the female part and the male part. You're grinding a small 'screwdriver slot'

3) Use a suitably sized jeweler's screwdriver to unscrew the broken part (ccw). If it doesn't unscrew, it is because it boogered up the thread where it broke. Touch it to a belt sander or grinder, then try the screwdriver again.

4) After you remove the part, it's time to find a small lathe. Make a slight facing cut where you ground the female part, just to square it up. (SKIP this step if you didn't need to grind it)

5) You're going to drill and tap both parts. I opted to go slightly larger and English thread rather than metric. I drilled and tapped both pieces for #2-56 thread. DO NOT BREAK THE TAP!! (You might want to go 1 drill size larger than the recommended to reduce the stress on the tap)

6) If you had to grind the part, you'll need to machine a spacer the same length as what was removed by grinding/facing. Thru-drill it quite close to the diameter of the thread you're going to use. Machine the OD about .002-.005 inches smaller in diameter than the 2 parts. This will keep it from snagging as it travels thru the end of the bore.

7) I used a black alloy steel cap screw and cut the head off with the dremel abrasive wheel. The black alloy steel is MUCH stronger that what broke!

A small machine shop should have NO problem with this! A case or two of beer should get it done!

Or you can mail me the parts and I'll gladly "tune 'em up for you"....BUT, your riding season IS upon you and is too brief!! And international shipping takes too long.

Lemme know!

PS, the picture you've shown with the blue background is taken from my instructions. THAT ONE was broken! Notice the silver aluminum spacer and black screw.

Best,
Evan

6)
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post #9 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 10:48 am Thread Starter
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Thanks Evan

That was basically the procedure I was going to try. I know a good machinist.
I had also thought of using epoxy to secure the new bolt thread in the rod.
If this thread originally had Locktite on it, then a little heat will probably help get the remains of the screw out.

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1969 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback 340-auto
1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible, 6.1 L SRT8 Hemi transplant
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post #10 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 10:56 am
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Evan
I got my latch from BMWRIDER79. He made a real nice latch but it wasn't ready for the electric lock so I had to made the modification. It all worked out.

Scott
2009 LT
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post #11 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 4:18 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Evan

I managed to remove the broken thread out of the rod, using the method you suggested. I applied some heat with a heat gun as well.
Will see my machinist later tonight - but he says he is backed up with work!!

I may have to ship the parts to you to put in the new threads. I'll let you know.

Jim

2015 K1600GTL
1970 Plymouth Superbird 440-6bbl
1969 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback 340-auto
1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible, 6.1 L SRT8 Hemi transplant
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post #12 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 4:36 pm
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Quote:
Originally Posted by RealWing
Evan

I managed to remove the broken thread out of the rod, using the method you suggested. I applied some heat with a heat gun as well.
Will see my machinist later tonight - but he says he is backed up with work!!

I may have to ship the parts to you to put in the new threads. I'll let you know.

Jim
I'll do it, I just feel bad that your riding season is upon you....ask around, even ask your machinist if he knows a hobby machinist dude who WILL NOT break off the tap! Does your machinist drink beer? I don't know a machinist who doesn't.

Tell the guy that riding season is HERE and look really sad, pathetic, and ask, "How much beer will it take to get ya to help me?".....

Good to hear you got it out!

Evan
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post #13 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 5:00 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New trunk latch woes

I'm in luck - he will likely have it done tomorrow!!! No problem at all he said.
He is a "retired" machinist from a nuclear plant where I also used to work. He has a shop in his basement and does a lot of work on guns etc and works with parts this small all the time.

He just finished a prototype underwater UT unit for Pratt and Whitney - all made out of Delrin.

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1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible, 6.1 L SRT8 Hemi transplant
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post #14 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 5:51 pm
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Quote:
Originally Posted by BilletsGalore
Jim,

Go ahead with the disassembly process. Once you get the 2 tiny parts out, you've got to extract the broken 2mm male thread from the female hole.

The first one I had ever seen was broken by the buyer because he had no idea how it was joined.

1) MEASURE the length of the female part that has the broken part contained within. You might be touching the end to a belt sander later on, and you'll need to know how much you've ground away.

2) Using a "dremel tool" with the little brown abrasive cut-off wheel (about 1" in diameter), you're going to grind a slot thru both the female part and the male part. You're grinding a small 'screwdriver slot'

3) Use a suitably sized jeweler's screwdriver to unscrew the broken part (ccw). If it doesn't unscrew, it is because it boogered up the thread where it broke. Touch it to a belt sander or grinder, then try the screwdriver again.

4) After you remove the part, it's time to find a small lathe. Make a slight facing cut where you ground the female part, just to square it up. (SKIP this step if you didn't need to grind it)

5) You're going to drill and tap both parts. I opted to go slightly larger and English thread rather than metric. I drilled and tapped both pieces for #2-56 thread. DO NOT BREAK THE TAP!! (You might want to go 1 drill size larger than the recommended to reduce the stress on the tap)

6) If you had to grind the part, you'll need to machine a spacer the same length as what was removed by grinding/facing. Thru-drill it quite close to the diameter of the thread you're going to use. Machine the OD about .002-.005 inches smaller in diameter than the 2 parts. This will keep it from snagging as it travels thru the end of the bore.

7) I used a black alloy steel cap screw and cut the head off with the dremel abrasive wheel. The black alloy steel is MUCH stronger that what broke!

A small machine shop should have NO problem with this! A case or two of beer should get it done!

Or you can mail me the parts and I'll gladly "tune 'em up for you"....BUT, your riding season IS upon you and is too brief!! And international shipping takes too long.

Lemme know!

PS, the picture you've shown with the blue background is taken from my instructions. THAT ONE was broken! Notice the silver aluminum spacer and black screw.

Best,
Evan

6)
Evan, I sent you a note last week about a replacement latch for my 2005 (CLS). I think I am ready to order one now.

My actuator is already broken. Should I send you the piece that have laying around the trunk bottom for a repair? This will allow me to keep riding, especially with Rolling Thunder just around the corner.

Cheers, Glenn
[email protected]

Glenn
Virginia Beach VA and Washington DC

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post #15 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 6:59 pm
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennM86
Evan, I sent you a note last week about a replacement latch for my 2005 (CLS). I think I am ready to order one now.

My actuator is already broken. Should I send you the piece that have laying around the trunk bottom for a repair? This will allow me to keep riding, especially with Rolling Thunder just around the corner.

Cheers, Glenn
[email protected]cox.net
Glenn,

Does the broken part resemble what's in the photos?

If the answer is yes, then I will help you. BUT!! You will have to ALSO send me the Latch Assembly. That means you've drilled some rivets and you've taken a lot of hardware out of that trunk.

Here's the deal. If your locking linkage is broken just like part in the picture, then BOTH parts have to go to the lathe...one part is installed deeply within the Latch Assembly (it's the very hinge pin). So I've got to have both parts.

When is your event? If you send me the Latch Assembly AND the broken part, I'll turn it around. While it is plenty of work on this end, I'll throw it in for free...

BIG batch of trunk latch handles coming out of my home-made "step-in" paint spray booth...like right now! Pics to follow...

If you send me the right parts, I'll fix the broken 2mm screw, replace/install the new latch handle, and send you back the assembly, ready for assembly.

Best,
Evan

PS, go to the website and download the 2nd set of Installation instructions (With CLS)....that way you can remove assembly if you're so inclined...

Last edited by BilletsGalore; May 5th, 2009 at 7:09 pm.
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post #16 of 19 Old May 5th, 2009, 8:54 pm
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Evan,

My piece looks just like the photos in the first post of this thread. Maybe that is why the saddlebags lock normally with the key fob and the trunk never locks?

Rolling Thunder is May 22-26. I will disassemble the trunk latch and mail the parts to you after Memorial Day weekend if that works for you. I am in no hurry and please don't feel rushed.

I will download the directions and start "planning" the disassembly.

Thanks bunches for offering to fix the broken piece and reassemble. I am not anywhere near a NASA rocket scientist. I have always believed in the "bigger hammer" theory, only it doesn't seem to work in this case.

Glenn
[email protected]
2005 K1200LT with CLS and Black trunk latch.

Glenn
Virginia Beach VA and Washington DC

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post #17 of 19 Old May 6th, 2009, 8:22 pm Thread Starter
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Re: New trunk latch woes

I got the parts back from my machinist today. He used Evan's suggestion of #2-56 thread size and machined a small bushing to keep the correct length. He actually threaded the inside of the bushing as well and locked it in place. Charged me a whole $5 !!!
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post #18 of 19 Old May 7th, 2009, 11:34 am
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Quote:
Originally Posted by c00k1e
I would like to meet whatever BMW guy invented that latch - what was he on?

.
Yeah..that, the rear drive assy, the speedo, the transmission seal leakage problem into the clutch, poor headlights, crappy seat, ...and the beat goes on. They were all dropping acid at BMW would be my guess.

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post #19 of 19 Old May 7th, 2009, 11:34 am
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Re: New trunk latch woes

Quote:
Originally Posted by RealWing
I got the parts back from my machinist today. He used Evan's suggestion of #2-56 thread size and machined a small bushing to keep the correct length. He actually threaded the inside of the bushing as well and locked it in place. Charged me a whole $5 !!!
Nice work! I'll send the broken ones to your friend! Just kidding....nice work, you're good to go!
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