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rear drive oil change -

3K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  csm746 
#1 ·
well I've done rear drive oil change a couple of time already but this time something wierd is going on. Drained it and add 8oz...or should I say tried to add 8 oz. The oil started comeing out ot the fill hole around 7 oz. - I'm confused to say the least, anyone have any idea what's going on?

Thanks,
Bob
 
#2 ·
Did you turn the rear wheel by hand to let the fluid in?
 
#3 ·
Nope- naver had to before but I'll head out there and try that....I feel pretty stupid now :eek: thanks for the quick reply.

zippy_gg said:
Did you turn the rear wheel by hand to let the fluid in?
 
#5 ·
Geez, maybe I missed yet another aspect of the FD change. I have never turned the wheel, and at least do not recall having seen that on the PS service DVD. I just filled it until the oil was at the bottom of the threads on the fill hole.

Do I need to recheck the level?

I just do not have enough muscle to get the bike on the center stand. It is nearly upright with blocks under the side stand, but I had not heard that it took more oil if you turned the wheel.......?

BTW, I never measured out the oil, just filled it as shown in the DVD.
 
#6 ·
so oil too the bottom of the treads is what I want? still makes me wonder why it overfilled at about 7 oz. :confused:

yechave said:
Geez, maybe I missed yet another aspect of the FD change. I have never turned the wheel, and at least do not recall having seen that on the PS service DVD. I just filled it until the oil was at the bottom of the threads on the fill hole.

Do I need to recheck the level?

I just do not have enough muscle to get the bike on the center stand. It is nearly upright with blocks under the side stand, but I had not heard that it took more oil if you turned the wheel.......?
 
#7 ·
Must still be too hot to measure oil.

Wait till the temps drop into the low 90s, your normal cold winter wx :)

Bob
 
#8 ·
?? :confused: are you "trying" to being a funny guy?

BecketMa said:
Must still be too hot to measure oil.

Wait till the temps drop into the low 90s, your normal cold winter wx :)

Bob
 
#9 ·
240 ml = 8.12 oz approximately. The book calls for 240 ml for refill, 250 (I believe) for the initial fill. You will always have some residual fluid, but almost an oz does seem like quite a bit!

HTH,

John
 
#10 ·
so now that it has overfilled - do I just get the level down to the bottom of the treads?

Thanks,
Bob

AlaskaFish said:
240 ml = 8.12 oz approximately. The book calls for 240 ml for refill, 250 (I believe) for the initial fill. You will always have some residual fluid, but almost an oz does seem like quite a bit!

HTH,

John
 
#11 ·
is there a link on line to the video?

yechave said:
Geez, maybe I missed yet another aspect of the FD change. I have never turned the wheel, and at least do not recall having seen that on the PS service DVD. I just filled it until the oil was at the bottom of the threads on the fill hole.

Do I need to recheck the level?

I just do not have enough muscle to get the bike on the center stand. It is nearly upright with blocks under the side stand, but I had not heard that it took more oil if you turned the wheel.......?

BTW, I never measured out the oil, just filled it as shown in the DVD.
 
#12 ·
TBob said:
so now that it has overfilled - do I just get the level down to the bottom of the treads?

Thanks,
Bob
Yes - the bottom of the threads when on the center stand. In reality, it is not all that critical since the oil litterly flies around inside the housing when you are riding - so everything will definitely be well lubricated.
 
#13 ·
Never mind the volume measurement. There will be some residual oil in the drive. Just add enough oil to bring the level up to the bottom of the threads of the filler hole.
If you get an air bubble, spinning the wheel will break the bubble but the bubble will usually clear itself with just a little wait.
IF YOU SPIN the wheel alot, the crownwheel gear will carry oil up and it will drain down slowly. This will give you time to add more resulting in an overfilled drive. An overfilled drive won't cause a great deal of trouble, not like a severely overfilled engine crankcase, but you will get oil coming out of the breather and perhaps leaking past the seals.
 
#15 ·
Me?
Kid about HOT WX?!

When I brought my new bike in for the 600-800 check and fluid change, I pointed out a leak. Turns out it was just from a little too much oil vented from the rear end.

If you are concerned, fill it to the bottom of the threads, plug her up, take her for a ride, let her settle over night, and check the level again.

Enjoy our fantastic Fall wx when the temps drop below 90 again.

I've been looking at a run into the White Mountains; day trip to Tombstone

bob
 
#16 ·
If slightly overfull, get an inexpensive plastic syringe and take some out. No drips.

After my second time around doing this, I finally bought a clear plastic ketchup bottle (like the kind they have at old style burger joints) at Walmart for the FD fill, so I don't need to play around with a funnel and plastic tubing.

I had too many miles on the LT to consider switching to synth on any part of the LT. I so dread paying $9+/qt for dino BMW engine oil. Too risky to change now, so I am told. Can't afford ANY serious mechanical issues due to seal leaks at this point.

Myself, and most likely quite a few other members, will be in envy of living in your neck of the woods in a few short weeks........... :cool:
 
#17 ·
what is wx?

BecketMa said:
Me?
Kid about HOT WX?!

When I brought my new bike in for the 600-800 check and fluid change, I pointed out a leak. Turns out it was just from a little too much oil vented from the rear end.

If you are concerned, fill it to the bottom of the threads, plug her up, take her for a ride, let her settle over night, and check the level again.

Enjoy our fantastic Fall wx when the temps drop below 90 again.

I've been looking at a run into the White Mountains; day trip to Tombstone

bob
 
#18 ·
#19 ·
CharlieVT said:
Buy, borrow, or rent.
No, please don't rent this DVD. The rentals are being done without Paul's permission. We contacted the rental company a while back and Paul told them he did not agree to their for-profit use of his hard work and labor. Basically they told him tough, they could do whatever they wanted and didn't have to have his permission or need to compensate him in any way. Kind of a sucky way to run a business, stealing the hard work of others for your own profit, especially after speaking directly to the guy who did all the work.

Paul's Service DVD for the BMW K1200LT is an excellent investment for anyone who wants to do their own LT maintenance, or for anyone who just wants to understand what the dealer is doing to their bike. And with the cost only being about an hour's dealer service rates, it's hard to go wrong.
 
#20 ·
meese said:
No, please don't rent this DVD. The rentals are being done without Paul's permission. We contacted the rental company a while back and Paul told them he did not agree to their for-profit use of his hard work and labor. Basically they told him tough, they could do whatever they wanted and didn't have to have his permission or need to compensate him in any way. Kind of a sucky way to run a business, stealing the hard work of others for your own profit, especially after speaking directly to the guy who did all the work.
Well, I'm not a lawyer, but that certainly appears to be contrary to what little I do know about copyright law and what is posted at places like this:

http://www.templetons.com/brad/copymyths.html

Maybe Paul should pay a lawyer a few bucks to send a letter on his behalf.
 
#22 ·
My two cents worth:

In my 1999 K1200LT (and my 2003 R1150R) I use Castrol GTX 20W50 motor oil in the engine. Some old timey BMW mechanics clued me in on this and I have had no problems in over 30K.

For the last tranny, rear end change I used 80-90 weight full synthetic Royal Purple and I swear I could tell an immediate difference in shifting smoothness even though I had been using another brand of synthetic.

7 oz or 8 oz, just fill to bottom of threads while on the SIDESTAND (check your book) and the rear end will be happy. Overfill and you will get the excess out the vent.
 
#23 ·
Voyager said:
Maybe Paul should pay a lawyer a few bucks to send a letter on his behalf.
The renting guy actually came on this site, acting all polite while defending his position. When many of us, Paul included, said we just didn't think what he was doing was right (whether or not it might have been legal) he simply told us that he didn't really care and would continue on.

This isn't a big money maker for Paul, and it was never intended to be. It was simply a fellow rider helping out other riders and covering some of his costs. So going the lawyer route would most likely have no effect except for costing Paul some cash.

I think that's how these guys operate. Make a few quick bucks where you can, and know that in most cases it really isn't worth the hassle or expense to chase them down. Same with all those eBay scams and copies of legitimate copyrighted info. You can copy a CD or DVD for under a buck, then sell them all day long for $5-$10, plus inflated shipping and handling, and then just sit back and collect the cash.

And all we can really do about it is not patronize them, but unfortunately, there are plenty of folks who will.
 
#24 ·
I drain my FD oil into clear mason jars and let them set so I can see if any metal drops to the bottom after a few weeks. I just checked my last two samples and they were at 8 ounces right on the line. I do fill on the center stand only to the bottom of first thread.
 
#25 ·
I have always had my rear drive oil analyzed by Wear Check International to look for early signs of problems. You should see some increasing wear in the analysis before you start seeing any visible metal bits. So far so good at 20,000 miles!!

Latest results attached for info.
 

Attachments

#26 ·
BobfromSWOhio said:
My two cents worth:

In my 1999 K1200LT (and my 2003 R1150R) I use Castrol GTX 20W50 motor oil in the engine. Some old timey BMW mechanics clued me in on this and I have had no problems in over 30K.

For the last tranny, rear end change I used 80-90 weight full synthetic Royal Purple and I swear I could tell an immediate difference in shifting smoothness even though I had been using another brand of synthetic.

7 oz or 8 oz, just fill to bottom of threads while on the SIDESTAND (check your book) and the rear end will be happy. Overfill and you will get the excess out the vent.

I had a similar experience with 80W90 synthetic. In my K-Bike xmsn I ran
75W90 synthetic for a while and when ambient temperatures were high and after a distance ride, the xmsn would shift harder. I did not experience that with the 80W90. I went to 75W140 for a while as well and found that OK in the heat. Finally settled on Amsoil 75W110 Severe Duty and it seems just right. I now have a 2009RT and will fill with Amsoil as soon as I build 600 miles on the odometer.....
 
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