Quote:
Originally Posted by jpspen
Do the drill mod on the housing and if it does fail it won't screw the clutch..
You drill a hole in the base of the housing that the slave cylinder fits in to .
So if the slave fails the fluid leaks out instead of getting past the seal to the clutch disk..
Someone can point you to the link with instructions... I am going to hopefully do mine when I get it apart this winter...
But today in OKC it's supposed to be 75 degrees and I's gonna ride...
Good Luck
John
I performed this mod in conjunction with clutch and rear main seal and much more.
Excellent advice. The procedure is straight forward, The shop manual will walk you right through it. You basically have to remove the following, Remember just a overview, Remove the following.
1) Tupperware
2) rear wheel
3) final drive
4) exhaust
5) para lever
6) drive shaft
7) frame cross member and shift linkage
Now you have full access to the clutch slave cylinder, Remove the 3 hex head screws and immediately slide cylinder out. Note the presence or absence of DOT 4. Hopefully its dry, Pull out the clutch push rod and look for motor oil, trans oil or clutch fluid. If the motor rear main seal or trans input shaft seal is leaking you may be able to tell. If all is clear then you only have to change the clutch slave. If the clutch push rod felt sleeve is wet you need to identify the source. Chances are if the felt sleeve if contaminated the culprit is clutch fluid. If contaminated with DOT 4, Clean the felt with contact cleaner on the push rod. Chances are if the clutch is not slipping and the slave is leaking you dodged a bullet.
Last bit of advice , Make sure you have a new slave gasket and banjo washers. In order to drill the relief hole in the trans next to the case you need a extra long drill bit. In the pictures of my job I was about 3/4" away from the case at 6 o'clock.
Enjoy!